Ornamental Grasses – The Single Maintenance Per Year Plant!

Ornamental grasses are a great addition to any landscape.  They are easy to grow.  They are tolerant of most soils.  Once they are established, they don’t require much water.   And, they rarely have insect or disease issues. 

Best of all - they require little maintenance. 

They need trimming only one time per year. 

The rest of the season they need little to no attention.

What is an ornamental grass? 

Most commonly they come in two forms:  medium to tall grasses and groundcovers. 

Groundcovers include Liriope and Mondo Grass.  They are often used as boarders or in mass plantings. Liriope makes a great groundcover in turf areas that are even too shady for fescue.   

Taller grasses can be used as focal point or in mass plantings.  

Ornamental grasses provide texture, color, height, and flower plumes.  They also add interest in the winter as their blades sway in the breeze. 

A few of the more frequently used grasses include Fountain Grass (including the popular Hameln), Japanese Blood Grass, Liriope, Maiden Grass, Mondo Grass, Plume Grass, Mexican Feather Grass, Muhly, and Sweet Flag.

Liriope, commonly know as Monkey Grass, makes a good ground cover. There are several varieties. Purple Explosion produces deep purple spikes in the late summer.

Pink Muhly Grass produces pinkish-purple lacy plumes in the fall.

Liriope is a great solution for areas that are too shady to grow a thick lawn. 

When do ornamental grasses need their once per year trim? 

Anytime now through early March.  The goal is to remove all the dormant top before new shoots start to develop.  If you make a cut on new shoots, the tip will keep a bruised look all season.

I prefer to wait until late winter to cut back ornamental grasses. They add interest to the winter landscape as they sway in the wind.  

Ornamental grasses need to have their dormant foliage removed before new shoots emerge this spring.

Cutting back your ornamental grasses in late winter can be a big task. But, you only have to work on the one time per year. Grasses are nearly maintenance free the rest of the year.  

Tying up the foliage first will make the job and clean-up go quicker.

Liriope and Mondo Grasses typically have freeze burnt leaf blades from winter cold spells and need to be trimmed sometime between now and mid-March.

What height does ornamental grass need to be cut? 

For pampas grasses, remove the dormant foliage to a height of approximately 12”. 

For liriope, trim to a height of 2-3”. 

Mondo Grass, particularly Dwarf Mondo, only needs a once per year trim if most of the foliage has browned.  Most springs you can use hand pruners to clip out what little brown foliage there is on dwarf mondo. 

Another exception to the once per year trim is Mexican Feather Grass.  This ornamental grass performs best if it isn’t trimmed at all.  As the grass matures, small areas will turn brown.  Gently pull the brown areas out anytime they appear. 

Mexican Feather Grass is the one exception to cutting them down in the spring. Instead, remove any brown clumps from the grass during the growing season by gently pulling them out.

What are the best tools for the project? 

For pampas grasses, use either hand hedge shears or power hedge trimmers depending on how thick the grass clumps have become.  To make the job easier, use twine to tie up the foliage before you make your cuts.  

For liriope, you can use your string trimmer, or if the area is large enough, go ahead and use the mower on the highest setting. 

Mexican Feather Grass prefers not to be cut back in the spring.  

Grouping of Mexican Feather Grass planted with Pink Muhly Grass. 

Should I divide my grasses? 

It is not uncommon for pampas grasses to die out in the center of the clump as the grass matures and grows.  Every 3-5 years it is a good idea to divide grasses in the spring.  Using a sharp shovel, simply slice through the grass.  Then replant the clump. 

Liriope can easily be transplanted after it is cut back.  Use a shovel or even a post-hole digger to dig clumps.  Liriope can be invasive.  Therefore, I find I need to dig up liriope that has spread beyond the intended area occasionally.

Dividing and replanting grasses is an inexpensive way to expand your landscape. 

Liriope, also known as Monkey Grass, should have the brown tops removed before new shoots emerge in mid-March.

When you pull back the brown tops of your liriope you will see the plants are still green. Sometime in the next 4 weeks use your string trimmer or mower to remove the brown tops.

When is the best time to plant new ornamental grasses? 

Ornamental grasses can be planted year-round in our region.  The ideal time is spring or fall.  Summer is also good, but they will require more watering until established.

A couple of good information sources for ornamental grasses:

https://www.monrovia.com/shop/by-type/grasses.html

Have more questions about ornamental grasses?  Give us a call.  (405)367-3873.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

A great combination of plants for winter interest is Reg Twig Dogwood and Ornamental Grasses.

February – Will It Deliver An Early Spring or More Winter?

February can go either way. 

Sometimes February feels like winter is never going to end.  Yet, other times February feels like spring with bulbs, shrubs, and trees bursting with color. 

After a cold January, temperatures were below normal 21 of 31 days, February is off to a spring-like start. 

I don’t know about you, but I needed this week with abundant sunshine and above normal temperatures. 

Cold or spring-like, either way, the first of February means we are getting closer to the browns of winter being replaced with the colors of spring!

If we receive a snow this February, take time to find to notice the stark red branches of the Red Twig Dogwood against pure white snow.

With springtime a month away, it is time to shake off your winter break from lawn and landscape activities and get focused on setting up your lawn and landscape for a successful year.  

If you handled some of these tasks on one of the few nice days in January, you are ahead.  But, if not, we are down to a few weeks to get your lawn and landscape ready for the next lawn and landscape season.   

Weed Control – In early January, as weather allowed, we began applying the very important first step of our lawn care program to many of your lawns.  For the best lawn this year, it is critical you have a pre-emergent herbicide applied to your turf to prevent spring and summer weeds before early March.  Many summer weeds germinate when soil temperatures reach 55 degrees, which typically occurs sometime during the first two weeks of March in central Oklahoma.  Soil temperatures are currently in the low 40’s but will reach the critical weed germination point within the next 30-40 days.  Along with applying the first pre-emergent of the year, now is the perfect time to be more aggressive in controlling existing weeds in Bermuda lawns.  If you have a fescue lawn, now is also a good time for pre and post-emergent weed control, but you must read the label and ensure it is safe for fescue before applying.  Never assume that an herbicide is okay on any turf type.

Key Point:  For the best lawn this year your lawn needs a pre-emergent application before soil temperatures reach 55 degrees in early March.

Because crabgrass is fast growing and spreads quickly, it can have a dominant presence in your lawn by May without a spring pre-emergent.

Dormant Oil – Many insects, such as scale, aphids, mites and leaf hoppers, overwinter on trees and shrubs.  Spray with a dormant oil when the temperature is above 40 degrees before the end of the month (before bud break), and you will have less insect issues on your trees and shrubs during the season.  Dormant oil can also reduce some fungal pathogens.  Caution – do not use dormant oils on needle evergreens (juniper, cedar, cypress, etc.). 

Key Point:  Dormant oils will reduce, and possibly eliminate, some insects.

Over the past few seasons Crape Myrtles have been problems with white scale. The first step in gaining control of the insect is a dormant oil treatment. 

The best time to control and prevent weeds is before warm season lawns come out of dormancy.

An application of a dormant oil this month will smother overwintering insects such as aphids.

Assuming February brings us a gradual warm up we are only 30 days away from daffodil blossoms. 

Watering – With over 2 ¼” of rainfall in the last 30 days soil moisture is really good for this time of year.  Most landscapes do not need any additional moisture at this time.  Continue to monitor rainfall and be prepared to water if needed.   If we go 7-10 days without moisture, pick a nice day and give your lawn and landscape a deep soaking.   

Key Point:  Winter plant damage is more likely to occur when plant roots are dry during an extended cold period.

It is a good practice to wrap the trunks of young Maple trees to prevent trunk damage in February and March. Commonly known as southwest injury, it is caused by sap rising on warm days followed by freezing temperatures at night resulting in damage to the bark.

Fescue lawns will return to a rich dark green sometime between the last week of February and the last week of March when soil temperatures and moisture are just right.

Fescue – With a run of over 100 consecutive hours below freezing and a low below zero in January, fescue lawns lost the color they carried through the holidays and are now a freeze-burn, brown color. If there only been just a couple of inches of snow to go with the cold temperatures, fescue would have lost some color but would have maintained an overall green hue. 

One of the most frequent calls we received this week started with “My fescue isn’t looking very good.”   

We could be only three weeks away from seeing spring color!

What can you expect from your fescue in February?  It all depends upon temperatures and moisture. Every year there is a turning point when temperatures rise, there is abundant moisture and almost overnight, fescue lawns regain their rich green color.  A full recovery can happen as early as mid-February or as late as mid-March. 

Key Point:  Hold your judgment on the condition of your fescue lawn for another 4-6 weeks.

Soil Test – If your lawn did not respond as expected to fertilizer last year, you may have a soil problem.  It is a good idea to have your soil tested every three to four years to ensure the soil will continue to yield a healthy landscape. A soil analysis will provide you with the pH and levels of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.  A pH range of 6.0 to 7.5 is acceptable for most plants.

Using a spade take 10-12 samples of soil from the top 6”.  It is best to test turf soil and landscape planting soil separately.  Mix in a bucket and remove roots and debris.  Place about 2 cups of soil in a plastic zip lock bag. Take the sample to your locale Oklahoma County Extension Center. 

The Oklahoma County’s center is located 2500 NE 63rd St, Oklahoma City, OK 73111.  For a nominal fee they will have the soil tested and send you the results along with recommendations in approximately two weeks.

Or, if you would like us to handle this for you, respond to this email or call (405)367-3873.  We will gather a sample, deliver it to the lab, call you to discuss the findings, and prescribe a soil amendment plan if needed. 

Key Point:  For the best lawn and landscape, have your soil tested every two to three years.

One of the first announcements of spring comes from the bright golden yellow of the forsythia. When will it declare spring this year?  Before the end of February?  Or March?

Last year, forsythia started blooming on February 25.

Tree Pruning – Continue to work on tree pruning with the goal of completing maintenance and restorative pruning before trees’ leaf in March. 

For more information on tree pruning, follow this link to our December 2023 Tree Pruning article: https://www.hallstewart.com/hsblog/2020/12/6/this-winter-more-than-ever-your-trees-need-some-attention?rq=tree

If you planted daffodil bulbs in November or December, this is less than 30 days away!

Lawn Maintenance – Continue to keep leaves and debris removed from the landscape.  Later this month or early in March, cut the lawn for the first time.  It is not necessary to scalp the lawn all the way to the soil.  We recommend cutting the lawn at or just below the height you desire to maintain it at during the spring and early summer. 

Lawn Equipment – If you mow your own lawn, February is a perfect time to get your mower ready for the new season.  I am a firm believer in having your lawn mower professionally serviced every winter. Not only will you have less mower headaches during the season, you also can expect a longer mower life.  Most shops offer a winter tune-up special where they put in a new spark plug, change the oil and filter, replace the air filter if needed, put in fresh fuel with stabilizer, and sharpen the blade. 

Odds are there will be a little more winter yet to come, so enjoy the spring-like days February is delivering right now.

We can’t wait to get to spring with “trees of green, red roses too.” 

Continue to take advantage of every pretty day you can to get your lawn and landscape ready for a wonderful 2024!

If you need help with any of these tasks or have questions, please give us a call.

Lorne Hall

 Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Dallisgrass – The “Address It As Soon As You See It” Weed

VIEWER DISCRETION ADVISED: 

This email may not be suitable for all lawn and landscape lovers.

WARNING:  This week’s post does not contain any pretty lawn and landscape pictures.  Only ugly pictures of dallisgrass infestations.  If you only click on our emails for inspiring pictures, please do not continue.  We promise to return to normal content next week. 

Often the content of our weekly emails is the result of what we are seeing in lawns and landscapes.  This time of year, while doing lawn evaluations for soon to be Hall | Stewart clients, it is common to encounter lawns with dallisgrass issues.

