May Lawn & Landscape Tips

May is an easy month to love.  Days in the 80’s…  Green, green lawns…  Landscapes full of bright colors! 

May, a month made for being outside in your lawn and landscape!

May is a busy month for the lawn and landscape. 

Here are a some of the most important outdoor tasks to focus on:

Crape Myrtles started putting on new growth this year.  Now is the time to inspect and prune out any dead wood.

If you are unsure if the branch is  dead, scratch the bark.  If the layer just below the bark is green, then the branch is alive.

Turf Fertilizer – Bermuda lawns need a good feeding between late April and the end of May.  Bermuda will respond well to a balanced fertilizer with at least 28% to 30% nitrogen and only a small amount of phosphorus and potassium.  Fescue turf needs to receive one more application of fertilizer between mid-April and mid-May to get them ready for warm days of summer.  Once temperatures consistently reach 90 fertilizing fescue will do more harm than good.    

Weed Control - Weeds that were not prevented, both grassy and broadleaf weeds, require additional treatment to control.  Now that warm season turf is out of dormancy, control of weeds can be stepped up.  During May it is best to spot spray any persistent perennial weeds being careful to limit turf damage.  Remember the absolute best weed control is thick and healthy turf.       

Nutsedge has begun to show up in lawns.  Because there isn’t a way to prevent nutsedge, spot treatments can be expected.  If nutsedge has been a chronic problem in your lawn, annual aeration will make a difference.  Nutsedge thrives in tight, wet soils and since aeration reduces compaction, we find yards that are aerated annually have less nutsedge issues.    

Nutsedge

Maynight Salvia, the perfect name for the perennial that adds bright blues and purples to the May landscape.

Anytime we make an application of weed control or fertilizer, please let us know if you have any concerns 10-14 days after our visit.  If the turf isn’t greening up properly, or if weeds are not wilting, we want to know.  If you are new to our program, we know it will take time to get your lawn to the healthy condition you desire.  But we expect to make progress with each visit.  We know this may require additional visits and if you are on our full 7- Step Program, we will make the needed extra visits. 

Oakleaf Hydrangeas will start gracing the landscape with their white blooms this month.

Tree & Shrub Care – We subscribe to an integrated pest management approach, which starts with inspecting trees and shrubs and treating as needed.  Starting in May and continuing through the growing season, take a few minutes each week to inspect your landscape for insects and disease.   

Spider Mites – When it comes to Insect and Disease you always have to be on the lookout.  Typically, we are on the watch for spider mites, the Twospotted Spider Mite, in the summer when conditions are hot and dry.  But there is also the Spruce Spider Mite that is active in the spring and fall.  They can be found on spruce, pines, junipers and arborvitae. It can cause considerable damage early in the season before we are even thinking about spider mites.   The first indication of the Spruce Spider Mite damage is off-green color needles.  Spider mites are not controlled by normal insecticides.  If trying to control them yourself, you must use a product labeled as a miticide.  Insecticides will not control spider mites.   

The first indication of Spruce Spider Mite damage is an off-green color on your spruce, pine, juniper or arborvitae.

Bagworms - May is the month to be watching for bagworms on needle evergreens.  Bagworms are quite easy to control when they are small.  But they are very hard to see when they first start to develop.  If you notice bagworms, or have a concern about your plants, please let us know.

Bagworms

Spider mites are small and almost impossible to see on the plant. If you are concerned you have spider mites, shake the plant over a white sheet of paper. If the little specks start moving they are spider mites.

Be on the lookout for bagworms this month. They are much easier to control when they are small.

Leaf spot

Leaf Spot - Leaf spots will develop if we have periods of sufficient moisture and temperatures are just right for development of the fungus.  The best host for leaf spot is an already unhealthy plant in an area with poor air circulation.  Control includes spraying with a fungicide at least two times in a 10–14-day period, keeping fallen leaves picked up and disposed of, and thinning the tree or shrub to improve air flow.

Aphids – A small insect that isn’t easy to spot, but the honeydew, sticky substance they excrete is easy to spot.  Aphids develop on the underside of leaves, often reaching large populations before you notice them.  Early detection is important, and if caught early, a high-pressure blast of water may do the trick.  As the weather warms, populations increase, and insecticide treatment will be needed. 

Lawn Maintenance – Both warm and cool season turf grasses need frequent mowing now.  One of the most important things for good turf health is to avoid removing more than 1/3 of the grass in one mowing.  Not only does it not yield you the best-looking lawn when you cut below the leaf and into the stem of the grass, it also weakens the root system.  Try to maintain your Bermuda on the middle setting or just below the middle setting in May.  For fescue, raise the setting one notch this month and cut the lawn 2.5-3” tall.  By early June it is best to have fescue at a maximum height going into the summer. 

When mowing frequently, only remove 1/3 of the grass, don’t bag the clippings. Mulch them back onto the lawn. Grass leaf blades are mostly nitrogen and water and are very beneficial to the lawn.

Dianthus is a perennial that graces the May landscape with vibrant blooms and gray and green foliage.

May Night Salvia, Dianthus and Gold Moneywort make a colorful combination in the May landscape.

Full sun planting of lantana, penta, angelonia, and sunpatiens.

Sun Coleus

Fescue color is at its best this month.

Lantana and Sun Coleus make a great summer combination in full sun, hot areas. May is the month to plant them.

Seasonal Color – May is the month to plant your summer annual color.  Most landscapes look best with a splash of bright color creating a welcoming environment near the front door.  Impatiens and Caladiums are great choices for full shade areas.  Begonias, petunias, and geraniums do well in sun to part shade.  And for full sun, periwinkle, lantana, sunpatiens, angelonia, sun coleus and penta are good at handling the heat.   

Penta

Caladium

Take into consideration the mature size when planting seasonal color. The temptation is to over plant.

Irrigation – As of Saturday morning the Oklahoma City Metro area has only received 1.5” of rain.  In a typical April we receive 3.5-4”.  With less than normal rainfall has caught many off guard as we are seeing a lot of lawns suffer from early signs of draught stress, which is not a common condition for this time of year. With your lawn now needing 1” of moisture per week, it is time to start your normal watering routine.  But remember - the best irrigation management is one that includes keeping an eye on rainfall amounts, soil moisture, and temperatures.  Monitor conditions, turn your system off if when are in a rainy period. Poor water management is setting the irrigation system at the beginning of the season and letting it run regardless of the conditions.

If you have subscribed to our Irrigation Management program with the Rainbird Wi-Fi Link, we will make watering decisions based on soil temperatures, soil moisture, temperatures, and recent rainfall and adjust your controller via the Rainbird app. 

Azalea Care – Azaleas were stunning this spring.  Azaleas require a little more care, but they are worth it.  Fertilize azaleas this month.   After blooms fade and before the end of June prune azaleas if needed.  Pruning after mid-summer will result in less blooms next year.  Azaleas look best when minimally pruned and allowed to retain their natural shape.  Prune by removing longer shoots by reaching down and making cuts where they come off a larger branch.  This will improve air moment and promote healthy growth.  Avoid shearing azaleas. Add a fresh layer of mulch to keep the soil cooler and retain moisture during the warm summer months to come. The best mulch for azaleas is pecan hulls or pine bark.   

Peonies have been adding a burst of color to the landscapes for the last two weeks.

The same plantings in July

Wisteria

Periwinkle

Remove the brown stems on your hydrangeas left from the winter back to the first bud this mont.

Hydrangea Pruning – If you haven’t already, now is the time to prune the brown stems left from the winter back to the first bud.  In most cases this is the only pruning recommended for hydrangeas.  During the summer, if you want to you can snip off spent blooms, but it is not required.  Otherwise, keep the pruners and shears away from your hydrangeas.  And…never prune in the fall.

Gold Mound Spirea not only add interest to the landscape with their foliage, they also deliver an additional touch of color with red-violet blooms this month.

If you have any questions, please drop us an email or give us a call at (405)367-3873.

Our mission is to help you have your best lawn and landscape…one that improves the appearance, enjoyment and value of your surroundings.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

3 Keys to a Great Lawn -- #1 Lawn Care Applications

When it comes to having a great lawn, what is most important? 

• Lawn care applications? 

• Maintenance practices? 

• Environmental conditions?

All three are keys to a great lawn - Lawn Care Applications, Maintenance, and Environmental Conditions. 

Great lawns are not a result of getting one, or even two, of the three correct.

Great lawns are equally the result of all three.

Discussing the three keys to a great lawn is too much for one writing, so we are going to cover each key separately.

Today, we will cover Lawn Care Applications.  Next month we will visit about how proper Maintenance impacts your lawn and discuss the impact Environmental Conditions have on the greatness of your lawn in June.

Lawn care applications are comprised of two components — weed control and fertilizer.

Weed Control Applications - Correct Timing of Weed Control Applications is Important

Three things you need to know about weeds:

First - Knowing weed life cycle is important when it comes to prevention and control. 

• Annual weeds germinate from seed, grow and flower (produce seed) all within one year.

• Perennial weeds continue to grow year after year increasing in both size and root. 

Second - Identifying the type of weed, are either broadleaf or grassy, is equally important. 

• Broadleaf weeds are the easiest to spot because they look very different from grass.  Broadleaf weeds have a stem with leaves attached. 

• Grassy weeds are actually undesired grass that grow as one single leaf.  Grassy weeds are similar to turf grass.  Often, they are not as noticeable when they are small but will destroy the aesthetics of a lawn as they mature.

Third – Weeds are either winter weeds or summer weeds.

With annual weeds there is a correct time to prevent and with perennial weeds there is a best time to control.  Annual weeds are easiest to prevent, but they can be very difficult to control when mature.   

Lawns that are littered with mature weeds during March and April are the lawns that did not receive a fall pre-emergent application last year. 

Mature weeds are slower to respond to herbicides. Once a weed starts producing flowers they slow growth and don’t take in herbicides as quickly.

Winter annuals are prevented with a pre-emergent herbicide in late summer and fall.  Summer annual weeds are prevented in the late winter and spring.  Timing is the key to both.  For the best results, the pre-emergent needs to be applied before the weeds germinate. 

To prevent summer annual weeds, an application must be made before soil temperatures reach 55 degrees for three consecutive days, which is typically in mid-March. 

To prevent winter annual weeds, an application must be made before the first cool spell occurs in late September to early October.       

Commonly asked question: “Is it too late to start a lawn care program this year?” 

No, it is never too late to start.  Weeds will continue to germinate all summer.  Turf development is important during the growing season.  Starting a lawn care program at any point during the season is better than not starting at all.

Effective prevention of annual weeds is enhanced when a second pre-emergent application is made 30-60 days after the first application.  Pre-emergent herbicides have a life.  Depending on conditions, the product used and the quality of the application, pre-emergent herbicides will last 60 to 120 days.  A second application creates a season long barrier of weed prevention.

A proactive approach to weed control is two timely pre-emergent herbicide applications to prevent summer annual weeds and two timely applications to prevent winter annual weeds.

Mature crabgrass is much harder to control during the growing season.

Now that soil temperatures have consistently been above 55 degrees for a few weeks crabgrass has started growing in lawns that did not receive a pre-emergent early this year.  A pre-emergent now will prevent more crabgrass and other summer annuals from germinating.

Crabgrass, a summer annual grassy weed, is very easy to prevent with a pre-emergent applied in before soil temperatures reach 55 degrees. It is also easy to control when it is in the first stage of growth. This picture was taken this week and is the first crabgrass I have seen this year, two weeks later than normal.

Most weeds littering lawns in March, such as henbit, can easily be prevented with fall pre-emergent herbicides.

A well timed lawn care program will result in your best lawn.

Persistence is a key to gaining control of weeds. Between keeping the area mowed and spraying with herbicides, control can be gained.

Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Programs, both our most popular 7-Step Weed Control & Fertilizer Program and our 4-Step Weed Control Only Program, include 4 pre-emergent herbicide applications each year: 

• Late Winter - January through early March

• Spring – Mid March through mid-May

• Early Fall – Mid August through September

• Late Fall – October through November

But, not all weeds can be prevented.  Existing weeds and perennial weeds require post emergent weed control applications. 

The key to controlling perennial weeds and mature annual weeds is applying the right herbicide at the right time and the willingness to make follow-up applications when required. 

Post Emergent Weed Control Takes Persistence

Fall (October-November) is the best time to control winter broadleaf weeds when they are small and actively growing.  Spring (April-May) is the best time to control summer broadleaf weeds.

When a weed is actively growing it absorbs herbicides much quicker. Once a weed begins flowering growth slows as it focuses on reproduction. During this stage weed control is possible, but slower.

Nutsedge is one of the difficult to control weeds that often requires additional treatments.

Post-emergent weed control is always more difficult when the weed is mature and flowering.  Herbicides work by translocating through the plant.  When a weed is actively growing, it absorbs the product quickly.  Once the weed starts to flower (seed), it slows growth and focuses on reproduction.  During this stage, control is much slower. 

A key to successful control of existing weeds is retreatment if needed 14 days after an application. 

Difficult to control weeds, such as nutsedge, violets, geraniums to name a few, take time to gain 100% control.  Follow up applications are often needed.  Persistence is the key.

Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Programs include follow-up visits when needed to gain control of difficult weeds.   

Poa annua, a winter annual grassy weed, thrives in thin turf.

The best defense against weeds is a healthy thick turf.

Fertilizer Applications – Healthy turf is the best prevention of weeds.

Weed control and fertilizer work hand-in-hand to produce a great lawn.  Common weed problems are less in an actively growing, fertilized, watered and maintained turf. 

A healthy, properly fertilized, dense turfgrass can resist weed invasion and is able to better tolerate heat, cold, drought and wear.   

The three key ingredients in fertilizer are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.  All three are needed by your turf. 

Nitrogen gives a lawn the best quality of color and density, but it is void in our soil.  Therefore, it needs to be added the most. 

Phosphorus and potassium are required for healthy turf growth but because they are present in our soil they do not need to be replaced as much. 

Both Bermuda and fescue are at their best when they receive a total of 4 to 5 lbs of nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft during the growing season spaced out over 4-5 applications. 

Bermuda, being a warm season grass, needs to be fed the most during the summer.  The first application should be made within 2 to 6 weeks of spring green up.  An application before the lawn has come out of dormancy is a waste of product and does not benefit the turf.  The last application should be made by the end of September.  Heavy fall fertilizer in an attempt to force growth and color deep into the fall can be a contributor to spring dead spot.  Follow this link to read more about spring dead spot.

Bermuda, warm season turf, looks best through the summer heat when nighttime temperatures are consistently 65+. Bermuda respond well to regularly scheduled fertilizer applications, high in nitrogen during the summer.

Fescue, a cool season turf requires a completely different schedule and thought process.  Cool season grass is at its peak in the spring and fall.  During the summer, growth slows, and the plant actually enters a period of semi-dormancy even though it never actually loses all its color.

Cool season turf needs fertilizer between the first of March and the end of May.  This creates a strong and healthy turf with the best opportunity of surviving the summer heat.  High nitrogen fertilizer June through August can damage fescue.  In the fall, September through November, resume fertilizer applications. 

Fescue, a cool season grass, looks best in the spring and fall. Fescue lawns need the same amount of annual fertilizer as Bermuda, but it must be applied in the spring and fall. Fertilizer during the summer will damage a fescue lawn.

Picture of the Week:

Iris are now adding color to our landscapes.  Just like all the blooms this spring, they also seem more vibrant than usual. Iris are an old fashioned hardy perennial that require minimal care and live a long time.

Fertilizing fescue in the summer will always lead to disappointment.

Great lawns are the result of a properly timed weed control and fertilizer program that is tailored to your type of grass.

If you are not currently subscribing to a Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Program and have struggled with getting the critical timing right on your lawn, we would enjoy visiting with you.

If you are a Hall | Stewart customer, we look forward to every opportunity to be on your lawn helping you have a great lawn!                

We will continue The Three Keys to a Great Lawn series in May with a look at Maintenance Practices and in June with a look at Environmental Conditions. 

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Aeration… the "& Then Some” of Lawn Care

A good lawn is the result of several key activities:

1.     Correctly timed pre-emergent applications to prevent weeds before they germinate.

2.     Applying the right amount of fertilizer to ensure you have a thick and healthy turf.

3.     Regularly scheduled mowing that only removes the top 1/3 of the leaf blade each time.

4.     Infrequent, deep watering based on seasonal need.

But, there is a 5th activity that too often is overlooked.

George Toma, the greatest groundskeeper in the history of sports, has a saying:   

“Do the job and then some.  It is the ‘then some’ that

distinguishes the mediocre from the great.”

George Toma played a part in preparing the playing field for every Super Bowl until he retired after Super Bowl LVII at the age of 95.  Toma is known as “The Sodfather!”   

George Toma, presenting the keynote address at a turf conference several years ago, started his talk by announcing he was going to discuss the three most important things to have a great turf. 

His 1st point was Aeration.

His 2nd point was Aeration. 

And, you guessed it, his 3rd point was Aeration. 

What are the benefits of aeration? 

• Soil compaction is reduced. 

• Air movement into the soil is improved. 

• Fertilizer can quickly reach the root zone.   

• Water runoff and puddling is reduced. 

• Roots grow stronger and deeper. 

• Thatch is reduced.

• Reduction in weeds that thrive in compacted soils.

For George Toma, the “then some” that distinguishes the mediocre lawn from a great lawn is aeration.

Aerification is a must!

If your goal is to have your best lawn possible, aeration is a required step in your lawn care program.

What is aeration? 

• Aeration is the process of mechanically removing 2”-3” cores of soil, 4”-6” apart, from your lawn.

Compact soils prevent grass from establishing a healthy root system and prevent air, water, and nutrients from reaching the root zone. Walking, playing, and mowing (in other words everything you do on your lawn) increases soil compaction.

As Oklahomans, we know about tight clay, compacted soils.  Our clay soils make growing a great lawn a challenge.

Too often we accept soil compaction as just the way it is and settle for the status quo of an average lawn.  

Stop accepting the norm! 

You don’t have to struggle with the results of growing a lawn in tight, compacted soil.

Golf courses typically aerate their turf at least two times per season.  No wonder the fairways look so much better than most home lawns.

Lawns with compacted soil also are more susceptible to weed development.  Most weeds thrive in tight compacted soil. 

Nutsedge, one of the most difficult to control summer weeds, thrives in tight soils.  Our experience has shown that annually aerated lawns have far less problems with nutsedge.   

Why do golf course fairways always look so good?  Turf managers know the importance of aeration. The secret to a great lawn is a great root system. Annual aeration is the ticket to a great root system.

Should the cores be removed or left on the lawn?

• Leave the cores on the lawn.  As they breakdown and dissolve, they will refill the holes with loose soil resulting in improved soil structure.  The cores will break up and settle back into the lawn within a few weeks.

When should you aerate?

• Warm season lawns (Bermuda and zoysia) should be aerated any time after spring green-up and before the end of July.

• Cool season lawns (fescue) should be aerated in the fall, September through October.  Aeration in conjunction with overseeding will not only improve the soil structure, but it will also improve seed soil contact resulting in better seed germination.

Nothing will take your lawn from good to great more than an annual aeration!

 

One more Toma saying… “The most important part of grass is the soil and the root system.”

Aeration is the best way to improve the soil structure and develop a stronger root system.

Aeration, the most overlooked lawn practice, will give you a healthier, more vigorous, less weedy lawn. 

To achieve your best lawn, annual aeration is a must.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Pic of the week:

Haven’t the tulips been stunning this spring! They started blooming early and just keep going. Came across this colorful grouping in a Hall | Stewart lawn this week. Set a reminder now for this fall to plant tulip bulbs in your landscape. Your effort will reap wonderful rewards next spring.

Growing Azaleas in Central Oklahoma

When it comes to springs, the Spring of 2024 just keeps adding color to our world!

This week, Azaleas are the plants adding burst of color to the landscape. 

“Azaleas are the one plant that will cause a traffic jam.”  Allan Storjohann

Can you grow a traffic jam causing azaleas in our area? 

The Tulsa area is blessed with wonderful azaleas, but common belief is azaleas just don’t do well in central Oklahoma.

This is a myth.  Azaleas can be grown in the Oklahoma City.

But, they require thinking differently about your landscape and a commitment to make it happen. 

Azalea success in central Oklahoma won’t happen if you just dig a hole anywhere in your landscape and drop in an azalea. 

8 Things You Need to Know to Grow Azaleas in Central Oklahoma

1.     Soil preparation is key.  Azaleas require well drained acidic soils (5.0-6.0 pH).  Central Oklahoma is known for tight clay alkaline soils (6.5-7.5 pH).  The first step is to remove all the existing Oklahoma clay and replace it with a mixture of pecan hulls, peat moss, and pine bark.  No soil.  That is correct – azaleas do best when the native soil in our area is removed.  My favorite mixture is 1/3 pecan hulls, 1/3 peat moss, and 1/3 pine bark. But, you will have success with a 50/50 mixture of any 2 of the 3.   

20 year old Hino-Crimson Azaleas planted in a raised bed in a mixture of pecan hulls, peat moss, and pine bark with all the native soil removed.

2.   The size of the hole you dig is important.  The standard for planting most trees and shrubs is a hole twice the size of the plant root ball.  But, when planting azaleas dig the hole 3 to 4 times the size of the plant root ball.  You don’t need a very deep hole – it only needs to be 6-10” deeper than the level of the root ball once it is planted.  Azaleas roots are shallow and like to grow out.  So, think wide and not deep when digging.

3.   Raised beds are best.  Azaleas like moisture but they do not like to have their roots sitting in water.  The best way to achieve a well-drained planting in tight soil is to raise the planting. A great option is to install a 4-12” stone border to gain height or, incorporate a berm in the landscape planting for your azaleas.   When placing the shrub, keep the top of the root ball 1-2” above the grade and gently slope your planting mixture away from the shrub.  The number one reason azaleas die is from root rot. 

4.  Plant in the shade.  Azaleas need mostly shade. They like the morning sun and filtered sunlight.  A great place for an azalea is under large trees, particularly oak and pine.  Pine needles and oak leaves will add acid back to the soil.  If you lack large shade trees, plant them on the north and east sides of your home.  Never plant azaleas where they will be exposed to the hot afternoon and evening sun.  Also, avoid windy locations.

Red Ruffle Azaleas that have been lightly pruned over the years to maintain their natural shape.

5. Consistent water.  When we are receiving sufficient rainfall azaleas do not need any additional water.  But, when temperatures rise and moisture declines, regular watering is very important. Try to provide 1 – 1.5” of water per week during the summer months.  Due to their shallow root structure, roots can dry out quickly.  When temperatures are in the 90s or higher, water every other day with a deep soaking.

Encore Autumn Embers Azaleas

6. Avoid soil cultivation.  Cultivating the soil will disturb the shallow roots.  Control weeds by hand pulling and by mulching with 2-4” of pecan hulls, pine bark, or pine needles. These mulches will increase the acidity of the soil, cool the soil, and retain moisture. 

Encore Autumn Embers Azaleas planted three years ago on the north side of an office building.

7. Correct pruning.  Prune azaleas after the blooms drop in May or June.  Do not prune after July 4th because you will be removing next spring’s blooms.  Azaleas respond well to having branches that have grown too long pruned back to the branch.  This will help maintain a natural shape of the plant and maximize blooms next spring.  Sheering is not recommended.  Dead wood can be removed anytime. 

