Why is an Early Lawn Care Application so important?
Yes, it has been a cold and snowy week in central Oklahoma.
Still yet Hall | Stewart is focused on spring and your lawn.
Why? Because when it comes to having a clean, weed free lawn this year, what you do or don’t do for your lawn between now and the end of February will determine the condition of your lawn this year.
There are many reasons for a weedy lawn:
Weeds are common in unhealthy soil,
Thin turf is an invitation for weeds to fill in the voids,
Weeds thrive in compacted soils,
Drought stressed lawns are a favorite target for weeds,
and the list goes on and on and on….
But, the most common reason for weeds is failure to apply a pre-emergent herbicide at the right time.
The early Spring Pre-Emergent application is the first step, a critical step, in growing a weed free, healthy lawn this year.
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape has started applying the first application containing the early Spring Pre-Emergent to lawns — making sure all our clients receive the critical first step in weed prevention at the right time.
Year round we field a lot of questions about the best way to have a weed free, healthy lawn.
When do we get most questions about weeds? You are right, after a lawn is covered with weeds – when it is hard to gain control without causing damage to the turf.
The right time to have a conversation about weeds is before they germinate. Prevention of weeds is much easier and healthier than controlling them later.
Let’s cover a few key questions about weed prevention:
Why is the early spring pre-emergent so critical?
Summer annual weeds come up every year. An annual weed grows, reseeds, and dies all in one year. There are both grassy and broadleaf annual weeds. A quality pre-emergent herbicide will prevent many types of weeds.
The most aggressive annual grassy weed is crabgrass.
If you had a single crabgrass plant in your lawn last year, or your neighbor’s lawn had crabgrass, or your neighbor’s neighbors had crabgrass, there is a 100% chance you will have crabgrass this summer if you DO NOT apply a pre-emergent to your lawn this spring.
If you have a fescue lawn it is very important to make sure the products you put on your lawn are safe. The first lawn application of the year is one that you have to be careful not to put the wrong herbicide on fescue or you will cause damage.
Dallisgrass is often confused with crabgrass during the summer. Dallisgrass goes dormant in the winter but the rhizomes stay alive. The first application of the year as a good time to gain control and reduce the spread of this difficult weed.
A weed free lawn this summer starts with a pre-emergent application before the end of February.
Why am I so sure you will have crabgrass if you skip the early spring pre-emergent application?
A single crabgrass plant produces thousands of seeds. Because crabgrass is so prolific, even the nicest lawn in your neighborhood last summer can be full of crabgrass this summer if a pre-emergent is not applied this year.
Because crabgrass is an annual grassy weed, without a spring pre-emergent even the best lawns will have crabgrass this summer.
Because crabgrass is fast growing and spreads quickly, it can have a dominant presence in your lawn by May without a spring pre-emergent.
Mid summer lawn that did not have any pre-emergent in the spring.
What is the best timing for the first lawn care application?
With thousands of seeds lying dormant in the soil, as soon as conditions are right, germination will begin. Germination of crabgrass occurs typically in early to mid-March in central Oklahoma.
The key determination is soil temperature. When soil temperatures consistently reach 55 degrees, germination occurs. Currently, soil temperatures in the Oklahoma City area are in the low-40s.
Between now and early March, soil temperatures will go up and down, gradually creeping up until they reach that right temperature for summer weed germination.
Lawns that receive the early spring pre-emergent application sometime between now and the end of February have the best chance to be weed free this year.
Will one pre-emergent application per year be enough?
Crabgrass is one of the first annual weeds to germinate each spring, but it does not germinate all at once. Germination of seeds will continue throughout the summer.
Other summer annual grassy weeds such as goosegrass, foxtail, and sandbur will germinate soon after crabgrass. Knotweed and spurge are summer annual broadleaf weeds that will germinate even later.
Summer annuals germinate from mid-March through the summer.
Pre-emergent herbicides will not provide coverage for the entire summer growing season. A pre-emergent works by creating a blanket over the soil to prevent seeds from germinating. Rain, irrigation, foot traffic, all combine to gradually break down the herbicide.
