What is your lawn doing for you?

Hard to believe, but we have arrived at the mid-point of the lawn care season.  That’s right…if you typically mow your lawn 30 times per season, you have probably made 15 trips across your lawn so far in 2024. 

So, why do you do it?  What motivates you to have a great lawn?

Why does Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape have a passion for helping you have your best lawn?

Are all our efforts only in the pursuit of laying claim to the best lawn on the block?   

Why do we work so hard to have a great lawn? 

Is there anything more to a healthy, green lawn than curb appeal and feeling good about ourselves?

Have you ever pondered what a healthy lawn does for you?

Too often great lawns get a bad rap. 

In the race to reduce carbon output and conserve water, have we forgotten the long list of benefits of a healthy lawn? 

Concerns over water supplies, herbicides, pollutants, and your carbon footprint have caused some to race toward a more minimalist approach to landscapes and lawns. 

Has the American lawn, green, neatly trimmed, symbol of civic virtue, outlived its purpose?

Is it good for the environment when living plants are replaced with artificial materials or hardscape?

Yes, water will be saved.  Yes, there will be less fertilizer used. 

But is there more to consider?

When it comes to the benefits of turfgrass most people don’t give it much thought.  The environmental benefits of a healthy lawn are seldom considered.

Can you answer the question, “What is your lawn doing for you?”

Let’s explore a few things your lawn is doing for you:

Turfgrass captures carbon.

Healthy lawns absorb carbon dioxide and replace it with oxygen.  A lawn is simply a grouping of thousands of oxygen making plants.

The average, managed lawn captures more carbon than a lawnmower produces.

The average lawn captures 300 lbs. of carbon per year and has a net positive impact on our environment. 

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A 2,500 sq. ft lawn, half the size of the average lawn, provides enough oxygen for a family of four. 

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What is a managed lawn?  A lawn that receives regular mowing, some fertilizer and weed control applications.  Maintaining a healthy turfgrass environment provides us with a critical component of a healthy world – less carbon.  

• An Ohio State Study found lawns that received only an occasional mowing and no fertilizer or weed control capture far less carbon.   

Maintenance habits have a big influence on whether turfgrass helps or hurts the environment. Lawns cut too short typically create a negative carbon exchange.  Weedy lawns, nutrient deficient lawns, and drought stress lawns result in thin lawns that have a negative impact on the environment.    

• EPA reports that turf grasses in the United States offset the carbon emissions of 5.2 million cars every year.

Actively growing and healthy lawns reduce heat.  

A well-maintained lawn around homes can reduce air temperatures on the average 15 to 30 degrees compared to concrete, asphalt or gravel.

• The California Energy Commission found the cooling effect of an average size lawn is equal to nearly 9 tons of air conditioning.

Grass cools the air by absorbing solar radiation and through evapotranspiration.

• Studies estimate that improved planting and maintenance of lawns and landscapes around homes could reduce total US air conditioning requirements by 25%. 

A healthy turf captures pollutants and reduces runoff.  

Less runoff increases infiltration of water into the groundwater supply.  A dense root system traps and removes pollutants moving through the soil and into the water supply.  The natural filtration system of healthy turfgrass improves water quality. 

• Lawns are the best natural water purifier.

Turfgrass is more effective at stopping erosion than any other plant.  Grass naturally slows runoff and allows more water to be absorbed.

Healthy lawns improve air quality.   

Healthy lawns contribute to improved air quality by acting as traps for dust and particles.  Because a lawn completely covers a soil surface, particles are prevented from being blown to another area.

• Compared to hard surfaces, turf grass traps 10 to 30 times more air particles and pollution.

Lawns are a major component of higher home values.

Smart Money reported consumers value a home with a well-maintained lawn and landscape on average 11.3% over the base value. 

Well maintained lawns are one of the most important factors individuals and families consider when deciding where to live.

Yes, there is a place for synthetic turf in the landscape as a part of an experiential environment.

Great lawns benefit the community and human health.

Green areas enhance community pride, provide places for people to come together and promote outdoor activity. 

Lawns knit neighborhoods together.  Lawns connect people.

Studies show people who live and work with a view of lawns and landscapes compared to hard surfaces are found to recover from stress quicker, experience fewer headaches, and are more productive.

• Two studies show that children with Attention-Deficit/Hyperactivity Disorder have shown that green spaces, such as lawn areas, experience less severe symptoms.

Studies have also found the noise absorption capacity of turfgrass is significant.

Lawns are where memories are made.  No doubt, everyone can easily think of fond memories on the lawn with family and friends.

The belief that well maintained lawns are an environmental liability is short-sighted. 

Don’t fall for myth that a healthy lawn isn’t good for the environment. 