Azaleas just starting to bloom.

8. Feed them.  Fertilizer applications after blooming in May and June are best. Fertilizing in early spring isn’t recommended as it will promote leaf growth and reduce the amount of blossoms. Use an azalea/camellia/rhododendron food with trace elements for acid growing conditions.    Miracle-Gro Water Soluble Azalea Plant Food and Ferti-Lome Azalea/Evergreen Food Plus are a couple of good examples.

Encore Azaleas have the added benefit of a fall bloom.

When it comes to azaleas, there are a lot of varieties and colors to choose from.  Traditional azaleas that do well in Central Oklahoma include Hino-crimson and the Ruffles series.  Over the past few years, the Encore varieties have become very popular and performed well.  Traditional varieties are heavy spring bloomers.  Encore Azaleas bloom in the spring with a second lighter bloom in the fall.   

Here are a couple of good sources for azalea varieties:  https://www.monrovia.com/search/?q=azalea and https://encoreazalea.com/the-collection/

I planted Hino-Crimson and Red Ruffle Azaleas at our house over 20 years ago using the methods above.    Every spring the colors are stunning.  This time of year, you can’t drive down our street without slowing to steal a glance. 

When planted correctly and maintained well, you won’t regret the time

and effort you put into growing azaleas.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

PS - Next weekend is one of my favorite TV weekends of the year!

Starting Thursday, the networks will start broadcasting and continue through Sunday hours of live coverage of azaleas, dogwoods, and well-maintained turf.  It is just wonderful! 

You do have to tolerate an occasional professional golfer blocking your view of the rich dark green hues of fescue, topped with vibrant pinks, reds, and purples of azaleas, with splashes of white dogwoods. 

I know…I know... Most people are tuning to see who will win the Masters.   

Not me!  I’m tuning in to see the best televised display of spring color in the world.

Follow our 8 Things You Need to Know to Grow Azaleas in Central Oklahoma and create your own Master’s landscape in central Oklahoma.

April Lawn & Landscape Tips

Typically, we think of April as the month landscapes turn green and burst with color.  But with the early spring and having so far escaped a late hard freeze, it feels like the beauty of April arrived in March this year.    

Even with the early start, there is still more green and color to come in April. 

Fescue will continue to deepen in color.  Bermuda will turn a little greener every day and be fully green by the end of the month.   

Every day you will discover another perennial, shrub, or tree is adding splashes of color.

April is a big month for your lawn and landscape.   It is the transition month between cool weather and warm weather and so many important tasks need our attention. 

What a spring for tulips!  The colors have been spectacular and without extreme cold or hot weather they just keep going and going and going.

April is the month Fescue lawns make a big statement. If you have fescue it is time to start mowing every 5-7 days. 

There are many varieties of Viburnum that grace the landscapes in April.

Henbit is a winter annual broadleaf weed know for purple flowers. If you want a clean lawn in April, don’t skip the two fall pre-emergent weed control applications.

April is the month Flowering Crab Apples shine!

Turf Fertilizer – Both fescue and Bermuda lawns will benefit from a fertilizer application this month. If you subscribe to the Hall | Stewart 7-Step Lawn Care Program your lawn will receive fertilizer. If you subscribe to our 4-Step Weed Control Only Program, apply fertilizer to your lawn this month.  Look for a fertilizer with 25-30% nitrogen and a small amount of phosphorus and potassium. 

It is hard to beat the deep green color of fescue in April.

Snowball bushes are stunning in the landscape this month.

Turf Weed Control – Beginning in mid-March and continuing through April, it is important to apply the second spring pre-emergent to lawns.  Pre-emergent applications gradually breakdown overtime.  The second pre-emergent extends weed prevention through the summer months.  April is a good time to get control of broadleaf weeds in Fescue, but while Bermuda is coming out of dormancy you must be careful with herbicide applications to not cause damage.  Good turf development now is the key to a healthy lawn all summer and you don’t want to cause any harm while warm season turf is coming out of dormancy. 

Our promise to you is to take all the steps we can to remedy weed issues in a way that is safe for your lawn and the environment.

Our request is that you always let us know how your lawn is doing 10-14 days after an application. 

If the lawn needs to be retreated, results will be better if it occurs within 2-3 weeks of the initial application.

Poa Annua, annual bluegrass, is a winter annual that weed that is easier to prevent with fall pre-emergent herbicides than it is in the spring.

With soil temperatures in the mid 50’s, bermuda lawns are starting to green up. As soil temperatures reach into the 60’s, they will begin to actively grow.

In the right location, a place with dappled or morning sun with acidic, well drained soil, Dogwoods add a splash of brightness to the landscape this month.

Lawn Maintenance – If you have a Fescue lawn, April is the month that you will need to start mowing regularly.  Remember the rule of 1/3 – never cut more than 1/3 of the turf off in a single mowing. Anytime you cut more than 1/3 of the leaf blade off you are keeping your lawn from looking its absolute best. Start mowing the Fescue taller in April. It needs to have as much leaf space as possible going into the summer months. 

If you have a warm season lawn (Bermuda) and have not already cut the lawn short for the spring, do so as soon as possible.  Once the lawn starts growing it will need to be mowed every 10-14 days during a typical April.   Try to keep your Bermuda lawns cut short early in the season by mowing often enough that you never remove more than 1/3 of the leaf when mowing.

Perennials come to life in April. As Creeping Phlox begins to fade Dianthus starts to add color. A good perennial planting plan ads color to the landscape from season to season.

Plant Insect and Disease – Unhealthy trees and shrubs, those that are under stress, are more susceptible to insect and disease problems.  Put your plants on your calendar for a frequent inspection.  Be ready to treat problems as they arise.

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape follows an integrated pest management approach, which starts with inspecting trees and shrubs and treating as needed.  

If you would like to subscribe to our 4-Step Tree & Shrub Care program, please give us a call, (405)367-3873, or respond to this email.

The great color of Japanese Maples is setting landscapes on fire.

Creeping Phlox, one of the first perennials to bloom, are putting on a show.

Deciduous (plants that drop their leaves in the winter) shrubs, such as abelia are coming to life.

April is full of fun surprises. One of my favorites, Peonies, close out the month.

Flowering Quince will continue to add splashes of reds to the landscape in early April.

Irrigation – As the weather warms in April, your lawn and landscape will start needing more routine watering.  If we go more than a week without a ½” rainfall, you need to start watering.  Remember to follow the odd/even watering restrictions.  If you have a rain sensor, it will interrupt the cycle when we receive rain.  If you don’t, please remember to turn your system off when we get a good rainfall. 

If you don’t have a rain sensor, consider having one installed. 

A sensor will pay for itself in water savings very quickly.

Tree & Shrub Fertilizer – Spring is a good time to fertilize trees and shrubs.  Plants use stored nutrients in the spring to force new buds and they need to be replaced. Look for a balanced fertilizer, such as 16-4-8, 12-6-6 or 12-4-8.  The amount of fertilizer needed is based on the root area.  The goal is to give the plants 2 pounds of nitrogen this spring.  Always follow label directions for the product you are using.

Shrub Pruning – April is the last chance to do early season pruning on crape myrtles, hollies and ornamental grasses.   On crape myrtles, remove any crossing or rubbing branches, cut off last year’s left-over seed heads, and any branches off that are smaller than a pencil.  Overgrown hollies can still be reduced in size if you do it soon.  The goal is to do any major pruning before the first heavy growth flush of the year.  On ornamental grasses, cut them down to about 1’ before new growth begins to shoot up from the grass clump.

Oakleaf Hydrangeas are leafing out.

April = Tulips! Take a stroll through the Myriad Gardens this week.

Seasonal Color – We all have the tendency to get a little antsy and want to plant annuals a little too early.  Who can blame you?  With all the colorful plants already in the garden centers, it is hard to resist.  But, wait until after the danger of the last frost passes in mid-April.  Start with annuals that tolerate a few cool nights, such as begonia and impatient, and wait until May to plant heat loving annuals, such as periwinkle, lantana, and penta.   Planting pansies and bulbs in the fall will give you color this time of year and allow you to wait until the best time to plant summer color.

Creeping Phlox adds interest to landscape edges and stone boarders.

Love peonies?  Look for their blooms to burst open before the end of April.

April is the month the Snowball Bush produces large masses of white snowball-like flowers.

Bridal Wreath Spirea brighten the landscapes this month.

Ornamental Peach trees are benefiting from the slow warm up this spring.

Maynight Salvia is one of the perennials that will add color this month.

Flowering Crabapple trees are demanding attention in the landscape.

One of my April favorites, Saucer Magnolia.

Start planning now to plant bulbs this fall for spring color next year.

Azaleas are adding to the spring landscape show.

What a Spring we are enjoying!

The world is full of new life!

If you have any questions about your lawn or landscape, please send us an email or call (405)367-3873.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Picture of the Week:

Dogwood - Known for the graceful flowers that arrive around Easter every spring. They are a small tree that needs to be out of the full sun making them a great understory addition to your landscape.

The Joy of Spring

Wednesday, we welcomed the official First Day of Spring.

Technically, spring arrived at 10:00 PM on Tuesday when the sun crossed the equator line, heading north, also known as the spring equinox.

Another way to put it, the First Day of Spring is when the entire world experiences an equal amount of daylight and darkness.  It only happens twice per year, but right now we are not going to even think about the other time when the sun passes the equally headed south!

What a spring it has been!  One of the brightest most can remember! Spring arrived early and just keeps on making a statement!

What defines spring for you? 

For me spring is when shrubs and trees start blooming, bulbs are adding splashes of color, fescue lawns regain their rich green color, and warm seasons grasses start to break dormancy.

Spring is everything that is happening right now in the Oklahoma City area. 

What are your favorite spring blooming plants?  

Are you like me?  Your favorite is, “All of them!” 

PERENNIALS

Creeping Phlox

Creeping Phlox.  The first to welcome spring each year.  Creeping phlox produces a spring-like carpet in pastel hues of white, lavender, red and pink.  Creeping phlox is a moderate grower that can spread up to 2’ but only reaches 4-6” in height.  It requires full sun but will tolerate a couple hours of shade each day.  Borders, walls, and around boulders are where it looks best.  In my garden, you will find it cascading over a rock retaining wall. It tolerates most soils if it is well drained.  The plant requires little maintenance.  Mites are about the only insect problem it will have.  

Dianthus

Dianthus.   It works well as a border, in small groupings, around boulders or as a single plant reaching 10-15” tall with a spread of 12-24”.  They bloom in late spring in rose, pink, white, red.  They like full sun but will take some dappled shade or afternoon shade.  Just like creeping phlox, they are a cool season lover.  They will grow in most soils, prefer alkaline soils, but waterlogged soil will cause crown and root rot.   Heavy mulching near the crown of the plant can be detrimental. Late March through April and into May is the peak bloom time.  Light feeding in the spring with a complete fertilizer of phosphorus, potassium and low nitrogen is recommended.  Other an occasional aphid or powdery mildew issue, they do not have many problems.  There are more than 300 varieties of dianthus to choose from.  My all-time favorite is ‘Firewitch’.  It has a silver-green foliage with a vibrant pink bloom.

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SHRUBS

Forsythia.

Forsythia.  Best grown as a specimen shrub where it can show off its naturally stunning shape.  Forsythia’s brilliant yellow flowers are the first to welcome spring.  It performs best planted in full sun and will grow in partial shade, only with less spring blooms.  It is considered a fast grower.  Forsythia adapts well to most soils but prefers well drained.  It rarely has an insect or disease problem.  Pruning should only occur after spring blooms fade.  If you prune later in the year, you will reduce blooms the following spring.  The best way to prune this shrub is to remove older wood all the way to the base of the shrub.  Traditional forsythia will grow to 6-8’ with an 8’ spread and are well suited for large lawns.  If you have a smaller yard, look for one of the newer varieties, such as Gold Tide (Forsythia ‘Courtasol’), a dwarf variety that only reaches 2’ high and spreads to 4’.