Full summer control is only obtainable if you repeat the application again between early March and the end of May, 6-12 weeks after the first application.
A lawn care application between now and the end of a February will prevent crabgrass from coming up in March.
Does a pre-emergent need to be applied as a liquid or can it be spread as a granular?
Pre-emergent herbicides come in both forms, and either is effective as long as the product is applied evenly, creating continuous weed barrier. Watering the product in to the root zone is important. Always follow instructions left on your door anytime an application is made to your lawn.
For the do-it-yourselfer, it is important to study and follow the label. Know your grass type and make sure the product you are applying is approved for your lawn.
Don’t over apply. Pre-emergent herbicides work by drying out weed seeds. Too much pre-emergent will stunt root growth and slow spring green-up.
And, for the DIYer, only buy what you need per application to limit the amount of product you have left lying around the garage.
Why are pre-emergent sprays blue-green?
Actually, they are not. Some lawn care companies add dye to their herbicide to use as a marking pattern. We are not a proponent of using dye. Most pre-emergent herbicides have a light coloring that aid the lawn care professional in applying the product evenly to the surface.
We find dyes messy; they give the natural landscape an artificial look and add an unnecessary chemical to your landscape.
For your best lawn this summer an early season pre-emergent must be applied before the end of February.
Most importantly, for the best lawn in 2025, you must apply a pre-emergent to your lawn before the end of February.
If you subscribe to a Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Program, you can count on receiving your application before any chance of summer weed germination begins.
If you are not currently subscribing to a Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Program, give us a call (405)367-3873 or here and we will provide you with a Free Professional Lawn Evaluation.
3 reasons snow is good for your lawn and landscape: Snow insulates plant roots by trapping warm soil temperatures, it waters deep as it slowly melts, and it adds nitrogen to the soil.
Bonus Information
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Nutsedge – Possibly The World’s Worst Weed
Sorry…no pretty pictures to inspire you in the landscape this week.
It’s time to discuss what is often the most challenging part of lawn care this time of year….Nutsedge Control!
And I know, I know, I have called many weeds “the world’s worst weed”, but If I am asked what are some of the weeds that give all lawn enthusiast the most difficulty, there is a 100% chance I am going to respond without hesitation: “NUTSEDGE!”
Nutsedge is fast growing, has an upright growth habit and light green in color. Because it grows nearly twice as fast as your turf and is lighter, it ruins the best maintained lawns within a couple days of mowing.
What does nutsedge look like?
Commonly called nutgrass because it looks like a grass, but it is a sedge with triangular ‘V’ shaped leaf blade arranged in groups of three at the base.
Nutsedge grows faster, has a more upright growth habit, is lighter in color and has a thicker, stiffer leaf blade than your turf grass.
What are the best growing conditions for nutsedge?
Nutsedge thrives in moist, tight soils. It is common to find it growing in areas of poor drainage, around irrigation leaks, and in lawns that are watered too frequently.
Although nutgrass starts in overwatered lawns or areas of poor drainage, once it is established it thrives with normal irrigation, in dry lawns and even through a drought leading many to believe nutgrass has more to do with the soil structure than moisture.
Nutsedge also prefers full sun and doesn’t grow well in shade and typically isn’t a problem in shady lawn areas.
Nutsedge first emerges in May and continues to thrive until the first frost.
Why is nutsedge so difficult to control?
Nutsedge is a perennial weed. Perennial weeds are always more difficult to control. But nutsedge is one of the toughest, because it spreads by underground tubers. Four to six weeks after the first blades emerge, typically in late June to early July, nutsedge begin forming new tubers (nutlets) and rhizomes (underground stems).
The tubers grow 6-12” deep and are referred to as nuts - thus the common name of nutgrass. Nutsedge spreads by growing rhizomes which produces more nuts. Weeds that propagate through tubers and rhizomes are very difficult to control because unless you get control of the rhizome and tuber, the plant will sprout new growth within a few days. Also, tubers can remain dormant in soil for three seasons.
