Winter Tree Pruning – Improve Your Landscape Investment

Tree pruning is possibly the most important winter landscape activity.

Proper tree pruning during the early years of a tree is an essential practice for any landscape.

Mature neighborhoods are full of examples of trees that were properly trimmed resulting in assets to the landscape.  In the same neighborhoods, some trees were left untouched leaving to chance if they would add value to the landscape someday.  And other trees were improperly pruned destroying their appeal.   

Trees are too large of an investment to leave their growth to chance.

Another reason for tree trimming is to correct storm damage.  If you live in Oklahoma, it is likely you have had or will have to deal with tree damage due to wind or ice. 

Let’s first cover maintenance pruning of younger trees, then tree trimming techniques, and finally we will tackle restorative pruning concepts to continue to return your trees to their former beauty after they experience storm damage.   

Here are a few things to consider when pruning young trees:

• Spend a few minutes studying the shape of the tree before making any cuts.  Have a plan of what needs to be accomplished before making your first cut.

• Avoid pruning the central leader. If there is competition for the central leader, select the best leader and reduce the size of the competing leaders.  When dual central leaders are allowed to grow, there will be two negative outcomes: the tree will not grow as tall and have more of a rounded top, and the tree will develop a weak top more suspectable to storm damage.

Young trees if not properly trimmed will add little value to the landscape as they mature.

• Prune branches around the perimeter that extend beyond the desired shape.  If it is a species with a central leader, prune the tree to a gentle pyramid shape.  If it is an oval-topped tree, prune any branches that are out of proportion.  If the tree is in a location where southern winds are impacting the shape, reduce the north side of the tree.

• Gradually remove lower branches over the years.  As a tree begins to reach maturity, it is best to be able to walk under the branches with your arm fully extended without touching branches. 

• Remove branches that are too close together on the trunk.  My rule of thumb is for there to be a minimum of one to two hand widths between all branches. 

• Remove vigorous vertical branches.  Known as waterspouts, these branches grow quickly and are weakly wooded.  If not removed, they are the first to go during wind and ice storms.

• Remove downward-growing branches.

• Remove any branches that are larger than the trunk.  If not, weak branching will be the outcome.

• Remove crossing or rubbing branches.

• Remove branches that are growing into the center of the tree.

• Never remove more than 1/3 of the branching system in a single year.  If major pruning is needed to correct a tree, do it over a few years.

A folding hand saw is a great tool for tree pruning.

A good tree cut is located at the branch collar, smooth and straight.

Tree trimming techniques:

• When pruning a branch back to the trunk, prune close to the branch collar. 

• When removing branches over 2” in width use a three-cut method.  Make the first cut 18” above the collar on the underneath side of the limb.  Make the second cut on the top side of the first cut.  Then remove the remaining stub at the branch collar.

• When branch pruning (vs not removing the branch completely at the trunk) make your cut ¼” above a bud.  Select a bud facing the direction you want the branch to grow and make the cut on a diagonal. 

• Should you use tree wound dressing?  There is good research for both using dressing on cuts and not using a wound dressing.  Our experience is tree wounds heal quicker without a dressing, so we tend not to use a dressing.

Most routine tree pruning and minor restorative pruning can be accomplished with these 4 tools.

Lower branches on this Chinese Pistache will be pruned this winter. Goal is to be able to walk around under mature trees and not be able to touch any branches with an outstretched hand.

Good tree pruning removes lower branches in proportion to the size of the tree to avoid lollipop shaped trees.

Before

After

Lower branches were removed. Shape was improved by removing overgrown perimeter branching.

Restorative Tree Pruning:

• Walk around the tree from a distance.  There is a good chance that the tree canopy will need more shaping this year.  If the canopy of the tree is out of balance, make a plan to thin the tree on the heavy side.    

• Before making any cuts, determine the direction you want the branch to grow.  If you need to fill in the middle of the tree, select growth toward the center of the tree.  If you need to develop outward growth, select a branch growing outward.

Our Chinese Pistache one year after heavy ice storm damage destroyed the oval canopy.  Restoration is a multi-year process when a tree is heavily damaged.

• At the point of most restorative cuts, it is best if only one or two branches remain.  If selecting more than one, they need to be at least one hand width apart.   

• For trees that lost a large portion of their canopy two years ago, the disproportionate amount of root system to canopy most likely resulting in an abundance of new branch growth again this year.  Thin out and remove excessive branching, crossing branches, and branches growing into the interior of the canopy.

When selecting two branches to remain it is best if they are at least one hand width apart.

With less canopy to support our Chinese Pistache has produced a lot of new branches this year that need to be thinned out.

Three years post-ice storm our Chinese Pistache’s shape has greatly improved after two winters of restorative pruning. One more year of pruning is planned after the Christmas lights come down in January.

Our Chinese Pistache with a wonderful oval canopy before the ice storm in October of 2020.

• If the central leader was damaged two years ago and cuts were made to establish a new central leader, notice how the new central leader is developing.  Remember, it is important to not allow a cluster of new branches to compete for the central leader.  The outcome will not be good in future years in both the health and the appearance of the tree.

After year one of restorative pruning our Chinese Pistache has started to regain its oval canopy.  

If clusters of new branches are allowed to remain these areas will be weak and susceptible to future ice and wind damage.

• Follow the tree trimming techniques listed above.

• Restoring a heavily storm-damaged tree is a commitment to a 2-to-3-year process of evaluating and shaping.  If your trees were damaged in the ice storm three years ago, don’t miss the opportunity to continue restorative pruning this winter.

Experience and knowledge are important for successful tree pruning. 

If you need more information OSU’s Extension Service Fact Sheet HLA-6409,

Or give us a call.  We can help by providing an evaluation of your tree’s health and making an improvement plan.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart

(405)367-3873

P.S. Hall | Stewart will be adding new team members in both office administration and lawn care techs in 2024. If you enjoy helping homeowners have their best lawns, let’s visit very soon — lorne@hallstewart.com.

December Lawn & Landscape Tips

With the hustle and bustle of the holiday season upon us, your lawn and landscape asked us to remind you they would also like to spend a little time with you this month.

Lawn Mowing – Warm-season lawn mowing wrapped up early in November while cool-season lawns still need occasional maintenance.  The more and more nights with temperatures in the 20’s the more fescue lawns will slow down.  Depending on weather conditions, you can expect fescue to put on some growth well into December.  So, if you are a fescue lawn owner, don’t put your mower away just yet. Continue to mow as needed to keep the lawn clean and looking tidy.

Mulch mowing is a great way to manage leaves as long as you do it frequently.

With more and more nights with temperatures in the 20s fescue lawns are slowing down. But, don’t put your mower away too soon. Most Decembers, an occasional mowing is needed to keep them looking their best.

Oak trees are keeping the colors of fall alive with reds and browns.

Leaf Removal – Keeping leaves removed is recommended for all lawns, but critical if you have a cool-season lawn.  If you remove leaves regularly, you will find mulch mowing them back into the turf is an effective way to handle clean-up.  Fescue will completely die out under leaves.  If you allow leaves to collect in the corners of a fescue lawn over the winter, those areas will be thin to completely bare next spring.   

Remember - fescue lawns need light even in the winter.

Oak trees have been keeping fall color going with red and brown hues.

Fescue will completely die out if you allow leaves to pile up this winter.

Fescue lawns need light. Keep leaves removed regularly.

Monitor rainfall and anytime we receive a 1/2" rain or more. turn your irrigation off for a week.

A best practice is to water as needed throughout the winter. Anytime we go a week without some moisture, pick a nice day and water your lawn and landscape.

Irrigation – Soil moisture, is a critical ingredient for your landscape’s winter survival, and the key determining factor if you should water or not over the winter.  Soil moisture is currently good in the Oklahoma City area thanks to the occasional rains we have received over the past few weeks. 

How can you know the soil moisture?  www.mesonet.org is Oklahoma’s industry-leading website for weather and climate information.   The 1-day Average 2” Fractional Water Index is a good guide to watering decisions. 

Through the winter check the soil moisture regularly and compare the 7-day forecast.  If the soil moisture is low and if there is no moisture forecasted in the coming 7 days, select a nice day to water.  Most importantly, if my soil is dry, and the forecast has days below freezing, water thoroughly before the cold weather arrives. 

Winter damage to our lawn and landscape occurs when the top 3” of soil is dry and temperatures are below freezing.

If you have a rain/freeze sensor on your irrigation system and your system is equipped with freeze protection on the backflow, we recommend setting your system to run one time per week through the winter.  If the temperature is below 35, the sensor will not allow the system to run and if there has been a recent rain, the system will remain off. 

Winter is the best time to for corrective tree pruning.  As leaves drop, inspect your tree canopies and make a plan to prune this winter.

Tree Trim – During winter dormancy, tree trimming is a great practice. As leaves fall and tree canopies are more visible, spend a few minutes analyzing the structure of your trees and start making plans for the next step of corrective pruning.   We will cover tree pruning techniques in detail in the next few weeks.  

With so many varieties of Japanese Maples they add color throughout the fall and into December.

Spring Bulbs –  Mid-November through mid-December is the perfect time to plant spring flowering bulbs. Spring bulbs require extended cold temperatures to produce.  If you procrastinate, you run the chance of not having a good color show next spring.

For a good spring color show bulbs need to be planted in the next couple of weeks.

Oak trees are one of the last trees to change color and then loose their leaves. Most falls you can count on them to add color to the landscape well into December.

Mulch – Another great landscape practice for improving the survivability of your landscape plantings is a fresh layer of mulch.  A 2-3” layer of mulch will provide insulation for your plant roots, retain moisture, and moderate soil temperatures.  We recommend adding a layer of fresh cedar, pine, cypress, or pecan mulch after you do your final leaf clean-up of the season. 

Lawns that did not receive two fall pre-emergent applications are starting to see poa annua, the most prolific winter annual weed, start to germinate in thin turf areas. Fall pre-emergent applications are as equally important as spring pre-emergent applications.

Soil Test – If your lawn, shrubs, or trees often look a little off-color and lack vigor, now would be a great time to check the soil pH and nutrients.  Fill a quart-sized plastic bag with soil from at least six spots in the area of concern.  Take soil from just below the surface.  Remove roots from the soil.  Use a separate bag for soil from your lawn and landscape areas.  Take the soil sample to your local Oklahoma State University County Extension Office. They will test the soil and send you a report for a nominal fee. The Oklahoma County office is located at 2500 NE 63rd St., Oklahoma City, OK 73111.

Weed Control – If you have not applied the second fall/winter pre-emergent and broadleaf weed control to your lawn yet, it is not too late to do so. The goal of this application is to extend the prevention of weeds until the spring pre-emergent is applied. 

The late fall pre-emergent application is timed to keep your lawn clean through the winter.

Tree Planting – Tree farms are harvesting freshly dug trees now.  Trees that are dug and replanted during dormancy have the best chance of survival.  If you are thinking about adding trees to your landscape anytime in the next year, don’t wait till spring or summer, plant this winter.

Even though fescue lawn growth has slowed, as a cool season grass, it typically keep great color through December.

Trees that are dug and replanted during dormancy have the best chance of survival.

Foot Traffic – Avoid walking on frozen grass.  If is particularly damaging to fescue.  Turf areas with winter foot traffic are slow to recover in the spring.

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape has enjoyed being a part of your lawn and landscape this year.

Anytime you need assistance with a lawn or landscape issue, we would love the opportunity to help. 

Our goal is to help you have your best lawn and landscape!

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Thankful v. Grateful

What?  Is this the weekly Hall | Stewart post?

I realize you read this every week for the latest lawn and landscape information and the title appears off subject today.  It is.  You have my permission to go ahead and hit delete now…you won’t hurt my feelings.

This week, Thanksgiving week, had me pondering the difference between ‘being thankful’ vs ‘being grateful’.

I love this time of year.   I believe Thanksgiving may be the best holiday on the calendar.  It isn’t over-commercialized.  It is simple.  It is a break in our busyness to spend time with friends and family and give thanks.

Tuesday morning, at our Hall | Stewart Weekly Huddle, we asked the question “What are you thankful for this year?”

The responses ranged from: “My wife!” to “My family!” to “Our team!” to “My newborn baby boy!” to “Our great customers who we get to help have their best lawns!” 

However, one team member’s response started me thinking more deeply about thankfulness.  Leo said, “I’m thankful for my changed life, my relationship with my Savior, and a life that is on a totally different trajectory than my old life!”

It started me wondering if that was thankfulness or was that gratefulness. 

Is there a difference?

A Google search started.  Conversations ensued.

Thesaurus.com states that in most cases they are viewed as exact synonyms. 

Dictionary.com says they are close synonyms commonly used to mean the same thing.

Exact?  Close? Or is there a difference?

I think there is a difference between thankful and grateful.

For me, being thankful is an event.  Thankful is when someone does something for you.  A gift.  A helpful hand.  A kind word.  It is an acknowledgment of benefits received.

Grateful is something deeper.  It is something richer. Gratefulness is felt in the soul.  Gratitude comes from the heart.  It goes beyond appreciation to a state of being.

I was very thankful to have another Thanksgiving with my mom whose mind has been fading for the past few years. Rarely does it appear she knows who I am anymore, but nonetheless, I was thankful to be with her on Thursday.  I am grateful for her impact on my life and my family.  She always wanted more for us than she had and encouraged us to achieve far more than we ever thought we could achieve.  I am more than thankful for my mom; I have heartfelt gratitude for her.

Another personal example that has me pondering the difference…

A few weeks ago, a DYI home project took a quick turn for the worse resulting in a Saturday afternoon in the emergency room followed by surgery on Monday to put one of my hands back together.  I am deeply thankful for the Integris Baptist Emergency Department doctors, nurses, and staff who practiced their craft so wonderfully that afternoon.  I am also deeply thankful for a skilled surgeon who had the knowledge and experience to know exactly how to fix my damaged hand.  And, the physical therapist who I am spending, and will be spending, way too much time with over the next few weeks, I am tremendously thankful.

But, it is the deepest heartfelt gratefulness I have for my wife who has so patiently woken up to my early schedule every day for the last 5 weeks to help me get ready and tie my shoes.  I am more than thankful for her; I am grateful she is by my side as I heal.

It is gratefulness I feel that my dad was with me when the accident happened, got me to the hospital quickly, and then returned to finish my project in the days that followed.  It is gratefulness I feel for family and friends who called, texted, prayed and showed up to check on Lori during my surgery. It is gratefulness that I feel for my Hall | Stewart partner and team members who stepped up to cover the workload I couldn’t do with my one un-injured hand.

Grateful is a deeper, stronger, more emotional version of thankful.

Thankful is recognition of a transaction.

Grateful is recognition, an acknowledgment of the difference others make in our lives. 

Seth Godin said it well this week in his Thanksgiving Day post, “The magic of gratitude is that it improves everything it touches.”

Gratitude is a state of being.  A position of gratitude changes your perspective.

What are your thoughts?  Are they the same or is there a difference?

(I promise to return to talking about what we know best – lawns and landscapes!)

May your days be filled with a spirit of gratitude!

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart

(405)367-3873

Is Leaf Clean Up Necessary?

Oh, how we love trees!    