The first shrub to bloom…Forsythia

Bridal Wreath Spirea.

Bridal Wreath Spirea.  A medium sized shrub with arching branches covered with an abundance of white cascading flowers in mid spring.  It is a very hardy, heirloom shrub, with no specific pest issues that thrives in well drained soils.  It attracts hummingbirds and butterflies.  To preserve the natural arching shape, avoid sheering but if pruning is needed, it is best done in the spring after blooms fade.  It looks stunning planted in full sun to partial shade in front of darker structures or large hollies.  Spiraea nipponica ‘Snow mound’ is another great variety.

Bridal Wreath Spirea.

Dwarf Flowering Almond.  A somewhat temperamental shrub with wiry branches.  But somehow when it is loaded with pink and white double flowers in early spring you only see it as the perfect plant in your landscape.  They can become messy in appearance without annual pruning after the blooms drop in the spring.  They prefer sun to partial shade and are tolerant of most soils as long as they are not too wet.

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TREES

Oklahoma Redbud.

Redbud.  My all-time favorite “Welcome to Spring” plant.  (You can expect me to dedicate an entire email to this tree every spring.)  Reddish-purple blooms appear on branches before leaves appear.  The ‘Oklahoma’ variety was discovered in the Arbuckle Mountains and known for its glossy, heart shaped, green leaves in the summer.  It grows to 15’-20’.  Prefers full sun but does well as an understory tree in dabbled shade.  For more Redbud love, visit our article from last week!

Redbud.

Oklahoma Redbud

Redbud.

Redbud buds are swelling up!

Red Baron Peach

Bonfire Patio Peach.  With a mature height of 5-6’, its profuse early spring eye-level pink blooms are a real head turner.  The dark red to burgundy summer foliage keeps the interest going all season long. The small tree performs best if it receives at least 6 hours of full sunlight per day. 

Bonfire Patio Peach

‘May Night’ Salvia

‘May Night’ Salvia.  Sage type flower spikes of deep bluish-purple that will add color in April, May, and early June. The best flower show will be in full sun, but it will tolerate a little dappled shade each day.  The plant grows 12-18” tall with flower spikes reaching 24”.  The plant looks great in the middle of the garden planted behind creeping phlox or dianthus, and in front of Shasta daisy or Black-eyed Susan.  The leaves often become tattered later in the summer and become dormant over the winter. Keep faded blooms removed to maximize bloom period and pruning the plants after blooming may result in a few fall blooms. In the early spring, before new growth emerges, remove the dormant foliage.  Salvia tolerates clay soils but will struggle with root rot if the soil stays saturated. 

May Night Salvia

Dianthus and May Night Salvia

Flowering Quince.

Flowering Quince.  Another early bloomer known for adding splashes of red to the landscape.  It also performs best in full sun and tolerates partial shade but with fewer blossoms.  Considered a moderate grower and mid-sized shrub, most varieties reach 4-5’.  It does best if planted where it can grow to its natural size and shape.  If pruning is required, only prune in the spring after blooms have faded.  Flowering Quince is loved by butterflies and hummingbirds. The plant is very draught tolerant once it is established and it will tolerate most soils, but like most plants would enjoy well drained areas.  Another variety, Chaenomeles speciossa Double Take Series has blooms that resemble camellias. 

Flowering Quince buds are staring to pop.

Forsythia buds

Shrubs such as Double Play Candy Corn Spirea add interest to the spring landscape as their new foliage emerges.

Dwarf Flowering Almond

Snowball Bush is another great spring show piece that is just starting to add interest to the landscape.

Oklahoma Redbud

Crabapple.

Crabapple.  There are many varieties of crabapples, but ‘Prairifire’ is one of the best.  It was the Oklahoma Proven tree of the year in 2007.  It is disease resistant and not fazed by most of the problems with crabapples.  Flowers of rose-pink cover the tree as soon as leaves emerge.  Young leaves go from purple-red to dark green as they mature.  Branches have red fruit in the winter. Mature, 20-25’, trees have a rounded top.  Plant in full sun as a specimen tree or in a grouping.  Water extra during periods of extreme heat or draught. 

Ornamental Peach Trees add shades of pink to the March landscape.

Saucer Magnolia.

Saucer Magnolia.  A specimen type tree that reaches 15-20’.  Large blooms put on a spectacular show on multi-trunk spreading branches.  Blooms range from white to pink to purple.  Best if planted in full sun.  Plant away from radiant west or south heat where warm spring days may cause buds to develop too early only to be killed by a late freeze.  They require regular deep watering in the summer months when leaves become tattered looking.  It is best if their roots are protected with a layer of mulch to conserve water in the summer.

Saucer Magnolia.

Saucer Magnolia

Spring Bulbs

One of my favorite ways to declare spring is Hyacinths, Daffodils and Tulips!

Last October we wrote about spring flower bulbs, “Plan Now. Plant Next Month. Enjoy Next Spring.”

If you were inspired and added spring flowering bulbs to their landscapes, you have been enjoying a spring full of color.  Bulbs started blooming early and just keep adding color.

Open your calendar right now to October and write “Plan spring bulb planting!”

The bright red spring leaves of Japanese Maples are sure to catch your attention.

A friend told the story this week of an employee in a business greeting him with “What has brought you joy today?”  

What a wonderful greeting!

We hope, as the landscape burst with new life, you find joy in the beauty God creates for us every spring.

Don’t let the busyness of life rob you of the joy of spring!

Get outside.  Go on a walk.  Visit a park. 

Add a new plant to your landscape!

Spring is here!

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Oklahoma's State Tree... the Redbud!

Wow!  Are we not experiencing a wonderful early spring color show this year?  

I love the burst of color new life brings every spring!

The most dynamic of all the spring blooming trees right now is none other than our Oklahoma State Tree, the Redbud!

You have to love some of Oklahoma’s crazy state symbols: 

• Our state floral emblem is Mistletoe.  Really?  Mistletoe is an unwanted parasite that harms trees. 

• Our state vegetable is the Watermelon.  Watermelon?  Watermelon is a vegetable?  Well, come July I’ll be eating a lot of vegetables! 

But, when it comes to a state tree, Oklahoma couldn’t have selected a better tree. 

 There is no better flowering tree than the Redbud, especially the ‘Oklahoma’ Redbud.

Michael Dirr, easily considered America’s leading woody plant expert, wrote in his textbook Dirr’s Hardy Trees and Shrubs about Redbuds:

“No equal, no competitor, can be found among small flowering landscape trees – the stage is reserved for this native species.”

 I agree!

Eastern Redbuds are native to the Eastern US from Massachusetts to Florida extending west to Kansas, Oklahoma, and Texas.  In the native landscape, you typically see them as understory trees in wooded areas. 

From mid-March to early April, you can’t miss them.  Their pink to lavender flowers brighten the landscape before leaves bud on most trees.  They grow in full sun and partial shade.  They tolerate clay, loam, and sandy soils.  They adapt to a wide range of soil pH as well as soil moisture. 
 
But the native Eastern Redbud has its shortcomings.  During the summer, the leaves are a disappointment in Oklahoma.  The hot winds of July and August leave the native Redbud leaves tattered and bruised. 

 Thankfully, Oklahoma has an answer to the Eastern Redbud – the ‘Oklahoma’ Redbud, Cercis Canadensis var. texensis ‘Oklahoma’. 

The ‘Oklahoma’ Redbud has a deeper purple color bloom and a waxy, thick, dark green, heart-shaped leaf.  The ‘Oklahoma’ is far richer in color in the spring and carries beautiful foliage through the hottest of summers.  In the fall, the leaves turn golden yellow. 
 
‘Oklahoma’ Redbuds can be used in every imaginable landscape application.  They are excellent lawn trees.  They are dynamic in groupings.  And they add interest to landscape beds. 
 
Redbuds grow 15-18’ tall and have a spread of 15’ at maturity.  Their small tree nature tends to produce a low branching, rounded top-growing pattern. 
 
The Redbud rooting pattern can lead to difficulty in transplanting.  When selecting a balled and burlap tree, it is best if the tree is harvested and replanted during the dormant season.  I good size to start with is a 1.5” to 2” caliper tree.  If you are planting a Redbud during the growing season, I would recommend purchasing a container grown tree, as there is less transplant shock. 

A redbud in Oklahoma City that is starting to bud this week.

Other varieties of Redbud include:

• ‘Forest Pansy’ which has a shimmering, reddish-purple leaf.  This Redbud is a real winner in the spring.  But, in the early summer the leaves fade worse than the Eastern Redbud leaves.  If you decide to try this variety, select a place in your landscape where the tree will be shielded from the hot west sun and southern winds.

• ‘Texas Whitebud’ is a white blooming variety of the ‘Oklahoma’.  It also has waxy, dark green leaves through the summer.

• 'Avondale' is a little smaller, reaching only 10-12' in height and width.  It is one of the most profuse flowering redbuds with very showy dark rose-purple flowers.  It also has a glossy, heart-shaped leaf.

• 'Lavender Twist' is a weeping redbud with rosy-pink flowers.  The umbrella branching pattern only reaches 5-6' tall making it a good specimen for a focal point in the landscape.  

• 'Merlot' is a new hybrid with dark foliage similar to the 'forest pansy' but has glossier leaves that take the summer heat similar to the 'Oklahoma' redbud.  

• ‘Rising Sun’ rosy-lavender flowers and traditional heart shaped leaves that turn from yellow to orange maturing to lime green during the summer.  Reaches 8-10’ in height with an 8’ spread.

• ‘Flame Thrower’ a new cultivar, a cross between the Rising Sun and a weeping Redbud, introduced by North Caroline State University.  Individual leaves transition from purple to red to reddish-bronze and finally to yellow-green as they mature. 

For more Redbud varieties, click this link  https://www.monrovia.com/search/?q=redbud. 

‘Rising Sun’

Texas Whitebud

Flame Thrower

‘Rising Sun’

One final reason why I think the Redbud is one of our best trees – 

It blooms only on the old wood! Stop and look at one.  You will notice that the last 6-12” of each branch doesn’t have any blooms.  All of last year’s growth is void of color.  All the color is on the two-year and older wood, occasionally even the trunk will bloom.  Typically trees and shrubs bloom on the end of the branches.  Early blooming plants bloom on the growth from last year, such as azalea.  Summer bloomers, such as the Crape Myrtle, bloom on the new growth from the spring.  The Redbud is unique in only blooming on wood at least one year old.
 
Jim Paluch in his book, Leaving a Legacy, tells the story of seven senior citizens who discover the magic of the Redbud blooming only on old wood.  They were inspired to not spend their later years withering away.  They asked, “If a Redbud can bloom on its old wood, why can’t we?”  The seven men struck out to make a difference in their community during their elder years.
 
 

It’s spring… 

Redbuds are blooming…

Time to get outside…

Take a walk around your neighborhood…

Go on a bike ride…

Take a drive...

Better yet, go on a Redbud Scavenger hunt:

• Find the Redbud with the most dynamic color.

• Find the best Redbud in a landscape planting.

• Find the best Redbud in a native setting. 

Pictures please!

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

PICTURE OF THE WEEK:

A Royal Raindrops Crabapple in a Hall | Stewart customer’s lawn just starting to put on a spring show. When it reaches full bloom it will be covered with pink to red flowers. Foliage emerges with a wine red color and matures with burgundy tones in the summer.

March Lawn & Landscape Tips

March!  March, the month all of us lawn and landscape enthusiasts celebrate spring. 

March, the month being outdoors on your lawn, in your landscape and on your patio returns! 

March, the month full of rollercoaster temperatures!  Ouch, really?  Did we have to go there? 

