June Lawn & Landscape Tips

Hello Summer!

June… what a great month for your lawn and landscape!

June is the month when both cool season and warm season turf look great.  

June is the month when an abundance of perennials add color to the landscape. 

June is the month when shrubs are covered with soft, tender new foliage and so many blooming shrubs are adding splashes of color.

June is the month summer blooming trees start adding color to our world.

June is the month I discover another favorite tree, shrub, perennial or summer annual color every year.  What will be my favorite this June? 

June is the month that I know there is a good chance around every corner I’m going to stumble upon another fantastic lawn and landscape.

Awe…June is the month when all your lawn and landscape work this spring rewards you with enjoyable evenings on the patio.

Wait…don’t get too comfortable, it is summer and your lawn and landscape needs attention:

June is the month for day lilies to add splashes of color to the landscape.

Mowing – Good mowing practices will have the biggest impact on the quality of your lawn over the summer months.  For the best summer turf, get into a routine of mowing often enough that you only remove 1/3 of the leaf blade with each mowing.  For Bermuda and zoysia, both warm season turf grasses, this may require mowing every 4 to 5 days.  If you mow this often, don’t bag your clippings.  The top 1/3 of the grass leaf is 90% moisture and nutrients.  The best summer height for warm season turf is 1.5 – 2.5”.  Fescue, cool season turf grass, will continue to grow rapidly during early June, but once we consistently have temperatures in the upper 90s it will begin to slow down.  The best height for cool season turf in the summer is 3.0 – 3.5”.  Both warm season and cool season turfs, don’t respond well to being cut below their recommended height. Cutting the lawn too short discourages root development and having deep roots going into the summer heat is important for both warm and cool season turf.

Fertilizer – Bermuda lawns should be fertilized this month with a higher nitrogen, slow-release fertilizer.  The goal in June is to create a healthy Bermuda lawn that will thrive in the summer heat.  Fescue lawns should only receive low nitrogen, root stimulating fertilizer during June to prepare them for the summer heat.

One of the biggest concerns we have for fescue lawns right now is too many are being cut too short.  Cool season lawns will do better in the summer heat with more leaf space.  If you have a fescue lawn, gradually raise your mower to at least 3” this month.  I started mowing my fescue lawn a ½ notch higher in May and will increase it another ½ notch this week.

Weed Control – If you subscribe to Hall | Stewart’s Lawn Care Programs and have not skipped any applications this year, your lawn has had two pre-emergent applications.  This will provide your lawn with a good barrier to prevent summer annual grassy weeds.  But, if not, you may have some grassy weeds, most common is crabgrass, showing up in your lawn.  June is a good month to control grassy weeds while they are still young plants.  Once they mature, stronger products will need to be used which can cause turf damage.  If nutsedge is making an appearance in your lawn it is best not to pull it.  When you pull nutsedge and do not remove the nut below the surface, the plant becomes stressed and multiplies. 

You can expect to see Black Eyed Susans, a perennial brighten the landscape this month.

Crabgrass is a very fast growing summer annual grassy weed. If you did not get a pre-emergent on your lawn early this year, you are almost certain to have crabgrass growing in your lawn. Treat now with a grassy weed control herbicide. If you wait until July to control, harsh products that will damaged desirable turf will have to be used.

Tree & Shrub Care – The best thing you can do for your trees and shrubs this month is give them your attention.  Make it a routine to walk around the landscape looking for plants that just don’t look their best.  Most insects are great at camouflage and are hard to spot before you have damaged leaves.  Start watching for spider mites.  If you notice pale and specked foliage, shake the leaves over a white sheet of paper.  If you see tiny specks that start to move, you have spider mites and should schedule a treatment.  Be on the watch for bagworms on needle evergreens.  When they are young, they are hard to spot.  If you notice your evergreens losing color, there is a good chance bagworms are the problem.  With all insect and disease issues we subscribe to an integrated pest management approach.  With our Tree & Shrub Program, we inspect for issues with each visit.  Most problems are easier to control the earlier you notice them.  If you notice any issues with your plants, please let us know.

If you notice pale or speckled foliage on boxwood shrubs, shake a branch over a white paper. If you see tiny specks that start to move, you need to spray for spider mites.

As temperatures warm up in June be on the lookout for aphids.

Soft scale can be a problem on Redbud trees. A small 1/16-1/8”, reddish, oval scale that is often found on small twigs and can cause small branches to die if not treated. A treatment plan in late winter with a dormant oil with follow-up treatments in late spring and early summer with a horticultural oil is required.

The lacy blooms of June are a wonderful contrast to the big leaves of the Oak Leak Hydrangea.

A benefit on not having a late cold spell this spring…Crape Myrtles are already starting to bloom.