In the spring, when they are blooming, we can’t stop telling others how much we love our trees.

In the summer, we talk about how much we love the shade. 

And, for the last few weeks, we have been talking about how much we love the brilliant yellow, red, and orange foliage. 

But, ever since the first freeze two weeks ago, the leaves have been falling.  Suddenly, the beautiful foliage we love we disdain. 

Trees are a love-hate relationship. 

Unfortunately, leaf clean-up is a necessary evil of being a tree lover. 

Weekly mulch mowing leaves is a best practice for keeping your healthy through the fall.

We love the spectacular red maple leaves on our trees. But, as soon as they clutter the lawn, we can’t stand them.

Yellow Cottonwood leaves look great in this Edmond neighborhood this week. But, over the next few weeks mulch mowing leaves will be the best practice in this neighborhood.

Shumard Oak trees are one of the last trees to add color to the fall landscape and also one of the last trees to drop leaves.

Is the only reason we clean up leaves is to have a neat and tidy landscape?

Actually, leaf clean-up is a particularly important part of lawn health.  Why?

Why is it important to clean up leaves when the lawn isn’t growing much and will soon be dormant?

For fescue lawns…

Even though lawn growth is gradually slowing down, root development continues.  Light and air are two critical elements needed for the turf to build strong roots.  Strong roots equal a better lawn next spring. 

For cool-season lawns, allowing leaves to accumulate for more than a week results in thinner turf.  Allowing leaves to become matted on cool-season lawns will result in completely bare areas.  This is important for mature fescue lawns, but especially critical for newly seeded fescue.

Fescue Lawn Recommendation – Continue to maintain fescue lawns weekly as long as leaves are falling and accumulating.

Oak trees are one of the last trees to drop their leaves. Some varieties of oaks actually hold their leaves until new buds emerge in the spring.

The incredible colors of fall are gradually fading into the stress of leaf cleanup.

Unfortunately, soon the brilliant rusty reds and yellows of my Bald Cypress will cover the lawn and patio.

Due to the smallness of the leaf, Elm leaves will create a thick mat if not cleaned up frequently.

When you make leaf clean up a weekly practice, most of the time it is as simple as using your lawn mower to mulch mow the leaves back into the lawn.  Studies show mulch mowing leaves returns nutrients and organic matter back to the soil.

When leaf drop is heavy, raking and removal may be needed.  The goal is to return your lawn condition to the point where air and light can reach the turf blades.  If mulch mowing only results in a heavy layer of smaller leaves, it is time to rake and bag.

Yes, leaf clean-up necessary:

1.     Leaf removal is a matter of lawn health, not just tidiness.

2.     All lawns need air and light to thrive, even in the fall and winter.

3.     Resist the urge to wait until all your leaves have dropped before you clean them up!

Mulch mowing often is a beneficial way to keep leaves cleaned up.

Bald Cypress needles are notorious for creating a dense blanket robbing your lawn of light and air.

For Bermuda lawns… 

It is tempting to let leaves build up on dormant warm-season lawns.  But dormant Bermuda also needs air and light.  Piled-up leaves trap moisture and are prime breeding grounds for disease.  Moist leaves can result in fungal problems.  It is common to find thin, and sometimes bare areas in Bermuda lawns where leaves have been left for extended periods of time.

Bermuda Lawn Recommendation – Even though warm seasons lawns have stopped growing and are going dormant for the season, keeping leaves cleaned up and not allowing them to accumulate around edges and in corners is the best practice.

Leaves piled up in corners are a breeding ground for disease.

Mulching leaves with your mower is very beneficial to your soil.

Allowing leaves to accumulate on your lawn can result in a thinner turf.

A leaf covered lawn will reduce the effectiveness of the last lawn application of the year by limiting the weed preventing herbicide from reaching the soil surface.

Another reason for regular leaf removal is the timing of the last lawn care application of the season – Fall is a critical time to prevent and control weeds and set your lawn up for a great start next spring.  Application effectiveness is reduced when the herbicide can’t reach the target because there is a layer of leaves.

Some the the most dynamic yellow leaves in the metro can be found on the Ginkgo Trees on NW 1st and Classen in front of the old Sunshine Cleaners building.

Don’t allow leaves to accumulate on your lawn edges for days and days. If you do the result will be think edges next spring.

Frequent leaf clean-up this fall will give you a better-looking, healthier lawn next spring and, more importantly, it could prevent you from spending time and money repairing a thin lawn.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Oh, the Colors of Fall!

Plan a walk through a neighborhood with mature trees full of fall color this week.

Who doesn’t love all the colors of fall! 

It’s time to get outdoors! 

Plan a color walk through your favorite neighborhood or park, take a leisurely bike ride through a neighborhood full of mature trees, or take an afternoon drive to southeastern Oklahoma.

Now is the time to take a break from your busyness, get outside, and enjoy the colors of fall.

Yellow leafed Japanese Maples add bright pots of yellow to the fall landscape.

Fall color depends upon a few key elements:

1.     Abundant moisture during the growing season.

The best fall color follows a summer of consistent moisture.  When we have a below-normal, dry summer, you can expect to see a slightly less dynamic fall color.  

2.     Average to late freeze.

The average first freeze in central Oklahoma occurs during the first few days of November.  This year it came on October 30th.  When it comes to the first fall freeze, the best fall color occurs when the first freeze comes late, and it is a light freeze.  

3.     Cool fall nights with plenty of sunshine. 

The more average cool fall nights, nights above freezing, the better the fall color.  Also, the more sunny days versus cloudy days, the more dynamic the colors will be.  

4.     Low winds.

Once the leaves make the change to brilliant yellows, oranges, and reds, the last thing we want is a gusty day stripping the trees.  Once leaves start to turn, low to no wind days will extend the color.

Based on these four elements, I would say we are having an average to slightly above-average fall color display this year.  A dry late summer didn’t help.  Three mornings with temperatures in the mid-20s didn’t help.  But, we are having plenty of cool nights and sunshiny days.  And, we haven’t had too many windy days.

Just a reminder to keep the leaves cleaned up often. Fescue needs light!

I always look forward to seeing this maple in Mesta Park every fall.

Nandina is an old time plant that showers us with large berry clusters followed by bright orange, red leaves as the fall progresses.

Peak fall color for central Oklahoma starts the last week of October

and extends through the first two weeks of November.

Pyracantha

What is your favorite fall tree or shrub?

What is mine? The one that just got my attention!  Every day I have a new favorite. 

But, here are a few that I always look forward to seeing in the fall landscape:

Boston Ivy is a deciduous vine that turns bright red in the fall.

Autumn Blaze Maples are the first maples to announce it is fall.

Looking for a place to take leisurely fall color bike ride?  Start on NW 14th in Heritage Hills and discover this Autumn Blaze Maple.

Autumn Blaze Maple. This was the first bright red tree I saw this fall.

Autumn Blaze Maple – One of the first trees to start the show with bright orange to red foliage. I’m sure you have noticed them.  Often the heat of late summer will leave Maples with tattered leaves and less fall color, which may be the case this year. Maples do best when they have protection from late evening, radiant heat.  This explains why you will find some of the brightest reds on maples planted amongst other large trees.

Chinese Pistache is a dependable medium sized tree that is tolerate of a wide range of planting locations.

Possibly the most dynamic Chinese Pistache I have seen this year.

Just to show you how much the colors of Chinese Pistache can very. A half block from the dynamic red one was this one with bright orange and yellow leaves.

The Chinese Pistache at NW 18th and Shartel Avenue during the fall of 2020.

Chinese Pistache – A round-top, medium-sized tree, with incredible colors of yellow, orange, and red in the fall. The best Chinese Pistache are so electric you would think they are plugged in. The only downside to a Chinese Pistache is inconsistency. Not everyone will have dynamic color. We have one in our front lawn, the color is good, but not as brilliant as others. The curve at NW 18th & Shartel Ave is planted with ones with dynamic red color most falls.

There is something about the way the late afternoon fall sun hits the changing leaves of a bald cypress that makes you stop and pause.

Bald Cypress – Known for being the only deciduous needle tree, the bald cypress has a brilliant rusty red color in the fall. It is a large tree, too large for the typical city-sized yard, but if you have a large area, it will not disappoint in the fall. We have one planted near the water and we can count on it consistently putting on a good fall show.  There is something about how the late evening sun hits the color-changing foliage in the fall that causes me to pause for a minute and stare every evening.

Lacebark Elm – A large tree with mottled bark that is not as disease and pest-prone as the traditional elms. You can expect bright yellow leaves for the fall. A favorite variety is the Allee with its vase shape.

October Glory Maple is similar to the Autumn Blaze in growth and color but puts on a color show a couple weeks after the Autumn Blaze

October Glory Maple adds orange-red to red color to the landscape just a little latter than the Autumn Blaze Maple.

October Glory Maple – Another large Maple like the Autumn Blaze in growth and fall color. One difference is the October Glory’s peak color usually comes a couple of weeks later than the Autumn Blaze. While Autumn Blaze is one of the first trees to turn red in the fall, October Glory is one of the last.  Maybe every landscape should have one of each.

Shantung Maple

Shantung Maple is a smaller tree with brilliant golden yellow to orange fall color.

Shantung Maple – A smaller, 20-25’ Maple with yellow to orange to red color. This tree is ideal for planting near power lines, in smaller lawns, or as an accent tree in a larger landscape.

I enjoy the view of our neighbor’s maple trees every fall and I’m so thankful they added them to their landscape!

Caddo Maple – A large, 50-75’ Sugar Maple that has great orange to red fall color. Caddo Maple is a little more suited to our hot west sun than the Autumn Blaze and October Glory.

The reddish browns of Shumard Oak rarely disappoint.

Shumard Oak

Shumard Oak – There are so many great oaks, but this is my favorite. A large, 50-75’ tree with good red fall color. One advantage to the Shumard Oak is it’s more tolerant of our alkaline soils.

Redbud – A smaller tree, famous for being one of the first to flower in the spring, but often overlooked for its bright yellow fall color. The native Eastern Redbud has better fall color than the improved Oklahoma Redbud but can disappoint if the summer has left the leaves tattered.

Ginkgo

Ginkgo – An underused, 40-60’ tree that does very well in street plantings. The Ginkgo has a distinct, fan shaped, irregularly notched leaf that could lay claim to the best yellow fall color.

Silhouette Sweetgum are a great tree for adding bright fall color to small spaces.

Sweetgum may be the most perfect tree with star-shaped dark green leaves that turn wonderful shades of yellow, orange, red, and purple lasting late into the fall. (Perfect except for those annoying spiky seed balls that litter your lawn.)

Ginkgo

Slender Sihouette Sweetgum is columnar shaped and great for tight spaces and crest a wonderful vertical accent.

Sweet Gum

Sweet Gum – If it weren’t for the spiny, 1-1.5” seed balls that litter a lawn, this tree would be on every landscape enthusiast’s wish list.  When you see a sweetgum in the fall, it immediately gets your attention because of the multicolored leaves.  The star-shaped leaves turn shades of yellow, orange, red, and purple often persisting late into the fall.  The tree performs well in both wet and dry soils and reaches 50-60’.  The Slender Silhouette variety is a columnar-shaped Sweetgum that reaches 40-50’ but is only 4’ wide.  It is great for tight spaces, small gardens, and any place you want to create a striking vertical accent.  Just like the full-sized tree, it is common for there to be several rich colors on the same tree.

This allee of single trunk Crape Myrtles at the Myriad Gardens is a great example of the fall color Crape Myrtles add to the landscape when we allow them grow to their natural size as trees instead of excessively pruning them every spring into large shrubs.

Ash

Ash – Marshall’s Seedless Ash is a proven variety with dark green foliage and bright yellow fall color.  Ash is known for its tolerance of hot, dry winds and both wet and dry soils, making them well suited for our climate. 

Ash

Crape Myrtles – Our longest blooming landscape plant is too often overlooked for the orange to red fall colors it brings to the landscape.  Incorrectly, Crape Myrtle are pruned into large shrubs, and we rarely get to experience their splendor in the fall as a tree.   When allowed to grow naturally, you find their addition to the fall landscape stunning.

A Dogwood growing in a native area in eastern Oklahoma.

Dogwoods – A rarely planted tree in central Oklahoma that makes a great understory tree in shady areas with dark red fall color. If you have mature trees in your landscape, consider adding a dogwood as an accent. The Tulsa area is blessed with an abundance of fall color from dogwoods.

Euonymus Burning Bush

Burning Bush looks great on groupings or as a single specimen.

Euonymus Burning Bush

Euonymus Burning Bush – A medium to large shrub with a bright red fall color. Like the Chinese Pistache, they can be inconsistent. Also known as Winged Euonymus.  When it is over-pruned, it doesn’t reach its full potential.  When it is left to grow to its natural shape and height, and it has received sufficient moisture through the summer, the fall color is intense and more consistent than any other plant.  It is a great planted as a single specimen, in a grouping, or as a natural hedge.  For smaller landscapes, plant the ‘Compactus’ variety. 

Oakleaf Hydrangea are know for their white flowers in early summer, but with their large burgundy colored leaves also put on a great fall show.

Oakleaf Hydrangeas are often overlooked for their rich red fall color.

Oakleaf Hydrangea

Oakleaf Hydrangea - One of the most underutilized, showy plants available.  Known for magnificent white flowers in the early summer, but it is often overlooked for the rich burgundy color of the large, lobed leaves in the fall.  It prefers moist, rich, well-drained soil and is best planted in shade to partial shade. 

Ornamental grasses can also add brilliant colors to the fall landscape. One of my favorites is Pink Muhly.

Pink Muhly Grass - An upright, slightly arching ornamental grass that produces a soft, airy pink to purple bloom in late September to early November.  Great planted as a single specimen or as a mass planting.

Autumn Sage is a perennial that adds bright pinks to the fall landscape.

Autumn Sage

Autumn Sage - A showy perennial that adds prolific hot pink color to the fall landscape.  Great for hot, sunny locations.

Sumac also adds interest to the fall landscape as an understory plant.

There are several varieties of Sumac each with their own dynamic fall color.

Sumac

Sumac

Sumac - Used as a large shrub or a specimen small tree with great tolerance for dry, poor soils.  Sumac has a bright red fall color.  It is best known for the bright red color it adds to the native landscape, but it deserves to be planted in more landscapes as an understory.

Did you notice the list of great fall color includes more than trees? 

Don’t overlook all the colors shrubs, vines, and perennials add to the fall landscape.  

Get outside!

Maybe you will find a tree or shrub you need to add to your landscape!

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Your Lawn & Landscape Still Needs Moisture… Even During The Off Season!

As the lawn and landscape season winds down there is one very important never-ending task:  Monitoring the weather to make sure your lawn and landscape is receiving enough moisture.

After last week’s 2.5” of rainfall followed by our first freeze this week, the temptation is to turn the irrigation off and roll up the hoses. But, if your lawn and landscape could talk, they would be encouraging you to not cut off the water just yet and be prepared to give them a drink from time to time through the winter.

Most winter plant injury occurs when we receive a harsh cold spell while plant root systems are dry.

Sure, your lawn, trees, shrubs, and flowers don’t need as much water through the winter, but they do need some.  Your landscape needs at least ½” of moisture every two weeks through the winter.