Be proactive. With the first sign of nutsedge, take action. Nutsedge is much harder to control once it has been allowed to spread and mature.
Weed killers labeled for use on nutsedge will be either a contact killer or a systemic. A contact herbicide will kill only the leaves and the tubers and rhizomes will remain active if you make only a single application. Systemic products will translocate through the plant to the tubers and rhizomes.
Remember, single applications of most herbicides labeled for nutsedge will kill the plant leaves but leave the nut unaffected.
Because it is not a grassy or broadleaf weed, common herbicides will have little to no control. For nutsedge control you must search out products specifically labeled for nutsedge.
In late June to early July, uncontrolled areas of nutsedge will begin to multiply and take over areas.
A few herbicides available at most garden centers labeled for nutgrass include:
Basagran – A second application must be made 7-10 days after the first application.
Image Nutsedge Killer – Requires a second application 3-4 weeks later.
Sedge Hammer Plus – Must have a surfactant mixed with the herbicide to be effective and a second application will need to be made in 6 weeks.
Ortho Nutsedge Killer and Gordon’s Trimec Nutsedge Plus – Both require follow up treatments every 4 weeks.
Please read the label and follow it. You will need to know your turf type. Read the label to make sure you can use the product on your lawn.
Is pulling nutsedge a good idea?
Pulling nutsedge is only recommended when the plant is very small before nuts start to develop on the rhizomes (May through June). Once nuts start to develop, you must remove the nut when pulling the weed, which is typically 6-12” below the surface.
If you pull the weed and leave the nut behind, new plants will emerge very quickly. If pulling, the best method is to dig at least 12” deep and 12” wide to get all the tubers.
Research suggests that anytime the tuber is stressed, by either pulling the top off or by killing the top without killing the tuber itself (the result of a single application of an herbicide), the tuber multiples. Therefore, many people experience more nutsedge after they have pulled or sprayed.
Cultivating nutgrass, such as in landscape beds, is ineffective. All you are doing is redistributing the tubers and rhizomes.
What else can I do to be proactive in preventing nutsedge?
Aeration is a great way to reduce the chances of nutsedge starting and spreading. Aeration reduces soil compaction and reduces the best growing conditions for nutsedge.
Our experience is lawns which are aerated annually rarely have significant nutsedge problems.
Water only based on need and infrequently. Overwatering, keeping your lawn too wet, promotes the best growing conditions for nutsedge. Water deep. Allow the soil surface to become dry between waterings.
Correct water leaks in your sprinkler system promptly. Nutsedge will stake a claim to any areas that become waterlogged.
Along the same line of thinking, correct poor drainage areas. Often patches of nutsedge are an indicator of poor drainage.
If you find yourself struggling with nutsedge, give Hall | Stewart a call, (405) 367-3873.
Hall|Stewart’s 7-Step Lawn Care Program includes nutsedge control. One of the benefits of subscribing to our full program is we do not charge extra for nutsedge control. And, because we know the presence of nutsedge can quickly tarnish a great looking lawn, we use the most advanced nutsedge control herbicides available to the industry.
Nutsedge is one of the more aggressive and persistent weeds you will encounter. Control of nutsedge can be a long process. It is a marathon, not a sprint.
Success involves both the best cultural practices (aerating, watering, and mowing) and timely use of quality herbicides labeled for the control of nutsedge.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape
(405)367-3873
Often Asked Spring Weed Control Questions
Is it too late to put a pre-emergent on my lawn?
And, why do I need two pre-emergent applications in the spring?
“Is it too late….” Is the most asked question we receive this time of year.
The answer…. ”It is never too late to start a lawn care application program!”
In central Oklahoma it is always our goal to have the first pre-emergent on the lawn by the first week of March. Why? For the best lawn prevention of crabgrass is important.