But it’s true.  All the sunny 65 and over days make the occasional below freezing, winterish night hard to bear. 

Oh, I’m not talking about you and me, I’m talking about your lawn and landscape. 

Tulips are putting on an early show this spring.

One of the hardest things for your lawn and plants is to arrive at the point of buds popping, flowers bursting, and lawns breaking dormancy… and WHAM! another wintry night arrives!

Spring is arriving early this year, much earlier than the last two years.  A few years back we had a warm February, an early spring, followed by a very cool late March with a freeze.  When the freeze arrived many plants and even warm season lawns, with tender young growth, were knocked back.  That year it wasn’t until mid-May before lawns and many plants snapped out of it.

The best spring for your lawn and landscape, and yes for you too, is once we reach the point of buds swelling, green shoots appearing in the lawn, and early spring plants gracing our world with bright colors; the roller coaster temperature swings are more like a kiddy coaster and less like Six Flag’s Texas Giant. 

So, get outside.  Enjoy all the wonderful days.  Do something in your lawn and landscape. Just don’t jump the gun on planting tender annuals just yet.

Here are a few lawn and landscape tasks you should tackle this month:

Spring flowering bulbs, like these daffodils, are already cheering on the arrival of spring.

Daffodils are loving the early spring.

The bright yellow of Forsythia is a show stopper!

Spring Lawn Maintenance – Get the mower out and get started.  It is much easier to remove the winter damaged leaf blades before the turf begins to green-up.  Remember, scalping on the lowest setting isn’t required and isn’t recommended.  Simply mow the lawn at the height you plan to start the mowing season. 

For most Bermuda lawns, the second setting is recommended.  For fescue, start on the second or third notch on your mower. 

We are often asked about dethatching at this time of year. 

What is dethatching?  Dethatching is the removal of excessive thatch that builds up on the soil surface by using a vertical power rake.

But, unless you have a thick layer of ½-1” or more of thatch, dethatching causes more damage to the crown of the plants than it does good.  So, with only a few exceptions, the best method for reducing thatch is an initial spring lawn maintenance followed by aeration after spring green-up.  Unnecessary dethatching and scalping the lawn too low removes the canopy opening the lawn up to disease and weeds.

Need more info on the first mowing of the season? Check out last week’s post. 

If you haven't already, cut your fescue lawn to remove the freeze damaged leaf tips and soon the lawn will return to full color and start growing.

Lawn Maintenance – With so many warm days, soil temperatures reaching into the low 50’s, and the occasional rains, fescue lawns are regaining color every day.  Start your cool season lawn off right by maintaining it at 2 ½ - 3”.  When it starts growing mow frequently enough that you are never removing more than 1/3 of the leaf blade per cutting.  So, if you plan to maintain a 3” level, don’t allow the lawn to grow past 4.5” without giving it a trim. 

If you have warm season turf, Bermuda or zoysia, after you cut the lawn for the first time to remove the brown winter damaged leaf blades, most likely you can put off regularly scheduled lawn mowing until April.

Saucer Magnolia is a small deciduous tree with saucer-shaped white, pink or purple blooms in early spring. It makes a great specimen tree from the spectacular spring blooms to its spreading, multi-trucked shape.

Tulips have started blooming...2-3 weeks ahead of normal.

Saucer Magnolia is a spring favorite. 

Headed to Dallas in the next few weeks?  Add the Dallas Arboretum to your places to visit during their spring Dallas Blooms event, now through April 8th.

One of the first shrubs to announce spring is forsythia. Interesting tidbit: when forsythia starts blooming it is an indicator that crabgrass has started germinating. 

Lawn Weed Control – Summer annual weeds begin germinating when soil temperatures consistently reach 55 degrees.  All the above normal temperatures have soil temperatures hanging out around 50 degrees.  Unless we see an extended cold spell, we are on course to see soil temperatues consistently reach 55 degrees by mid-March.   

If you have not applied the first spring pre-emergent yet, please do so by mid-March.  Whether you apply a pre-emergent yourself, or we do it for you, always follow instructions.  Watering is a required step to move the herbicide into the top ½” of soil.

Want to know what crabgrass will do to your lawn this summer if you don’t apply a pre-emergent? 

This is the month landscapes are filled with the bright pinkish-red colors of Redbuds, the Oklahoma State tree

Bed Weed Control – March is an excellent month to apply a plant safe pre-emergent to your landscape plantings.  Use caution in selecting the product to make sure it is safe for your plants.  When possible, select a granular pre-emergent mixed with a fertilizer containing approximately 20% nitrogen. Doing so will give your plants a good spring feeding while preventing weeds at the same time.

Lawn Fertilization – This month is a good time to start fertilizing your cool season lawns.  Use a fertilizer with 25-30% nitrogen.  Cool season lawns need to be feed more in the spring and fall when they are actively growing, and less in the summer. 

If you have a warm season lawn, wait until lawns have greened up to apply the first fertilizer application. 

Hyacinth is one of the first spring blooming bulbs to add splashes of color to the landscape.

Mulch – Spring is a great time to mulch your landscape plantings.  Maintaining a 2” layer of organic mulch will reduce weed population, retain soil moisture, and provide a more consistent soil temperature for plant roots.  I find adding mulch an easier task in the spring when I am cleaning my landscape plantings for the first time. 

Irrigation – It is always important to monitor rainfall and water based on need.  Continue the best practice of watering anytime we go a week without a ½” of rain.  If possible, wait as long as possible to start watering every other day.  You will save both water and money if you water on an as needed basis for the next couple of months.

One sign of how early the spring is this year…Hydrangeas are already budding. As long as we don’t get another hard freeze, this should be spring full of color.

Flowering Quince with bright orange to red flowers is one of the first shrubs to declare spring.

Spring Seasonal Color – Pansies are the toughest winter annual color, but it is common for them to look a little freeze burned after the winter.  With the early spring, as long as the crown was not damaged, they are returning to life and blooming.  The great thing about pansies is they add color to the spring landscape until it is warm enough to plant summer annuals.    

Wait till April to plant impatient, begonia, geranium, etc.  And remember most summer annuals need the warmer soil temperatures of late April or May before they are planted.  If you get in a hurry, you will end up planting your summer annual color twice.  When planting remember most plants prefer well drained, organic soil and would prefer you add compost when planting.

Seeding Fescue – March is the second-best time to overseed fescue. But it comes in a very distant second to seeding in the fall.  Spring seeded fescue will come up very well and look very good till the summer heat arrives - then it fades quickly.  Fescue, being a cool season grass, will not establish a sustainable root system when planted in the spring.  Give your fescue lawn a chance to green up first to get a better feel on the overall condition of the lawn.  If still feel you have bare areas that need to be addressed now, seed this month but still plan on seeding again in the fall.  In most cases waiting till fall to seed is best. Fall seeding allows you to focus on weed prevention and turf development in the spring and turf establishment in the fall when it is best.

Creeping phlox is one of the first perennials to burst with color in the spring.  

Pruning – March is the time to do heavy pruning on your roses.  March is also the best time to make a major reduction in the size of hollies, boxwoods and most broadleaf evergreens.  Before spring growth arrives, you can successfully remove all the foliage back to the central leader if needed.

If you need help with any of your lawn and landscape tasks, or just have a few questions, please don’t hesitate to give us a call.  

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

The First Ritual of Spring

For many lawn enthusiasts the first ritual of spring isn’t seeing their first flowering shrub, it is the first time they fire up their lawn mower.

When February delivers as many spring like days as it has this year, the questions about the first lawn mowing are abundant.    

Let’s cover some of the most common first lawn mowing questions we field:

When is the right time for spring lawn maintenance? 

The best time is between the last week of February and mid-March.  The goal is to do it after the last chance for extended cold weather and before spring green up. 

How low do I need to cut the lawn the first time?

This will be the most often asked question over the next few weeks.

The old rule was to cut the lawn as short as the mower would go.  Homeowners would brag about getting the lawn shorter than their neighbor.  The more dirt exposed, the better. 

But why?   What is the purpose of scalping your lawn to the dirt?  Is that the best thing for your lawn?

The practice of scalping your lawn in the spring on the lowest setting isn’t needed and isn’t beneficial for your lawn.

But there is something you should do every spring – the initial spring lawn maintenance. 

It is common for Fescue to end up over 3” tall. 1.5-2” is a good starting height in the spring.

Spring lawn maintenance is the process of cutting the lawn to the height you plan to start mowing this spring. The purpose is to remove the cold damaged leaf blades allowing the crown, stolons, and rhizomes to grow. It is not good to cut the lawn so short you see dirt.

What is the difference? 

Lawn scalping is setting your mower on the lowest setting, cutting the lawn as short as possible, often exposing some soil in the process.  But, anytime you expose dirt in your lawn you are opening the opportunity for more weeds to germinate.  And, when you scalp as low as possible you run the risk of damaging the plant crown.  Damage to the crown will result in a weaker root system and a stressed lawn through spring and into the early summer. 

Spring Lawn Maintenance is the practice of setting your mower height at or just below the height you plan to start mowing for the season.  This sets the lawn up for you to  gradually increase the cutting height through the spring and summer with your lawn reaching its maximum height during the heat of late summer. If you plan to start your lawn off for the season on the second notch on your mower, then do the initial spring lawn maintenance at the same height.

Often Bermuda lawns end the season at 2-3” tall. Cutting it down to 1” is a good place to start the season.

Warm season turfs, Bermuda and Zoyia, go completely dormant during the winter, so removing the brown leaf blades is necessary.  The leaf blades (grass shoots) are damaged by the winter freezes and do not green back up.  In the spring, the crown, stolon, and tillers will green back up.  So, only leaf blades need to be removed, not the crown or stolon.

Fescue lawn before Spring Lawn Maintenance has removed the freeze damaged grass tips.

Fescue lawn after Spring Lawn Maintenance.

Should I remove the clippings or leave them on the lawn?

Bag the clippings or rake them up after mowing.  Removing the clippings is always a good practice anytime you are removing more than 1/3 of the grass blade in one mowing whether it is dormant or green.

Fescue lawn 3 weeks after Spring Lawn Maintenance

If I have a cool season lawn (fescue or rye), is spring lawn maintenance needed? 

For the best spring green up, I would recommend mowing the lawn a little shorter than you left it at the end of last season.  Fescue and rye leaf blades often have brown tips from the winter cold.  If you remove the brown leaf tips soon, your lawn will develop better color quickly as soil temperatures warm.

If you have a fescue lawn, in the next couple of weeks cut your lawn a little shorter than you left it in the fall to remove the freeze damaged leaf blades.

Should I dethatch the lawn? 

Dethatching is the process of removing excess thatch.  Thatch is the layer of undecomposed grass clippings that builds up on the soil surface.  When your lawn is healthy and you are mowing often enough, you should not have thatch build up.  This is even true if you do not catch your clippings during the growing season.  But, if you have a layer of more than 1” of thatch, dethatching is recommended.  Use a verti-cutter, also known as a power rake, to remove the thatch before spring green up.  Excessive thatch stops air, nutrients, and water from reaching the root zone and results in a shallow rooted turf. 

Aeration, after spring green up, is also an effective way of removing thatch and has the added benefit of reducing soil compaction.

In most cases, spring lawn maintenance followed by aeration after spring green up will cure thatch problems.  In over 30 years in the lawn and landscape industry, I have only seen a handful of lawns with excessive thatch problems to the point that dethatching was required.

Best Practice for Bermuda Lawns  – Anytime in the next 3 weeks, cut the lawn on your mower’s next to lowest setting and remove the clippings.  Plan to aerate your lawn in April – June to reduce compaction, improve soil structure, and move organic material into the root zone.

Best Practice for Fescue Lawns – In the next 3 weeks, cut your lawn a little lower than you left it in the fall to remove the freeze damaged leaf blades, then be ready to resume weekly mowing in mid-March. 