Current Watering Recommendation:

Give your lawn and landscape a good deep soaking every 4-7 days.

Pansies need moisture through the winter to survive and make a strong spring show.

Make it a part of your routine from now until spring to check soil moisture and rainfall amounts at least once a week.  A great source is the Oklahoma Mesonet.  The Oklahoma Mesonet is a world-class network of environmental monitoring stations that consists of 120 stations throughout Oklahoma.

Use this link to check current soil moisture: https://www.mesonet.org/index.php/weather/map/2-inch_fractional_water_index/soil_moisture

Use this link to see the amount of rainfall in the last week: https://www.mesonet.org/index.php/weather/map/7_day_rainfall_accumulation/rainfall

Throughout the off season take advantage of nice, warm, light wind days

and give your lawn and landscape a good soaking.

Evergreens and fescue require more water attention during the winter.

Japanese maples have shallow roots that are susceptible to drying out during the winter.

Fescue and rye lawns will retain more color over the winter if the soil is moist went temperatures below 30 degrees.

Newly sodded lawns, due to a shallow root system, can experience freeze damage if the roots are dry during a winter cold spell.

Finally, all newer landscapes, those installed in the last two years require a little more watering attention over the winter.

Watering Through the Off Season - Monitor the weather.  Pay attention to the amount of rainfall we are receiving.  Anytime we go a week without a good rain or snow cover, pick a warm day and run your system through a cycle.  If you don’t have an irrigation system, pick an enjoyable day, stretch out the hoses and make sure all plant material receives a good soaking.

Pansies are a great winter annual as long as they aren’t bone dry when a cold front arrives.

A dry, windy and cold winter is hard on needle evergreens. Through a dry winter a good deep soaking every other week will help them survive.

Winter watering is particularly critical for evergreen shrubs and trees.  Windy days zap the moisture stored in their leaves making them sensitive to winter injury when we receive a harsh cold snap when they are dry.

Shallow rooted plants, such as: azalea and Japanese maple are also prone to winter injury when they do not receive regular moisture during dormancy.

Plants with shallow root systems, such as Japanese Maples and Azaleas, respond best if they receive at least 1/2” of moisture every 7-10 days throughout the winter.

If you have perennials or winter annuals such as pansies or kale, winter moisture is critical to their performance going into the spring.

Fescue lawns will retain more color in the winter and rebound quicker in the spring if they are not allowed to become bone dry during the winter.

Evergreens need moisture during to winter to keep their foliage healthy.

Set your azaleas up for a successful spring by making sure they have enough moisture this winter.

Snow cover has two benefits: 1. It provides insulation from very cold temperatures by trapping warm soil temperatures. 2. As the snow melts it acts as a good deep soaking for your lawn and landscape.

Consider Upgrading Your System – If your system doesn’t have a rain/freeze sensor, add one. A rain/freeze sensor allows you the ability to set the controller to run once per week and leave it.  If the temperature is below freezing, or if there has been a recent rain, the sensor will interrupt the scheduled cycle.  The benefit is you won’t have to remember to turn your system off when it is too cold, or it has rained.

Another Upgrade to Consider – Install a Rainbird WiFi Link controller and let us control your system for you.  We will monitor the weather and adjust the system through the winter based on the amount of moisture the area has received.

Remember – Most winter plant injuries occur when we receive a harsh cold spell while plant root systems are dry.

Give us a call, or respond to this email, if we can help you with irrigation solutions.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

November Lawn & Landscape Tips

Who doesn’t love Fall in Oklahoma! 

Nights are cool.  Days are pleasant.  Every day trees are adding reds and yellows to the landscape.  What a wonderful time of year!

With the first freeze for central Oklahoma forecasted for this week, warm-season lawns will fade quickly.  While at the same time, cool-season lawns are adding rich greens to the landscape.  Fescue and rye lawns will continue to flourish through November and into December as long as nighttime temperatures stay in the 40s and daytime are in the 50-70s.

The change of seasons also means lawn and landscape tasks are becoming less frequent.

But there are several important activities that need attention in November:

Seasonal Color Planting – If you have not removed your summer color and replaced them with pansies and kale, now is the time to do it.  Assuming the weather forecast for the next few nights, any remaining summer color will be done for the season.  Because soil temperatures stay warm through November, you still have time to plant pansies. Blog: Coming Soon to a Landscape Near You — Fall Seasonal Color!

Now is the perfect time to add pansies to your fall landscape.

Plants that produce berries, such as nandina, add bright colors and interest to the fall and winter landscape.

The bright colors of summer loving annuals will be a faded memory if we receive a freeze this week.

Perennial Tip:  If you have mums in pots this fall, don’t throw them away when they are finished. Instead, add them to your landscape. These mums, used as a perennial, where in pots last fall.

Pyracantha is another fall berrying plant. There are varieties with orange, yellow or red berries.

The blue berries of Hollywood Junipers add interest to the fall and winter landscape.

Spring Bulbs – November through early December is the best time to plant spring flowering bulbs such as daffodils, hyacinths, and tulips. I have never heard anyone in March say they wish they hadn’t planted bulbs last fall. But every year I hear someone say how much they wish they would have taken the time to plant bulbs last fall.   Blog: Plan now. Plant next month. Enjoy next spring!

Lawn Mowing – Warm season lawns, Bermuda and Zoyia, most likely have had their last mowing or will have it this week. But, cool season lawns, fescue and rye, will continue to grow and flourish. Continue to mow fescue and rye on a regular schedule. The best height to maintain your cool season lawn in the fall is around 3”.

Many Bermuda lawns are still green. If we receive a heavy frost before they go dormant, expect to see lawns with leopard type spots.

Autumn Blaze Maples have started adding dynamic reds to the landscape. It is one of the first maples to turn in the fall while the October Glory Maple is one of the last.

Ash trees add bright yellows to the early fall landscape.

Leaf Removal – It is important to keep leaves cleaned up. Allowing them to decay on the lawn promotes fungus and disease. If you have a cool season lawn, it is critical to keep the leaves removed. Fescue and rye need light. Allowing leaves to remain on the lawn for extended periods of time will kill areas of your lawn. My favorite way to remove leaves from my fescue lawn is to mulch mow every 5-7 days. I find that mulching small amounts of leaves back into the lawn improves my soil structure.  I only rake and bag leaves when they are too thick to mulch mow.

A great way to manage leaf clean up is to mulch mow the leaves every 4-5 days.

Weed Control – This month is a good month to control broadleaf weeds in your warm season and establish cool-season lawns. Dandelions and other broadleaves are typically small at this point and easier to kill. If you overseeded your lawn with fescue or rye this fall, do not apply any weed control products until the new grass is well-established and has been mowed a few times.

If you have not applied a pre-emergent to your lawn this fall, please do so as soon as possible. And if you applied a fall pre-emergent in August or September, a second pre-emergent should be applied any time from late October to early December for the best prevention of winter weeds. A clean start next spring is the result of two timely fall applications. Blog: Why a 2nd Pre-Emergent is Important!

Autumn Blaze Maples, one of the first maples to turn in the fall, started adding bright reds to the landscape this week.

Irrigation – In the last week, the metro area received 1.5” to 2” of much needed rainfall.  While we are very thankful for the rainfall, it has been a dry fall, and we are not where we want to be heading into winter.  November is typically one of the driest months of the year. 

Lack of moisture is a major cause of winter damage on trees and shrubs. Particularly, your evergreens need moisture even when the landscape is dormant.

With cooler temperatures and shorter days, you may not need to water as often. But it is too early to stop watering all together.   

This time of year, I will either set my irrigation to run every 4 days or leave it on every other day and turn it off for a few days when we receive at least a ½” rainfall.

If your irrigation backflow device is located below ground, inside your garage/house, or has winter protection (heat tape, insulated bag, and cover) you do not need to winterize your system for the winter. Continue to use the system as needed on nice days throughout the winter.

If your system’s backflow is not protected from freezing temperatures, consider adding heat tape, an insulated bag and cover. This will allow you to protect your landscape investment by watering as needed this winter. You can also take it one step further and install a rain/freeze system that will shut the system off when it is too cold, or we have had rain.

Key Point – Most landscape winter damage occurs when the top few inches of soil are dry when temperatures are below freezing.

Irrigation systems are required to have a backflow device installed to prevent irrigation water from re-entering the city water supply. Without freeze protection, your system needs to be shut down for the winter.

The traditional way to protect your backflow from freezing is to wrap it with heat tape and cover with an insulated bag and mock rock. With freeze protection you can continue to use your system as needed through the winter.

Lawn Fertilizer – Fescue and rye lawns need one more fertilizer application this fall.  Fall is the best time of the year to fertilize cool-season lawns.  Bermuda lawns do not need any more fertilizer this year. A good lawn care program will fertilize cool-season and warm-season turf on a different schedule making sure they each receive fertilizer at the correct times of the season.

If you didn’t prune the spent blooms off your reblooming hydrangeas after they faded, the dried out, spent blooms of late summer turn bright pinkish-red colors in the fall.

Fertilizing Trees and Shrubs – Once your area has received a freeze it is time to apply a good balanced fertilizer to your trees and shrubs. Our soil temperatures remain above 40 degrees most of the winter and plant roots remain active. Because nitrogen leaches from the soil it needs to be replaced. My experience has found that a late fertilizer application to feed the roots will aid the health and beauty of your plants next spring.

Seeding Fescue – The best time to overseed fescue is September through October. If you have not seeded this year and need to, even though we are into November, you can still see some success seeding now. Remember the keys are good seed-to-soil contact and keeping the seed moist until it comes up. With cooler temperatures, you can expect it to take a little longer to see results than the typical two weeks, and depending on temperatures in November and December, the results may not be seen until spring.

One of the great colors of fall comes from an unexpected plant, an ornamental grass - Pink Muhly Grass.

Pyracantha berries add color to the fall landscape.

So, as you can see, your lawn and landscape still need attention through November.  

The best lawns and landscapes are the ones that receive maintenance all the way through to the end of the season.

If you have questions or need help, send us an email, or give us a call.

Lorne Hall

Hall|Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Plan now. Plant next month. Enjoy next spring!

What requires planning now, planting next month, but you don’t get to enjoy until next spring? 

Spring Flowering Bulbs!

Instant gratification is a part of our everyday world.  

Common belief is that if you want it now, you can have it now. 

You can order something online this evening with a good chance it will be on your doorstep tomorrow evening.

If you have problems with deer eating your flowers, plant daffodil bulbs. Daffodils contain a bitter substance that deer won’t eat.

Does delayed gratification still exist?

There may not be a better example of delayed gratification than spring-blooming bulbs. 

If you don’t plan for and plant spring flowering bulbs this fall, Amazon can’t fix it for you next spring! 

The wonderful blooms of tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths cannot be added to the landscape in the spring on a whim. 

The most vibrant colors you will enjoy next spring require planning now and action next month to experience them.

Let’s answer a few questions so you can have dynamic color next spring:

When to plant? Spring-blooming bulbs need to be planted from early November through mid-December.  They are best planted after the first freeze, which in central Oklahoma is typically between October 28 and November.  And, because spring bulbs require winter chilling for successful blooming, it is best to plant them within the first 6 to 8 weeks after the first freeze.  Planting later may greatly diminish your success.

Tulips at the Myriad Gardens.

Daffodils are a spring blooming bulb that is very forgiving of our tight clay soils and are perennials in our area (meaning they will come back year after year).

Where to plant? Bulbs require well-drained, rich, organic soil.  They do not perform well in the native, tight clay soils that dominate central Oklahoma.  All spring-blooming bulbs prefer full sun, but because they grow and bloom while trees are mostly dormant, you can have success planting under trees.  Tulips perform best as far south as USDA Hardiness Zone 6.  If you live in southern Oklahoma, daffodils, and hyacinths are a better choice for spring-blooming bulbs.

How to plant? Bulbs should be planted at a depth of two times their height, or approximately 3-4”.  Shallow planting exposes cool-season bulbs to summer heat.  Plant with the rounded end down and the pointed end up.  Bulbs do not need to be fertilized when they are planted.  But, if your soil is not rich in organic material, I recommend mixing in compost when planting.

Tulip colors are nearly limitless. A great local show of tulip colors is the Myriad Gardens. Pencil in a date on your calendar for next spring to check them out.

Spring bulbs have a dynamic impact when planted in mass.

Are spring blooming bulbs annuals or perennials?  Tulips in central Oklahoma are best used as an annual - meaning you will want to replant them every fall.  You will have some repeat blooming the first year or two, but they diminish in results each year.  If you don’t replant every fall, plan on replanting at least every two to three years.  Our tight soils and warm summer soils are not ideal for bulbs to act as perennials.  Daffodils and hyacinths are much more forgiving of our soils and can perform well as perennials.  One key to improving the perennial nature of bulbs is to never plant over the bulbs.  This creates problems for me as I typically use bulbs in my annual color areas.  I always treat bulbs as annuals and replant each year. 

One of the best tulip displays every spring is the Myriad Gardens. Go ahead and set a reminder in your phone to take a tulip walk in March 2024.

Can I dig and store bulbs over the summer?  Yes.  Lift the bulbs from the soil after the foliage has completely turned brown using a pitchfork. Dust off as much soil as possible.  Store in a cool, dry place for the summer.

Hyacinths are known for their adding a burst of purple, blue and pink tones to the late winter and early spring landscape.

When do they bloom?  Hyacinths will bloom first in late winter to early spring.  Daffodils bloom next in early spring.  Tulips come in three bloom periods – early, mid, and late spring.  Early spring tulips bloom at the same time as daffodils. The danger with early spring bloomers is the chance their delicate pedals will be short-lived due to a late freeze.  Late-blooming tulips also run the risk of a short bloom period because a few windy and warm days will put an early end to the show.  I try to use mid-spring blooming varieties as much as possible, or if the area I am planting is large, I will plant tulips from each bloom period to extend the color show.

What colors are available?  Hyacinths come in bluish-purple, white, buttery-yellow, soft blue, and fuchsia.  Daffodils are traditionally white and yellow, but you will find shades of orange, pink, and cream.  For tulips, the varieties and colors are nearly endless with new kinds arriving every year.  I have tried many varieties and colors over the years, but I’m a traditionalist when it comes to tulips.  It is really hard to beat a Darwin Hybrid tulip.  Darwin Hybrids are mid-spring bloomers that come in many colors and are known for big blooms.  They also are one of the best at returning in years two and three if you want to use them as a perennial.    

Are bulbs deer and rodent-proof?  If you have problems with deer munching on your flowers, consider planting daffodil bulbs.  Daffodils are deer and rodent-proof because they contain a bitter substance called lycorine that mammals won’t eat.

A great site to view all the colors of hyacinths, daffodils, and tulips is www.colorblends.com.  They are strictly a wholesale supplier, but their website is an endless source for bulb information, planting tips, and design ideas. 

Start planning now.

Be ready to plant in November.

Enjoy next spring!

You will never regret planning ahead and planting spring flowering bulbs!

Lorne Hall

Hall|Stewart Lawn + Landscape

405.367.3873

Fall Fertilizer Needs: Bermuda vs Fescue

One of the great things about Oklahoma is that we live in the transition zone.