Let’s spend a few minutes learning about this invasive weed and learn why it is so important to “address it as soon as you see it.”

Dallisgrass is a perennial grassy weed that was introduced to the US from Uruguay and Argentina in the 1800’s by A.T. Dallis as a fast-growing forage plant.  Unfortunately, dallisgrass liked the environment a little too well and soon was growing out of control. 

Dallisgrass is a grassy perennial weed that is very noticeable this time of year in dormant bermuda lawns.

How fun would it be to bring to market a plant that is beneficial for generations to come and have it named after you!   Poor A.T., he thought he was helping, but instead of a plant people love named after him, he has a weed with his name that is the catalyst for a lot of foul language.

Dallisgrass is often confused with crabgrass. Crabgrass is an annual, meaning it dies every winter and can be completely prevented with a pre-emergent. While dallisgrass is a perennial, a pre-emergent will prevent the spread of new clumps but repeated post-emergent grassy weed control is required to eradicate existing clumps.

What is Dallisgrass?

Dallisgrass is a coarse textured perennial that grows in an ever-enlarging circular clump and is often confused with crabgrass.  

A perennial is a plant that comes back year after year.  Dallisgrass goes dormant during the winter, but the rhizomes do not die.  In the spring, new growth appears from the roots.

Dallisgrass has short underground rhizomes that gradually grow outward.  It has wide ¼ to ½” leaf blades that grow 4-12” long when not mowed.   

Mature clumps typically have dying centers while the outer edge continues to grow smothering turfgrass as it spreads.

Individual plants increase in size while new clumps start from weed seeds.   

Dallisgrass flourishes in all soils, sandy to clay, but is partial to compacted, wet soils. 

Dallisgrass is a very common problem for lawns throughout the south from coast to coast.

How To Control Dallisgrass

1.     Healthy Turf - As with all weeds, maintaining a healthy, dense turf is the first step.  Good mowing, watering, fertilizing and aeration practices result in a thick turf leaving less area for dallisgrass seeds to come in contract with and germinate.  Thin turf and bare soil areas are an invitation to all weeds, especially dallisgrass.

2.     Pre-Emergent Applications – Although dallisgrass is a perennial, it does produce an abundance of seeds that are spread by wind, animals and lawn equipment.  Pre-emergent applications will not control existing dallisgrass, but it will prevent it from allowing more clumps to develop in your lawn. Seeds germinate in 60-65 degree soil temperatures, a few weeks after crabgrass germinates. 

The second spring pre-emergent application between mid-March to early May is critical in stopping the spread of dallisgrass.

Dallisgrass goes dormant in the winter but the rhizomes stay alive and often keep some green color near the soil surface.

Dallisgrass grows outward smothering turfgrass as it spreads. Over time the center of the weed dies out while the rhizomes continue to spread.

3. Selective Post-Emergent Applications – Grassy weed control products labeled for crabgrass will work on dallisgrass, but repeat applications are required every 2-3 weeks until the rhizomes are completely dead.  MSMA was the go-to product for years, but it is no longer available for home lawn use.  One product labelled for homeowner use is Weed-B-Gone Crabgrass Killer.  Always follow label instructions.  Know your type of turf, and make sure the product is labeled for your turf type.  Licensed lawn care professionals have restricted use herbicides available to use that provide better control of dallisgrass.   

This lawn was overtaken with dallisgrass when we started working on it last spring. The owner agreed to allowing us to use glyphosate early in the growing season to aggressively control dallisgrass resulting large bare areas. Over the summer, most of the areas recovered.  But another year of good turf management practices and this lawn is needed to return the lawn to looking great. Control of dallisgrass and recovery is often a two year process.

4, Non-Selective Post-Emergent Application – The best control of large areas of dallisgrass infestations where there is little to no desirable turfgrass remaining is to treat with glyphosate.  Glyphosate is a non-selective herbicide, meaning it kills everything it comes in contact with.  Repeated applications are still required.  If spot treating clumps of dallisgrass in your lawn, take care not to allow the spray to reach desirable turf.  Once the weed is completely killed, rhizomes included, resodding may be required. 

5. Digging It Out – The most environmentally friendly, but the most time consuming and physically demanding, is to dig out the invasive weeds.  A good step in preventing a dallisgrass outbreak is to dig out small clumps, rhizomes and all, as soon as you see them in your lawn.

Large areas of dallisgrass where little to now desirable turfgrass remains are best completely killed out with a non-selective herbicide and then resodded.

Non-selective herbicides were used in June to control dallisgrass in this lawn. After the dallisgrass was completely controlled, the areas were sodded with Bermuda. 

Dallisgrass grows faster than turfgrass spoiling a well maintained lawn and landscape.

Because dallisgrass is a perennial, persistence is required.  Total eradication of a large area may take more than one season.  Multiple treatments over a two-year period can be expected.

It is one of the more difficult to control weeds homeowners will face and the longer it has been established the harder it is to gain control. 

Address dallisgrass as soon as you see it.  The longer you wait the more invasive it will become.

If you have dallisgrass problems, or if you need help in identifying dallisgrass, please give us a call or respond to this email.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

The goal is to have a clean and healthy lawn this summer. It is critical you address dallisgrass as soon as you see it.

Japanese Maples – Year Round Interest

With over 140 hours of the past 7 days below freezing with very little snow cover, our lawns and landscapes look as if they have been left uncovered in the deep freeze and are now suffering from a bad case of freezer burn.

After a long cold week of long johns, heavy coats and gloves, I doubt you are looking for a list of lawn and landscape tasks to accomplish over the next few days.

So, go ahead, pour yourself another cup of coffee, grab a blanket, and head to your comfy chair closest to the fireplace and spend a few minutes dreaming about beautiful landscapes.

Specifically, let’s dream of Japanese Maples – The Aristocrat of the Landscape

Japanese Maples are sure to add bright colors to your fall landscape.

Michael Dirr, author of the Dirr’s Hardy Trees and Shrubs textbook, writes: 

“True aristocrats are rare among people and trees, but Japanese Maple is in the first order. 

It is difficult to imagine a garden that could not benefit from one of the many forms of Acer palmatum.

The normal habit is round to broad-rounded, with the branches assuming a layered,

almost stratified architecture similar to Flowering Dogwood. 

Leaves are light green to dark green, to reddish purple. 

Fall color is sensational with rich yellow and reds through the fall. 

The winter silhouette is attractive, providing interest during the off season. 

Landscape uses for the species and its many cultivars are limited only by

the imagination of the gardener.”

Japanese Maples have added spectacular color to the fall landscape this year. Garnet is a graceful small variety with lacy leaves and a weeping growth habit.

A few things everyone needs to know about Japanese Maples:

Site

Japanese Maples grow well from zone 5-8, making them a good choice for Oklahoma City’s zone 7.  They perform best when planted in dappled sun to shade and out of direct afternoon sun.  Shade does have its limits…they need some sun for the best fall foliage color.  During the summer heat, it is common for them to experience some leaf scorch, especially if they receive direct sun.  They prefer well-drained soil and consistent moisture.  During the heat of the year, you can expect them to need extra deep watering the first couple of seasons. But once they are established, they are essentially carefree. 

Monrovia, a leader in the development and growing of landscape plants, refers to “Japanese Maples a statement plant…one of the most compelling plants you can add to your landscape.”

With over 1,000 varieties and cultivars of the Japanese Maples, there has to be one perfect for your landscape.

Tamukeyama Japanese Maple has deep red-purple leaves through the summer and bright red fall foliage. With cascading branches it grows in a mounding shape 10’ fall and 10’ wide.

Coral Bark Japanese Maples have pale green leaves in the summer, Golden yellow fall color, and bright red-coral branches in the winter.

Coral Bark Japanese Maple

Japanese Maples are a staple landscape plant that will add interest to a landscape year round.

A mature Japanese Maple, such as this Bloodgood, will grow in full sun locations where the soil is shaded.

Size & Form

Japanese Maples range from a few feet tall to 25’.  Considered a deciduous small tree or shrub, there are rounded, dwarf, weeping, upright, cascading, single trunk, multi-trunk…. varieties. 

How can you use a Japanese Maple in your landscape? 

You can create a solitary specimen as a spotlight in the landscape.

You can plant them in a group as a grove.  

Or, you can use them in large containers.

Leaves from a Bloodgood Japanese Maple cover the ground with a red carpet as they drop from the tree.

Leaf Shape

Japanese Maple foliage is divided into two types: traditional maple type, 2-5” wide palm-shaped with 5-7 lobes, or delicate and lacy. 

Japanese Maples varieties will have either traditional maple shaped leaves or delicate and lacy leaves like this weeping variety.

Green and red Japanese Maples planted in a group to create a grove.

Bloodgood Japanese Maples make a bold statement in April when their leaves emerge a brilliant red.

Leaf Color

Japanese Maples are among the most wide-range, colorful trees.  The foliage ranges from red, green, orange, deep red-purple and bright red-pink depending on the time of year.  Some leaf out brilliant reds in the spring, change to green in the summer, and finish the year in bright reds, yellows and oranges.  Other varieties start red in the spring, keep a red cast all summer keeping the red color through fall. 

Monrovia’s website is a great place to explore Japanese Maples.

Fun Fact – Fried maple leaves are a very popular snack in Japan.  The city of Minoh is famous for their fired maple leaves.  The leaves are dipped and fried in tempura batter.   

How To Plant A Japanese Maple

1. Dig a hole twice as wide as the tree container and a few inches deeper.

2. Backfill the bottom of the hole with a mixture of the soil from the site and a compost material (Back to Nature or Landscape Grower’s Mix are a couple of favorites).  Tamp firmly the soil in the bottom of the hole.

3. Place the tree in the hole with the top of the root ball approximately 2” higher than the surrounding grade.

4. Back fill halfway with your soil and compost mixture.

5. Lightly tamp down the soil and water well.

6. Finish filling around the tree.

7. Mulch with a 2” layer of a Grade A Cedar Mulch and water well.

Japanese Maples are a great staple plant for every landscape. If you don’t have one, you should consider adding a Japanese Maple to your landscape this year.   

Oh, you have one?  Don’t you think you should add another?

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Winter & Your Landscape

It’s January and the local weather forecasters are warning us about winter weather approaching in the days to come.

What does winter weather mean for your lawn and landscape? 

For young trees and trees with thin bark, wrapping the trunk in the winter will protect the tree from damage due to freezing and thawing temperatures.

If you have perennials or winter annuals such as pansies or kale, winter moisture is critical to their performance going into the spring.

Fescue lawns will retain more color in the winter and rebound quicker in the spring if they are not allowed to become bone dry during the winter.

Newly sodded lawns, due to a shallow root system, can experience freeze damage if the roots are dry during a winter cold spell.

Finally, all newer landscapes, those installed in the last two years require a little more watering attention over the winter.

The goal is to make sure the top few inches of soil is moist well ahead of freezing temperatures.  Roots are still active and providing moisture for the plant.  Once the soil freezes, the roots no longer have the ability to replace moisture lost to transpiration. 

Our rule of thumb is to keep your irrigation operational through the winter, monitor the weather, and be ready to water once every 7-14 days if we have not received a good rainfall.

Biggest Winter Issue – Lack of moisture

Lack of adequate soil moisture is often a major cause of winter damage.  All lawns, shrubs, trees, perennials, and annuals need moisture during the winter.  This is particularly true about evergreens.  Remember, your lawn and landscape are dormant, not dead, and moisture is still important.  

Most winter plant injury occurs when we receive a harsh cold spell while plant root systems are dry.

Winter watering is particularly critical for evergreen shrubs and trees.  Windy days zap the moisture stored in their leaves making them sensitive to winter injury when we receive a harsh cold snap when they are dry.

Windy and cold winter temperatures dry needle and evergreen plants foliage. It is important they have moist soil for the days leading up to extreme winter weather.