I’m always on the look out for new landscape plant materials. This year we have planted a few Orange Rocket Barberry. Typically Barberries have an oval or spreading growth pattern. But the Orange Rocket is known for its upright, compact growth habit.

Bag worms start out small and hard to see. Take time to inspect your needle evergreen shrubs this month.

Bagworms start out very small and are hard to see. Take time to inspect your needle evergreens before they cause damage.

Annual Color — Sunpatien and Joseph’s Coat

Endless Summer Hydrangeas will make their first big burst of color this month.

Shasta Daisies, a perennial, will bloom from early June through mid-summer. They make great cut flowers.

Who cant help but fall in love with Oakleaf Hydrangeas at this time of year. Their brilliant large flowers demand attention.

Later this month Mimosa trees will add bright pink, feathery flowers to the landscape.  

Shrub Pruning – June is the last month to prune spring blooming shrubs.  Spring blooming shrubs start setting flower buds by mid-summer.  A few examples of spring blooming shrubs: forsythia, quince, bridal wreath spirea, and azalea.  If the shrub is overgrown, use thinning cuts to reduce the size and increase air flow into the center of the plant.  Make thinning cuts by removing branches back to the main trunk or another branch.  If the shrub only needs a little shaping, make heading cuts near the end of branches.  But, remember that all shrubs will perform at their best if they are allowed to grow without heavy pruning or shearing.   

Planted in mass Stella D’oro Daylily’s add bright splashes of yellow to the landscape during June.

If your Azaleas have become overgrown or need shaping, June is your last chance to prune them before they start setting buds for next spring.

Watering – “How much to water” may be one of the most misunderstood aspects of managing a lawn and landscape.  Develop the practice of watering based only on need.  During the summer months, anytime we get a ½” rain or more, turn your system off for a few days.  Depending on afternoon temperatures, a 1” rainfall may save you a week’s worth of water.  The converse is true as well.  If we go a week without receiving a 1” of rainfall, you need to be watering.  Another clue it is time to start watering… when you walk on the lawn, if the grass doesn’t spring back up and your footsteps remain in the lawn, it is time to start watering.  Remember, deep soakings are always better than short, frequent watering.  Shallow, frequent watering results in lawns with less roots and more dependent on water.  Throughout the summer make it a habit to inspect your landscape and adjust.  Don’t set your irrigation controller at the beginning of the season, never touching it again until the fall.

My watering goal for June is a good deep soaking every 4 days.  If temperatures stay under 90 degrees and we get occasional rain, I’ll save money and water, and still have a great lawn and landscape.  The key to this plan is taking a little time to monitor and adjust.

Trumpet Vine

Mulch – Add mulch to your landscape plantings this month.  A 2” layer of mulch will retain moisture, cool the soil, and reduce weed germination.  We prefer premium shredded all bark cedar mulch because it doesn’t float as much and aesthetically looks great.  For acid-loving plants such as hydrangeas and azaleas, pecan hulls or pine bark mulch is a great choice.   

Endless Summer Hydrangea

Goldflame Spirea

Annual color planting of Joseph Coat, Sunpatien, and Marigold make a great yellow/orange color scheme.

Brown Patch – Be on the lookout for brown patch in your fescue lawn. June is the most active month for this disease in fescue lawns.  Anytime nighttime temperatures are 70 degrees plus and the turf remains damp for over 6 hours at a time, brown patch will develop. Areas where there is little air movement and/or heavy shade are more prone because the turf stays wet longer.  Brown patch will make the lawn appear it needs more water, but watering will just make it worse.  So, before you water more, think about the site, the amount of shade, the air movement in the area, and the amount of moisture the area has received.  The best thing you can do if this problem occurs is to stop watering.

One of the most self-inflicted problems with fescue lawns is watering practices that promote the development of brown patch.  Always allow your fescue time to dry out between waterings.  Avoid watering fescue in the evening during the summer.

If you subscribe to Hall | Stewart’s 7-Step Lawn Care Program and have fescue, you will receive a fungicide this month designed to suppress the brown patch fungus.

Brown Patch will make fescue look like it needs more water, but the problem is actually the result of the leaf blades staying wet for over 6 hours at a time when nighttime temperatures are in the 70s.

Yarrow is a perennial that produces yellow flowers in late May and early June.

Also, Cone Flower, another summer perennial will make a showing in June.

There are many varieties of Spirea’s with yellow and green foliage that put on blooms in the early summer.

Anthony Waterer Spirea is a medium sized shrub that is covered with pink flowers in late May and early June.

Aeration – Mechanical aeration is a “best” practice for any lawn.  Aeration reduces soil compaction, promotes root development, and thickens the turf.  May and June are the best months to aerate Bermuda.  This one practice will make a significant difference in the quality of your turf.  The stronger the turf, the less weed problems you will experience.