What is the transition zone?

The transition zone is an area from northern Kansas to the Oklahoma-Texas border where you can grow both cool-season and warm-season turfgrasses.  The transition zone can experience both hot summers and cold winters, often making it hard to decide between a warm-season lawn (Bermuda or Zoysia) or a cool-season lawn (fescue). 

Why is that a good thing?  Because we can successfully grow both warm season and cool season turfgrasses.

The most common turf in Oklahoma is Bermuda. 

But, fescue, commonly thought of as only a shade grass, continues to increase in popularity as both a turfgrass suitable for shade and for full sun areas as well.   It is now very common to find Bermuda lawns with at least some fescue. 

Also, more and more lawn owners are realizing that fescue is more than a shade grass, it is a cool-season grass that can grow in full sun.

But, that can be a problem.  You have to think very differently about how you care for a fescue lawn versus a Bermuda lawn.  

Problem - Fescue won’t thrive, it will actually struggle to survive if it is fertilized like Bermuda.  And, the same is true for Bermuda.  Fertilize Bermuda like fescue and the result will be a thin, weak lawn.

Fertilizing cool-season lawns versus warm-season lawns requires a paradigm shift. 

While Bermuda is approaching the end of its season, fescue is starting its season.   

Let’s look at the differences.

Bermuda lawns are ending a season and need a low nitrogen, high potassium fertilizer to strengthen roots for the winter.

Spring Dead Spot is a disease that impacts bermuda lawns in the spring as the lawn is coming out of dormancy. One of the catalyst is heavy nitrogen applications in October applied in an effort to keep a warm season lawn green and active late into the fall.

Fall Fertilizer Applications:

Bermuda and Zoysia (Warm Season) –

Warm-season grasses are at the end of their growing season.  In October and November, warm-season lawns don’t require nitrogen.  With shorter days, cooler days, and nights, and the decrease in soil temperature, growth slows, and turf color fades. 

Heavy nitrogen fertilizer during October in an effort to maintain color longer into the fall is harmful for Bermuda and a catalyst for Spring Dead Spot Disease. 

The chances of having Spring Dead Spot Disease next year increases when nitrogen fertilizer is applied to a Bermuda lawn in the last 4-5 weeks before the first freeze, which in central Oklahoma is typically the first week of November. 

So, if you are thinking your Bermuda lawn needs one more shot of nitrogen before the end of the season, don’t do it.  There is a good chance you are doing more harm than good.

Bermuda, a warm season turfgrass,, performs best when fertilized with higher nitrogen during the summer month and low nitrogen fertilizer in the fall.

With cooler night time temperatures and shorter days, Bermuda lawns are slowing down. Resist the urgent to try keep them green and growing with high nitrogen fertilizer this month.

Because bermuda starts to thin out when it receives less than 6 hours of direct sunlight it is common to see lawns with both bermuda and fescue. The problem is you try to fertilize them the same, one will flourish and the other will struggle.

Fescue –

Fall is the beginning of a new season for fescue. 

As temperatures begin to cool in September, fescue lawns start regaining color, thicken, and actively growing.  

For fescue, fall is the same as spring is for Bermuda. 

In April and May, as soil temperatures warm and Bermuda starts to grow, a higher nitrogen fertilizer is important.   Again, fall for fescue is just like spring for Bermuda.  Nitrogen, the first number on the fertilizer bag, helps thicken fescue, encourages new growth, and adds a deep rich color to the lawn. 

Fall fertilizer applications on fescue will result in a healthier, thicker lawn.   And don’t forget, a dense healthy lawn is the best defense against weeds.

A fertilizer application with at least 25% nitrogen to start the fescue growing season is important.

Newly seeded fescue lawns benefit from a fertilizer application anytime within the first 4 weeks after seeding.

The fertilizer differences continue throughout the year.  Between now and next May, fescue performs best if it receives 4 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. 

Bermuda lawns are at their best when they receive their nitrogen between spring green-up in April and the end of September. 

In early summer, while Bermuda needs high nitrogen fertilizer the only fertilizer needed for fescue is a low nitrogen, high potassium fertilizer to strengthen roots headed into the summer heat, similar to only fertilizer needs of Bermuda heading into the winter cold.

Fescue lawns are start a new season every fall. A high nitrogen fertilizer application now will increase color and turf density.

Fescue can be grown in full sun but it requires a very different fertilizer schedule compared to bermuda.

For a successful, fescue lawn, you have to think backward from a Bermuda lawn.

For a successful Bermuda lawn, you must think backward from a fescue lawn.

You can’t fertilize them both the same way and expect them both to respond the same way.

The Good News –

If you subscribe to Hall | Stewart’s 7-Step Lawn Care Program, whether you have Bermuda, Zoysia, fescue, or a combination of turfgrasses, we will make sure each type is receiving the correct fertilizer based on the current season and growing conditions.  Our program recognizes that warm-season grasses and cool-season grasses have very different fertilization timing and needs.

If you have a overseeded fescue or are planning to this fall, don’t skip a fertilizer application. New seed grows rapidly and needs plenty of nutrition.

A healthy, thick and deep green fescue lawn next spring is easier to achieve with when a lawn receives the correct fall fertilizer applications.

Let’s cover one more misconception about fescue in the fall: 

Myth - If you are seeding fescue in the fall, it should not receive any lawn care applications. 

Not true…

Fact - Fertilizer applications are not only very important for the existing fescue, but it also plays a critical role in the establishment of new seed. 

Yes, if you are seeding you should not apply a pre-emergent herbicide until the seed has come up and the lawn has been mowed 2 or 3 times. 

But, fertilizer anytime within the first 4 weeks of seeding will provide the seed the nourishment it needs as the new seedlings germinate and begin to grow rapidly.

The challenge for lawns with both warm season and cool season turf is they require the exact opposite timing of fertilizer applications for them both to thrive.

Summary:

Bermuda lawns benefit from receiving their last high-nitrogen fertilizer application before the end of September.

Fescue lawns are starting a new season and require a high-nitrogen fertilizer as they regain color, thicken, and grow.

Both are important.

For the best lawn, it is important to know your turf type and fertilize at the correct time of the year.

If you need have questions or need help understanding the fertilizer needs of your lawn, we would love to help.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

October Lawn & Landscape Tips

October = Fall…right?   

Fall?   The official first day of fall came and went and the daily high temperature didn’t get the memo.  (Yes, I used the exact same sentence in last year’s October Lawn and Landscape Tips!)

Higher-than-average temperatures aren’t your lawn and landscape’s biggest concern.  The lack of moisture is a big problem!  (Again, a repeat line from 2022!)

The September average monthly rainfall in the Oklahoma City area is 4”, typically our 3rd wettest month.   This year most of the metro has received 2” or less. 

You are looking forward to Fall and so is your lawn and landscape!  Cooler nights.  Cooler days.  And, yes, more moisture.

Fall is an important time in the landscape.  Much of your lawn and landscape success next season is dependent on what you do this fall.

Here are a few things to stay focused on during October:

With the abnormally dry September, take time to inspect shrubs. Shrubs planted this year, such as this Little Limelight Hydrangea, may need an extra deep soaking.

Watering – If you have completely stopped watering, you stopped too early.  Your lawn and landscape require at least 1” of moisture every week through the fall. 

Moisture is important for plants as we head into the winter.  Don’t allow your landscape to experience drought stress now. 

Because day length is shorter, the sun angle is lower, and temperatures are cooler in October, deep soaking every 4 days for established lawns and landscapes is the best practice.  Newly planted fall seasonal color or new landscape plantings will need to be watered more often.     

If you need more information on watering see our article from September 10, Fall Irrigation Changes Coming Soon!

One of the best practices for your lawn and landscape this fall is to continue to water for long periods just like you do in the summer but reduce how often you water. Shallow rooted landscapes are often the result of shallow, frequent watering.  Healthy, deep-rooted landscapes are the result of deep, infrequent watering.

Overseeding – September and October are the best time of the year to establish Fescue from seed.  This year, due to warmer temperatures, many have waited to seed their fescue.  Even if temperatures are above normal, if you have not overseeded your fescue areas yet, now is the time to get it done.    October seeded Fescue will have time to germinate and mature before we receive our first freeze in late November or early December.   

Remember, the keys to successful seeding are good seed-soil contact and keeping the seed consistently moist until it germinates.

Most disappointment with overseeding is due to not keeping the seed consistently moist for two weeks until it germinates.  The worst thing for new seed is for the seed to be moist, then dry out, then moist, and then dry out again.  Pay extra attention to lawn edges where the soil dries quicker, and water coverage may not be perfect.

Lawns that have already been overseeded and have been kept consistently moist for at least two weeks are flourishing, even though it has been warmer than normal.  However, lawns that have not been kept moist or have uneven water distribution have areas that are lagging.  If you have areas that are struggling to germinate, supplemental watering in those areas will get the seed germinating. 

For more information on overseeding, visit our article from September 3, Four Common Ways to Fail at Establishing Fescue.

This fescue lawn was overseeded 2 weeks ago. The lawn was kept consistently moist resulting in successful germination. The lawn is watered with rotor-type heads on 25-30’ spacing which ran for approximately 10 mins 3x per day since seeding.

Newly seeded fescue 14 days after germination.

Oak Leak Hydrangeas are also known to brighten the October landscape with hues of red.

This fescue lawn was overseeded the first week of September. The area is watered with spray-type heads on 12-15’ centers. The system was set to run at 4:00 AM, 10:00 AM & 4:00 PM, 4 minutes per zone, daily for two weeks. Successful seeding in early September is less about the afternoon temperature and more about consistent moisture.

Fescue two weeks after being overseeded.

As I have been making our customary two-to-three-week follow-up visits after overseeding, I have witnessed the impact of not keeping the seed consistently moist.

Results on lawns seeded the same day in the same neighborhoods vary greatly depending on if they are kept moist or allowed to dry out between watering.

Bermuda Lawn Maintenance – As cooler nights arrive, and days continue to get shorter, warm season lawn growth will slow in October resulting in fewer cuttings in October.  

Avoid scalping the lawn short to finish off the season.  Anytime grass is scalped the plant uses nutrients stored in the roots to produce new leaf blades.  Scalping in the fall will result in a weaker root system going into winter.   Leaving your Bermuda lawn at 2” to 2.5” during the dormant season gives your lawn a layer of protection against extreme cold temperatures and weed germination.

It’s hard to beat the deep rich greens of fescue in October!

Japanese Maples return to bright red this month.

Fall is the best time to add shrubs. Consider adding shrubs that add color to the fall landscape, such as Burning Bush.

Lawn Fertilizer – Fertilize cool-season lawns with a high-nitrogen fertilizer this month.  Fall is the best time to feed fescue. 

If you have a Bermuda lawn, put away the high-nitrogen fertilizer for the season.  Even though soil temperatures are still warm enough to promote growth and add color for Bermuda lawns, late nitrogen applications are considered a causal agent in the promotion of spring dead spot.

Fescue Lawn Maintenance – Fescue thrives when nighttime temperatures are cooler and day length is shorter.   

The beauty of fescue in the Fall is unsurpassed by any other turf grass.  Mow regularly.  Avoid cutting more than 1/3 of the leaf blade off each time you mow. 

One of the strongest landscape statements you can make is

achieved with a well-maintained fescue lawn in the fall.

Don’t cut off Endless Summer Hydrangea blossoms.  They will turn a vibrant pink later this month.

Bald Cypress turn a beautiful rusty red in October.

Turf Weed Control – Lawns need two fall pre-emergent applications.  If you have not applied the first fall pre-emergent yet, please do so as soon as possible.  For the best prevention of fall and winter weeds the first application before soil temperatures consistently drop into the 60s.  The current 3-day average soil temperature in the Oklahoma City metro is 75.

October through early December, a second, winter pre-emergent needs to be applied to keep your lawn weed-free until next spring. 

Fall is also a great time to control many broadleaf weeds in warm-season turf and established cool-season turf. 

If you seeded your fescue this fall, wait until the new grass is up, actively growing, and has been mowed a few times before you apply any pre-emergent herbicides. 

The best way to have a clean lawn next spring is to apply two fall

pre-emergent applications this fall, one early and one late.

Spring Dead Spot Management – Spring dead spot is a common disease of bermuda lawns.  Spring dead spot shows up in lawns in the spring as lawns are greening up.  If you have experienced this problem, a fungicide treatment may help stop the spread of the disease.  Now is the time to make an application.  A second application 30 days later will result in better control than a single fall application. 

Spring dead spot damage is noticeable in the spring. If you have experienced this disease, now is the time to treat with a fungicide to stop the spread of the disease.

Have you seen all the monarchs this week?  If your landscape has lantana, there is a good chance monarchs are checking your landscape out.

Maples are one of the first trees to celebrate fall.

Tree and Shrub Fertilizer – Do not fertilize trees and shrubs in October.  Fertilizing now can encourage new growth that will not have an opportunity to harden off before the first freeze, which may result in plant damage.    Wait to fertilize after we have received our first heavy frost or light freeze.

Over the next few weeks Bald Cypress will add rusty orange shades to the landscape.

Seasonal Color – Remove your summer annuals and replace with pansies, kale, and mums for great fall color this month.  Pansies love the cool weather.  Not only will they provide great color this fall, but if they are not allowed to dry out during the coldest periods of winter, they will offer a wonderful blast of color next March and April.   

We covered fall seasonal color in more detail in our September 17, article, Coming Soon to a Landscape Near You – Fall Seasonal Color.  

October is the month to remove your summer annual color color and replace with pansies.

Nandina and many other shrubs add bright red berries to the landscape during the fall.

I’m looking forward to the bright October red of Boston Ivy.

Fall seasonal color change.

An unexpected fall color is the bright plumes of Pink Muhly Grass.

This has been a great summer for lantana.  Hot & dry!

Landscape Plantings – Fall is the best time to plant most container-grown trees and shrubs.  Because soil temperatures remain warm long after the days turn cooler, materials planted in the fall develop strong roots before the following summer heat arrives. 

Often late spring and summer planted container materials don’t develop roots till the following summer. 

Fall-planted materials can gain an entire year of development over plants installed in the spring and summer.  Wait to plant ball and burlapped trees until after the first freeze if possible. 

Shillouette Sweetgum, a great tree for small spaces, will put on a great show late in October.

The last few days nearly every lawn in an area with native areas close by has damage from an armadillo, possum or skunk. Their native areas are void of food due to the drought. A healthy lawn is the perfect place for them to forage for food.

I’m confident Fall will arrive, temperatures will drop, trees will change, and we will all be in awe of fall colors. 

Don’t lose your focus on good lawn and landscape practices as the season slows down.  Your efforts this month not only will reward you now but will also set your lawn and landscape up for a great spring.

Now, go spend time outside!   

If you have questions or need help with any lawn and landscape needs, give us a call. 

Lorne Hall

Hall|Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Armadillo Turf Damage – Last September and October our clients had damage caused by animals foraging for food.  This year, although it isn’t as widespread, again we are seeing turf damage caused by armadillos, skunks, and possums. 

Anytime we experience a dry late summer and early fall their food sources in native areas diminish.  If you live near wooded areas, creeks, or lakes, there is a chance you or your neighbors have experienced damage.