Shallow-rooted plants, such as azalea and Japanese maple, are also prone to winter injury when they do not receive regular moisture during dormancy.

Newly planted landscapes need additional water in the winter for the first two years until the roots are established in the native soil.

Current Watering Recommendation:

We received ¼” of rain this week.  If we do not receive at least a ½” of rain early this week, give your lawn and landscape a good deep soaking before the next cold front arrives.

First Step in Avoiding Winter Damage – Select plants that are winter hardy in our area.

Plant cold hardiness is based on the USDA Hardiness Zones.  Central Oklahoma is Zone 7A.  Plants with a 7A rating can withstand temperatures of 0 to 5 degrees.  Northern Oklahoma is Zone 6B, -5 to 0 degrees.  And southern Oklahoma is Zone 7B which can survive temperatures of 5 to 10 degrees.

If you live in central Oklahoma and are tempted to experiment with a plant that grows best in Zone 7B, plant it in a protected area that is shielded from dry winter winds.

Also, when selecting plants, look for plants that perform well in our tighter, clay soils.  A 7A plant that grows best in loose soil may live for years when we have mild winters only to fail when we have a winter of extreme temperatures.

When making plant selections, don’t overlook ones that add winter interest such as Nandina with their bright red berries.

The best weather for your plants during extreme temperatures is a snowfall of 2 or more inches.

Snowfall is moisture!

If we get a ½” rainfall, there is a lot of runoff.  But, when the snow melts, it slowly soaks in.  Every single drop benefits the roots of your turf, flowers, shrubs, and trees.  On average, a 4” snow equals nearly a 1/2” rainfall. 

The Old Farmer’s Almanac calls snow a “poor man’s fertilizer.”

Snow is full of nitrogen.  As snow falls it collects nitrogen that is naturally in the air and distributes it evenly over your lawn and landscape.

Best Weather Condition for Extreme Cold – Snow.

Fresh snow is like a warm blanket when temperatures dip into the teens or lower!

Snowfall is nature’s way of insulating your valuable landscape from cold temperatures.  A fresh snow cover of more than 2” is very beneficial to the landscape by trapping soil warmth below the snow. 

Without snow, soil temperatures fluctuate more, dipping deeper during cold spells.  It is common for soil temperatures to be as much as 10 degrees warmer when there is a snow cover. 

Your landscape is thankful for a blanket of snow to trap the warm soil temperatures around its roots and keep the cold windy temperatures at bay.

A Key to Preventing Winter Damage – Healthy Plants.

Rarely does a healthy plant die due to winter injury.  Plants in poor health are the first to die during cold periods. 

Keep your plants healthy during the growing season and they will be better suited for the winter cold.  Inspect often for insects and disease.  Make sure they are receiving the correct nutrients in the correct amounts.  Practice good watering techniques throughout the growing season. 

The healthier your plants, the better they will do in the extreme temperatures of winter.

One More Great Winter Practice – Mulch.

A fresh 2-3” layer of mulch will provide insulation for your plant roots, retain moisture, and moderate soil temperatures.  

As always, let us know if you have any questions or if we can help you have your best lawn and landscape.

And…stay warm…. after all, it is January.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Merry Christmas!

Christmas…the season of hope!

What are you hoping for this Christmas?  The top item on your wish list?  Time with family and friends?  Joy?  Health?

 

Hope is a feeling of expectation and desire for a certain thing to happen.

Everyone is hoping for something.

But, what happens when the thing you are hoping for does not happen? 

The feeling of hope is replaced with a feeling of disappointment.  When the feeling of disappointment lingers it is easy to find ourselves feeling hopeless.  Hopelessness is the feeling of despair about something.

I don’t like the feelings of disappointment.  I really don’t like the feeling of hopelessness.  We have all been there.  Especially when we have placed our hope in finances, relationships, health, and careers…...

But this is Christmas… the celebration of real hope! 

A hope that does not disappoint! 

A hope that erases hopelessness!

Christmas, the celebration of the birth of Christ.

Christmas, the celebration of the birth of hope and love for all mankind.

May your entire holiday season be filled with the true hope and love of Christ!

Merry Christmas from your friends at Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

Small Trees in the Landscape

A few times we have posted an article titled Great Landscapes Have Three Levels. In the article, we mention the use of small trees as one of the ways to create three levels. 

Wintertime, with fewer lawn and landscape maintenance activities dominating your time, is the perfect time to evaluate your landscape.  Let’s spend a few minutes learning about the importance of small trees in the landscape.

Reasons For Using Small Trees

Small trees often are the punctuation points of your landscape.  They are the anchor plants that give the landscape balance. 

Small trees are the stars of the landscape with the rest of the landscape playing a supporting role.

Often, they are the first to be placed in the design and commonly the first to be planted. 

• Small trees add height, color, and texture to the landscape.

• They complement the landscape.

• They direct the eye to key features or views.

• Small trees can frame a house or an entry.

• They can be used to create privacy or screen an undesirable view.

• Small trees give the landscape balance.

Small trees are defined as those that have a mature height of 12-30’. 

Small trees are typically multi-stemmed but can be a single trunk plant as well. 

The list of small trees is long.

Here are a few to consider:

Redbud

Redbud – There are many varieties, but the Oklahoma Redbud stands out as a great landscape specimen with vibrant pink-purple flowers on bare branches in the early spring and glossy heart-shaped leaves during the growing season.  15-20’ tall and wide.

Redbud

Redbud

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Japanese Maple

Japanese Maple

Japanese Maple – A favorite small tree for the north or east side of a house.  There are weeping, upright, and spreading varieties.  Varieties with red leaves, purple leaves, green leaves, and yellow leaves.  Their color and texture create interest in any shady to dappled sun area.  10-25’ high and wide.

Japanese Maple

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Saucer Magnolia

Saucer Magnolia – Large saucer-shaped blooms of white, pink, or purple in the early spring on spreading multi-trunk branches.  20’ tall and 20’ wide.

Saucer Magnolia

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Crape Myrtle

Crape Myrtle – Our longest summer blooming plant with so many colors and growth habits to choose from there has to be one just right for any landscape.  12-30’ tall and 10-20’ wide.

Crape Myrtle

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Dogwood

Dogwood – White or pink blooms in the late spring. Great for areas protected from the afternoon sun or as an understory accent tree.  15’-20’ tall and wide.

Dogwood

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Rose of Sharon

Rose of Sharon – A graceful vase-shaped small tree that adds a tropical look to the landscape.  A mid-summer to fall bloomer available in shades of white, red, pink, lavender, and blue.  15’ tall and 10’ wide.

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Chaste Tree

Chaste Tree – Also known as Vitex, has summer lilac-colored blooms with grayish-green foliage on a broad, spreading multi-trunk frame.  15-20’ tall and wide.

Chaste Tree

Chaste Tree

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Smoke Tree

Smoke Tree - Varieties of purple or yellow foliage with airy smoke-like plumes in the summer.  15’ tall and 10’ wide.

Smoke Tree

Smoke Tree

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Taylor Juniper

Taylor Juniper - Narrow columnar evergreen with bluish-green foliage creating a formal elegant look.  Also, can be used to create screening or privacy.  25-30’ tall and only 3’ wide.

Taylor Juniper

Taylor Juniper

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These are only a few small trees to consider.  The list could go on and on.  

How have you used small trees in your landscape?

What small trees do you have in your landscape?

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Winter Tree Pruning – Improve Your Landscape Investment

Tree pruning is possibly the most important winter landscape activity.

Proper tree pruning during the early years of a tree is an essential practice for any landscape.

Mature neighborhoods are full of examples of trees that were properly trimmed resulting in assets to the landscape.  In the same neighborhoods, some trees were left untouched leaving to chance if they would add value to the landscape someday.  And other trees were improperly pruned destroying their appeal.   

Trees are too large of an investment to leave their growth to chance.

Another reason for tree trimming is to correct storm damage.  If you live in Oklahoma, it is likely you have had or will have to deal with tree damage due to wind or ice. 

Let’s first cover maintenance pruning of younger trees, then tree trimming techniques, and finally we will tackle restorative pruning concepts to continue to return your trees to their former beauty after they experience storm damage.   

Here are a few things to consider when pruning young trees:

• Spend a few minutes studying the shape of the tree before making any cuts.  Have a plan of what needs to be accomplished before making your first cut.

• Avoid pruning the central leader. If there is competition for the central leader, select the best leader and reduce the size of the competing leaders.  When dual central leaders are allowed to grow, there will be two negative outcomes: the tree will not grow as tall and have more of a rounded top, and the tree will develop a weak top more suspectable to storm damage.

Young trees if not properly trimmed will add little value to the landscape as they mature.

• Prune branches around the perimeter that extend beyond the desired shape.  If it is a species with a central leader, prune the tree to a gentle pyramid shape.  If it is an oval-topped tree, prune any branches that are out of proportion.  If the tree is in a location where southern winds are impacting the shape, reduce the north side of the tree.

• Gradually remove lower branches over the years.  As a tree begins to reach maturity, it is best to be able to walk under the branches with your arm fully extended without touching branches. 

• Remove branches that are too close together on the trunk.  My rule of thumb is for there to be a minimum of one to two hand widths between all branches. 

• Remove vigorous vertical branches.  Known as waterspouts, these branches grow quickly and are weakly wooded.  If not removed, they are the first to go during wind and ice storms.

• Remove downward-growing branches.

• Remove any branches that are larger than the trunk.  If not, weak branching will be the outcome.

• Remove crossing or rubbing branches.

• Remove branches that are growing into the center of the tree.

• Never remove more than 1/3 of the branching system in a single year.  If major pruning is needed to correct a tree, do it over a few years.

A folding hand saw is a great tool for tree pruning.

A good tree cut is located at the branch collar, smooth and straight.

Tree trimming techniques:

• When pruning a branch back to the trunk, prune close to the branch collar. 

• When removing branches over 2” in width use a three-cut method.  Make the first cut 18” above the collar on the underneath side of the limb.  Make the second cut on the top side of the first cut.  Then remove the remaining stub at the branch collar.

• When branch pruning (vs not removing the branch completely at the trunk) make your cut ¼” above a bud.  Select a bud facing the direction you want the branch to grow and make the cut on a diagonal. 

• Should you use tree wound dressing?  There is good research for both using dressing on cuts and not using a wound dressing.  Our experience is tree wounds heal quicker without a dressing, so we tend not to use a dressing.

Most routine tree pruning and minor restorative pruning can be accomplished with these 4 tools.

Lower branches on this Chinese Pistache will be pruned this winter. Goal is to be able to walk around under mature trees and not be able to touch any branches with an outstretched hand.

Good tree pruning removes lower branches in proportion to the size of the tree to avoid lollipop shaped trees.

Before

After

Lower branches were removed. Shape was improved by removing overgrown perimeter branching.

Restorative Tree Pruning:

• Walk around the tree from a distance.  There is a good chance that the tree canopy will need more shaping this year.  If the canopy of the tree is out of balance, make a plan to thin the tree on the heavy side.    

• Before making any cuts, determine the direction you want the branch to grow.  If you need to fill in the middle of the tree, select growth toward the center of the tree.  If you need to develop outward growth, select a branch growing outward.

Our Chinese Pistache one year after heavy ice storm damage destroyed the oval canopy.  Restoration is a multi-year process when a tree is heavily damaged.

• At the point of most restorative cuts, it is best if only one or two branches remain.  If selecting more than one, they need to be at least one hand width apart.   

• For trees that lost a large portion of their canopy two years ago, the disproportionate amount of root system to canopy most likely resulting in an abundance of new branch growth again this year.  Thin out and remove excessive branching, crossing branches, and branches growing into the interior of the canopy.

When selecting two branches to remain it is best if they are at least one hand width apart.