Crabgrass germinates when soil temperatures reach 55 degrees for 3 consecutive days, which is typically mid-March in central Oklahoma. This year soil temperatures are right on schedule. For the last three days, soil temperatures in central Oklahoma have been at or above 55 degrees.
Wow! Spring is off to a fast start.
What a week of the landscape bursting with color!
Forsythia… Redbuds… Tulips… Daffodils… I could go on and on.
Spring also means lawns that have not been on a regularly scheduled lawn care program are also bursting with weeds.
Flowering Quince is one of the early spring bloomers. You can find this one in a grouping at the Myriad Gardens. Quince grows well in full sun to partial shade and has a dense spreading growth pattern.
The colors of spring are dynamic this year. Make time to take a stroll through the Myriad Gardens and enjoy the spring show.
Blooming Forsythia is a sign that you need to get a pre-emergent on your lawn if you haven’t already.
Who doesn’t love the bright color of Creeping Phlox in the early spring landscape?
Weeds generate a lot of questions this time of year. Let’s visit about a few of the most asked questions:
Is it too late to apply a pre-emergent herbicide?
When is it too late to put a pre-emergent on your lawn?
Why is it so important to prevent crabgrass?
Why is it important to apply a second pre-emergent application in the spring?
If I put a pre-emergent on my lawn every year in the spring, why do I have weeds now?
Before we get to the questions, let’s break down the word “pre-emergent”:
Pre - before. Emerge – come into view, to be seen.
A pre-emergent herbicide is used to prevent annual weed seeds from germinating by drying out the unwanted weed seed before it starts to grow.
Pre-emergent herbicides have little to no impact on weeds we are already seeing.
Henbit, an annual winter weed that is littering lawns is easy to prevent with fall pre-emergent applications.
Crabgrass seedling
Early Summer Crabgrass
Mid-Summer Crabgrass
Commonly asked pre-emergent questions:
“Is it too late to apply a pre-emergent herbicide?” (The most asked lawn care question this time of year.)
Crabgrass, the most feared annual summer weed, germinates when soil temperatures reach 55 degrees for 3 consecutive days, which is typically mid-March in central Oklahoma.
Currently soil temperatures in the Oklahoma City metro are hovering right around the magical 55 degrees. But, with colder temperatures this week, we should see a little lower soil temperature for a few days.
It is not too late to prevent the germination of most summer annual weeds this year. But it is best to apply a pre-emergent on your lawn as soon as possible.
Crabgrass is a very prolific yellowish to light green annual grassy weed that is east to prevent with a pre-emergent herbicide application.
“When is it too late to put a pre-emergent on your lawn?”
There are two reasons why it is never too late to start a weed control program:
1. The high quality professional pre-emergent herbicide we use will control newly germinated crabgrass during its first stage of development. So, if you do not apply a pre-emergent before germination, we can gain complete control if an application is within the first 2 weeks of germination.
2. Not all crabgrass seeds germinate all at once. Germination will continue through the spring and early summer. Even if you don’t get a pre-emergent on at the perfect time, having some prevention is better than none.
“Why is it so important to prevent crabgrass?”
Crabgrass is the most prolific summer annual grassy weed. As an annual it dies every year and comes back from seed the next year.
If you do not apply a pre-emergent on your lawn every year before crabgrass germination, it is certain that you will have crabgrass in your lawn during the summer.
Crabgrass is a fast grower and if left unattended will rapidly dominate turf. Just like the name suggest, it spreads low to the ground. It can be found in almost every turf and landscape setting during the summer months where a pre-emergent was not applied.
During the summer crabgrass grows faster than turfgrass and thrives under stress conditions of drought, heat, and low soil fertility, when turf is struggling.
Crabgrass dies in the fall after the first hard frost. But before it dies, one mature crabgrass will produce thousands of seeds.
Crabgrass will make a home in thin areas of turf this summer. Two keys to preventing crabgrass are two timely pre-emergent applications and a thick healthy lawn.
Why is it important to apply a second pre-emergent application in the spring?