Armadillos are attracted to lawns because the soil is moist, easy to forage in, and contains food.  Grubs, worms, and almost any insect is a food source.  Once they find a good place to find food, they return time and time again.

The damage is mostly aesthetic and a nuisance.  Bermuda lawns recover quickly.  But, for fescue lawns recovery is slow.

If you are experiencing turf damage the primary control is trapping.  You can treat your lawn with an insecticide to remove their food source, but you are also removing beneficial insects.  If you have a history of grub activity or are seeing signs of grub damage, then a treatment is recommended.  But, because armadillos return to areas where they have found food if you apply an insecticide after they have damaged your lawn, there is a good chance they will come foraging again.

Home remedy treatments include cloves of crushed garlic or cayenne powder.  Armadillos have a strong sense of smell and are repelled by strong smells.  There are also armadillo repellents available.  Home remedies and repellents require you to treat the area frequently, if not nightly, for them to be effective.

For more information, see this Fact Sheet Publication from Oklahoma State University, Dealing with Armadillos | Oklahoma State University (okstate.edu)

Why a second Fall Pre-emergent is important

With yesterday as the official first day of Fall, is there anything better to discuss this morning than Fall Pre-Emergent Applications?  More specifically…Why your lawn needs a second fall pre-emergent!

What is the goal of fall pre-emergent herbicides?  The goal is to prevent winter annual weeds from germinating in your lawn this fall and over the winter.  The goal is to have a clean, weed-free lawn throughout the winter and heading into the spring.    

The most common winter annual weeds include henbit, chickweed, and poa annua.  Each one of these have the ability to ruin the appearance of your lawn this winter and next spring if you skip fall pre-emergent applications. 

Of the three most common winter annual weeds, poa annua is the most problematic. 

Poa annua, commonly known as annual bluegrass, is the world’s most widespread weed.

Henbit is a winter annual broadleaf weed that germinates in the fall. Without fall pre-emergent applications you will have a carpet of weeds with purple flowers next March.

Annual bluegrass is a low-growing, lime-green, clumping, grassy weed with small white flowers.  It is very noticeable in dormant Bermuda grass in late winter through the spring. 

Poa annua begins to germinate when we have our first fall cool spell and there is an abundance of moisture.  When nighttime temperatures drop into the low 60s and daytime temperatures stay under 85 degrees, annual bluegrass begins to germinate. (Typically, late September to early October). Optimal germination occurs once soil temperatures stay below 70 degrees for 4 consecutive days.  (Commonly occurs by mid-October).  The rest of the fall, winter, and spring, germination will continue making the poa annua a several month-long battle.

Best Practices:

A.    Apply the first round of fall pre-emergent herbicide by early October.

B.     Apply the second round of fall pre-emergent herbicide 6-8 weeks later.

Poa annua thrives in thin turf. The best defense for prevention is to develop a healthy turf.

Poa Annua in Warm Season Turf (Bermuda & Zoysia) is most troublesome during the winter when poa annua is growing and seeding heavily, and turf is dormant.  During the winter it does not have to compete with warm-season turf for light, water, and nutrients which allows it to spread quickly in untreated lawns.   

Poa Annua in Cool Season Turf (Fescue & Rye) is not as prolific since the turf is growing and thick in the cool season, but poa annua can still distract from a beautiful turf in the spring when it is producing seed heads.  Maintaining a thick and healthy fescue lawn is important in the prevention of poa annua.  For this reason, overseeding fescue in the fall is an important step in creating a thick turf and eliminating thin spaces ripe for weed germination.

Most concerning is poa annua has been developing an increasing tolerance for many pre and post-emergent herbicides. 

Tolerance is the plant’s ability to survive and reproduce even though it has been treated with a herbicide.

Herbicide resistance in poa annua first developed in Japan in the 1980s with the first occurrence in the US in Mississippi and Tennessee in 2004.

Poa annua is a clumping grassy weed with small white flowers.

Here are a few recommendations on how to best overcome annual bluegrass in your lawn:

Problem - A single fall application of a herbicide is not enough for the prevention of poa annua because germination can occur from September to March.  Also, repeated use of the same herbicide will result in herbicide resistance.  

First Solution – Our application #7, in November to early December, is critical in the control of poa annua.  This application contains a different fall pre-emergent herbicide than is applied in late August through September.  Additionally, we use a herbicide in Application #7 that has post-emergent abilities on poa annua.

Second Solution – Application #1 in January and February contains herbicides for control of poa annua that can only be used on dormant warm-season turf grasses.  Once we reach March control of annual bluegrass is more difficult. 

Poa annua will thrive in thin dormant turf during January and February without effective fall prevention.

Problem – Lawn care application effectiveness is reduced when the pre-emergent herbicide is not watered into the top 1” of the soil.

Solution – Always follow the watering instructions when we do a lawn care application, but especially when the application includes a pre-emergent.  Pre-emergent herbicides are not effective at preventing germination when they remain on the soil surface.  Effectiveness increases if the pre-emergent is watered into the soil.  If you are applying your own pre-emergent herbicides, it is very important you read and follow label directions.

Problem – Unhealthy, thin turf is a breeding ground for poa annua and many other weeds.  Therefore, annual bluegrass is more of a problem in dormant warm-season turf.  Annual bluegrass also prefers compacted soil.

First Solution – Applications during the growing season for warm season turf contain fertilizer that thickens the turf reducing the area for poa annua seeds to germinate and develop in the fall.

Second Solution – Do not cut warm season turf short for the winter.  Maintaining a healthy amount of top growth will inhibit some seeds from reaching the soil surface.  Annual bluegrass is much more troublesome in short cut, warm-season turf during dormancy.

Third Solution – Aeration in the early summer on warm season turf and in the fall on cool season turf will result in a thicker, healthier turf.  Aeration will reduce the compaction and strengthen the root system of your lawn by allowing air, nutrients, and water to reach the root system.

A second fall pre-emergent is an important step in making sure your lawn isn’t full of weeds in the late winter/early spring when the bermuda is dormant.

Maintaining a thick, healthy, properly maintained turf is a critical step in the prevention of weeds.

Heavy reliance on herbicides to control poa annua increases the likelihood that it will develop herbicide resistance particularly if you are relying on a single fall pre-emergent application of the same herbicide year after year. 

In the spring after lawns have greened up, controlling poa annua can be very difficult without damaging the turf.

Without two fall pre-emergent herbicide applications, poa annua will be prolific the next spring when the turf is coming out of dormancy.

Effective prevention of poa annua is the result of two differing fall pre-emergent applications and a healthy turf.

Our goal is to do all we can to strengthen your lawn and prevent winter annual weeds from littering your dormant lawn this winter. 

We need your help in following watering instructions, maintaining proper mowing heights, and adding aeration to your annual services.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Fall Irrigation Changes Coming Soon!

Most of the Oklahoma City metro received less than 1.5” of rain in the past 60 days, not enough. 

Over the same 60 days, our lawn and landscapes have experienced at least 17 days of 100-plus-degree temperatures. 

The last half of the Summer of 2023 has been brutal on our lawns and landscapes. 

Thankfully, it looks like the heat and dryness of summer are about to give way to cooler temperatures and the return of moisture.   

It won’t be long before your lawn and landscape no longer need 1.5” of water per week.

One of the most important things you can do to have a healthy lawn and landscape is to align your watering habits with weather patterns. 

Healthy irrigation is watering based on need. 

Healthy irrigation is infrequent, deep watering.

Unhealthy irrigation is shallow, frequent watering. 

Unhealthy irrigation is setting your irrigation in the spring on an ODD or EVEN setting and leaving it the same until you shut it off in the winter.

From lawns that are not irrigated, cores are shallow with bone dry soil. Sadly, we are finding similar cores in irrigated lawns with watering habits that are only keeping the top 1/4-1/2” moist.

From lawns that have been watered deeply over the last 6-8 weeks, we are able to easily pull deep cores that have adequate soil moisture to withstand the summer heat.

We have visited too many lawns and landscapes over the past few weeks as the heat lingered that were being watered, but they still showed signs of drought stress.  Lawns that when you pulled a soil core, you found soil moist only for the top ¼” to ½” and completely dry soil below.  Lawns with roots only ½” deep.  Lawns that were dependent on daily watering.  Lawns that were being watered in 100-degree heat as if it was still May.

If you want the best lawn and landscape, learning to water based on need is a critical element.

As temperatures cool and day length becomes shorter, your lawn and landscape will need less moisture.

Follow these irrigation tips in through the Fall:

Water Less Often – Don’t reduce the length of time each zone runs.  Instead, water less often.  Set your irrigation to run every 4 days instead of every other day. 

Common question:  “Should I reduce how long my system runs by 50% now?”

Answer: No.  Keep the run time the same and water less often.”

This fall instead of reducing how long a zone runs, water less often for the same amount of time you watered during the summer heat.

Water Deep Not Shallow – Deep watering is important in every season.  Shallow, frequent watering promotes shallow roots, increases weed content, promotes diseases, and reduces cold hardiness. If you can get 1” of water on your lawn in a single watering without causing excessive runoff, water just one time per week.  But, for most of our soils you should plan on watering ½” twice per week.  It is best to saturate the soil each time you water and then allow it time to dry before watering again.

Deep soaking, infrequent watering is an important best practice in developing a healthier, deep rooted lawn even in the fall.

Know How Long You Need To Water – One piece of information that will make a big difference in your watering decisions is knowing how much water your lawn and landscape are receiving each time you run your system.  Take a few minutes to set a few containers around your lawn.  Run your system through a cycle and measure the amount of water in the container.  If your system puts out ½” of water, watering every 4 days this fall is perfect.  If it puts out less, don’t increase how often you water, instead increase the amount of time each zone runs until your containers receive ½”. 

If you have areas of your lawn that have lost color in the heat, checking the amount of water the area is receiving should be your first step.  There is a good chance the area needs a head or nozzle adjustment.

Don’t assume that the way you have always set your irrigation is best.  Do the work.  Find out if your lawn is actually receiving the amount of water it needs to be healthy.

Water Based on Need – The perfect situation would be to inspect your lawn every few days and make watering decisions based on need.  If the grass doesn’t spring back up after walking on it, it is time to water.  If plant leaves start showing signs of wilt, it is time to water.  Another easy test is to take a long screwdriver, if it slides easily into the soil you don’t need to water.  Remember, plants and turf will spring back quickly from slight wilt.  They don’t recover quickly from being over-watered. 

One of the best gifts you can give your lawn and landscape is to take a moment to inspect it each week. 

Just a few minutes looking and asking yourself if everything looks healthy. 

Just a few minutes of being proactive instead of reactive.

Water Based on Weather – Over the next 90 days, the average rainfall in the Oklahoma City area totals 8.5”.  Your lawn and landscape will need approximately 12” over the next 90 days.  There is a good chance your irrigation system will be in the off position some over the next 90 days. 

https://mesonet.org/ is a great weather resource for making water decisions. 

https://www.mesonet.org/index.php/weather/map/2-inch_fractional_water_index/soil_moisture will give you the amount of moisture in the top 2” of the soil.  A reading of 1.0 tells you the soil contains all the moisture it can absorb, and any additional water will run off, a big waste of money and water. 

A rain/freeze sensor will interrupt the watering cycle anytime it rains or if temperatures are below freezing.

A key to successful overseeding this fall is keeping the area tacky moist until the seed germinates.

Tools to Improve Watering Efficiency:

Add A Rain/Freeze Sensor – A sensor will interrupt a run cycle when we have had enough rainfall. A rain/freeze sensor will pay for itself in water savings.

Add a Wi-Fi Link – Several of our customers have installed the Rainbird Wi-Fi Link and allowed us the ability to monitor their irrigation systems.  Daily we survey the Mesonet site for key weather data, make moisture need decisions and adjust systems.  A rain sensor will stop a cycle, but with the Wi-Fi Link we can remotely adjust your system based on current weather data.

With the Rainbird Wi-Fi Link system, we are able to make adjustments to your system based on actual rainfall and moisture readings in your area.

Exception to the Rule – If you are overseeding with fescue this fall, one of the keys to success is keeping the seeded area tacky moist until the seed germinates.  Typically, this takes 10-14 days.  We recommend setting the zones in the seeded areas to run three short cycles (3-5 minutes) per day:  4:00 AM, 10:00 AM, and 4:00 PM.

Tree Watering Tip – Trees planted in the last few years often need more water during periods of heat and drought than your irrigation system will supply.  The goal is to give them 10 gallons per week.  A simple way to ensure they are receiving enough water is to take a 5-gallon bucket and drill 3-5 small holes in the bottom.  Place the bucket near the base of the tree, fill with water and allow the water to slowly soak into the soil.  Repeat twice per week.  (If you are concerned about the way it looks, use this trick overnight.)

Irrigation systems are great tools for maintaining great lawns and landscapes. 

But irrigation systems are not an asset when they are “set and left”

with the same program in all seasons and weather conditions.

If you need help with watering issues, let us know.  We would enjoy helping you manage your landscape’s water needs in the most economical and efficient ways.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

The 4 Most Common Ways to Fail at Establishing Fescue

Summer is fighting hard to stay around as long as it can.  But I have something to say about that, ”Summer, your days are limited.  You will be replaced by fall’s cooler days very soon!”

Even though warmer than normal temperatures are still in the forecast, it is September and time to visit one of the most important lawn care activities of fall – Overseeding Fescue.

As we discussed on August 6th in Time To Evaluate Your Lawn, there are two approaches to using fescue in your lawn:  fescue in shady areas only or a full fescue lawn. 

After evaluating your lawn if you decided to establish fescue for the first time or if you decided you should add more fescue to your already fescue areas, we don’t want you to fail at overseeding.

Take a few minutes to review the four most common ways to fail at establishing fescue. 

Small, shady areas in your lawn where there is low air movement and shade are prime candidates for annual fall seeding with fescue.

---

Fescue the last week of September last fall after overseeding in early September.

Failure to Seed in the Fall

Because fescue is a cool season grass there are two times per year you can plant fescue seed; Fall (September through October) and Spring (March and April). 

But, if you wait until spring to seed fescue, you are seeding at the second-best time and there is an enormous chasm between the establishment of fescue now (the best time) and next spring (the second-best time). 

Spring-seeded fescue will come up great, but it rarely establishes enough root system to make it through the summer heat (fescue’s off-season).  As a younger, weaker plant, spring-seeded fescue is also more susceptible to brown patch disease. 

Fall-seeded fescue has all fall, winter, and spring to establish a root system before enduring the heat of July and August. 

Don’t fail at establishing fescue – seed now, not next spring.

Failure #1 – Seeding fescue in the spring.

Fall seeded fescue is better prepared to withstand the heat of July and August.

Fescue is the best turf grass for areas of your lawn that receive dappled sun. Bermuda needs at least 6 hours per day of direct sun light.

---

Failure to Create Good Seed to Soil Contact

Good seed-to-soil contact is important.  If you sow seed over the existing soil without some preparation, the chance of successful seeding is greatly reduced.  Research shows the percentage of germination decreases dramatically when the seed is just sewn on top of the ground.

You will have success if you start by cutting the existing turf short to remove excess grass.  Then loosen the soil to create good seed-to-soil contact. 