If you have any questions concerning the practice of spring lawn maintenance vs scalping, send us an email or give us a call. 

Our goal is to help you get your lawn off to its best start this spring.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

When is the Right Time to Apply a Pre-Emergent Herbicide?

The short answer – 

• Before weeds germinate. 

Ok, maybe we need the long answer –

The window for applying the first pre-emergent application is broad. 

• If you have already had your first application, it was done at the right time. 

• If you have not had your first application, you are NOT too late.

Summer annual weeds begin to germinate when soil temperatures reach 55 degrees.  Mid-March is the normal time for soil temperatures to reach 55 degrees.  We have seen years when soil temperatures didn’t reach 55 degrees until the last few days of March, which is what happened the last two years.  And, on occasion, we have years when soil temperatures reach the point of summer annual weed germination the first week of March. 

Pre-emergent herbicides create a blanket over a lawn preventing seeds from germinating on the soil surface.  Pre-emergent weed controls are designed to stop weed seeds from germinating.  So, as long as they are applied before weeds germinate, the timing is perfect. 

To be on the safe side, the best practice is to have the first application of pre-emergent herbicides on your lawn by the first week of March.

The warmer than normal temperatures since the first of February have convinced some tulips it is time for spring.

This year, we experienced a colder than normal January with temperatures below normal 21 of 31 days.  Then, the switch got flipped at the start of February with 11 of the 17 days so far this month with temperatures above average. 

Trees, shrubs and even tulips are starting to think spring has arrived. 

And, based on the phone calls to our office this week, the feeling of spring in the air also has many wondering if they missed the opportunity to put down a pre-emergent this year. 

You haven’t.  Soil temperatures are still well below 55 degrees.

The current 3-Day Average Soil Temperature in the Oklahoma City area is 45 degrees, 10 degrees below the temperature required for summer annual weeds to start germinating.

So….  If you have already had your first application, it was done at the right time. 

And, if you have not had your first application, you are not too late! 

Cold spells, like yesterday and today’s morning temps in the 20’s, are very common throughout February.  We can expect soil temperatures to range between the mid-40’s and low 50’s in the next couple of weeks. 

So, when is the right time to apply a pre-emergent herbicide to prevent summer annual weeds? 

Anytime in January, February or early March before weeds germinate.

There is one very important factor when it comes to the effectiveness of a pre-emergent no matter when you apply it…. Water! 

A critical factor in the effectiveness of a pre-emergent application is water.

Because crabgrass is an annual grassy weed, without a spring pre-emergent even the best lawns will have crabgrass this summer.

Watering in the application activates the herbicide creating a barrier.  A best practice is to water within 2-3 days of when the application is made.  But, quality herbicides still retain effectiveness as long as they are watered in within 10-14 days.    

Good news this winter… Since early January metro area lawns have benefited from 4 to 5 really good winter rainfalls, just right for moving pre-emergent herbicide into the soil creating a barrier against weed germination.   

There are a lot of factors that go into creating your best lawn, but the most critical at this time of year is the application of the spring pre-emergent before weeds germinate.

One indicator that soil temperatures are warm enough for summer annual weeds to start germinating is bright yellow blooms of forsythia.

Even though we have had plenty of spring like days, forsythia has not started to burst with yellow yet.

Two More Important Weed Control Details:

1.     Pre-emergent herbicides are not designed to control existing weeds in your lawn.  If you have weeds in your lawn now, a post-emergent grassy weed killer or a broadleaf weed killer must be applied.  Weeds commonly present in lawns now are winter annuals best prevented with the fall and early winter pre-emergent applications.  Control now is possible, but the sooner an application is made, the better the results will be.

Best Practice – A clean lawn in January and February is the result of effective fall pre-emergent applications.

The best way to have a weed free lawn in February is to never skip the fall pre-emergent applications.

 2.     The pre-emergent barrier gradually weakens over the season from foot traffic, mowing and periods of heavy rain.  The edges of the lawn are the first to break down.  Additionally, summer annual weeds continue to germinate throughout the season.  It is recommended a second pre-emergent application be made mid-March to early May for season long prevention.

Best Practice – A second pre-emergent application 6-8 weeks after the first application will provide season long prevention of summer annual weeds.

So, when is the right time to apply a pre-emergent herbicide?

If you have received the first application of the season, you did it at the right time.

If you have yet to receive the first application, you perfect…there is still time to prevent summer annual weeds! 

If you have any questions about pre-emergent applications, please give us a call!

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn & Landscape

(405)367-3873

Ornamental Grasses – The Single Maintenance Per Year Plant!

Ornamental grasses are a great addition to any landscape.  They are easy to grow.  They are tolerant of most soils.  Once they are established, they don’t require much water.   And, they rarely have insect or disease issues. 

Best of all - they require little maintenance. 

They need trimming only one time per year. 

The rest of the season they need little to no attention.

What is an ornamental grass? 

Most commonly they come in two forms:  medium to tall grasses and groundcovers. 

Groundcovers include Liriope and Mondo Grass.  They are often used as boarders or in mass plantings. Liriope makes a great groundcover in turf areas that are even too shady for fescue.   

Taller grasses can be used as focal point or in mass plantings.  

Ornamental grasses provide texture, color, height, and flower plumes.  They also add interest in the winter as their blades sway in the breeze. 

A few of the more frequently used grasses include Fountain Grass (including the popular Hameln), Japanese Blood Grass, Liriope, Maiden Grass, Mondo Grass, Plume Grass, Mexican Feather Grass, Muhly, and Sweet Flag.

Liriope, commonly know as Monkey Grass, makes a good ground cover. There are several varieties. Purple Explosion produces deep purple spikes in the late summer.

Pink Muhly Grass produces pinkish-purple lacy plumes in the fall.

Liriope is a great solution for areas that are too shady to grow a thick lawn. 

When do ornamental grasses need their once per year trim? 

Anytime now through early March.  The goal is to remove all the dormant top before new shoots start to develop.  If you make a cut on new shoots, the tip will keep a bruised look all season.

I prefer to wait until late winter to cut back ornamental grasses. They add interest to the winter landscape as they sway in the wind.  

Ornamental grasses need to have their dormant foliage removed before new shoots emerge this spring.

Cutting back your ornamental grasses in late winter can be a big task. But, you only have to work on the one time per year. Grasses are nearly maintenance free the rest of the year.  

Tying up the foliage first will make the job and clean-up go quicker.

Liriope and Mondo Grasses typically have freeze burnt leaf blades from winter cold spells and need to be trimmed sometime between now and mid-March.

What height does ornamental grass need to be cut? 

For pampas grasses, remove the dormant foliage to a height of approximately 12”. 

For liriope, trim to a height of 2-3”. 

Mondo Grass, particularly Dwarf Mondo, only needs a once per year trim if most of the foliage has browned.  Most springs you can use hand pruners to clip out what little brown foliage there is on dwarf mondo. 

Another exception to the once per year trim is Mexican Feather Grass.  This ornamental grass performs best if it isn’t trimmed at all.  As the grass matures, small areas will turn brown.  Gently pull the brown areas out anytime they appear. 

Mexican Feather Grass is the one exception to cutting them down in the spring. Instead, remove any brown clumps from the grass during the growing season by gently pulling them out.

What are the best tools for the project? 

For pampas grasses, use either hand hedge shears or power hedge trimmers depending on how thick the grass clumps have become.  To make the job easier, use twine to tie up the foliage before you make your cuts.  

For liriope, you can use your string trimmer, or if the area is large enough, go ahead and use the mower on the highest setting. 

Mexican Feather Grass prefers not to be cut back in the spring.  

Grouping of Mexican Feather Grass planted with Pink Muhly Grass. 

Should I divide my grasses? 

It is not uncommon for pampas grasses to die out in the center of the clump as the grass matures and grows.  Every 3-5 years it is a good idea to divide grasses in the spring.  Using a sharp shovel, simply slice through the grass.  Then replant the clump. 

Liriope can easily be transplanted after it is cut back.  Use a shovel or even a post-hole digger to dig clumps.  Liriope can be invasive.  Therefore, I find I need to dig up liriope that has spread beyond the intended area occasionally.

Dividing and replanting grasses is an inexpensive way to expand your landscape. 

Liriope, also known as Monkey Grass, should have the brown tops removed before new shoots emerge in mid-March.

When you pull back the brown tops of your liriope you will see the plants are still green. Sometime in the next 4 weeks use your string trimmer or mower to remove the brown tops.

When is the best time to plant new ornamental grasses? 

Ornamental grasses can be planted year-round in our region.  The ideal time is spring or fall.  Summer is also good, but they will require more watering until established.

A couple of good information sources for ornamental grasses:

https://www.monrovia.com/shop/by-type/grasses.html

Have more questions about ornamental grasses?  Give us a call.  (405)367-3873.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

A great combination of plants for winter interest is Reg Twig Dogwood and Ornamental Grasses.

February – Will It Deliver An Early Spring or More Winter?

February can go either way. 

Sometimes February feels like winter is never going to end.  Yet, other times February feels like spring with bulbs, shrubs, and trees bursting with color. 

After a cold January, temperatures were below normal 21 of 31 days, February is off to a spring-like start. 

I don’t know about you, but I needed this week with abundant sunshine and above normal temperatures. 

Cold or spring-like, either way, the first of February means we are getting closer to the browns of winter being replaced with the colors of spring!

If we receive a snow this February, take time to find to notice the stark red branches of the Red Twig Dogwood against pure white snow.

With springtime a month away, it is time to shake off your winter break from lawn and landscape activities and get focused on setting up your lawn and landscape for a successful year.  

If you handled some of these tasks on one of the few nice days in January, you are ahead.  But, if not, we are down to a few weeks to get your lawn and landscape ready for the next lawn and landscape season.   

Weed Control – In early January, as weather allowed, we began applying the very important first step of our lawn care program to many of your lawns.  For the best lawn this year, it is critical you have a pre-emergent herbicide applied to your turf to prevent spring and summer weeds before early March.  Many summer weeds germinate when soil temperatures reach 55 degrees, which typically occurs sometime during the first two weeks of March in central Oklahoma.  Soil temperatures are currently in the low 40’s but will reach the critical weed germination point within the next 30-40 days.  Along with applying the first pre-emergent of the year, now is the perfect time to be more aggressive in controlling existing weeds in Bermuda lawns.  If you have a fescue lawn, now is also a good time for pre and post-emergent weed control, but you must read the label and ensure it is safe for fescue before applying.  Never assume that an herbicide is okay on any turf type.

Key Point:  For the best lawn this year your lawn needs a pre-emergent application before soil temperatures reach 55 degrees in early March.

Because crabgrass is fast growing and spreads quickly, it can have a dominant presence in your lawn by May without a spring pre-emergent.

Dormant Oil – Many insects, such as scale, aphids, mites and leaf hoppers, overwinter on trees and shrubs.  Spray with a dormant oil when the temperature is above 40 degrees before the end of the month (before bud break), and you will have less insect issues on your trees and shrubs during the season.  Dormant oil can also reduce some fungal pathogens.  Caution – do not use dormant oils on needle evergreens (juniper, cedar, cypress, etc.). 

Key Point:  Dormant oils will reduce, and possibly eliminate, some insects.

Over the past few seasons Crape Myrtles have been problems with white scale. The first step in gaining control of the insect is a dormant oil treatment. 

The best time to control and prevent weeds is before warm season lawns come out of dormancy.

An application of a dormant oil this month will smother overwintering insects such as aphids.

Assuming February brings us a gradual warm up we are only 30 days away from daffodil blossoms. 

Watering – With over 2 ¼” of rainfall in the last 30 days soil moisture is really good for this time of year.  Most landscapes do not need any additional moisture at this time.  Continue to monitor rainfall and be prepared to water if needed.   If we go 7-10 days without moisture, pick a nice day and give your lawn and landscape a deep soaking.   