With less canopy to support our Chinese Pistache has produced a lot of new branches this year that need to be thinned out.

Three years post-ice storm our Chinese Pistache’s shape has greatly improved after two winters of restorative pruning. One more year of pruning is planned after the Christmas lights come down in January.

Our Chinese Pistache with a wonderful oval canopy before the ice storm in October of 2020.

• If the central leader was damaged two years ago and cuts were made to establish a new central leader, notice how the new central leader is developing.  Remember, it is important to not allow a cluster of new branches to compete for the central leader.  The outcome will not be good in future years in both the health and the appearance of the tree.

After year one of restorative pruning our Chinese Pistache has started to regain its oval canopy.  

If clusters of new branches are allowed to remain these areas will be weak and susceptible to future ice and wind damage.

• Follow the tree trimming techniques listed above.

• Restoring a heavily storm-damaged tree is a commitment to a 2-to-3-year process of evaluating and shaping.  If your trees were damaged in the ice storm three years ago, don’t miss the opportunity to continue restorative pruning this winter.

Experience and knowledge are important for successful tree pruning. 

If you need more information OSU’s Extension Service Fact Sheet HLA-6409,

Or give us a call.  We can help by providing an evaluation of your tree’s health and making an improvement plan.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart

(405)367-3873

P.S. Hall | Stewart will be adding new team members in both office administration and lawn care techs in 2024. If you enjoy helping homeowners have their best lawns, let’s visit very soon — lorne@hallstewart.com.

December Lawn & Landscape Tips

With the hustle and bustle of the holiday season upon us, your lawn and landscape asked us to remind you they would also like to spend a little time with you this month.

Lawn Mowing – Warm-season lawn mowing wrapped up early in November while cool-season lawns still need occasional maintenance.  The more and more nights with temperatures in the 20’s the more fescue lawns will slow down.  Depending on weather conditions, you can expect fescue to put on some growth well into December.  So, if you are a fescue lawn owner, don’t put your mower away just yet. Continue to mow as needed to keep the lawn clean and looking tidy.

Mulch mowing is a great way to manage leaves as long as you do it frequently.

With more and more nights with temperatures in the 20s fescue lawns are slowing down. But, don’t put your mower away too soon. Most Decembers, an occasional mowing is needed to keep them looking their best.

Oak trees are keeping the colors of fall alive with reds and browns.

Leaf Removal – Keeping leaves removed is recommended for all lawns, but critical if you have a cool-season lawn.  If you remove leaves regularly, you will find mulch mowing them back into the turf is an effective way to handle clean-up.  Fescue will completely die out under leaves.  If you allow leaves to collect in the corners of a fescue lawn over the winter, those areas will be thin to completely bare next spring.   

Remember - fescue lawns need light even in the winter.

Oak trees have been keeping fall color going with red and brown hues.

Fescue will completely die out if you allow leaves to pile up this winter.

Fescue lawns need light. Keep leaves removed regularly.

Monitor rainfall and anytime we receive a 1/2" rain or more. turn your irrigation off for a week.

A best practice is to water as needed throughout the winter. Anytime we go a week without some moisture, pick a nice day and water your lawn and landscape.

Irrigation – Soil moisture, is a critical ingredient for your landscape’s winter survival, and the key determining factor if you should water or not over the winter.  Soil moisture is currently good in the Oklahoma City area thanks to the occasional rains we have received over the past few weeks. 

How can you know the soil moisture?  www.mesonet.org is Oklahoma’s industry-leading website for weather and climate information.   The 1-day Average 2” Fractional Water Index is a good guide to watering decisions. 

Through the winter check the soil moisture regularly and compare the 7-day forecast.  If the soil moisture is low and if there is no moisture forecasted in the coming 7 days, select a nice day to water.  Most importantly, if my soil is dry, and the forecast has days below freezing, water thoroughly before the cold weather arrives. 

Winter damage to our lawn and landscape occurs when the top 3” of soil is dry and temperatures are below freezing.

If you have a rain/freeze sensor on your irrigation system and your system is equipped with freeze protection on the backflow, we recommend setting your system to run one time per week through the winter.  If the temperature is below 35, the sensor will not allow the system to run and if there has been a recent rain, the system will remain off. 

Winter is the best time to for corrective tree pruning.  As leaves drop, inspect your tree canopies and make a plan to prune this winter.

Tree Trim – During winter dormancy, tree trimming is a great practice. As leaves fall and tree canopies are more visible, spend a few minutes analyzing the structure of your trees and start making plans for the next step of corrective pruning.   We will cover tree pruning techniques in detail in the next few weeks.  

With so many varieties of Japanese Maples they add color throughout the fall and into December.

Spring Bulbs –  Mid-November through mid-December is the perfect time to plant spring flowering bulbs. Spring bulbs require extended cold temperatures to produce.  If you procrastinate, you run the chance of not having a good color show next spring.

For a good spring color show bulbs need to be planted in the next couple of weeks.

Oak trees are one of the last trees to change color and then loose their leaves. Most falls you can count on them to add color to the landscape well into December.

Mulch – Another great landscape practice for improving the survivability of your landscape plantings is a fresh layer of mulch.  A 2-3” layer of mulch will provide insulation for your plant roots, retain moisture, and moderate soil temperatures.  We recommend adding a layer of fresh cedar, pine, cypress, or pecan mulch after you do your final leaf clean-up of the season. 

Lawns that did not receive two fall pre-emergent applications are starting to see poa annua, the most prolific winter annual weed, start to germinate in thin turf areas. Fall pre-emergent applications are as equally important as spring pre-emergent applications.

Soil Test – If your lawn, shrubs, or trees often look a little off-color and lack vigor, now would be a great time to check the soil pH and nutrients.  Fill a quart-sized plastic bag with soil from at least six spots in the area of concern.  Take soil from just below the surface.  Remove roots from the soil.  Use a separate bag for soil from your lawn and landscape areas.  Take the soil sample to your local Oklahoma State University County Extension Office. They will test the soil and send you a report for a nominal fee. The Oklahoma County office is located at 2500 NE 63rd St., Oklahoma City, OK 73111.

Weed Control – If you have not applied the second fall/winter pre-emergent and broadleaf weed control to your lawn yet, it is not too late to do so. The goal of this application is to extend the prevention of weeds until the spring pre-emergent is applied. 

The late fall pre-emergent application is timed to keep your lawn clean through the winter.

Tree Planting – Tree farms are harvesting freshly dug trees now.  Trees that are dug and replanted during dormancy have the best chance of survival.  If you are thinking about adding trees to your landscape anytime in the next year, don’t wait till spring or summer, plant this winter.

Even though fescue lawn growth has slowed, as a cool season grass, it typically keep great color through December.

Trees that are dug and replanted during dormancy have the best chance of survival.

Foot Traffic – Avoid walking on frozen grass.  If is particularly damaging to fescue.  Turf areas with winter foot traffic are slow to recover in the spring.

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape has enjoyed being a part of your lawn and landscape this year.

Anytime you need assistance with a lawn or landscape issue, we would love the opportunity to help. 

Our goal is to help you have your best lawn and landscape!

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Thankful v. Grateful

What?  Is this the weekly Hall | Stewart post?

I realize you read this every week for the latest lawn and landscape information and the title appears off subject today.  It is.  You have my permission to go ahead and hit delete now…you won’t hurt my feelings.

This week, Thanksgiving week, had me pondering the difference between ‘being thankful’ vs ‘being grateful’.

I love this time of year.   I believe Thanksgiving may be the best holiday on the calendar.  It isn’t over-commercialized.  It is simple.  It is a break in our busyness to spend time with friends and family and give thanks.

Tuesday morning, at our Hall | Stewart Weekly Huddle, we asked the question “What are you thankful for this year?”

The responses ranged from: “My wife!” to “My family!” to “Our team!” to “My newborn baby boy!” to “Our great customers who we get to help have their best lawns!” 

However, one team member’s response started me thinking more deeply about thankfulness.  Leo said, “I’m thankful for my changed life, my relationship with my Savior, and a life that is on a totally different trajectory than my old life!”

It started me wondering if that was thankfulness or was that gratefulness. 

Is there a difference?

A Google search started.  Conversations ensued.

Thesaurus.com states that in most cases they are viewed as exact synonyms. 

Dictionary.com says they are close synonyms commonly used to mean the same thing.

Exact?  Close? Or is there a difference?

I think there is a difference between thankful and grateful.

For me, being thankful is an event.  Thankful is when someone does something for you.  A gift.  A helpful hand.  A kind word.  It is an acknowledgment of benefits received.

Grateful is something deeper.  It is something richer. Gratefulness is felt in the soul.  Gratitude comes from the heart.  It goes beyond appreciation to a state of being.

I was very thankful to have another Thanksgiving with my mom whose mind has been fading for the past few years. Rarely does it appear she knows who I am anymore, but nonetheless, I was thankful to be with her on Thursday.  I am grateful for her impact on my life and my family.  She always wanted more for us than she had and encouraged us to achieve far more than we ever thought we could achieve.  I am more than thankful for my mom; I have heartfelt gratitude for her.

Another personal example that has me pondering the difference…

A few weeks ago, a DYI home project took a quick turn for the worse resulting in a Saturday afternoon in the emergency room followed by surgery on Monday to put one of my hands back together.  I am deeply thankful for the Integris Baptist Emergency Department doctors, nurses, and staff who practiced their craft so wonderfully that afternoon.  I am also deeply thankful for a skilled surgeon who had the knowledge and experience to know exactly how to fix my damaged hand.  And, the physical therapist who I am spending, and will be spending, way too much time with over the next few weeks, I am tremendously thankful.

But, it is the deepest heartfelt gratefulness I have for my wife who has so patiently woken up to my early schedule every day for the last 5 weeks to help me get ready and tie my shoes.  I am more than thankful for her; I am grateful she is by my side as I heal.

It is gratefulness I feel that my dad was with me when the accident happened, got me to the hospital quickly, and then returned to finish my project in the days that followed.  It is gratefulness I feel for family and friends who called, texted, prayed and showed up to check on Lori during my surgery. It is gratefulness that I feel for my Hall | Stewart partner and team members who stepped up to cover the workload I couldn’t do with my one un-injured hand.

Grateful is a deeper, stronger, more emotional version of thankful.

Thankful is recognition of a transaction.

Grateful is recognition, an acknowledgment of the difference others make in our lives. 

Seth Godin said it well this week in his Thanksgiving Day post, “The magic of gratitude is that it improves everything it touches.”

Gratitude is a state of being.  A position of gratitude changes your perspective.

What are your thoughts?  Are they the same or is there a difference?

(I promise to return to talking about what we know best – lawns and landscapes!)

May your days be filled with a spirit of gratitude!

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart

(405)367-3873

Your Lawn & Landscape Still Needs Moisture… Even During The Off Season!

As the lawn and landscape season winds down there is one very important never-ending task:  Monitoring the weather to make sure your lawn and landscape is receiving enough moisture.

After last week’s 2.5” of rainfall followed by our first freeze this week, the temptation is to turn the irrigation off and roll up the hoses. But, if your lawn and landscape could talk, they would be encouraging you to not cut off the water just yet and be prepared to give them a drink from time to time through the winter.

Most winter plant injury occurs when we receive a harsh cold spell while plant root systems are dry.

Sure, your lawn, trees, shrubs, and flowers don’t need as much water through the winter, but they do need some.  Your landscape needs at least ½” of moisture every two weeks through the winter.

Current Watering Recommendation:

Give your lawn and landscape a good deep soaking every 4-7 days.

Pansies need moisture through the winter to survive and make a strong spring show.

Make it a part of your routine from now until spring to check soil moisture and rainfall amounts at least once a week.  A great source is the Oklahoma Mesonet.  The Oklahoma Mesonet is a world-class network of environmental monitoring stations that consists of 120 stations throughout Oklahoma.