Aeration is the best method to loosen the soil and gain good seed-to-soil contact.  Aerating also gives you the extra benefit of improving the soil structure, increasing water absorption, and developing deeper roots.

Give more attention to bare areas and the edges.  Rough up the areas with a rake.  Rototilling isn’t necessary but breaking the surface of the soil in bare areas is needed. 

Heavy aeration is one of the best ways to create good seed to soil contact when seeding. You also get the added benefit of improved soil conditions from aeration.

In areas that are completely bare, spread a thin layer of peat moss over the surface after seeding to increase the seed-to-soil contact. 

• If overseeding an existing fescue area with a good stand of grass, spread seed at a rate of 5-8 pounds per 1,000 square feet.

• If establishing a new fescue lawn, spread seed at a rate of 10-12 pounds per 1,000 square feet.

  Failure #2 – Just spreading the seed over the top of the ground.

The lawn was being maintained at 3”.

This bermuda lawn is being cut short in preparation of overseeding it with fescue for the first time.

Cutting it to 2” will improve the seed to soil contact and increase the success of the first time overseed.

---

Failure to Buy a Good Fescue Blend

Fescue was first introduced in the US from Europe in the 1800s as a pasture grass.  Kentucky-31 Tall Fescue was developed in the 1940s as an improved pasture grass and introduced to the home turf market in the 1960s by Pennington Seed. 

All seed grown in Oregon is certified. Buy it when possible.

Look for a fescue blend with at least 3 varieties. Blends contain the best varieties and give you more protection against disease and are more heat and drought tolerant.

Bonus tip - some seed companies have seed that is coated with compounds to stimulate growth.

What is the point of the seed history lesson? 

If you are buying Kentucky-31 Tall Fescue, you are buying an 80-year-old product when there are over 300 improved fescue varieties that offer darker green color, narrower blades, and improved tolerance to heat, cold, drought and disease.  Kentucky-31 is marginally acceptable as a lawn grass that tends to become thin and clumpy. 

Improved fescue varieties  are very heat and drought tolerant and can successfully be grown in full sun.

No matter the name on the bag of the seed, any improved variety will outperform Kentucky-31.

We believe using a blend is best when seeding fescue.  Blends are a combination of two or more varieties within the same species, such as two or more fescues in one mix.  Blends are a combination of the best species, tested over time, for the best shade tolerance and disease resistance. The number one problem with fescue is brown patch disease.  The best blends use fescue varieties that show strong resistance to brown patch.  Also, some blends will contain bluegrass and, or rye for an even more vibrant spring color. 

Failure #3 – Buying cheap seed.  You will get what you are pay for… a low-quality turf for years to come.

---

Failure to Keep the Area Tacky Moist Until Seed Germinates

The first three are very important, but the 4th one is critical for success. 

Nothing will hand you a losing hand quicker than not keeping the seed moist.  You can get the first three correct and have complete failure if the seeded area is not kept moist until new grass is visible in the entire area.

Even water distribution is important in keeping the seed tacky moist until it comes up. Check your system. Look for areas where there isn’t complete head to head coverage. The result will be poor germinate around the sprinkler head.

This picture 14 days after seeding demonstrates how critical moisture is to seed germination. The seed in the area where the irrigation does not reach has not germinated at all while the moist areas are nearly fully germinated.

The worst thing you can do is water the seeded area, allow it to dry completely, water again, allow it to dry completely, repeat, repeat, repeat…  After a few times of drying out completely, the seed will no longer be viable. 

For the best success, set your irrigation to run 3 short cycles per day.  Set spray type zones to run 3-5 minutes each time.  Set rotor type zones to run 7-10 minutes each time.  If possible, set the system to run before dawn (4:00 AM), late morning (10:00 AM), and mid-afternoon (4:00 PM). 

You don’t have to have an irrigation system to establish fescue.  You only need to be diligent at watering every morning and every evening. 

Failure #4 – Not keeping the seed tacky moist until it germinates. 

---

Fescue can be grown successfully in Oklahoma.  There are examples of great fescue lawns in every neighborhood, and there will be more and more as our environment becomes more and more shady.

Who should overseed this fall?

• If you have areas of your lawn where the Bermuda has thinned because of shade, you should seed this fall.  Bermuda needs at least 6 hours of direct sunlight for the best performance.  Less than 6 hours of direct sunlight and Bermuda starts to thin.

• If you have fescue areas that have become thin because of brown patch, drought, or insect damage, you should seed this fall.

• If you just want to keep your fescue thick and healthy, you should seed this fall.  Fescue doesn’t spread like Bermuda with runners across the top of the soil.  Fescue spreads through tillering through the soil and putting up new vertical shoots.  Fescue spread is slow and often rare in the transition zone in which we live.  To keep a fescue lawn at its best, adding more seed is common.

• If you want to have a green lawn longer into the fall and earlier in the spring, you should seed this fall.  Fescue is a cool season grass that stays green and active into early December and recovers from the winter in early March.  With a fescue lawn, it is common to have a green lawn for 10 out of 12 months.

Myth: It is difficult to grow fescue.  But, really it isn’t.  Growing fescue does require a different approach to your lawn, but it isn’t difficult when you avoid some of the most common mistakes in establishing fescue. 

Successful fescue lawns are the result of best seeding practices, best cool season turf maintenance practices, and persistence.  But, more importantly, they are a result of different thinking.

---

Bonus Reason: Why Fescue Seeding Fails

Applying a fall pre-emergent before seeding in the area.  The same pre-emergent herbicide that prevents weeds will prevent fescue from germinating.  Wait until the new fescue turf has been mowed 2-3 times before putting a pre-emergent on the lawn.

---

Special Note:   DO NOT use pre-emergent herbicides now in areas that are going to be seeded this fall.

If you need assistance in establishing a fescue lawn or have questions about fescue, give us a call – (405) 367-3873. 

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Time for a Summer Landscape Color Check

Wow!  The heat of summer is hanging on! 

How’s your landscape handling the heat?

A good activity for late August is to create a summer landscape journal.  Grab a few minutes and take pictures of your landscape while it is still hot.  Jot down a few notes about plants that are doing well and the ones that are struggling.

Next spring you will be glad to have the information when you make summer landscape plans. Too often we get excited about a plant that looks great in April and May only to have it disappoint when the heat is on in July and August. 

Great landscapes should include plants that add color and interest in every season, even when temperatures are pushing triple digits.

Here are a few things I have noticed doing well in the heat of late July and August:

The limes and red speckled leaves of Coleus make a nice accent to the yellow flower of Marigolds.

Joseph Coat is a great compliment for the reds of Bronze-Leaf Begonias.

Caladiums behind Impatiens is the perfect combination for shady areas of your landscape.

Annual Summer Seasonal Color

Coleus – Planted for the colorful foliage, it is available in both shade and sun varieties and many colors.  Colors range from limey yellow to red with many that have speckled leaves of yellow, green, and red. 

Joseph Coat – This low-growing, bright yellow-green annual is a great border in full to partial-sun areas.  It is also available in a dark red but is not near as dramatic as the brightness of the lighter variety. 

Lantana – You can’t beat lantana in the heat in full sun.  Some of the more common varieties are New Gold, Dallas Red, and Confetti.  Known for having a bushy growth habit, but there are varieties that are more compact and mounding. 

Lantana, one of the best lovers of summer heat, comes in so many colors that there has to be one perfect for your summer landscape.

The dark reds and lime-red of these Coleus varieties make a great combination.

Penta – Another annual plant that thrives in full sun.  Bright clusters of star-shaped flowers in red, pink, and white look great planted behind Joseph Coat.

Periwinkle – An old traditional annual plant that just keeps performing.  Periwinkle thrives in full sun. White with red center is most common, but also is available in vibrant pinks, reds, and violets.

Strawberry Periwinkle, red Penta, Lemon Zest Lantana, Stain Glass Coleus in front of Black-eyed Susan make for a showy mid-summer landscape.

A great combination for shady areas in the heat of summer is Caladiums and Impatiens.

Periwinkle is a summer loving annual that brightens landscapes with vibrant pinks, reds and whites.

Strawberry Periwinkle with a compliment of Black-Eye Susan

Penta will continue to bloom in full sun to partial shade through the hottest days of summer.

The lime color of Joseph Coat is a great compliment to the rosy pink of Strawberry Periwinkle

Angelonia and Sunpatiens both love summer heat and sun.

Sunpatiens – All the color burst you would expect from impatiens, but they love full sun and heat.  They come in a wide range of colors.  Sunpatiens have become one of my favorite summer annual plants.

Angelonia – It is available in whites, pinks, purples, and blues and very often you will find it mixed. Plant in full to partial sun. 

Sunpatiens and Lantana adding color in the summer sun.

Sunpatiens have become a staple for a splash of color in my summer landscape.

Orange Sunpatiens planted with Joseph Coat and yellow Marigolds.

Caladiums – The large colorful leaves make a great show in full or dappled shade.  You will find them in reds, whites, and pinks. Caladiums are great at adding a burst of color to shady areas of the landscape. 

Impatiens – Another old favorite that is hard to beat in the full shade areas of your landscape.  It is available in many colors.

Caladiums and Impatiens combine to add a splash of color in shady areas.

Perennials

Black-eyed Susan – Grows 2-3’ tall with dark green foliage and vibrant golden-yellow daisy type flowers with a dark brown center.  Blooming starts in late June and continues into August.  Their show in the summer heat is second to no other perennial.

Coneflower – A native prairie plant that puts on a great show through the summer.  Each plant will produce several clusters of 2-4” blooms.  They are available in several colors, but the purple varieties are my favorite.

Coneflower add color to the landscape through the hottest times of the summer.

Using the perennial Black-eyed Susan in your landscape will add a splash of yellow through July and into August.

Black-eyed Susans add bold brilliant flowers in mid-summer to our landscapes.

Coneflower is a perennial that blooms in midsummer.

Crape Myrtle, the longest summer blooming plant become more brilliant as the summer gets hotter.

Maybe the hardiest Hydrangea, Limelight, blooms during the heat of midsummer and they do well in full sun. These are planted around a parking lot on the west side of a building.

Shrubs 

Crape Myrtle – I have a tendency to mention them often, but as our longest-blooming summer shrub and/or tree they are a must-have for your landscape.  Varieties come in dwarf (2-4’), semi-dwarf (up to 8’), and standard (up to 25’).  Colors range from white, pink, purple, and red.  It seems that the hotter the summer, the more brilliant their blooms. 

Limelight Hydrangea – A very hardy hydrangea with unique mid-summer white blooms and a slight hint of green.  They look great planted in mass, as a hedge or as a single specimen.  Also, they do well planted in full sun. 

Bobo Hydrangeas and Black-eyed Susan both thrive in the summer heat.

Hardy Hibiscus – A spectacular summer bloomer that will quickly make a dramatic impact to any landscape.  Look for newer varieties as they have larger flowers.  For most flowers, they need full sun.  They are a great addition to a perennial garden or in front of an evergreen hedge.

Rose of Sharon – An old fashion shrub that deserves to be used more for flowers that appear from July through late summer.  It grows in all soils and does well in hot locations.  Blooms range from dark pink to lavender to white. 

Rose of Sharon is an easy to grow plant that blooms July through last summer.

The large flowers of Hardy Hibiscus are an eye catcher throughout the summer.

Vines 

Trumpet Vine – A favorite is the ‘Madame Galen’ variety. Trumpet-shaped salmon-red flowers throughout the summer for an extra-long blooming season.  Great for covering up fences and climbing arbors.  

Madame Galen Trumpet Vine have an extra long summer blooming season.

Visit public gardens during the hottest times of the summer to see what is doing great in their landscapes for fresh ideas.  The Myriad Gardens, Will Rogers Horticulture Gardens, and OSU’s Botanical Garden are just a few in the area.

Also, don’t be shy.  Stop at that house with the best summer color in your neighborhood and ask what they are growing!

What is putting on a show this summer in your landscape? 

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

The Myriad Garden is a great to visit for landscape ideas. Many of the plants are well marked.

Good Mowing Practices Make a Big Difference!

Great lawns are the result of well-timed lawn care applications, perfect weather conditions, and proper maintenance practices. 

Unfortunately, the impact of good mowing practices is often overlooked. 

When it comes to a great lawn, mowing practices are more important than the fertilizer you use, the weed control applications that are made, and the amount of water used.

 

Getting mowing right comes down to three critical practices: mowing height, mowing frequency, and managing the clippings. 

Mowing Height

Grasses adapt well to various mowing heights, but there is a direct relationship between mowing height and a healthy turf.  As the height of the grass is increased, the root system increases.  As the height is lowered, the root system decreases.  A taller turf yields a healthier root system and a lawn that will withstand more stress.  As the height and density increase, there is less room available for weeds to germinate and grow. 

Optimal cutting heights vary based on the type of grass and the time of year.  All turf grass should start the season low and gradually increase in height over the course of the summer. The goal is to have your lawn at its thickest and tallest height during the heat of summer. 

Fescue is at its best when it is cut between 2.5” to 3.5”. 

Bermuda is best maintained between 1.5” to 2.5”, but Tiff Type Bermuda should be maintained shorter, .5” to 1.5”.

Areas of shade need to be mowed at the maximum height.  The increase in leaf space will allow the plant the best possible chance to survive in the lower light.

A best lawn maintenance practice is to not remove more than 1/3 of the leaf blade when mowing.

Currently I’m trying to maintain my fescue lawn at 3”.  

Yesterday with the fescue reaching over 4” it was time to cut it back to 3”.

Mowing Frequency

Probably the biggest hindrance to having a great lawn is mowing on a schedule, not on need.  Most people mow their lawns once a week during the growing season. We all understand why.  We are busy and our only opportunity to mow is on our day off.  Or, you may have a landscape management company that mows the lawn once per week. 

But, for the absolute best lawn, mow based on the 1/3 rule rather than a set schedule.  For example:  If you desire to maintain your fescue at 3”, you should never let your lawn grow over 4.5”.  If you want to keep your Bermuda lawn at 2”, then you need to mow before it exceeds 3”, not just because it’s Saturday and you always mow on Saturday.

Whenever you remove more than 1/3 of the grass in a single mowing, you are cutting below the plant leaf and into the stem.  If you see yellow or brown areas after you mow, you are cutting more than 1/3.

Turf grass research shows when you cut into the stems the plant responds by using nutrients stored in the root system to regenerate leaves.  This reduces the strength, health, and density of the root system and results in a weaker turf.

What should you do when your lawn becomes too tall, and you need to cut off 50% or more to get back to the desired height?  Cut 1/3 off, wait a couple of days and then cut another 1/3 off.  Repeat until you reclaim the height you desire.

There is no doubt that frequent mowing at a uniform height, whether short or tall, is one of the most important aspects of having a great lawn.

Mowing with a mulching mower will return valuable clippings to the lawn. Grass clippings are mostly water and nitrogen.

Managing the Clippings

When you are able to mow frequently using the 1/3 rule, I recommend not catching the clippings.  Turf grass leaves are 80-90% water and nitrogen.  Grass clippings decompose very quickly and add nutrients back to the turf. 

Not bagging your clippings is a major step in improving your lawn’s quality.