Insects – Regularly scheduled treatments for fleas & ticks, mosquitos, and perimeter insect control around your house should continue during the summer.  The goal is to make outdoor living for your family and pets the best possible.

Southern Magnolia trees produce large white flowers in early summer. Teddy Bear and Little Gem Dwarf Southern Magnolia are great plants for smaller landscapes.

Texas Red Yucca produce tall red flowering spikes this month. There are several varieties. Brakelights Res Yucca is a favorite.

Awe…June…Spend time outside, in your lawn and landscape, enjoying the beauty every day!

If you have any questions, please send us an email or call.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Crape Myrtle – Our Longest Blooming Plant

The Crape Myrtle may hold the distinction of the landscape plant that took the biggest beating over the last 9 months and yet most survived.  Between the early ice storm last October and the extreme cold of February, the environment was difficult for Crape Myrtles.  Some weaker plants didn’t make it leaving us with holes in the landscape.  The low temperatures of February killed some of our older, majestic Crapes back to their roots leaving us with more shrub-shaped plants than trees this year.  But, even though the Crape Myrtle landscape looks different this year, it is summer, and Crapes are once again adding color to our landscapes. 

Crape Myrtles are our longest blooming plant.  While most blooming trees and shrubs put on a show for only a few days or a few weeks, the Crape Myrtle starts adding color to the landscape as soon as summer heat arrives in late-June to early-July and doesn’t stop until the first frost.

If your landscape has a void because of winter damage, consider adding a Crape Myrtle.  With over 50 varieties of Crape Myrtles and new ones introduced every year there must be one perfect for your landscape. 

Last summer this large Crape Myrtle was focal point of the landscape of this 90 year old house.

Unfortunately, the Crape Myrtle didn’t survive the winter freeze. But, all is not lost. The deadwood has been removed. New growth will be allowed to grow in a shrub form this season. Next spring,  5-7 of the best stems will be selected and all the rest will be removed.  Corrective pruning will happen every spring until the tree-sized shape of the old Crape Myrtle is regained.

Even this old Tuscarora Crape Myrtle had to be cut to the ground this spring, it still couldn’t be stopped from bursting with color this week.

Crape Myrtles are great pollinators.  Interesting…university studies have found different types of bees prefer different varieties of Crape Myrtles. Plant height and color appear to be the most common deciding factor.

Crape Myrtle Sizes

Crape Myrtles are a great way to colorfully screen an unwanted view by planting them in a row.

• Standard Crape Myrtles - When allowed to grow as a small tree will reach up to 25’ in our region and require little maintenance.  Simply remove any dead wood from the tips of the branches in the spring and let the plant go for the season.  They can be grown as a single trunk or a multi-trunked tree.

• Semi-dwarf Crape Myrtles - Typically grow 8-12’ tall and make an excellent colorful screen when grown in a row.

• Dwarf Crape Myrtles - Grow only 2-4’ tall, are small and mounding, and ideal for a landscape bed where you want a splash of summer color.    

Selecting the right size plant is important.  Crape Myrtles are at their best when they can grow to their natural shape and size.  Constant pruning on the wrong size plant to keep it in a space it was not meant to fit will reduce the summer blooms.

Crape Myrtle Colors – The color pallet ranges from white, pink, purple, and red.  Bloom color is not the only attribute of Crape Myrtle.  Their foliage ranges from dark green, wine-colored, velvet and dark purple. The combination of the bloom and foliage colors is one of the things that attracts me to the plant.

I am most fond of the large, full-sized, tree-formed Crape Myrtles.  It is hard to narrow my list of favorite Crape Myrtles, and my list often changes, but these are just a few of my current favorites:

Pink Velour – Large 12-15’ small tree form with dark wine foliage and bright pink flowers.  The foliage and flower combination are very striking.

Pink Velour Crape Myrtle foliage emerges dark purple and fades to a rich green and then produces vibrant pink blooms through the summer.

Dynamite – Also a small tree that grows up to 15’. Dynamite was one of the first red tree form varieties.  New foliage is nearly crimson in color and changes to a rich green as it matures.  Flowers are brilliant red.

It’s hard to find a more vibrant red Crape Myrtle than the Dynamite Red.

Natchez – One of the largest tree form crape myrtles reaching 25’.  Foliage is rich green, and flowers are white. The cinnamon brown bark puts on a show of its own as it exfoliates.

Natchez Crape Myrtle, known for their white blossoms, also is known for adding interest to the landscape with its unique exfoliating bark.

Ebony Flame – A great accent plant that grows 10-12’ with dark red blooms on intense black foliage.