Key Point:  Winter plant damage is more likely to occur when plant roots are dry during an extended cold period.

It is a good practice to wrap the trunks of young Maple trees to prevent trunk damage in February and March. Commonly known as southwest injury, it is caused by sap rising on warm days followed by freezing temperatures at night resulting in damage to the bark.

Fescue lawns will return to a rich dark green sometime between the last week of February and the last week of March when soil temperatures and moisture are just right.

Fescue – With a run of over 100 consecutive hours below freezing and a low below zero in January, fescue lawns lost the color they carried through the holidays and are now a freeze-burn, brown color. If there only been just a couple of inches of snow to go with the cold temperatures, fescue would have lost some color but would have maintained an overall green hue. 

One of the most frequent calls we received this week started with “My fescue isn’t looking very good.”   

We could be only three weeks away from seeing spring color!

What can you expect from your fescue in February?  It all depends upon temperatures and moisture. Every year there is a turning point when temperatures rise, there is abundant moisture and almost overnight, fescue lawns regain their rich green color.  A full recovery can happen as early as mid-February or as late as mid-March. 

Key Point:  Hold your judgment on the condition of your fescue lawn for another 4-6 weeks.

Soil Test – If your lawn did not respond as expected to fertilizer last year, you may have a soil problem.  It is a good idea to have your soil tested every three to four years to ensure the soil will continue to yield a healthy landscape. A soil analysis will provide you with the pH and levels of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.  A pH range of 6.0 to 7.5 is acceptable for most plants.

Using a spade take 10-12 samples of soil from the top 6”.  It is best to test turf soil and landscape planting soil separately.  Mix in a bucket and remove roots and debris.  Place about 2 cups of soil in a plastic zip lock bag. Take the sample to your locale Oklahoma County Extension Center. 

The Oklahoma County’s center is located 2500 NE 63rd St, Oklahoma City, OK 73111.  For a nominal fee they will have the soil tested and send you the results along with recommendations in approximately two weeks.

Or, if you would like us to handle this for you, respond to this email or call (405)367-3873.  We will gather a sample, deliver it to the lab, call you to discuss the findings, and prescribe a soil amendment plan if needed. 

Key Point:  For the best lawn and landscape, have your soil tested every two to three years.

One of the first announcements of spring comes from the bright golden yellow of the forsythia. When will it declare spring this year?  Before the end of February?  Or March?

Last year, forsythia started blooming on February 25.

Tree Pruning – Continue to work on tree pruning with the goal of completing maintenance and restorative pruning before trees’ leaf in March. 

For more information on tree pruning, follow this link to our December 2023 Tree Pruning article: https://www.hallstewart.com/hsblog/2020/12/6/this-winter-more-than-ever-your-trees-need-some-attention?rq=tree

If you planted daffodil bulbs in November or December, this is less than 30 days away!

Lawn Maintenance – Continue to keep leaves and debris removed from the landscape.  Later this month or early in March, cut the lawn for the first time.  It is not necessary to scalp the lawn all the way to the soil.  We recommend cutting the lawn at or just below the height you desire to maintain it at during the spring and early summer. 

Lawn Equipment – If you mow your own lawn, February is a perfect time to get your mower ready for the new season.  I am a firm believer in having your lawn mower professionally serviced every winter. Not only will you have less mower headaches during the season, you also can expect a longer mower life.  Most shops offer a winter tune-up special where they put in a new spark plug, change the oil and filter, replace the air filter if needed, put in fresh fuel with stabilizer, and sharpen the blade. 

Odds are there will be a little more winter yet to come, so enjoy the spring-like days February is delivering right now.

We can’t wait to get to spring with “trees of green, red roses too.” 

Continue to take advantage of every pretty day you can to get your lawn and landscape ready for a wonderful 2024!

If you need help with any of these tasks or have questions, please give us a call.

Lorne Hall

 Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Dallisgrass – The “Address It As Soon As You See It” Weed

VIEWER DISCRETION ADVISED: 

This email may not be suitable for all lawn and landscape lovers.

WARNING:  This week’s post does not contain any pretty lawn and landscape pictures.  Only ugly pictures of dallisgrass infestations.  If you only click on our emails for inspiring pictures, please do not continue.  We promise to return to normal content next week. 

Often the content of our weekly emails is the result of what we are seeing in lawns and landscapes.  This time of year, while doing lawn evaluations for soon to be Hall | Stewart clients, it is common to encounter lawns with dallisgrass issues.

Let’s spend a few minutes learning about this invasive weed and learn why it is so important to “address it as soon as you see it.”

Dallisgrass is a perennial grassy weed that was introduced to the US from Uruguay and Argentina in the 1800’s by A.T. Dallis as a fast-growing forage plant.  Unfortunately, dallisgrass liked the environment a little too well and soon was growing out of control. 

Dallisgrass is a grassy perennial weed that is very noticeable this time of year in dormant bermuda lawns.

How fun would it be to bring to market a plant that is beneficial for generations to come and have it named after you!   Poor A.T., he thought he was helping, but instead of a plant people love named after him, he has a weed with his name that is the catalyst for a lot of foul language.

Dallisgrass is often confused with crabgrass. Crabgrass is an annual, meaning it dies every winter and can be completely prevented with a pre-emergent. While dallisgrass is a perennial, a pre-emergent will prevent the spread of new clumps but repeated post-emergent grassy weed control is required to eradicate existing clumps.

What is Dallisgrass?

Dallisgrass is a coarse textured perennial that grows in an ever-enlarging circular clump and is often confused with crabgrass.  

A perennial is a plant that comes back year after year.  Dallisgrass goes dormant during the winter, but the rhizomes do not die.  In the spring, new growth appears from the roots.

Dallisgrass has short underground rhizomes that gradually grow outward.  It has wide ¼ to ½” leaf blades that grow 4-12” long when not mowed.   

Mature clumps typically have dying centers while the outer edge continues to grow smothering turfgrass as it spreads.

Individual plants increase in size while new clumps start from weed seeds.   

Dallisgrass flourishes in all soils, sandy to clay, but is partial to compacted, wet soils. 

Dallisgrass is a very common problem for lawns throughout the south from coast to coast.

How To Control Dallisgrass

1.     Healthy Turf - As with all weeds, maintaining a healthy, dense turf is the first step.  Good mowing, watering, fertilizing and aeration practices result in a thick turf leaving less area for dallisgrass seeds to come in contract with and germinate.  Thin turf and bare soil areas are an invitation to all weeds, especially dallisgrass.

2.     Pre-Emergent Applications – Although dallisgrass is a perennial, it does produce an abundance of seeds that are spread by wind, animals and lawn equipment.  Pre-emergent applications will not control existing dallisgrass, but it will prevent it from allowing more clumps to develop in your lawn. Seeds germinate in 60-65 degree soil temperatures, a few weeks after crabgrass germinates. 

The second spring pre-emergent application between mid-March to early May is critical in stopping the spread of dallisgrass.

Dallisgrass goes dormant in the winter but the rhizomes stay alive and often keep some green color near the soil surface.

Dallisgrass grows outward smothering turfgrass as it spreads. Over time the center of the weed dies out while the rhizomes continue to spread.

3. Selective Post-Emergent Applications – Grassy weed control products labeled for crabgrass will work on dallisgrass, but repeat applications are required every 2-3 weeks until the rhizomes are completely dead.  MSMA was the go-to product for years, but it is no longer available for home lawn use.  One product labelled for homeowner use is Weed-B-Gone Crabgrass Killer.  Always follow label instructions.  Know your type of turf, and make sure the product is labeled for your turf type.  Licensed lawn care professionals have restricted use herbicides available to use that provide better control of dallisgrass.   

This lawn was overtaken with dallisgrass when we started working on it last spring. The owner agreed to allowing us to use glyphosate early in the growing season to aggressively control dallisgrass resulting large bare areas. Over the summer, most of the areas recovered.  But another year of good turf management practices and this lawn is needed to return the lawn to looking great. Control of dallisgrass and recovery is often a two year process.

4, Non-Selective Post-Emergent Application – The best control of large areas of dallisgrass infestations where there is little to no desirable turfgrass remaining is to treat with glyphosate.  Glyphosate is a non-selective herbicide, meaning it kills everything it comes in contact with.  Repeated applications are still required.  If spot treating clumps of dallisgrass in your lawn, take care not to allow the spray to reach desirable turf.  Once the weed is completely killed, rhizomes included, resodding may be required. 

5. Digging It Out – The most environmentally friendly, but the most time consuming and physically demanding, is to dig out the invasive weeds.  A good step in preventing a dallisgrass outbreak is to dig out small clumps, rhizomes and all, as soon as you see them in your lawn.

Large areas of dallisgrass where little to now desirable turfgrass remains are best completely killed out with a non-selective herbicide and then resodded.

Non-selective herbicides were used in June to control dallisgrass in this lawn. After the dallisgrass was completely controlled, the areas were sodded with Bermuda. 

Dallisgrass grows faster than turfgrass spoiling a well maintained lawn and landscape.

Because dallisgrass is a perennial, persistence is required.  Total eradication of a large area may take more than one season.  Multiple treatments over a two-year period can be expected.

It is one of the more difficult to control weeds homeowners will face and the longer it has been established the harder it is to gain control. 

Address dallisgrass as soon as you see it.  The longer you wait the more invasive it will become.

If you have dallisgrass problems, or if you need help in identifying dallisgrass, please give us a call or respond to this email.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

The goal is to have a clean and healthy lawn this summer. It is critical you address dallisgrass as soon as you see it.

Japanese Maples – Year Round Interest

With over 140 hours of the past 7 days below freezing with very little snow cover, our lawns and landscapes look as if they have been left uncovered in the deep freeze and are now suffering from a bad case of freezer burn.

After a long cold week of long johns, heavy coats and gloves, I doubt you are looking for a list of lawn and landscape tasks to accomplish over the next few days.

So, go ahead, pour yourself another cup of coffee, grab a blanket, and head to your comfy chair closest to the fireplace and spend a few minutes dreaming about beautiful landscapes.

Specifically, let’s dream of Japanese Maples – The Aristocrat of the Landscape

Japanese Maples are sure to add bright colors to your fall landscape.

Michael Dirr, author of the Dirr’s Hardy Trees and Shrubs textbook, writes: 

“True aristocrats are rare among people and trees, but Japanese Maple is in the first order. 

It is difficult to imagine a garden that could not benefit from one of the many forms of Acer palmatum.

The normal habit is round to broad-rounded, with the branches assuming a layered,

almost stratified architecture similar to Flowering Dogwood. 

Leaves are light green to dark green, to reddish purple. 

Fall color is sensational with rich yellow and reds through the fall. 

The winter silhouette is attractive, providing interest during the off season. 

Landscape uses for the species and its many cultivars are limited only by

the imagination of the gardener.”

Japanese Maples have added spectacular color to the fall landscape this year. Garnet is a graceful small variety with lacy leaves and a weeping growth habit.

A few things everyone needs to know about Japanese Maples:

Site

Japanese Maples grow well from zone 5-8, making them a good choice for Oklahoma City’s zone 7.  They perform best when planted in dappled sun to shade and out of direct afternoon sun.  Shade does have its limits…they need some sun for the best fall foliage color.  During the summer heat, it is common for them to experience some leaf scorch, especially if they receive direct sun.  They prefer well-drained soil and consistent moisture.  During the heat of the year, you can expect them to need extra deep watering the first couple of seasons. But once they are established, they are essentially carefree. 

Monrovia, a leader in the development and growing of landscape plants, refers to “Japanese Maples a statement plant…one of the most compelling plants you can add to your landscape.”

With over 1,000 varieties and cultivars of the Japanese Maples, there has to be one perfect for your landscape.