When you bag your clippings, you throw a little of your fertilizer away every time you cut the lawn. 

Most years, I bag my fescue lawn a couple of times per year, the first time each spring and September when I cut the lawn short in preparation for overseeding.  So far this season, I have managed to dodge the rain interruptions, stay on my typical 4-to-5-day mowing habit and my mower’s grass bag has remained in the garage since the first cut of the season.

A common belief is that when you don’t bag your clippings you are increasing thatch buildup.  As long as you are only cutting the leaves and not the stems, thatch will not become a problem. 

Mulch mowing will not only return nutrients to your lawn, it will also return moisture. This picture was taken late July 2022 during a heat wave and drought. At this point the lawn was being watered deeply every 4 days, cut at 3”, and mulch mowed.

Alternating your mowing pattern will not only reduce compaction, but it will add a professional look to your lawn.

Two Important Bonus Practices:

1.     Mower blades should always be kept sharp.  Dull blades bruise the leaf resulting in frayed leaves and a duller lawn appearance. 

2.     Vary your mowing pattern throughout the season to reduce soil compaction.  Changing your mowing pattern will also improve turf appearance.  I recommend rotating through at least three different mowing patterns.  For example:  mow parallel to the street, the next time mow at a 45-degree angle, followed by mowing perpendicular to the street or at the opposite 45-degree angle. 

Changing the mowing pattern will reduce soil compaction and improve turf appearance.

Lawn mowing is the most time-consuming landscape practice. 

It has to be performed more frequently than fertilizing, weed control, bed weeding, shrub trimming, and flower planting.

It is easy to allow mowing to become just another task that has to be done.  But, a well, properly maintained lawn is well worth the time and effort. 

Nothing adds more curb appeal to a property than a well-groomed lawn.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

PS - The abundance of rain coupled with the warm night-time temperatures of July, Brown Patch is a Fescue lawn's biggest challenge currently.  If you have Fescue, click this link and take a minute to learn more.  

Summertime = water time!

This week marked the official start of summer. June 21st, known as the summer solstice, is the longest day of the year. 

It appears our weather got the memo.  Suddenly, temperatures are flirting with triple digits and suddenly there is less rain in the forecast.

As temperatures rise and rainfall declines, it is important to develop the best watering practices.   

---

• Good watering practices start with being aware of current weather patterns and adjusting watering schedules.   

• Good watering practices need to be your number one focus in the landscape for the next few weeks.

• Good watering practices will have the biggest influence on the health and appearance of your lawn and landscape for the rest of the summer.   

---

Best Watering Practices:

Apply 1” to 1.5” of water per week.  

Your lawn and landscape need 1” to 1.5” of moisture per week when temperatures are consistently 90 degrees or higher. 

Which begs the question: “How long should I water?” 

Every irrigation system is different – different head types, different size nozzles, different head spacing, different soils, different slopes, etc.  

The best way to know how long you should water is to measure the amount of water your system puts out in each zone. Take a few cans and place them around your lawn in a random pattern.  Run your sprinklers through a cycle and measure the amount of water in the cans.  If the sprinklers ran for 15 minutes and you had .25” of water, that zone needs a total of 60 to 90 minutes of run time per week.  

Next, determine how long you can run your irrigation before there is excessive runoff.  This will tell you how many times per week you need to water.  If you can get away with watering every 4th day, you will have a healthier, stronger landscape.  Unfortunately, with our tight soils, watering every other day on the required ODD/EVEN system during the hottest times is needed to get the correct amount of water on the lawn without excessive runoff. 

If you don’t have the time to audit the amount of water your system puts out, start with these settings, monitor, and adjust: 

Fixed spray pattern heads with 10-15’ spacings – 15 mins per time. 

Larger rotor type heads on 20-30’ spacings – 30 mins per time. 

Currently, I am watering my fescue lawn every 4 days using the best practices mentioned here.  Because of recently planted annuals and perennials, my landscape is currently being watered every other day.  I will continue the 4-day schedule for the lawn until I see signs of stress from lack of water.

Set your controller to water with back-to-back run times.  

For most of our landscapes, if you run our sprinklers long enough to get the recommended amount of water, you end up with a lot of water running down the street.  Splitting zone run time in half and setting the controller to run through the zones back to back will improve the amount of water that soaks in and reduce the amount of water that runs off.   

Example:  Set the controller to run at 4:00 AM and 5:00 AM.  When the 4:00 cycle completes, even if it is past 5:00, the controller will start the second cycle. 

I know from experience that moist soil will absorb more water than dry soil.  Soil is just like the sponge in your sink. A dried-out sponge repels water before it starts absorbing water.  Your lawn is the same.  The first cycle moistens the soil and the second cycle soaks in. 

Split, back-to-back, irrigation cycles are an old golf course trick.  For years, large commercial irrigation controllers have had a run/soak cycle setting that waters a short time, delays, and then waters a longer time.  Now, more and more smart controllers offer a run/soak cycle feature.

I started using split, back-to-back, irrigation cycles a few years ago on lawns with slopes. 

After seeing great results, I started incorporating the concept on all lawns.

 It makes a difference in watering efficiency.

Water in the early morning. 

Evaporation is at its lowest point in the pre-dawn hours.  Typically, the wind is also at the lowest point of the day in the pre-dawn hours. 

I prefer to set most irrigation controllers to start at 4:00 AM with the goal of having the cycle completed by 8:00 AM. 

Avoid watering in the heat of the day when much of the water will be lost to evaporation.  Also, avoid watering in the evening. Watering in the evening promotes many turf diseases because the lawn stays wet too long.

This is critical for fescue lawns.  If fescue stays wet for more than 6 hours at a time and nighttime temperatures are in the 70s, brown patch is unavoidable.  Fescue performs best in the heat if it is watered deeply, and grass blades are dry by noon. 

If you water your fescue lawn in both the morning and the evening during the summer because you “can’t seem to get enough water on it!”, your lawn isn’t struggling because it is too dry, your lawn is struggling because you have created the perfect conditions for brown patch, a fescue lawn’s worst enemy.

IMPORTANT: Don’t water fescue in the evening during the summer. When water remains in the leaf for more than 6 hours, brown patch disease will develop.

How much difference does infrequent, deep watering make when it comes to developing a drought tolerant lawn?  This is my home lawn on August 20 last summer.  As an experiment I watered every 4 days starting August 1st. Temperatures were in the upper 90s to 100s the first 20 days of August last year. The only rainfall was 2/10” on August 10. Because of deep watering, my fescue lawn, in mostly sun, was able to stay green and healthy during last year’s hot summer.

Daily watering is not needed.  

Unless you are trying to get newly planted seed to germinate or new sod to take root, there is not a good reason to water every day.  Always water deep and infrequent.  Daily, shallow watering creates a landscape that is shallow-rooted and more dependent on constant moisture for survival. 

Fescue will also benefit from deep soakings, every other day, through the summer months. Shallow, daily watering in the summer heat is very damaging to fescue. Again: Brown patch symptoms look very similar to drought stress. Typically, the more you water, the worse the fescue looks, so you add more water, and the cycle of decline continues.

A common myth I would love to dispel is that fescue requires a lot more water than Bermuda.  Yes, it does for a couple of weeks in the fall when you are trying to get newly seeded fescue to germinate, but mature fescue doesn’t require more moisture than Bermuda. 

Aeration improves moisture absorption. 

You can’t beat aeration for improving your soil structure. A key benefit of improved soil structure is better water absorption.  Lawns that receive annual aeration (or at least every other year) do not experience as much runoff. 

Always pay attention to water needs.  

If we receive 1/2” of rain or more, turn your controller off for a few days.  Install a rain sensor if you are not good at remembering.  A rain sensor will pay for itself easily in one season. 

Just because it is summer, don’t assume you can leave your controller in automatic and forget it. 

Don’t stress if your lawn and landscape get a little dry, it will rebound quickly once water is applied. 

A good indicator that your lawn is needing water is the footprint test.  If the grass retains your footprints instead of quickly springing back, it is time to resume watering.

Fescue growing on the top of a sprinkler head.

Watch for uneven water patterns. 

If you notice areas where the lawn color is fading, you may have uneven moisture patterns.  This could be the result of a broken head, a clogged nozzle, or a head that is out of adjustment. 

Head to head coverage is when the water from one sprinkler head reaches all the way to the next head. Without head to head coverage, dry areas can develop around heads.

Fixing uneven water patterns in your lawn may be as simple as making sure heads are straight. A leaning head will result in uneven water distribution.

A clue to an uneven watering problem is an arc pattern matching the sweep of an irrigation head.

Even if you don’t have an irrigation system, the concepts of good watering apply.  

It is important to learn how long you need to water when you are using a hose-end sprinkler.  Next time you water, set out a few cans.  You will be surprised how long you need to water to get the proper amount of water on your lawn. 

Invest in a digital hose water timer, such as the ones made by Orbit.  It will make it easier for you to control the timing and frequency of watering. 

If you need help in determining your lawn and landscape’s water needs, let us know. 

We can schedule an irrigation audit for your lawn and landscape.  We will inspect for uneven water distribution, absorb water rates, make recommended irrigation changes, and set the controller for optimal operation.  Give us a call if we can help – (405)367-3873.

A healthy landscape is an important part of our environment.

A healthy turf helps clean the air, trap carbon dioxide, reduce erosion, improve groundwater quality, absorb noise, reduce temperatures, as well as adds curb appeal and value to your home. 

A key component of a healthy landscape is correct water usage. 

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

More perennials, please!

Over the years, I have become more and more fond of using perennials in the landscape. 

In the early days of my love for landscapes, I was slow to add perennials because they don’t add color all season and often their foliage is unattractive after the blooms faded.  When I did add a few, they always found their home in an out-of-the-way, background location of the landscape. 

I still believe annual color is the best choice close to the front door, along the front walks, and key areas around outdoor living spaces.  Annual color is the best way to create a bright, welcoming, and season-long statement in the landscape.  But, more and more, I find myself adding perennials to landscapes.   

What is the difference between annuals and perennials?

Perennial plants regrow every spring.

Annual plants live for only one growing season and then die.

Perennials usually have a shorter blooming period compared to annuals.

Great landscapes use a combination of both plants.

There are so many perennial choices.  Books and books have been devoted to perennials.  I have my favorites.  Favorites that have found a home in my landscape, and although none of them add color the entire season, as a group, they do add interest from spring to fall. 

Creeping Phlox (Phlox stolonifera).  The first to welcome spring each year.  Creeping phlox produces a spring-like carpet in pastel hues of white, lavender, red, and pink.  Creeping phlox is a moderate grower that can spread up to 2’ but only reaches 4-6” in height.  It prefers full sun but will tolerate some shade each day.  Borders, walls, and around boulders are where it looks best.  In my garden, you will find it cascading over a rock retaining wall. It tolerates most soils as long as it is well drained.  The plant requires little maintenance.  Mites are about the only insect problem it will have.   

Creeping Phlox

Creeping phlox cascading over any landscape wall is a great way to say “hello” to spring.

Dianthus

Dianthus and Salvia planted along a flagstone walkway.

Creeping Phlox

Creeping Phlox

Dianthus (Dianthus).   It works well as a border, in small groupings, around boulders, or as a single plant reaching 10-15” tall with a spread of 12-24”.  They bloom in late spring to early summer in rose, pink, white, and red.  They prefer areas where they will receive at least 6 hours of full sun each day but will tolerate some dappled shade or afternoon shade.  Just like creeping phlox, they are a cool season lover.  They will grow in most soils, prefer alkaline soils, but waterlogged soil will cause crown and root rot.   Heavy mulching near the crown of the plant can be detrimental. Late March through April and into May is the peak bloom time.  Light feeding in the spring with a complete fertilizer of phosphorus, potassium, and low nitrogen is recommended.  Other than an occasional aphid or powdery mildew issue, they do not have many problems.  There are more than 300 varieties of dianthus to choose from.  My all-time favorite is ‘Firewitch’.  It has a silver-green foliage and a vibrant pink bloom. One shortcoming – it is not uncommon for them to thrive for a few years and then gradually decline, so you may need to replant every 3-4 years.  I have found this true with the dianthus planted in my front landscape, but at the same time, I have a planting of dianthus in my back landscape that has overperformed for at least 10 years running.

Dianthus

‘May Night’ Salvia (Salvia x sylvestris).  Sage-type flower spikes of deep bluish-purple that will add color in April, May and early June. The best flower show will be in full sun, but it will tolerate a little dappled shade each day.  The plant grows 12-18” tall with flower spikes reaching 24”.  The plant looks great in the middle of the garden planted behind creeping phlox or dianthus, and in front of Shasta daisy or Black-eyed Susan.  The leaves often become tattered later in the summer. Keep faded blooms removed to maximize bloom period and pruning the plants after blooming may result in a few fall blooms. In the early spring, before new growth emerges, remove the dormant foliage.  Salvia tolerates clay soils but will struggle with root rot if the soil stays saturated. 

Cutting Salvia back after it has finished blooming for the season.

From April through early June you can count on May Night Salvia adding deep blue to purple spikes of color to the landscape.

Pink Dianthus, May Night Salvia with Gold Moneywort ground cover.

Daylily (Hemerocallis).  There are over 80,000 varieties of daylily.  They come in nearly every color and shade of color you can imagine, ranging 10-36” tall and 12-24” wide.  Depending on the variety, blooms start in early summer and extend into late summer with a successive blooming habit that lasts 4-6 weeks. They also are one of the most adaptable plants.  They are very cold-hardy and very heat tolerant.  They are happy in almost every soil condition; clay, loam, dry, wet, and low nutrient.  They prefer full sun but will bloom in partial shade.  With a clump-type growth, they are dynamic planted in a mass grouping.  Leave dormant foliage until new foliage emerges in the spring.  Fertilize in early spring and again in early summer.  Clumps can be divided every 3-5 years in the fall.  Remove spent flower stocks to encourage more blooms.  The most common yellow daylily is ‘Stella de’ Oro’.  ‘Pardon Me’ is a great red daylily.  Planting daylilies behind liriope (monkey grass) will help cover up the unattractive foliage as it begins to fade in late summer.  Look around, daylilies started putting on their early summer show this week.

‘May Night’ Salvia

‘May Night’ Salvia

May Night Salvia

Daylily

Daylight

Red Coneflower, Black-eyed Susan and Shasta Daisy

Shasta Daisy (Chrysanthemum x superbum).  Classic daisy appearance of white petals around a yellow center.  They grow in clumps 1-2’ wide and 2-3’ tall.  Best if planted in fertile soil that drains well.  The more sun they receive the more they will bloom.  Shasta Daisies start blooming in early summer and can last until early fall.  They make great cut flowers.  Keeping the faded blooms cut will extend the color show.  After the foliage goes dormant in late fall, cut the stems back to 1-2”.  They respond well to light fertilizer in the spring.  Daisies perform best if they are divided every 3-5 years.  Considered a low-maintenance plant, aphids are about the only insect you may see.  ‘Becky’ is a favorite variety.