Use this link to check current soil moisture: https://www.mesonet.org/index.php/weather/map/2-inch_fractional_water_index/soil_moisture

Use this link to see the amount of rainfall in the last week: https://www.mesonet.org/index.php/weather/map/7_day_rainfall_accumulation/rainfall

Throughout the off season take advantage of nice, warm, light wind days

and give your lawn and landscape a good soaking.

Evergreens and fescue require more water attention during the winter.

Japanese maples have shallow roots that are susceptible to drying out during the winter.

Fescue and rye lawns will retain more color over the winter if the soil is moist went temperatures below 30 degrees.

Newly sodded lawns, due to a shallow root system, can experience freeze damage if the roots are dry during a winter cold spell.

Finally, all newer landscapes, those installed in the last two years require a little more watering attention over the winter.

Watering Through the Off Season - Monitor the weather.  Pay attention to the amount of rainfall we are receiving.  Anytime we go a week without a good rain or snow cover, pick a warm day and run your system through a cycle.  If you don’t have an irrigation system, pick an enjoyable day, stretch out the hoses and make sure all plant material receives a good soaking.

Pansies are a great winter annual as long as they aren’t bone dry when a cold front arrives.

A dry, windy and cold winter is hard on needle evergreens. Through a dry winter a good deep soaking every other week will help them survive.

Winter watering is particularly critical for evergreen shrubs and trees.  Windy days zap the moisture stored in their leaves making them sensitive to winter injury when we receive a harsh cold snap when they are dry.

Shallow rooted plants, such as: azalea and Japanese maple are also prone to winter injury when they do not receive regular moisture during dormancy.

Plants with shallow root systems, such as Japanese Maples and Azaleas, respond best if they receive at least 1/2” of moisture every 7-10 days throughout the winter.

If you have perennials or winter annuals such as pansies or kale, winter moisture is critical to their performance going into the spring.

Fescue lawns will retain more color in the winter and rebound quicker in the spring if they are not allowed to become bone dry during the winter.

Evergreens need moisture during to winter to keep their foliage healthy.

Set your azaleas up for a successful spring by making sure they have enough moisture this winter.

Snow cover has two benefits: 1. It provides insulation from very cold temperatures by trapping warm soil temperatures. 2. As the snow melts it acts as a good deep soaking for your lawn and landscape.

Consider Upgrading Your System – If your system doesn’t have a rain/freeze sensor, add one. A rain/freeze sensor allows you the ability to set the controller to run once per week and leave it.  If the temperature is below freezing, or if there has been a recent rain, the sensor will interrupt the scheduled cycle.  The benefit is you won’t have to remember to turn your system off when it is too cold, or it has rained.

Another Upgrade to Consider – Install a Rainbird WiFi Link controller and let us control your system for you.  We will monitor the weather and adjust the system through the winter based on the amount of moisture the area has received.

Remember – Most winter plant injuries occur when we receive a harsh cold spell while plant root systems are dry.

Give us a call, or respond to this email, if we can help you with irrigation solutions.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Fall Fertilizer Needs: Bermuda vs Fescue

One of the great things about Oklahoma is that we live in the transition zone.

What is the transition zone?

The transition zone is an area from northern Kansas to the Oklahoma-Texas border where you can grow both cool-season and warm-season turfgrasses.  The transition zone can experience both hot summers and cold winters, often making it hard to decide between a warm-season lawn (Bermuda or Zoysia) or a cool-season lawn (fescue). 

Why is that a good thing?  Because we can successfully grow both warm season and cool season turfgrasses.

The most common turf in Oklahoma is Bermuda. 

But, fescue, commonly thought of as only a shade grass, continues to increase in popularity as both a turfgrass suitable for shade and for full sun areas as well.   It is now very common to find Bermuda lawns with at least some fescue. 

Also, more and more lawn owners are realizing that fescue is more than a shade grass, it is a cool-season grass that can grow in full sun.

But, that can be a problem.  You have to think very differently about how you care for a fescue lawn versus a Bermuda lawn.  

Problem - Fescue won’t thrive, it will actually struggle to survive if it is fertilized like Bermuda.  And, the same is true for Bermuda.  Fertilize Bermuda like fescue and the result will be a thin, weak lawn.

Fertilizing cool-season lawns versus warm-season lawns requires a paradigm shift. 

While Bermuda is approaching the end of its season, fescue is starting its season.   

Let’s look at the differences.

Bermuda lawns are ending a season and need a low nitrogen, high potassium fertilizer to strengthen roots for the winter.

Spring Dead Spot is a disease that impacts bermuda lawns in the spring as the lawn is coming out of dormancy. One of the catalyst is heavy nitrogen applications in October applied in an effort to keep a warm season lawn green and active late into the fall.

Fall Fertilizer Applications:

Bermuda and Zoysia (Warm Season) –

Warm-season grasses are at the end of their growing season.  In October and November, warm-season lawns don’t require nitrogen.  With shorter days, cooler days, and nights, and the decrease in soil temperature, growth slows, and turf color fades. 

Heavy nitrogen fertilizer during October in an effort to maintain color longer into the fall is harmful for Bermuda and a catalyst for Spring Dead Spot Disease. 

The chances of having Spring Dead Spot Disease next year increases when nitrogen fertilizer is applied to a Bermuda lawn in the last 4-5 weeks before the first freeze, which in central Oklahoma is typically the first week of November. 

So, if you are thinking your Bermuda lawn needs one more shot of nitrogen before the end of the season, don’t do it.  There is a good chance you are doing more harm than good.

Bermuda, a warm season turfgrass,, performs best when fertilized with higher nitrogen during the summer month and low nitrogen fertilizer in the fall.

With cooler night time temperatures and shorter days, Bermuda lawns are slowing down. Resist the urgent to try keep them green and growing with high nitrogen fertilizer this month.

Because bermuda starts to thin out when it receives less than 6 hours of direct sunlight it is common to see lawns with both bermuda and fescue. The problem is you try to fertilize them the same, one will flourish and the other will struggle.

Fescue –

Fall is the beginning of a new season for fescue. 

As temperatures begin to cool in September, fescue lawns start regaining color, thicken, and actively growing.  

For fescue, fall is the same as spring is for Bermuda. 

In April and May, as soil temperatures warm and Bermuda starts to grow, a higher nitrogen fertilizer is important.   Again, fall for fescue is just like spring for Bermuda.  Nitrogen, the first number on the fertilizer bag, helps thicken fescue, encourages new growth, and adds a deep rich color to the lawn. 

Fall fertilizer applications on fescue will result in a healthier, thicker lawn.   And don’t forget, a dense healthy lawn is the best defense against weeds.

A fertilizer application with at least 25% nitrogen to start the fescue growing season is important.

Newly seeded fescue lawns benefit from a fertilizer application anytime within the first 4 weeks after seeding.

The fertilizer differences continue throughout the year.  Between now and next May, fescue performs best if it receives 4 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. 

Bermuda lawns are at their best when they receive their nitrogen between spring green-up in April and the end of September. 

In early summer, while Bermuda needs high nitrogen fertilizer the only fertilizer needed for fescue is a low nitrogen, high potassium fertilizer to strengthen roots headed into the summer heat, similar to only fertilizer needs of Bermuda heading into the winter cold.

Fescue lawns are start a new season every fall. A high nitrogen fertilizer application now will increase color and turf density.

Fescue can be grown in full sun but it requires a very different fertilizer schedule compared to bermuda.

For a successful, fescue lawn, you have to think backward from a Bermuda lawn.

For a successful Bermuda lawn, you must think backward from a fescue lawn.

You can’t fertilize them both the same way and expect them both to respond the same way.

The Good News –

If you subscribe to Hall | Stewart’s 7-Step Lawn Care Program, whether you have Bermuda, Zoysia, fescue, or a combination of turfgrasses, we will make sure each type is receiving the correct fertilizer based on the current season and growing conditions.  Our program recognizes that warm-season grasses and cool-season grasses have very different fertilization timing and needs.

If you have a overseeded fescue or are planning to this fall, don’t skip a fertilizer application. New seed grows rapidly and needs plenty of nutrition.

A healthy, thick and deep green fescue lawn next spring is easier to achieve with when a lawn receives the correct fall fertilizer applications.

Let’s cover one more misconception about fescue in the fall: 

Myth - If you are seeding fescue in the fall, it should not receive any lawn care applications. 

Not true…

Fact - Fertilizer applications are not only very important for the existing fescue, but it also plays a critical role in the establishment of new seed. 

Yes, if you are seeding you should not apply a pre-emergent herbicide until the seed has come up and the lawn has been mowed 2 or 3 times. 

But, fertilizer anytime within the first 4 weeks of seeding will provide the seed the nourishment it needs as the new seedlings germinate and begin to grow rapidly.

The challenge for lawns with both warm season and cool season turf is they require the exact opposite timing of fertilizer applications for them both to thrive.

Summary:

Bermuda lawns benefit from receiving their last high-nitrogen fertilizer application before the end of September.

Fescue lawns are starting a new season and require a high-nitrogen fertilizer as they regain color, thicken, and grow.

Both are important.

For the best lawn, it is important to know your turf type and fertilize at the correct time of the year.

If you need have questions or need help understanding the fertilizer needs of your lawn, we would love to help.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

The 4 Most Common Ways to Fail at Establishing Fescue

Summer is fighting hard to stay around as long as it can.  But I have something to say about that, ”Summer, your days are limited.  You will be replaced by fall’s cooler days very soon!”

Even though warmer than normal temperatures are still in the forecast, it is September and time to visit one of the most important lawn care activities of fall – Overseeding Fescue.

As we discussed on August 6th in Time To Evaluate Your Lawn, there are two approaches to using fescue in your lawn:  fescue in shady areas only or a full fescue lawn. 

After evaluating your lawn if you decided to establish fescue for the first time or if you decided you should add more fescue to your already fescue areas, we don’t want you to fail at overseeding.

Take a few minutes to review the four most common ways to fail at establishing fescue. 

Small, shady areas in your lawn where there is low air movement and shade are prime candidates for annual fall seeding with fescue.

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Fescue the last week of September last fall after overseeding in early September.

Failure to Seed in the Fall

Because fescue is a cool season grass there are two times per year you can plant fescue seed; Fall (September through October) and Spring (March and April). 

But, if you wait until spring to seed fescue, you are seeding at the second-best time and there is an enormous chasm between the establishment of fescue now (the best time) and next spring (the second-best time). 

Spring-seeded fescue will come up great, but it rarely establishes enough root system to make it through the summer heat (fescue’s off-season).  As a younger, weaker plant, spring-seeded fescue is also more susceptible to brown patch disease. 

Fall-seeded fescue has all fall, winter, and spring to establish a root system before enduring the heat of July and August. 

Don’t fail at establishing fescue – seed now, not next spring.

Failure #1 – Seeding fescue in the spring.

Fall seeded fescue is better prepared to withstand the heat of July and August.

Fescue is the best turf grass for areas of your lawn that receive dappled sun. Bermuda needs at least 6 hours per day of direct sun light.

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Failure to Create Good Seed to Soil Contact

Good seed-to-soil contact is important.  If you sow seed over the existing soil without some preparation, the chance of successful seeding is greatly reduced.  Research shows the percentage of germination decreases dramatically when the seed is just sewn on top of the ground.

You will have success if you start by cutting the existing turf short to remove excess grass.  Then loosen the soil to create good seed-to-soil contact. 

Aeration is the best method to loosen the soil and gain good seed-to-soil contact.  Aerating also gives you the extra benefit of improving the soil structure, increasing water absorption, and developing deeper roots.

Give more attention to bare areas and the edges.  Rough up the areas with a rake.  Rototilling isn’t necessary but breaking the surface of the soil in bare areas is needed. 