Pre-emergent herbicides work by creating a barrier over the soil surface. The barrier gradually weakens over the season from foot traffic, mowing and periods of heavy rain. The edges of the lawn are the first to break down. The purpose of a second pre-emergent is to provide protection through the summer months.
Another reason for a second pre-emergent is to prevent other troublesome summer grassy weeds: goosegrass and sandbur.
Goosegrass germinates when soil temperatures reach 60 to 65 degrees. Because of the later germination period, it is common for goosegrass to dominate in lawns that only receive the first pre-emergent of the year. Goosegrass is common in areas of high foot traffic, compacted and poorly drained soils. Like most grassy weeds, prevention is the best medicine. Aeration is also a key step in reducing goosegrass.
Sandburs start germinating at 55 degrees soil temperatures, but they reach peak germination much later at 75 degree soil temperatures. A second pre-emergent application is critical for the prevention of sandburs. Another important characteristic of sandburs is they thrive in thin, dry turf. Two spring pre-emergent herbicide applications and a thick, healthy turf are the best defenses.
Goosegrass germinates when soil temperatures reach 60 to 65 degrees. Because of the later germination period, it is common for goosegrass to dominate in lawns that only receive the first pre-emergent of the year. Goosegrass is common in areas of high foot traffic, compacted and poorly drained soils. Like most grassy weeds, prevention is the best medicine. Aeration is also a key step in reducing goosegrass.
Sandburs start germinating at 55 degrees soil temperatures, but they reach peak germination much later at 75 degree soil temperatures. A second pre-emergent application is critical for the prevention of sandburs. Another important characteristic of sandburs is they thrive in thin, dry turf. Two spring pre-emergent herbicide applications and a thick, healthy turf are the best defenses.
If I put a pre-emergent on my lawn every spring, why do I have weeds now?
The most common weeds in lawns right now are henbit, chickweed and poa annua. All three are winter annual weeds. Henbit and chickweed are winter annual broadleaf weeds. Poa annua is a winter annual grassy weed.
Winter annual weeds need to be prevented in the fall with a pre-emergent herbicide just like summer annual weeds need to be prevented now. Winter annual weeds start germinating in September as soon as we start getting cool fall nights. Two fall pre-emergent applications are just as important as spring applications to have a weed free lawn.
The winter annual weeds currently in lawns can be controlled by mixing a post emergent herbicide with the pre-emergent application. By this time of year winter annual weeds are reaching maturity. As annual weeds mature their growth slows as they put their energy toward flowering and producing seeds before they die.
The challenge is weeds are slower to react to weed control applications as they mature. As growth slows, they do not draw in the herbicides as quickly as they do when they are actively growing.
Two important take aways -
If you haven’t put a pre-emergent on your lawn yet this spring, it is not too late. But the sooner the better!
If you have put a pre-emergent on your lawn it is important to put a second application on your lawn for season long weed prevention!
The timing of pre-emergent applications, the quality of the herbicide applied, and the right quantity are all critical components for achieving your best lawn this season.
If you are a subscriber to a Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Program, either the 7-Step Weed Control & Fertilizer or the 4-Step Weed Control Only, your lawn receives the critical First Pre-emergent Application and the important Second Pre-emergent Application every spring.
If you are not a subscriber to a Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Program, please contact us.
We want to make sure you receive timely pre-emergent herbicides to stop weeds before they start wreaking havoc on your lawn.
Preventing weeds is much easier on your lawn than trying to control them after they are up and growing. Once weeds take root harsher products must be used that may slow turf development.
If you have questions or would like additional information about pre-emergent applications, please respond to this email or give us a call.
Lorne Hall
Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Programs
(405)367-3873
Picture of the week! I found this Ornamental Peach putting on a brilliant spring show in one of our customer’s landscape and couldn’t resist taking pictures.
Two Important Pre-Emergent Questions
Is it too late to put a pre-emergent on my lawn?
And, why do I need two pre-emergent applications in the spring?
“Is it too late….” Is the most asked question we receive this time of year.
The answer…. ”It is never too late to start a lawn care application program!”