One of the nation’s leading innovators of Crape Myrtles is Oklahoma’s own, Dr. Carl Whitcomb.  Dr. Whitcomb holds 32 patents and has authored five books including Know It and Grow It, a book every landscape enthusiast should own.   You can see all of Dr. Whitcomb’s crape myrtles by following this link: http://drcarlwhitcomb.com/Patented_Plants.html

Crape Myrtle Bark – One of the most overlooked aspects of the plant is the bark.  The bark is smooth and ranges in color from pink to gray.  As the plant matures, the thin bark exfoliates to expose a different color underneath.  Too often, tree form Crape Myrtles are severely pruned every spring and we never get to enjoy the beautiful bark of the mature plant. 

Crape Myrtle Fall Color – Another overlooked characteristic of the plant is the fall color.  Varieties range from yellow to red.  Much of our fall color is found in larger trees.  Crape Myrtles add fall color to the landscape below the color of the large trees.

I would challenge anyone to find another plant that offers so many features to the landscape.  From the long bloom, the variety of colors, the many shapes and sizes, and the addition of exfoliating bark and good fall color, you can’t deny the Crape Myrtle a place in your landscape.

Lorne Hall

Hall Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Crape Myrtle - Summer's Biggest Show!

This week marked the longest day of the year, the first day of summer, and the start of Crape Myrtle season. 

Most blooming trees and shrubs last for only a few days or a couple of weeks.  But the crape myrtle holds the distinction of being our longest blooming shrub or tree.  Typically, the crape myrtle starts adding color to the landscape in mid-June and doesn’t stop until the first frost.  This year, due to the cooler than normal start to the summer, the crape myrtle hasn’t started to put on their summer show yet but will in the next couple of weeks.   

This past week, I was fortunate to spend a few days in Charleston, South Carolina, the first place the French planted crape myrtles in the United States.  One of our favorite activities of the week was a morning walk through Charleston’s crape myrtle lined streets. 

There are over 50 varieties of crape myrtles and new ones are introduced every year.  They are found throughout the southern US and perform well anywhere south of USDA zone 6. 

Crape myrtle Sizes

Standard Crape Myrtles - When allowed to grow as a small tree will reach up to 25’ in our region and require little maintenance. Simply remove any dead wood from the tips of the branches in the spring and let the plant go for the season. They can be grown as a single trunk or a multitrunked tree.

Semi-dwarf Crape Myrtles - Typically grow 8-12’ tall and make an excellent colorful screen when grown in a row.

Dwarf Crape Myrtles - Grow only 2-4’ tall, are small and mounding, and ideal for a landscape bed where you want a splash of summer color.

Selecting the right sized plant is important. Crape myrtles are at their best when they can grow to their natural shape and size. Constant pruning on the wrong size plant to keep it in a space it was not meant to fit will reduce the summer blooms.

Crape Myrtle Colors – The color pallet ranges from white, pink, purple and red.  Bloom color is not the only attribute of a crape myrtle.  Their foliage ranges from dark green, wine colored, velvet and dark purple. The combination of the bloom and foliage colors is one of the things that attracts me to the plant.

I am most fond of the large, full sized, tree formed crapemyrtles.  It is hard to narrow my list of favorite crapemyrtles, and my list often changes, but these are just a few of my current favorites:

Pink Velour – Large 12-15’ small tree form with dark wine foliage and bright pink flowers. The foliage and flower combination are very striking.

Dynamite – Also a small tree that grows up to 15’. Dynamite was one of the first red tree form varieties. New foliage is nearly crimson in color and changes to a rich green as it matures. Flowers are brilliant red.

Natchez – One of the largest tree form crape myrtles reaching 25’. Foliage is rich green, and flowers are white. The cinnamon brown bark puts on a show of its own as it exfoliates.

Ebony Flame – A great accent plant that grows 10-12’ with dark red blooms on intense black foliage.

One of the nation’s leading innovators of crape myrtles is Oklahoma’s own, Dr. Carl Whitcomb. Dr. Whitcomb holds 32 patents and has authored five books including Know It and Grow It, a book every landscape enthusiast should own. You can see all of Dr. Whitcomb’s crape myrtles by following this link: http://drcarlwhitcomb.com/Patented_Plants.html

Crape Myrtle Bark – One of the most overlooked aspects of the plant is the bark. The bark is smooth and ranges in color from pink to gray. As the plant matures, the thin bark exfoliates to expose a different color underneath. Too often, tree form crape myrtles are severely pruned every spring and we never get to enjoy the beautiful bark of the mature plant.

Crape Myrtle Fall Color – Another overlooked characteristic of the plant is the fall color. Varieties range from yellow to red. Much of our fall color is found in larger trees. Crape myrtles add fall color to the landscape below the color of the large trees.

I would challenge anyone to find another plant that offers so many features to the landscape.  From the long bloom, the variety of colors, the many shapes and sizes, and the addition of exfoliating bark and good fall color, you can’t deny the crape myrtle a place in your landscape.

Lorne Hall

Hall Stewart Lawn + Landscape