Heavy aeration is one of the best ways to create good seed to soil contact when seeding. You also get the added benefit of improved soil conditions from aeration.

In areas that are completely bare, spread a thin layer of peat moss over the surface after seeding to increase the seed-to-soil contact. 

• If overseeding an existing fescue area with a good stand of grass, spread seed at a rate of 5-8 pounds per 1,000 square feet.

• If establishing a new fescue lawn, spread seed at a rate of 10-12 pounds per 1,000 square feet.

  Failure #2 – Just spreading the seed over the top of the ground.

The lawn was being maintained at 3”.

This bermuda lawn is being cut short in preparation of overseeding it with fescue for the first time.

Cutting it to 2” will improve the seed to soil contact and increase the success of the first time overseed.

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Failure to Buy a Good Fescue Blend

Fescue was first introduced in the US from Europe in the 1800s as a pasture grass.  Kentucky-31 Tall Fescue was developed in the 1940s as an improved pasture grass and introduced to the home turf market in the 1960s by Pennington Seed. 

All seed grown in Oregon is certified. Buy it when possible.

Look for a fescue blend with at least 3 varieties. Blends contain the best varieties and give you more protection against disease and are more heat and drought tolerant.

Bonus tip - some seed companies have seed that is coated with compounds to stimulate growth.

What is the point of the seed history lesson? 

If you are buying Kentucky-31 Tall Fescue, you are buying an 80-year-old product when there are over 300 improved fescue varieties that offer darker green color, narrower blades, and improved tolerance to heat, cold, drought and disease.  Kentucky-31 is marginally acceptable as a lawn grass that tends to become thin and clumpy. 

Improved fescue varieties  are very heat and drought tolerant and can successfully be grown in full sun.

No matter the name on the bag of the seed, any improved variety will outperform Kentucky-31.

We believe using a blend is best when seeding fescue.  Blends are a combination of two or more varieties within the same species, such as two or more fescues in one mix.  Blends are a combination of the best species, tested over time, for the best shade tolerance and disease resistance. The number one problem with fescue is brown patch disease.  The best blends use fescue varieties that show strong resistance to brown patch.  Also, some blends will contain bluegrass and, or rye for an even more vibrant spring color. 

Failure #3 – Buying cheap seed.  You will get what you are pay for… a low-quality turf for years to come.

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Failure to Keep the Area Tacky Moist Until Seed Germinates

The first three are very important, but the 4th one is critical for success. 

Nothing will hand you a losing hand quicker than not keeping the seed moist.  You can get the first three correct and have complete failure if the seeded area is not kept moist until new grass is visible in the entire area.

Even water distribution is important in keeping the seed tacky moist until it comes up. Check your system. Look for areas where there isn’t complete head to head coverage. The result will be poor germinate around the sprinkler head.

This picture 14 days after seeding demonstrates how critical moisture is to seed germination. The seed in the area where the irrigation does not reach has not germinated at all while the moist areas are nearly fully germinated.

The worst thing you can do is water the seeded area, allow it to dry completely, water again, allow it to dry completely, repeat, repeat, repeat…  After a few times of drying out completely, the seed will no longer be viable. 

For the best success, set your irrigation to run 3 short cycles per day.  Set spray type zones to run 3-5 minutes each time.  Set rotor type zones to run 7-10 minutes each time.  If possible, set the system to run before dawn (4:00 AM), late morning (10:00 AM), and mid-afternoon (4:00 PM). 

You don’t have to have an irrigation system to establish fescue.  You only need to be diligent at watering every morning and every evening. 

Failure #4 – Not keeping the seed tacky moist until it germinates. 

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Fescue can be grown successfully in Oklahoma.  There are examples of great fescue lawns in every neighborhood, and there will be more and more as our environment becomes more and more shady.

Who should overseed this fall?

• If you have areas of your lawn where the Bermuda has thinned because of shade, you should seed this fall.  Bermuda needs at least 6 hours of direct sunlight for the best performance.  Less than 6 hours of direct sunlight and Bermuda starts to thin.

• If you have fescue areas that have become thin because of brown patch, drought, or insect damage, you should seed this fall.

• If you just want to keep your fescue thick and healthy, you should seed this fall.  Fescue doesn’t spread like Bermuda with runners across the top of the soil.  Fescue spreads through tillering through the soil and putting up new vertical shoots.  Fescue spread is slow and often rare in the transition zone in which we live.  To keep a fescue lawn at its best, adding more seed is common.

• If you want to have a green lawn longer into the fall and earlier in the spring, you should seed this fall.  Fescue is a cool season grass that stays green and active into early December and recovers from the winter in early March.  With a fescue lawn, it is common to have a green lawn for 10 out of 12 months.

Myth: It is difficult to grow fescue.  But, really it isn’t.  Growing fescue does require a different approach to your lawn, but it isn’t difficult when you avoid some of the most common mistakes in establishing fescue. 

Successful fescue lawns are the result of best seeding practices, best cool season turf maintenance practices, and persistence.  But, more importantly, they are a result of different thinking.

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Bonus Reason: Why Fescue Seeding Fails

Applying a fall pre-emergent before seeding in the area.  The same pre-emergent herbicide that prevents weeds will prevent fescue from germinating.  Wait until the new fescue turf has been mowed 2-3 times before putting a pre-emergent on the lawn.

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Special Note:   DO NOT use pre-emergent herbicides now in areas that are going to be seeded this fall.

If you need assistance in establishing a fescue lawn or have questions about fescue, give us a call – (405) 367-3873. 

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Time for a Summer Landscape Color Check

Wow!  The heat of summer is hanging on! 

How’s your landscape handling the heat?

A good activity for late August is to create a summer landscape journal.  Grab a few minutes and take pictures of your landscape while it is still hot.  Jot down a few notes about plants that are doing well and the ones that are struggling.

Next spring you will be glad to have the information when you make summer landscape plans. Too often we get excited about a plant that looks great in April and May only to have it disappoint when the heat is on in July and August. 

Great landscapes should include plants that add color and interest in every season, even when temperatures are pushing triple digits.

Here are a few things I have noticed doing well in the heat of late July and August:

The limes and red speckled leaves of Coleus make a nice accent to the yellow flower of Marigolds.

Joseph Coat is a great compliment for the reds of Bronze-Leaf Begonias.

Caladiums behind Impatiens is the perfect combination for shady areas of your landscape.

Annual Summer Seasonal Color

Coleus – Planted for the colorful foliage, it is available in both shade and sun varieties and many colors.  Colors range from limey yellow to red with many that have speckled leaves of yellow, green, and red. 

Joseph Coat – This low-growing, bright yellow-green annual is a great border in full to partial-sun areas.  It is also available in a dark red but is not near as dramatic as the brightness of the lighter variety. 

Lantana – You can’t beat lantana in the heat in full sun.  Some of the more common varieties are New Gold, Dallas Red, and Confetti.  Known for having a bushy growth habit, but there are varieties that are more compact and mounding. 

Lantana, one of the best lovers of summer heat, comes in so many colors that there has to be one perfect for your summer landscape.

The dark reds and lime-red of these Coleus varieties make a great combination.

Penta – Another annual plant that thrives in full sun.  Bright clusters of star-shaped flowers in red, pink, and white look great planted behind Joseph Coat.

Periwinkle – An old traditional annual plant that just keeps performing.  Periwinkle thrives in full sun. White with red center is most common, but also is available in vibrant pinks, reds, and violets.

Strawberry Periwinkle, red Penta, Lemon Zest Lantana, Stain Glass Coleus in front of Black-eyed Susan make for a showy mid-summer landscape.

A great combination for shady areas in the heat of summer is Caladiums and Impatiens.

Periwinkle is a summer loving annual that brightens landscapes with vibrant pinks, reds and whites.

Strawberry Periwinkle with a compliment of Black-Eye Susan

Penta will continue to bloom in full sun to partial shade through the hottest days of summer.

The lime color of Joseph Coat is a great compliment to the rosy pink of Strawberry Periwinkle

Angelonia and Sunpatiens both love summer heat and sun.

Sunpatiens – All the color burst you would expect from impatiens, but they love full sun and heat.  They come in a wide range of colors.  Sunpatiens have become one of my favorite summer annual plants.

Angelonia – It is available in whites, pinks, purples, and blues and very often you will find it mixed. Plant in full to partial sun. 

Sunpatiens and Lantana adding color in the summer sun.

Sunpatiens have become a staple for a splash of color in my summer landscape.

Orange Sunpatiens planted with Joseph Coat and yellow Marigolds.

Caladiums – The large colorful leaves make a great show in full or dappled shade.  You will find them in reds, whites, and pinks. Caladiums are great at adding a burst of color to shady areas of the landscape. 

Impatiens – Another old favorite that is hard to beat in the full shade areas of your landscape.  It is available in many colors.

Caladiums and Impatiens combine to add a splash of color in shady areas.

Perennials

Black-eyed Susan – Grows 2-3’ tall with dark green foliage and vibrant golden-yellow daisy type flowers with a dark brown center.  Blooming starts in late June and continues into August.  Their show in the summer heat is second to no other perennial.

Coneflower – A native prairie plant that puts on a great show through the summer.  Each plant will produce several clusters of 2-4” blooms.  They are available in several colors, but the purple varieties are my favorite.

Coneflower add color to the landscape through the hottest times of the summer.

Using the perennial Black-eyed Susan in your landscape will add a splash of yellow through July and into August.

Black-eyed Susans add bold brilliant flowers in mid-summer to our landscapes.

Coneflower is a perennial that blooms in midsummer.

Crape Myrtle, the longest summer blooming plant become more brilliant as the summer gets hotter.

Maybe the hardiest Hydrangea, Limelight, blooms during the heat of midsummer and they do well in full sun. These are planted around a parking lot on the west side of a building.

Shrubs 

Crape Myrtle – I have a tendency to mention them often, but as our longest-blooming summer shrub and/or tree they are a must-have for your landscape.  Varieties come in dwarf (2-4’), semi-dwarf (up to 8’), and standard (up to 25’).  Colors range from white, pink, purple, and red.  It seems that the hotter the summer, the more brilliant their blooms. 

Limelight Hydrangea – A very hardy hydrangea with unique mid-summer white blooms and a slight hint of green.  They look great planted in mass, as a hedge or as a single specimen.  Also, they do well planted in full sun. 

Bobo Hydrangeas and Black-eyed Susan both thrive in the summer heat.

Hardy Hibiscus – A spectacular summer bloomer that will quickly make a dramatic impact to any landscape.  Look for newer varieties as they have larger flowers.  For most flowers, they need full sun.  They are a great addition to a perennial garden or in front of an evergreen hedge.

Rose of Sharon – An old fashion shrub that deserves to be used more for flowers that appear from July through late summer.  It grows in all soils and does well in hot locations.  Blooms range from dark pink to lavender to white. 

Rose of Sharon is an easy to grow plant that blooms July through last summer.

The large flowers of Hardy Hibiscus are an eye catcher throughout the summer.

Vines 

Trumpet Vine – A favorite is the ‘Madame Galen’ variety. Trumpet-shaped salmon-red flowers throughout the summer for an extra-long blooming season.  Great for covering up fences and climbing arbors.  

Madame Galen Trumpet Vine have an extra long summer blooming season.

Visit public gardens during the hottest times of the summer to see what is doing great in their landscapes for fresh ideas.  The Myriad Gardens, Will Rogers Horticulture Gardens, and OSU’s Botanical Garden are just a few in the area.

Also, don’t be shy.  Stop at that house with the best summer color in your neighborhood and ask what they are growing!

What is putting on a show this summer in your landscape? 

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

The Myriad Garden is a great to visit for landscape ideas. Many of the plants are well marked.

Good Mowing Practices Make a Big Difference!

Great lawns are the result of well-timed lawn care applications, perfect weather conditions, and proper maintenance practices. 