In central Oklahoma it is always our goal to have the first pre-emergent on the lawn by the first week of March. Why? For the best lawn prevention of crabgrass is important.
Crabgrass germinates when soil temperatures reach 55 degrees for 3 consecutive days, which is typically mid-March in central Oklahoma. This year soil temperatures are right on schedule. For the last three days, soil temperatures in central Oklahoma have been at or above 55 degrees.
Is it too late to put a pre-emergent on my lawn?
And, why do I need two pre-emergent applications in the spring?
“Is it too late….” Is the most asked question we receive this time of year.
The answer…. ”It is never too late to start a lawn care application program!”
In central Oklahoma it is always our goal to have the first pre-emergent on the lawn by the first week of March. Why? For the best lawn prevention of crabgrass is important.
Crabgrass germinates when soil temperatures reach 55 degrees for 3 consecutive days, which is typically mid-March in central Oklahoma. This year soil temperatures are right on schedule. For the last three days, soil temperatures in central Oklahoma have been at or above 55 degrees.
Crabgrass seedling
Early Summer Crabgrass
Mid-Summer Crabgrass
Then, it is too late?
No. There are two reasons why it is not too late to control crabgrass:
1. The professional pre-emergent herbicide we use will kill newly germinated crabgrass during its first stage of development. So, if you have not applied a pre-emergent yet this year, we can gain complete control if an application is made this month.
2. Not all crabgrass seeds germinate all at once. Germination will continue through the spring and early summer. Even if you don’t get a pre-emergent on at the perfect time, having some prevention is better than none.
Why are we so concerned about preventing crabgrass?
Crabgrass is the most prolific summer annual grassy weed. As an annual, it dies every year and comes back from seed the next year. Just like the name suggests, it spreads low to the ground. It is yellowish to light green in color.
Crabgrass is a fast grower and if left unattended will rapidly dominate turf. It can be found in almost every turf and landscape setting during the summer months where a pre-emergent was not applied.
During late spring and early summer, crabgrass grows faster than turfgrass and thrives under stress conditions of drought, heat and low soil fertility when the turf is struggling. Crabgrass dies in the fall after the first hard frost. But before it dies, one mature crabgrass will produce thousands of seeds.
Why is it important to have a second pre-emergent application this spring?
Pre-emergent herbicides work by creating a barrier over the soil surface. The barrier gradually weakens over the season from foot traffic, mowing and periods of heavy rain. The edges of the lawn are the first to breakdown. The second pre-emergent will provide protection through the summer months.
The Best News About Lawn Care Applications -
If you are a subscriber to a Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Program, either the 7-Step Weed Control & Fertilizer or the 4-Step Weed Control Only, you have already had your 1st Pre-emergent Application this year and your 2nd Application is on the schedule!.
An additional reason for a second pre-emergent is to prevent other
troublesome summer grassy weeds: goosegrass and sandbur.
Sandburs start germinating at 55 degrees soil temperatures, but they reach peak germination much later at 75 degree soil temperatures. A second pre-emergent application is critical for the prevention of sandburs. Another important characteristic of sandburs is they thrive in thin, dry turf. Two spring pre-emergent herbicide applications and a thick, healthy turf are the best defenses.
Goosegrass germinates when soil temperatures reach 60 to 65 degrees. Because of the later germination period, it is common for goosegrass to dominate in lawns that only receive the first pre-emergent of the year. Goosegrass is common in areas of high foot traffic, compacted and poorly drained soils. Like most grassy weeds, prevention is the best medicine. Aeration is also an important step in reducing goosegrass.
If you haven’t put a pre-emergent on your lawn yet this spring, it is not too late!
If you have put a pre-emergent on your lawn it is important to put a second application on your lawn for season-long weed prevention!
If you are not a subscriber to a Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Program, please contact us. We want to make sure you receive timely pre-emergent herbicides to stop weeds before they start wreaking havoc on your lawn.
Preventing weeds is much easier on your lawn than trying to control them after they are up and growing. Once weeds take root, harsher products must be used that may slow turf development.