Tamukeyama Japanese Maple has deep red-purple leaves through the summer and bright red fall foliage. With cascading branches it grows in a mounding shape 10’ fall and 10’ wide.

Coral Bark Japanese Maples have pale green leaves in the summer, Golden yellow fall color, and bright red-coral branches in the winter.

Coral Bark Japanese Maple

Japanese Maples are a staple landscape plant that will add interest to a landscape year round.

A mature Japanese Maple, such as this Bloodgood, will grow in full sun locations where the soil is shaded.

Size & Form

Japanese Maples range from a few feet tall to 25’.  Considered a deciduous small tree or shrub, there are rounded, dwarf, weeping, upright, cascading, single trunk, multi-trunk…. varieties. 

How can you use a Japanese Maple in your landscape? 

You can create a solitary specimen as a spotlight in the landscape.

You can plant them in a group as a grove.  

Or, you can use them in large containers.

Leaves from a Bloodgood Japanese Maple cover the ground with a red carpet as they drop from the tree.

Leaf Shape

Japanese Maple foliage is divided into two types: traditional maple type, 2-5” wide palm-shaped with 5-7 lobes, or delicate and lacy. 

Japanese Maples varieties will have either traditional maple shaped leaves or delicate and lacy leaves like this weeping variety.

Green and red Japanese Maples planted in a group to create a grove.

Bloodgood Japanese Maples make a bold statement in April when their leaves emerge a brilliant red.

Leaf Color

Japanese Maples are among the most wide-range, colorful trees.  The foliage ranges from red, green, orange, deep red-purple and bright red-pink depending on the time of year.  Some leaf out brilliant reds in the spring, change to green in the summer, and finish the year in bright reds, yellows and oranges.  Other varieties start red in the spring, keep a red cast all summer keeping the red color through fall. 

Monrovia’s website is a great place to explore Japanese Maples.

Fun Fact – Fried maple leaves are a very popular snack in Japan.  The city of Minoh is famous for their fired maple leaves.  The leaves are dipped and fried in tempura batter.   

How To Plant A Japanese Maple

1. Dig a hole twice as wide as the tree container and a few inches deeper.

2. Backfill the bottom of the hole with a mixture of the soil from the site and a compost material (Back to Nature or Landscape Grower’s Mix are a couple of favorites).  Tamp firmly the soil in the bottom of the hole.

3. Place the tree in the hole with the top of the root ball approximately 2” higher than the surrounding grade.

4. Back fill halfway with your soil and compost mixture.

5. Lightly tamp down the soil and water well.

6. Finish filling around the tree.

7. Mulch with a 2” layer of a Grade A Cedar Mulch and water well.

Japanese Maples are a great staple plant for every landscape. If you don’t have one, you should consider adding a Japanese Maple to your landscape this year.   

Oh, you have one?  Don’t you think you should add another?

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Winter & Your Landscape

It’s January and the local weather forecasters are warning us about winter weather approaching in the days to come.

What does winter weather mean for your lawn and landscape? 

For young trees and trees with thin bark, wrapping the trunk in the winter will protect the tree from damage due to freezing and thawing temperatures.

If you have perennials or winter annuals such as pansies or kale, winter moisture is critical to their performance going into the spring.

Fescue lawns will retain more color in the winter and rebound quicker in the spring if they are not allowed to become bone dry during the winter.

Newly sodded lawns, due to a shallow root system, can experience freeze damage if the roots are dry during a winter cold spell.

Finally, all newer landscapes, those installed in the last two years require a little more watering attention over the winter.

The goal is to make sure the top few inches of soil is moist well ahead of freezing temperatures.  Roots are still active and providing moisture for the plant.  Once the soil freezes, the roots no longer have the ability to replace moisture lost to transpiration. 

Our rule of thumb is to keep your irrigation operational through the winter, monitor the weather, and be ready to water once every 7-14 days if we have not received a good rainfall.

Biggest Winter Issue – Lack of moisture

Lack of adequate soil moisture is often a major cause of winter damage.  All lawns, shrubs, trees, perennials, and annuals need moisture during the winter.  This is particularly true about evergreens.  Remember, your lawn and landscape are dormant, not dead, and moisture is still important.  

Most winter plant injury occurs when we receive a harsh cold spell while plant root systems are dry.

Winter watering is particularly critical for evergreen shrubs and trees.  Windy days zap the moisture stored in their leaves making them sensitive to winter injury when we receive a harsh cold snap when they are dry.

Windy and cold winter temperatures dry needle and evergreen plants foliage. It is important they have moist soil for the days leading up to extreme winter weather.

Shallow-rooted plants, such as azalea and Japanese maple, are also prone to winter injury when they do not receive regular moisture during dormancy.

Newly planted landscapes need additional water in the winter for the first two years until the roots are established in the native soil.

Current Watering Recommendation:

We received ¼” of rain this week.  If we do not receive at least a ½” of rain early this week, give your lawn and landscape a good deep soaking before the next cold front arrives.

First Step in Avoiding Winter Damage – Select plants that are winter hardy in our area.

Plant cold hardiness is based on the USDA Hardiness Zones.  Central Oklahoma is Zone 7A.  Plants with a 7A rating can withstand temperatures of 0 to 5 degrees.  Northern Oklahoma is Zone 6B, -5 to 0 degrees.  And southern Oklahoma is Zone 7B which can survive temperatures of 5 to 10 degrees.

If you live in central Oklahoma and are tempted to experiment with a plant that grows best in Zone 7B, plant it in a protected area that is shielded from dry winter winds.

Also, when selecting plants, look for plants that perform well in our tighter, clay soils.  A 7A plant that grows best in loose soil may live for years when we have mild winters only to fail when we have a winter of extreme temperatures.

When making plant selections, don’t overlook ones that add winter interest such as Nandina with their bright red berries.

The best weather for your plants during extreme temperatures is a snowfall of 2 or more inches.

Snowfall is moisture!

If we get a ½” rainfall, there is a lot of runoff.  But, when the snow melts, it slowly soaks in.  Every single drop benefits the roots of your turf, flowers, shrubs, and trees.  On average, a 4” snow equals nearly a 1/2” rainfall. 

The Old Farmer’s Almanac calls snow a “poor man’s fertilizer.”

Snow is full of nitrogen.  As snow falls it collects nitrogen that is naturally in the air and distributes it evenly over your lawn and landscape.

Best Weather Condition for Extreme Cold – Snow.

Fresh snow is like a warm blanket when temperatures dip into the teens or lower!

Snowfall is nature’s way of insulating your valuable landscape from cold temperatures.  A fresh snow cover of more than 2” is very beneficial to the landscape by trapping soil warmth below the snow. 

Without snow, soil temperatures fluctuate more, dipping deeper during cold spells.  It is common for soil temperatures to be as much as 10 degrees warmer when there is a snow cover. 

Your landscape is thankful for a blanket of snow to trap the warm soil temperatures around its roots and keep the cold windy temperatures at bay.

A Key to Preventing Winter Damage – Healthy Plants.

Rarely does a healthy plant die due to winter injury.  Plants in poor health are the first to die during cold periods. 

Keep your plants healthy during the growing season and they will be better suited for the winter cold.  Inspect often for insects and disease.  Make sure they are receiving the correct nutrients in the correct amounts.  Practice good watering techniques throughout the growing season. 

The healthier your plants, the better they will do in the extreme temperatures of winter.

One More Great Winter Practice – Mulch.

A fresh 2-3” layer of mulch will provide insulation for your plant roots, retain moisture, and moderate soil temperatures.  

As always, let us know if you have any questions or if we can help you have your best lawn and landscape.

And…stay warm…. after all, it is January.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Merry Christmas!

Christmas…the season of hope!

What are you hoping for this Christmas?  The top item on your wish list?  Time with family and friends?  Joy?  Health?

 

Hope is a feeling of expectation and desire for a certain thing to happen.

Everyone is hoping for something.

But, what happens when the thing you are hoping for does not happen? 

The feeling of hope is replaced with a feeling of disappointment.  When the feeling of disappointment lingers it is easy to find ourselves feeling hopeless.  Hopelessness is the feeling of despair about something.

I don’t like the feelings of disappointment.  I really don’t like the feeling of hopelessness.  We have all been there.  Especially when we have placed our hope in finances, relationships, health, and careers…...

But this is Christmas… the celebration of real hope! 

A hope that does not disappoint! 

A hope that erases hopelessness!

Christmas, the celebration of the birth of Christ.

Christmas, the celebration of the birth of hope and love for all mankind.

May your entire holiday season be filled with the true hope and love of Christ!

Merry Christmas from your friends at Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

Small Trees in the Landscape

A few times we have posted an article titled Great Landscapes Have Three Levels. In the article, we mention the use of small trees as one of the ways to create three levels. 

Wintertime, with fewer lawn and landscape maintenance activities dominating your time, is the perfect time to evaluate your landscape.  Let’s spend a few minutes learning about the importance of small trees in the landscape.

Reasons For Using Small Trees

Small trees often are the punctuation points of your landscape.  They are the anchor plants that give the landscape balance. 

Small trees are the stars of the landscape with the rest of the landscape playing a supporting role.

Often, they are the first to be placed in the design and commonly the first to be planted. 

• Small trees add height, color, and texture to the landscape.

• They complement the landscape.

• They direct the eye to key features or views.

• Small trees can frame a house or an entry.

• They can be used to create privacy or screen an undesirable view.

• Small trees give the landscape balance.

Small trees are defined as those that have a mature height of 12-30’. 

Small trees are typically multi-stemmed but can be a single trunk plant as well. 

The list of small trees is long.

Here are a few to consider:

Redbud

Redbud – There are many varieties, but the Oklahoma Redbud stands out as a great landscape specimen with vibrant pink-purple flowers on bare branches in the early spring and glossy heart-shaped leaves during the growing season.  15-20’ tall and wide.

Redbud

Redbud

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Japanese Maple

Japanese Maple

Japanese Maple – A favorite small tree for the north or east side of a house.  There are weeping, upright, and spreading varieties.  Varieties with red leaves, purple leaves, green leaves, and yellow leaves.  Their color and texture create interest in any shady to dappled sun area.  10-25’ high and wide.

Japanese Maple

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Saucer Magnolia

Saucer Magnolia – Large saucer-shaped blooms of white, pink, or purple in the early spring on spreading multi-trunk branches.  20’ tall and 20’ wide.

Saucer Magnolia

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Crape Myrtle

Crape Myrtle – Our longest summer blooming plant with so many colors and growth habits to choose from there has to be one just right for any landscape.  12-30’ tall and 10-20’ wide.

Crape Myrtle

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Dogwood

Dogwood – White or pink blooms in the late spring. Great for areas protected from the afternoon sun or as an understory accent tree.  15’-20’ tall and wide.

Dogwood

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Rose of Sharon

Rose of Sharon – A graceful vase-shaped small tree that adds a tropical look to the landscape.  A mid-summer to fall bloomer available in shades of white, red, pink, lavender, and blue.  15’ tall and 10’ wide.

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Chaste Tree

Chaste Tree – Also known as Vitex, has summer lilac-colored blooms with grayish-green foliage on a broad, spreading multi-trunk frame.  15-20’ tall and wide.

Chaste Tree

Chaste Tree

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Smoke Tree

Smoke Tree - Varieties of purple or yellow foliage with airy smoke-like plumes in the summer.  15’ tall and 10’ wide.

Smoke Tree

Smoke Tree

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Taylor Juniper

Taylor Juniper - Narrow columnar evergreen with bluish-green foliage creating a formal elegant look.  Also, can be used to create screening or privacy.  25-30’ tall and only 3’ wide.

Taylor Juniper

Taylor Juniper

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These are only a few small trees to consider.  The list could go on and on.  

How have you used small trees in your landscape?

What small trees do you have in your landscape?

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873