Unfortunately, the impact of good mowing practices is often overlooked. 

When it comes to a great lawn, mowing practices are more important than the fertilizer you use, the weed control applications that are made, and the amount of water used.

 

Getting mowing right comes down to three critical practices: mowing height, mowing frequency, and managing the clippings. 

Mowing Height

Grasses adapt well to various mowing heights, but there is a direct relationship between mowing height and a healthy turf.  As the height of the grass is increased, the root system increases.  As the height is lowered, the root system decreases.  A taller turf yields a healthier root system and a lawn that will withstand more stress.  As the height and density increase, there is less room available for weeds to germinate and grow. 

Optimal cutting heights vary based on the type of grass and the time of year.  All turf grass should start the season low and gradually increase in height over the course of the summer. The goal is to have your lawn at its thickest and tallest height during the heat of summer. 

Fescue is at its best when it is cut between 2.5” to 3.5”. 

Bermuda is best maintained between 1.5” to 2.5”, but Tiff Type Bermuda should be maintained shorter, .5” to 1.5”.

Areas of shade need to be mowed at the maximum height.  The increase in leaf space will allow the plant the best possible chance to survive in the lower light.

A best lawn maintenance practice is to not remove more than 1/3 of the leaf blade when mowing.

Currently I’m trying to maintain my fescue lawn at 3”.  

Yesterday with the fescue reaching over 4” it was time to cut it back to 3”.

Mowing Frequency

Probably the biggest hindrance to having a great lawn is mowing on a schedule, not on need.  Most people mow their lawns once a week during the growing season. We all understand why.  We are busy and our only opportunity to mow is on our day off.  Or, you may have a landscape management company that mows the lawn once per week. 

But, for the absolute best lawn, mow based on the 1/3 rule rather than a set schedule.  For example:  If you desire to maintain your fescue at 3”, you should never let your lawn grow over 4.5”.  If you want to keep your Bermuda lawn at 2”, then you need to mow before it exceeds 3”, not just because it’s Saturday and you always mow on Saturday.

Whenever you remove more than 1/3 of the grass in a single mowing, you are cutting below the plant leaf and into the stem.  If you see yellow or brown areas after you mow, you are cutting more than 1/3.

Turf grass research shows when you cut into the stems the plant responds by using nutrients stored in the root system to regenerate leaves.  This reduces the strength, health, and density of the root system and results in a weaker turf.

What should you do when your lawn becomes too tall, and you need to cut off 50% or more to get back to the desired height?  Cut 1/3 off, wait a couple of days and then cut another 1/3 off.  Repeat until you reclaim the height you desire.

There is no doubt that frequent mowing at a uniform height, whether short or tall, is one of the most important aspects of having a great lawn.

Mowing with a mulching mower will return valuable clippings to the lawn. Grass clippings are mostly water and nitrogen.

Managing the Clippings

When you are able to mow frequently using the 1/3 rule, I recommend not catching the clippings.  Turf grass leaves are 80-90% water and nitrogen.  Grass clippings decompose very quickly and add nutrients back to the turf. 

Not bagging your clippings is a major step in improving your lawn’s quality.

When you bag your clippings, you throw a little of your fertilizer away every time you cut the lawn. 

Most years, I bag my fescue lawn a couple of times per year, the first time each spring and September when I cut the lawn short in preparation for overseeding.  So far this season, I have managed to dodge the rain interruptions, stay on my typical 4-to-5-day mowing habit and my mower’s grass bag has remained in the garage since the first cut of the season.

A common belief is that when you don’t bag your clippings you are increasing thatch buildup.  As long as you are only cutting the leaves and not the stems, thatch will not become a problem. 

Mulch mowing will not only return nutrients to your lawn, it will also return moisture. This picture was taken late July 2022 during a heat wave and drought. At this point the lawn was being watered deeply every 4 days, cut at 3”, and mulch mowed.

Alternating your mowing pattern will not only reduce compaction, but it will add a professional look to your lawn.

Two Important Bonus Practices:

1.     Mower blades should always be kept sharp.  Dull blades bruise the leaf resulting in frayed leaves and a duller lawn appearance. 

2.     Vary your mowing pattern throughout the season to reduce soil compaction.  Changing your mowing pattern will also improve turf appearance.  I recommend rotating through at least three different mowing patterns.  For example:  mow parallel to the street, the next time mow at a 45-degree angle, followed by mowing perpendicular to the street or at the opposite 45-degree angle. 

Changing the mowing pattern will reduce soil compaction and improve turf appearance.

Lawn mowing is the most time-consuming landscape practice. 

It has to be performed more frequently than fertilizing, weed control, bed weeding, shrub trimming, and flower planting.

It is easy to allow mowing to become just another task that has to be done.  But, a well, properly maintained lawn is well worth the time and effort. 

Nothing adds more curb appeal to a property than a well-groomed lawn.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

PS - The abundance of rain coupled with the warm night-time temperatures of July, Brown Patch is a Fescue lawn's biggest challenge currently.  If you have Fescue, click this link and take a minute to learn more.  

Summertime = water time!

This week marked the official start of summer. June 21st, known as the summer solstice, is the longest day of the year. 

It appears our weather got the memo.  Suddenly, temperatures are flirting with triple digits and suddenly there is less rain in the forecast.

As temperatures rise and rainfall declines, it is important to develop the best watering practices.   

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• Good watering practices start with being aware of current weather patterns and adjusting watering schedules.   

• Good watering practices need to be your number one focus in the landscape for the next few weeks.

• Good watering practices will have the biggest influence on the health and appearance of your lawn and landscape for the rest of the summer.   

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Best Watering Practices:

Apply 1” to 1.5” of water per week.  

Your lawn and landscape need 1” to 1.5” of moisture per week when temperatures are consistently 90 degrees or higher. 

Which begs the question: “How long should I water?” 

Every irrigation system is different – different head types, different size nozzles, different head spacing, different soils, different slopes, etc.  

The best way to know how long you should water is to measure the amount of water your system puts out in each zone. Take a few cans and place them around your lawn in a random pattern.  Run your sprinklers through a cycle and measure the amount of water in the cans.  If the sprinklers ran for 15 minutes and you had .25” of water, that zone needs a total of 60 to 90 minutes of run time per week.  

Next, determine how long you can run your irrigation before there is excessive runoff.  This will tell you how many times per week you need to water.  If you can get away with watering every 4th day, you will have a healthier, stronger landscape.  Unfortunately, with our tight soils, watering every other day on the required ODD/EVEN system during the hottest times is needed to get the correct amount of water on the lawn without excessive runoff. 

If you don’t have the time to audit the amount of water your system puts out, start with these settings, monitor, and adjust: 

Fixed spray pattern heads with 10-15’ spacings – 15 mins per time. 

Larger rotor type heads on 20-30’ spacings – 30 mins per time. 

Currently, I am watering my fescue lawn every 4 days using the best practices mentioned here.  Because of recently planted annuals and perennials, my landscape is currently being watered every other day.  I will continue the 4-day schedule for the lawn until I see signs of stress from lack of water.

Set your controller to water with back-to-back run times.  

For most of our landscapes, if you run our sprinklers long enough to get the recommended amount of water, you end up with a lot of water running down the street.  Splitting zone run time in half and setting the controller to run through the zones back to back will improve the amount of water that soaks in and reduce the amount of water that runs off.   

Example:  Set the controller to run at 4:00 AM and 5:00 AM.  When the 4:00 cycle completes, even if it is past 5:00, the controller will start the second cycle. 

I know from experience that moist soil will absorb more water than dry soil.  Soil is just like the sponge in your sink. A dried-out sponge repels water before it starts absorbing water.  Your lawn is the same.  The first cycle moistens the soil and the second cycle soaks in. 

Split, back-to-back, irrigation cycles are an old golf course trick.  For years, large commercial irrigation controllers have had a run/soak cycle setting that waters a short time, delays, and then waters a longer time.  Now, more and more smart controllers offer a run/soak cycle feature.

I started using split, back-to-back, irrigation cycles a few years ago on lawns with slopes. 

After seeing great results, I started incorporating the concept on all lawns.

 It makes a difference in watering efficiency.

Water in the early morning. 

Evaporation is at its lowest point in the pre-dawn hours.  Typically, the wind is also at the lowest point of the day in the pre-dawn hours. 

I prefer to set most irrigation controllers to start at 4:00 AM with the goal of having the cycle completed by 8:00 AM. 

Avoid watering in the heat of the day when much of the water will be lost to evaporation.  Also, avoid watering in the evening. Watering in the evening promotes many turf diseases because the lawn stays wet too long.

This is critical for fescue lawns.  If fescue stays wet for more than 6 hours at a time and nighttime temperatures are in the 70s, brown patch is unavoidable.  Fescue performs best in the heat if it is watered deeply, and grass blades are dry by noon. 

If you water your fescue lawn in both the morning and the evening during the summer because you “can’t seem to get enough water on it!”, your lawn isn’t struggling because it is too dry, your lawn is struggling because you have created the perfect conditions for brown patch, a fescue lawn’s worst enemy.

IMPORTANT: Don’t water fescue in the evening during the summer. When water remains in the leaf for more than 6 hours, brown patch disease will develop.

How much difference does infrequent, deep watering make when it comes to developing a drought tolerant lawn?  This is my home lawn on August 20 last summer.  As an experiment I watered every 4 days starting August 1st. Temperatures were in the upper 90s to 100s the first 20 days of August last year. The only rainfall was 2/10” on August 10. Because of deep watering, my fescue lawn, in mostly sun, was able to stay green and healthy during last year’s hot summer.

Daily watering is not needed.  

Unless you are trying to get newly planted seed to germinate or new sod to take root, there is not a good reason to water every day.  Always water deep and infrequent.  Daily, shallow watering creates a landscape that is shallow-rooted and more dependent on constant moisture for survival. 

Fescue will also benefit from deep soakings, every other day, through the summer months. Shallow, daily watering in the summer heat is very damaging to fescue. Again: Brown patch symptoms look very similar to drought stress. Typically, the more you water, the worse the fescue looks, so you add more water, and the cycle of decline continues.

A common myth I would love to dispel is that fescue requires a lot more water than Bermuda.  Yes, it does for a couple of weeks in the fall when you are trying to get newly seeded fescue to germinate, but mature fescue doesn’t require more moisture than Bermuda. 

Aeration improves moisture absorption. 

You can’t beat aeration for improving your soil structure. A key benefit of improved soil structure is better water absorption.  Lawns that receive annual aeration (or at least every other year) do not experience as much runoff. 

Always pay attention to water needs.  

If we receive 1/2” of rain or more, turn your controller off for a few days.  Install a rain sensor if you are not good at remembering.  A rain sensor will pay for itself easily in one season. 

Just because it is summer, don’t assume you can leave your controller in automatic and forget it. 

Don’t stress if your lawn and landscape get a little dry, it will rebound quickly once water is applied. 

A good indicator that your lawn is needing water is the footprint test.  If the grass retains your footprints instead of quickly springing back, it is time to resume watering.

Fescue growing on the top of a sprinkler head.

Watch for uneven water patterns. 

If you notice areas where the lawn color is fading, you may have uneven moisture patterns.  This could be the result of a broken head, a clogged nozzle, or a head that is out of adjustment. 

Head to head coverage is when the water from one sprinkler head reaches all the way to the next head. Without head to head coverage, dry areas can develop around heads.

Fixing uneven water patterns in your lawn may be as simple as making sure heads are straight. A leaning head will result in uneven water distribution.

A clue to an uneven watering problem is an arc pattern matching the sweep of an irrigation head.

Even if you don’t have an irrigation system, the concepts of good watering apply.  

It is important to learn how long you need to water when you are using a hose-end sprinkler.  Next time you water, set out a few cans.  You will be surprised how long you need to water to get the proper amount of water on your lawn. 