If you have questions or would like additional information about pre-emergent herbicides, please contact us at (405)367-3873.
Lorne Hall
Hall|Stewart Lawn + Landscape
The most feared weed... Crabgrass!
Crabgrass is so well known — it’s the most talked about and most feared of all weeds. Most people are so captivated with the fear of having crabgrass take over their lawn that it is common for them to refer to any weed as the dreaded “Crabgrass!”
Crabgrass is so well known — it’s the most talked about and most feared of all weeds. Most people are so captivated with the fear of having crabgrass take over their lawn that it is common for them to refer to any weed as the dreaded “Crabgrass!”
With March as the critical point in preventing crabgrass, I thought we should hold a quick educational seminar on crabgrass.
What is crabgrass?
It is a summer annual grassy weed. This means that it dies every year and comes back from seed the next year. Just like the name suggests, it spreads low to the ground. It is yellowish to light green in color. Crabgrass is a prolific grower and if left unattended will rapidly dominate turf. It can be found in almost every turf and landscape setting during the summer months if not properly managed.
What is the crabgrass life cycle?
Crabgrass germinates every spring when soil temperatures reach 55 degrees for 2-3 consecutive days. Typically, this occurs in central Oklahoma during the first week of March. This year, soil temperatures are lagging with a current temperature of 50 degrees in central Oklahoma. Last year, crabgrass germination started the last week of February. During late spring and summer, crabgrass grows faster than turf grass and thrives under stress conditions of drought, heat. and low soil fertility — when turf is struggling. Crabgrass dies in the fall after the first hard frost. But before it dies, one mature crabgrass will produce thousands of seeds.
Crabgrass seedling
Early Summer Crabgrass
Mid-Summer Crabgrass
What is the best way to control crabgrass?
Prevention is the key to crabgrass control. A pre-emergent herbicide must be applied before soil temperatures reach the magical 55 degrees. If Forsythia is blooming, it is a clue that crabgrass has started to germinate. In addition to applying a pre-emergent, thick turf development is the key to reducing your exposure to crabgrass. Sunlight is required for crabgrass to germinate and a thick turf will limit the amount of light reaching the soil surface. A good turf maintenance program during the season consisting of regularly mowing, correct amounts of water, timely fertilizer, and annual aeration will produce a think lawn that is less susceptible to crabgrass invasion the next spring.
Will one pre-emergent application be enough?
Pre-emergent herbicides work by creating a barrier over the soil surface. The barrier gradually weakens over the season from foot traffic, mowing and periods of heavy rain. The edges of the lawn are the first to breakdown. Additionally, crabgrass will continue to germinate throughout the season. It is recommended that a second application be made in April through May for season long prevention.
If crabgrass is only a warm season weed, then what are the weeds in lawns now?
Just like crabgrass is a summer annual weed, there are also winter annual weeds. The most popular winter annual weed is poa anna. It is a cool season grassy weed that first germinates in early fall about the time we get our first few cool nights. To have a clean lawn coming out of winter and going into spring, two fall pre-emergent applications need to be put on your lawn – one in early fall and one in late fall.
If you haven’t put a pre-emergent on your lawn yet this spring, is it too late?
This year, because of the cooler weather it isn’t too late. But, you must get it done very soon! Also, it is never too late to start preventing weeds. Weeds are always germinating. Even if you are late with the application, it is better than not doing it at all. Additionally, the best pre-emergent herbicides will control annual weeds in the first stage of growth. Always use a quality product or service for the best results.
The Best News About Crabgrass
If you are a subscriber to a Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Program, either the 7-Step Weed Control & Fertilizer or the 4-Step Weed Control Only, you have already had your 1st Pre-emergent Application to prevent crabgrass this year!
If you are not a subscriber to a Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Program, please contact us. We want to make sure you receive timely pre-emergent herbicides to stop weeds before they start wreaking havoc on your lawn. Preventing weeds is much easier on your lawn than trying to control them after they are up and growing. Once weeds take root harsher products must be used that may slow turf development.