Daylily and Shasta Daisy

Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia grandiflora).  Daisy-like golden-yellow flower petals surround a dark brown or black center reaching 2-4’ and spreading 2’.   The large flower blooms (2-4”) will be arriving in the next few weeks and will continue into July.   And, if you keep spent blooms trimmed off, you will get a few blooms in the fall. Plant in sun to partial shade.  As a native prairie plant, you will find it to be low maintenance.  It tolerates most soils but prefers well-drained.  Because of its height, plant in the middle of a bed or as a background to lower perennials, similar to dianthus or salvia. The plant can be divided every 3-5 years.  Remove dormant foliage anytime in the fall or winter.  It can develop powdery mildew if in too much shade.  Minimal feeding is required.  Keep a watch out for occasional aphid problems. 

One of the best late summer blooming perennials is Black-eyed Susan.

Black-eyed Susan

Black-eyed Susan

Because of its height, plant in the middle of a bed or as a background to lower perennials, such as dianthus or salvia. The plant can be divided every 3-5 years. Remove dormant foliage anytime in the fall or winter. It can develop powdery mildew if in too much shade. Minimal feeding is required. Keep a watch out for occasional aphid problem.

Coneflower

One of the longer blooming summer perennials is Coneflower.

Coneflower

Coneflower (Echinacea).  A native prairie plant with purple or white blooms 2-4” in diameter.    Just like black-eyed Susan it reaches 2-4’ in height and spreads out 2-3’ and makes a good show planted in the back or sides of the garden.  But it also works well as a single specimen.  Plant in sun to partial shade.  It is one of the longest summer bloomers with a show that lasts 5-8 weeks. The coarse texture of the leaves makes them well-suited near softer-textured plants such as ornamental grasses.  It enjoys well-drained, fertile soil.  Removing faded flowers will encourage more blooms.  Remove dead foliage in the winter.  Coneflower is fairly disease tolerant and responds to feeding early in the growing season, and also likes to be mulched.

Hardy Verbena (Verbena).  This low-growing (4-6”) spreading (2-3’) perennial thrives in the summer heat while producing purple, pink, red, or white blooms.  Verbena is not picky about soil type but requires full sun.  When it gets more than 2-3 hours of shade per day, its biggest problem is powdery mildew disease increases.  The low-growing nature makes it perfect for the front of beds, along walks, and cascading over walls and slopes.  It also looks great in pots and window boxes.  Good drainage and fertile soils are needed and with consistent irrigation blooms and spread will increase. Feed in spring and after the first flush of heavy blooms.  Don’t fertilize after July.  Verbena likes mulch to insulate roots and hold in moisture.  Sheering the plant just below spent blooms will encourage growth and more flowering.  My favorite variety is ‘Homestead Purple’. 

Garden Mum (Chrysanthemum x moratorium).  Typically thought of as an annual, they make a great perennial for fall color with shades of pink, red, white, and yellow.  Plant height and width are both 1-3’ resulting typically in a round shape.  They produce a wonderful burst of color for 2-4 weeks in late September and October.  Mums will tolerate light shade but prefer full sun.  To survive the winter as a perennial they need moisture and good drainage. Therefore, add an ample amount of compost when planting in our clay soils.  Dormant foliage can be removed anytime during the winter or in the spring when new growth emerges.  Mums will bloom a little in the spring or early summer.  Once the early blooms fade, keep the plant sheared to the shape and height you prefer.  Stop shearing after the first of July.  When you shear a mum during the last half of the summer, you are removing the flower buds for the fall.

Hosta (Hosta).  Monrovia.com lists over 78 varieties of hosta.  This shade to partial sun loving plant is perfect for adding brightness to shady areas.  Varieties range in size, but 12-14” tall and 30” wide is common.  They prefer organic soil and regular watering when it is hot.  Their leafy appearance is a great companion to ground covers.  Monrovia calls them “the potato chip of plants…once you have one and watch how it lights up the shade you will want another.”  One of my favorites is ‘Patriot’.  I dare you to plant just one. 

Hosta x 'Patriot' is a compact variety with large glossy green foliage with gleaming white edges.

King Ostrich Fern

Fern.  Excellent for shade gardens and damp areas. They require frequent watering, especially in the summer heat.  There are many varieties but for most gardens, ones that grow 18-30” with a 24” spread, are best.  They are an easy-going plant that adds texture to the landscape.  It is a great plant for filling in bare areas in the shade.  Matteuccia struthiopteris ‘The King’ is a favorite Ostrich fern. 

Coral Bells (Heuchera).  A great shade companion to hosta and caladium, this perennial will also be happily planted in a little more sun.  It makes a great border, a mass grouping, or plant a single plant as an accent.  There are many varieties with colorful foliage to choose from.  ‘Palace Purple’ has deep purple foliage which looks great planted with ‘Patriot’ Hosta. 

Coral Bell 'Palace Purple' planted as an accent with fern in a shady raised planter.

Gaillardia

The best time to add perennials to your landscape is spring and fall.  But, you can find success adding perennials most anytime; just avoid the hottest days of the summer and the coldest period of the winter.  My favorite time to add perennials is when I am planting my summer color at this time of the year and again in the fall when changing the summer color out for pansies.

A great resource is Monrovia.com. https://www.monrovia.com/plant-catalog/

Another great way to learn more about perennials is to take monthly walks through the Myriad Garden and Scissortail Park to see what is currently in bloom.

What are your favorite perennials? 

We are always on the lookout for new ideas.

Text or email us a few pictures of perennials blooming in your landscape!       

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

One Easy Way To Make A Big Difference In Your Lawn - Don’t Bag Your Clippings!

This is a lesson I learned early in my lawn and landscape career. 

The Tale of Two Very Similar but Very Different Lawns

In the late 1980s, the full-service landscape management company that I started while in college provided landscape maintenance for two homeowner associations located directly across the street from each other in NW Oklahoma City. 

The economics of the two HOAs were very different resulting in a big difference in services:

• The HOA on the south side of the street had a contract with two fewer fertilizer applications than the one on the north side of the street. 

• The one on the north side also required us to bag and remove the lawn clippings.  The south side HOA’s budget couldn’t afford the extra expense for bagging and waste disposal.

• The HOA on the north side had an irrigation system with nearly perfect coverage that ran every other day while the one on the other side of the street had an old inadequate system that we struggled to keep operating during dry spells. 

Which HOA do you think always had the greenest grass?

Not the one with more fertilizer applications and more water.

The one with the greenest grass was the one that couldn’t afford to have their grass clippings bagged and removed!

Why Does Not Bagging Your Clippings Make Such a Big Difference?

• Grass clippings are 80-90% water and nutrients, mostly nitrogen.  Every time you throw away a bag of clippings you are throwing away moisture and valuable nutrients.

• You can gain one pound of nitrogen per growing season by returning your clippings to the lawn each time you mow.  This is a significant amount considering most turf grasses require 4 to 5 pounds of nitrogen for optimal growth, density, and color.  Research at the University of Missouri and Kansas State University confirms that 25% of your lawn’s needed annual nutrients are contained in your lawn clippings.

NW OKC Bermuda lawn that is mowed regularly without clippings being bagged & removed.

Freshly mowed Bermuda lawn cut tight with a reel. Clippings were not bagged but a blower was used to redistribute noticeable clippings.

Not bagging your lawn clippings is like someone offering to give you free fertilizer, and you saying, “No Thanks!”

• Decaying clippings will increase organic material in the soil.  As clippings break down beneficial bacteria increases.  Healthy soils contain at least 5% organic material.  Most lawns contain 2-3% organic material and research shows that consistently allowing your clippings to return to the soil will increase organic material by at least 1%.

Not bagging your lawn clipping is like someone offering to top-dress your lawn with compost for free, and you saying, “No thanks!”

Fescue lawn immediately after the lawn was cut.  1" of growth was removed.  Clippings were not bagged.

If there you have noticeable clippings after you mulch mow, simply use your blower to redistribute clippings.

Mulch mowing leaves in the fall is beneficial for your soil.

Keys to Successfully Mulch Mowing

• Mow frequently enough that you only remove 1/3 of the grass per mowing.  For example: If your goal is to maintain your lawn at 2”, mow before your lawn grows past 3”.  This may require you to occasionally mow every 4-5 days instead of the traditional once per week. When only cutting 1/3 of the growth you are only cutting off the leaves. Grass leaves break down very quickly and do not increase thatch on the soil surface.

• If you get behind with your mowing, raise your mower up and gradually lower it back down over the next couple of cuttings.  In the worst case, bag the clippings one time and then return to mulch mowing as you regain a more frequent mowing routine.

• Don’t mulch mow when the grass is wet.  Wet grass clippings clump and don’t break down quickly.

• Mowers designed for mulch mowing work best since they cut the clippings multiple times.  If you don’t have a mulching mower, most brands have mulching kits and/or mulching blades you can add to your mower.  And there is nothing wrong with just mowing without the bag on with most mowers.

• Keep your lawn mower blade sharp.  A sharp blade will cut the clippings finer instead of tearing the grass leaf.

• When you finish mowing if there are any noticeable clippings on your lawn use your blower to spread them out.

• One last exception, if you have weeds with seed heads, it is best to bag your clippings and remove the weed seeds from your lawn.

Mulching mowers, also known as recyclers, will nourish the lawn by cutting the clippings into smaller clippings and return nitrogen, moisture, and organic material back to the lawn.

If you haven’t figured it out, I’m a big believer in not catching your clippings.  It will make a huge difference in the color of your turf and the health of your lawn. And, when done correctly, you won’t even notice any clippings.

If you mow your own lawn, give it a try.

If you hire someone to mow your lawn, give them permission to not bag as long as they do not leave behind any noticeable clippings or debris. 

I know you will like the difference it makes on your lawn.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Where Are the April Showers?

It is rare to be addressing watering practices in April.   Who thinks about watering issues in April?

Regardless of the time of year, one of the best practices for your lawn and landscape is to pay attention to rainfall and supplement with good watering practices when needed.

---

Good watering practices start with being aware of current weather patterns and making adjustments to watering schedules.  

Good watering practices are one of the biggest influences in the health and appearance of your landscape.  

---

The west and north areas of the Oklahoma City metro are way behind on spring moisture.  Lawns and landscapes that are not receiving supplemental moisture are showing signs of drought stress.  Unfortunately, most people are not used to paying attention to their lawn & landscape’s moisture needs in April.

Best Watering Practices:

Your lawn and landscape need 1” of water per week during the spring.  

A common question is “How long should I water?”  Every irrigation system is different – different head types, different size nozzles, different head spacing, different areas, etc.  

The best way to know how long you should water is to measure the amount of water your system puts out in each zone. Take a few cans and place them around your lawn in a random pattern.  Run your sprinklers through a cycle and measure the amount of water in the cans.  If the sprinklers ran for 15 minutes and you had .25” of water, you need 60 minutes per week.  

Next, determine how long you can run your irrigation before there is excessive runoff.  This will tell you how many times per week you need to water.

If you can get away with watering every 4th-day versus every other day, you will have a healthier, stronger lawn and landscape.  

If you don’t have the time to audit the amount of water your system puts out, start with these settings, monitor, and adjust:  

• Fixed spray pattern heads with 10-15’ spacings – 15 mins per time.  

• Larger rotor type heads on 20-30’ spacings – 30 mins per time.  

Set your controller to water with back-to-back run times.  

For most of our landscapes, if we run our sprinklers long enough to get the recommended amount of water, we end up with a lot of water running down the street.  Splitting zone run time in half and setting the controller to run through the zones back to back will improve the amount of water that soaks in and reduce the amount of water that runs off.  

Example:  Set the controller to run at 4:00 AM and 5:00 AM.  When the 4:00 cycle completes, even if it is after 5:00, the controller will start the second cycle.  

Moist soil will absorb more water than dry soil.  Soil is just like the sponge in your sink. A dried sponge repels water before it starts absorbing water.  Your landscape is the same.  The first cycle moistens the soil and the second cycle soaks in.  

Split, back-to-back, irrigation cycles are an old golf course trick.

I started using split, back-to-back, irrigation cycles a few years ago on lawns with slopes.  

After seeing great results, I started incorporating the concept on all lawns.

It makes a difference in watering efficiency.

Water in the early morning.  

Evaporation is at its lowest point in the pre-dawn hours.  Also, the wind is usually at the lowest point of the day in the pre-dawn hours.  I prefer to set most irrigation controllers to start at 4:00 AM with the goal of having the cycle completed by 8:00 AM.  

Avoid watering in the heat of the day when much of the water will be lost to evaporation.  Also, avoid watering in the evening. Watering in the evening promotes many turf diseases because the lawn stays wet too long.

IMPORTANT: Don’t water fescue in the evening during the summer. When water remains in the leaf for more than 6 hours, brown patch disease will develop.

Daily watering is not needed.

Unless you are trying to get newly planted seed to germinate or new sod to take root, there is not a good reason to water every day.  Always water deep and infrequent.  Daily, shallow watering creates a landscape that is shallow-rooted and more dependent on constant moisture for survival.  

Fescue will benefit from a deep soaking just like Bermuda. A common myth I would love to dispel is that fescue requires a lot more water than Bermuda.  Yes, it is when you are trying to get newly seeded fescue to germinate, but mature fescue doesn’t require more moisture than Bermuda.  

I water my fescue the same way I water Bermuda – deep, infrequent cycles.

It’s April!  Fescue should be at their best. If you have areas of fescue that are not rich green, check the soil moisture. If you can slip a large screwdriver several inches into the soil, you need to water.

Aeration improves moisture absorption.  

You can’t beat aeration for improving your soil structure. A key benefit of improved soil structure is better water absorption.  Lawns that receive annual aeration (or at least every other year) do not experience as much runoff.  

Always pay attention to water need.  

If we receive .5” of rain or more, turn your controller off for a few days.  Install a rain sensor if you are not good at remembering.  A rain sensor will pay for itself easily in one season.  Don’t assume you can leave your controller in automatic and forget it.  

Don’t stress if your lawn and landscape gets a little dry, it will rebound quickly once water is applied.  

A good indicator that your lawn is needing water is the footprint test.  If the grass retains your footprints instead of quickly springing back, it is time to resume watering.

Fescue growing on the top of a sprinkler head.

Watch for uneven water patterns.  

If you notice areas where the lawn color is fading, you may have uneven moisture patterns.  This could be the result of a broken head, a clogged nozzle, or a head that is out of adjustment.  

Head to head coverage is when the water from one sprinkler head reaches all the way to the next head. Without head to head coverage, dry areas can develop around heads.

A clue to an uneven watering problem is an arc pattern matching the sweep of an irrigation head.

Even if you don’t have an irrigation system, the concepts of good watering still apply.

It is important to learn how long you need to water when you are using a hose-end sprinkler.  Next time you water, set out a few cans.  You will be surprised how long you need to water to get the proper amount of water on your lawn.  Invest in a digital hose water timer, such as ones made by Orbit.  It will make it easier for you to control the timing and frequency of watering.  

A healthy landscape is an important part of our environment.  A healthy turf helps clean the air, trap carbon dioxide, reduce erosion, improve groundwater quality, absorb noise, reduce temperatures, as well as, adds curb appeal and value to your home.  

Let’s hope metro-wide spring moisture arrives soon.  

Our environment needs it. Our lawns and landscapes need it.  

But, if it doesn’t, be prepared to put the best watering practices in place.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873