Invest in a digital hose water timer, such as the ones made by Orbit.  It will make it easier for you to control the timing and frequency of watering. 

If you need help in determining your lawn and landscape’s water needs, let us know. 

We can schedule an irrigation audit for your lawn and landscape.  We will inspect for uneven water distribution, absorb water rates, make recommended irrigation changes, and set the controller for optimal operation.  Give us a call if we can help – (405)367-3873.

A healthy landscape is an important part of our environment.

A healthy turf helps clean the air, trap carbon dioxide, reduce erosion, improve groundwater quality, absorb noise, reduce temperatures, as well as adds curb appeal and value to your home. 

A key component of a healthy landscape is correct water usage. 

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

More perennials, please!

Over the years, I have become more and more fond of using perennials in the landscape. 

In the early days of my love for landscapes, I was slow to add perennials because they don’t add color all season and often their foliage is unattractive after the blooms faded.  When I did add a few, they always found their home in an out-of-the-way, background location of the landscape. 

I still believe annual color is the best choice close to the front door, along the front walks, and key areas around outdoor living spaces.  Annual color is the best way to create a bright, welcoming, and season-long statement in the landscape.  But, more and more, I find myself adding perennials to landscapes.   

What is the difference between annuals and perennials?

Perennial plants regrow every spring.

Annual plants live for only one growing season and then die.

Perennials usually have a shorter blooming period compared to annuals.

Great landscapes use a combination of both plants.

There are so many perennial choices.  Books and books have been devoted to perennials.  I have my favorites.  Favorites that have found a home in my landscape, and although none of them add color the entire season, as a group, they do add interest from spring to fall. 

Creeping Phlox (Phlox stolonifera).  The first to welcome spring each year.  Creeping phlox produces a spring-like carpet in pastel hues of white, lavender, red, and pink.  Creeping phlox is a moderate grower that can spread up to 2’ but only reaches 4-6” in height.  It prefers full sun but will tolerate some shade each day.  Borders, walls, and around boulders are where it looks best.  In my garden, you will find it cascading over a rock retaining wall. It tolerates most soils as long as it is well drained.  The plant requires little maintenance.  Mites are about the only insect problem it will have.   

Creeping Phlox

Creeping phlox cascading over any landscape wall is a great way to say “hello” to spring.

Dianthus

Dianthus and Salvia planted along a flagstone walkway.

Creeping Phlox

Creeping Phlox

Dianthus (Dianthus).   It works well as a border, in small groupings, around boulders, or as a single plant reaching 10-15” tall with a spread of 12-24”.  They bloom in late spring to early summer in rose, pink, white, and red.  They prefer areas where they will receive at least 6 hours of full sun each day but will tolerate some dappled shade or afternoon shade.  Just like creeping phlox, they are a cool season lover.  They will grow in most soils, prefer alkaline soils, but waterlogged soil will cause crown and root rot.   Heavy mulching near the crown of the plant can be detrimental. Late March through April and into May is the peak bloom time.  Light feeding in the spring with a complete fertilizer of phosphorus, potassium, and low nitrogen is recommended.  Other than an occasional aphid or powdery mildew issue, they do not have many problems.  There are more than 300 varieties of dianthus to choose from.  My all-time favorite is ‘Firewitch’.  It has a silver-green foliage and a vibrant pink bloom. One shortcoming – it is not uncommon for them to thrive for a few years and then gradually decline, so you may need to replant every 3-4 years.  I have found this true with the dianthus planted in my front landscape, but at the same time, I have a planting of dianthus in my back landscape that has overperformed for at least 10 years running.

Dianthus

‘May Night’ Salvia (Salvia x sylvestris).  Sage-type flower spikes of deep bluish-purple that will add color in April, May and early June. The best flower show will be in full sun, but it will tolerate a little dappled shade each day.  The plant grows 12-18” tall with flower spikes reaching 24”.  The plant looks great in the middle of the garden planted behind creeping phlox or dianthus, and in front of Shasta daisy or Black-eyed Susan.  The leaves often become tattered later in the summer. Keep faded blooms removed to maximize bloom period and pruning the plants after blooming may result in a few fall blooms. In the early spring, before new growth emerges, remove the dormant foliage.  Salvia tolerates clay soils but will struggle with root rot if the soil stays saturated. 

Cutting Salvia back after it has finished blooming for the season.

From April through early June you can count on May Night Salvia adding deep blue to purple spikes of color to the landscape.

Pink Dianthus, May Night Salvia with Gold Moneywort ground cover.

Daylily (Hemerocallis).  There are over 80,000 varieties of daylily.  They come in nearly every color and shade of color you can imagine, ranging 10-36” tall and 12-24” wide.  Depending on the variety, blooms start in early summer and extend into late summer with a successive blooming habit that lasts 4-6 weeks. They also are one of the most adaptable plants.  They are very cold-hardy and very heat tolerant.  They are happy in almost every soil condition; clay, loam, dry, wet, and low nutrient.  They prefer full sun but will bloom in partial shade.  With a clump-type growth, they are dynamic planted in a mass grouping.  Leave dormant foliage until new foliage emerges in the spring.  Fertilize in early spring and again in early summer.  Clumps can be divided every 3-5 years in the fall.  Remove spent flower stocks to encourage more blooms.  The most common yellow daylily is ‘Stella de’ Oro’.  ‘Pardon Me’ is a great red daylily.  Planting daylilies behind liriope (monkey grass) will help cover up the unattractive foliage as it begins to fade in late summer.  Look around, daylilies started putting on their early summer show this week.

‘May Night’ Salvia

‘May Night’ Salvia

May Night Salvia

Daylily

Daylight

Red Coneflower, Black-eyed Susan and Shasta Daisy

Shasta Daisy (Chrysanthemum x superbum).  Classic daisy appearance of white petals around a yellow center.  They grow in clumps 1-2’ wide and 2-3’ tall.  Best if planted in fertile soil that drains well.  The more sun they receive the more they will bloom.  Shasta Daisies start blooming in early summer and can last until early fall.  They make great cut flowers.  Keeping the faded blooms cut will extend the color show.  After the foliage goes dormant in late fall, cut the stems back to 1-2”.  They respond well to light fertilizer in the spring.  Daisies perform best if they are divided every 3-5 years.  Considered a low-maintenance plant, aphids are about the only insect you may see.  ‘Becky’ is a favorite variety.

Daylily and Shasta Daisy

Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia grandiflora).  Daisy-like golden-yellow flower petals surround a dark brown or black center reaching 2-4’ and spreading 2’.   The large flower blooms (2-4”) will be arriving in the next few weeks and will continue into July.   And, if you keep spent blooms trimmed off, you will get a few blooms in the fall. Plant in sun to partial shade.  As a native prairie plant, you will find it to be low maintenance.  It tolerates most soils but prefers well-drained.  Because of its height, plant in the middle of a bed or as a background to lower perennials, similar to dianthus or salvia. The plant can be divided every 3-5 years.  Remove dormant foliage anytime in the fall or winter.  It can develop powdery mildew if in too much shade.  Minimal feeding is required.  Keep a watch out for occasional aphid problems. 

One of the best late summer blooming perennials is Black-eyed Susan.

Black-eyed Susan

Black-eyed Susan

Because of its height, plant in the middle of a bed or as a background to lower perennials, such as dianthus or salvia. The plant can be divided every 3-5 years. Remove dormant foliage anytime in the fall or winter. It can develop powdery mildew if in too much shade. Minimal feeding is required. Keep a watch out for occasional aphid problem.

Coneflower

One of the longer blooming summer perennials is Coneflower.

Coneflower

Coneflower (Echinacea).  A native prairie plant with purple or white blooms 2-4” in diameter.    Just like black-eyed Susan it reaches 2-4’ in height and spreads out 2-3’ and makes a good show planted in the back or sides of the garden.  But it also works well as a single specimen.  Plant in sun to partial shade.  It is one of the longest summer bloomers with a show that lasts 5-8 weeks. The coarse texture of the leaves makes them well-suited near softer-textured plants such as ornamental grasses.  It enjoys well-drained, fertile soil.  Removing faded flowers will encourage more blooms.  Remove dead foliage in the winter.  Coneflower is fairly disease tolerant and responds to feeding early in the growing season, and also likes to be mulched.

Hardy Verbena (Verbena).  This low-growing (4-6”) spreading (2-3’) perennial thrives in the summer heat while producing purple, pink, red, or white blooms.  Verbena is not picky about soil type but requires full sun.  When it gets more than 2-3 hours of shade per day, its biggest problem is powdery mildew disease increases.  The low-growing nature makes it perfect for the front of beds, along walks, and cascading over walls and slopes.  It also looks great in pots and window boxes.  Good drainage and fertile soils are needed and with consistent irrigation blooms and spread will increase. Feed in spring and after the first flush of heavy blooms.  Don’t fertilize after July.  Verbena likes mulch to insulate roots and hold in moisture.  Sheering the plant just below spent blooms will encourage growth and more flowering.  My favorite variety is ‘Homestead Purple’. 

Garden Mum (Chrysanthemum x moratorium).  Typically thought of as an annual, they make a great perennial for fall color with shades of pink, red, white, and yellow.  Plant height and width are both 1-3’ resulting typically in a round shape.  They produce a wonderful burst of color for 2-4 weeks in late September and October.  Mums will tolerate light shade but prefer full sun.  To survive the winter as a perennial they need moisture and good drainage. Therefore, add an ample amount of compost when planting in our clay soils.  Dormant foliage can be removed anytime during the winter or in the spring when new growth emerges.  Mums will bloom a little in the spring or early summer.  Once the early blooms fade, keep the plant sheared to the shape and height you prefer.  Stop shearing after the first of July.  When you shear a mum during the last half of the summer, you are removing the flower buds for the fall.

Hosta (Hosta).  Monrovia.com lists over 78 varieties of hosta.  This shade to partial sun loving plant is perfect for adding brightness to shady areas.  Varieties range in size, but 12-14” tall and 30” wide is common.  They prefer organic soil and regular watering when it is hot.  Their leafy appearance is a great companion to ground covers.  Monrovia calls them “the potato chip of plants…once you have one and watch how it lights up the shade you will want another.”  One of my favorites is ‘Patriot’.  I dare you to plant just one. 

Hosta x 'Patriot' is a compact variety with large glossy green foliage with gleaming white edges.

King Ostrich Fern

Fern.  Excellent for shade gardens and damp areas. They require frequent watering, especially in the summer heat.  There are many varieties but for most gardens, ones that grow 18-30” with a 24” spread, are best.  They are an easy-going plant that adds texture to the landscape.  It is a great plant for filling in bare areas in the shade.  Matteuccia struthiopteris ‘The King’ is a favorite Ostrich fern. 

Coral Bells (Heuchera).  A great shade companion to hosta and caladium, this perennial will also be happily planted in a little more sun.  It makes a great border, a mass grouping, or plant a single plant as an accent.  There are many varieties with colorful foliage to choose from.  ‘Palace Purple’ has deep purple foliage which looks great planted with ‘Patriot’ Hosta. 

Coral Bell 'Palace Purple' planted as an accent with fern in a shady raised planter.

Gaillardia

The best time to add perennials to your landscape is spring and fall.  But, you can find success adding perennials most anytime; just avoid the hottest days of the summer and the coldest period of the winter.  My favorite time to add perennials is when I am planting my summer color at this time of the year and again in the fall when changing the summer color out for pansies.

A great resource is Monrovia.com. https://www.monrovia.com/plant-catalog/

Another great way to learn more about perennials is to take monthly walks through the Myriad Garden and Scissortail Park to see what is currently in bloom.

What are your favorite perennials? 

We are always on the lookout for new ideas.

Text or email us a few pictures of perennials blooming in your landscape!       

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873