If you have questions or would like additional information about crabgrass and how to prevent it from taking over your lawn, please contact us at (405)367-3873.
Lorne Hall
Hall|Stewart Lawn + Landscape
Why is a Spring Pre-Emergent So Important?
There are many reasons for weeds. Weeds can be the result of poor growing conditions due to lack of moisture, weeds are typically worse when soil is compacted, and weeds are always more prevalent in thin turf.
But, there is one very important thing that will make the biggest difference in the amount of weeds you have this year – the early spring pre-emergent lawn care application.
Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape has been actively applying the early Spring Pre-Emergent for the past few weeks. Our goal is to make sure all of our clients have taken the necessary step to prevent weeds this year.
We get involved in a lot of conversations about weeds and wanted to share with you a few of the most common questions.
Why is the early spring pre-emergent so critical?
Summer annual weeds come up every year. They germinate, grow, reseed, and die all in one year. They can be booth grassy weeds and broadleaf weeds. A quality pre-emergent herbicide will prevent many types of weeds. But, the most aggressive annual grassy weed is crabgrass. If you had a single crabgrass plant in your lawn last year, or your neighbor’s lawn had crabgrass, or your neighbor’s neighbors had crabgrass, there is a real strong chance you will have crabgrass this summer if you do not apply a pre-emergent to your lawn this spring.
Why am I so sure you will have crabgrass if you skip the early spring pre-emergent application?
A single crabgrass plant produces thousands of seeds. Because crabgrass is so prolific, even the nicest lawn in your neighborhood last summer can be full of crabgrass this summer if a pre-emergent is not applied this year.
Mid summer lawn that did not have any pre-emergent in the spring.
Because crabgrass is fast growing and spreads quickly, it can have a dominant presence in your lawn by May without a spring pre-emergent.
What is the best timing of the first lawn care application?
With thousands of seeds laying dormant in the soil, as soon as conditions are right, germination will begin. Germination of crabgrass occurs typically in mid March in central Oklahoma. The key determination is soil temperature. When soil temperatures consistently reach 55 degrees germination occurs. This week, soil temperatures in the Oklahoma City area are in the mid-40s. For the best prevention of summer annual weeds, your first lawn care treatment needs to be applied by the end of February.
Will one pre-emergent application per year be enough?
Crabgrass is one of the first annual weeds to germination each spring, but it does not germinate all at once. Germination of seed will continue throughout the summer. Other summer annual grassy weeds such as, goosegrass, foxtail, and sandbur will germinate soon after crabgrass. Knotweed and spurge are summer annual broadleaf weeds that will germinate even later. Summer annuals germinate from mid-March through early summer. Most pre-emergent herbicides will not provide coverage the entire summer growing season. The herbicide creates a blanket over the soil to prevent seeds from germinating. Rain, irrigation, foot traffic, all combine to break down the herbicide. Therefore, full summer control is only obtainable if you repeat the application again in late spring: April-May, approximately 6-12 weeks after the first application.
Does a pre-emergent need to be applied as a liquid or can it be spread as a granular?
Pre-emergent herbicides come in both forms and for the best results the product needs to be applied evenly to the lawn to create a weed barrier. With either product, watering the product into the root zone is important. Always follow directions. When doing it yourself never over apply a pre-emergent as it can stunt root growth.
Why are pre-emergent sprays green?
Actually they are not. Some lawn care companies add dye to their herbicide to use as a marking pattern. We are not a proponent of using a dye. Most pre-emergent herbicides have a light coloring that aid the lawn care professional in applying the product evenly to the surface. We find dyes messy, they give the natural landscape an artificial look, and add an unnecessary chemical to your landscape.
Most importantly, if you have not applied a pre-emergent to your lawn yet this year, please do not delay.
If you need assistance in making sure your lawn is weed free and healthy this season, please call Hall|Stewart Lawn + Landscape at (405)367-3873.
Lorne Hall