Water concerns are legitimate. Education on proper watering is important.  Deep, infrequent watering, based on the lawn’s needs, is a key to developing a healthy lawn that is good for the environment. 

• The scientific study “The Role of Turfgrasses in Environmental Protection and Their Benefits to Humans” stated, “the main cause for excessive landscape water use in most situations is the human factor.”

Excessive use of fertilizers and herbicides is a problem.  But, when used properly, according to the label, fertilizers and herbicides are important ingredients in creating a healthy lawn that is beneficial to the world in which we live, work and play.

• James Beard, Professor Emeritus of Texas A&M, said, “The environmental benefits of turfgrass are the most sensible and economically feasible approach to counter the greenhouse effect.”

So, what has your lawn done for you lately? 

Far more than you can imagine!

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

June Lawn & Landscape Tips

Hello Summer!

June… what a great month for your lawn and landscape!

June is the month when both cool season and warm season turf look great.  

June is the month when an abundance of perennials add color to the landscape. 

June is the month when shrubs are covered with soft, tender new foliage and so many blooming shrubs are adding splashes of color.

June is the month summer blooming trees start adding color to our world.

June is the month I discover another favorite tree, shrub, perennial or summer annual color every year.  What will be my favorite this June? 

June is the month that I know there is a good chance around every corner I’m going to stumble upon another fantastic lawn and landscape.

Awe…June is the month when all your lawn and landscape work this spring rewards you with enjoyable evenings on the patio.

Wait…don’t get too comfortable, it is summer and your lawn and landscape needs attention:

June is the month for day lilies to add splashes of color to the landscape.

Mowing – Good mowing practices will have the biggest impact on the quality of your lawn over the summer months.  For the best summer turf, get into a routine of mowing often enough that you only remove 1/3 of the leaf blade with each mowing.  For Bermuda and zoysia, both warm season turf grasses, this may require mowing every 4 to 5 days.  If you mow this often, don’t bag your clippings.  The top 1/3 of the grass leaf is 90% moisture and nutrients.  The best summer height for warm season turf is 1.5 – 2.5”.  Fescue, cool season turf grass, will continue to grow rapidly during early June, but once we consistently have temperatures in the upper 90s it will begin to slow down.  The best height for cool season turf in the summer is 3.0 – 3.5”.  Both warm season and cool season turfs, don’t respond well to being cut below their recommended height. Cutting the lawn too short discourages root development and having deep roots going into the summer heat is important for both warm and cool season turf.

Fertilizer – Bermuda lawns should be fertilized this month with a higher nitrogen, slow-release fertilizer.  The goal in June is to create a healthy Bermuda lawn that will thrive in the summer heat.  Fescue lawns should only receive low nitrogen, root stimulating fertilizer during June to prepare them for the summer heat.

One of the biggest concerns we have for fescue lawns right now is too many are being cut too short.  Cool season lawns will do better in the summer heat with more leaf space.  If you have a fescue lawn, gradually raise your mower to at least 3” this month.  I started mowing my fescue lawn a ½ notch higher in May and will increase it another ½ notch this week.

Weed Control – If you subscribe to Hall | Stewart’s Lawn Care Programs and have not skipped any applications this year, your lawn has had two pre-emergent applications.  This will provide your lawn with a good barrier to prevent summer annual grassy weeds.  But, if not, you may have some grassy weeds, most common is crabgrass, showing up in your lawn.  June is a good month to control grassy weeds while they are still young plants.  Once they mature, stronger products will need to be used which can cause turf damage.  If nutsedge is making an appearance in your lawn it is best not to pull it.  When you pull nutsedge and do not remove the nut below the surface, the plant becomes stressed and multiplies. 

You can expect to see Black Eyed Susans, a perennial brighten the landscape this month.

Crabgrass is a very fast growing summer annual grassy weed. If you did not get a pre-emergent on your lawn early this year, you are almost certain to have crabgrass growing in your lawn. Treat now with a grassy weed control herbicide. If you wait until July to control, harsh products that will damaged desirable turf will have to be used.

Tree & Shrub Care – The best thing you can do for your trees and shrubs this month is give them your attention.  Make it a routine to walk around the landscape looking for plants that just don’t look their best.  Most insects are great at camouflage and are hard to spot before you have damaged leaves.  Start watching for spider mites.  If you notice pale and specked foliage, shake the leaves over a white sheet of paper.  If you see tiny specks that start to move, you have spider mites and should schedule a treatment.  Be on the watch for bagworms on needle evergreens.  When they are young, they are hard to spot.  If you notice your evergreens losing color, there is a good chance bagworms are the problem.  With all insect and disease issues we subscribe to an integrated pest management approach.  With our Tree & Shrub Program, we inspect for issues with each visit.  Most problems are easier to control the earlier you notice them.  If you notice any issues with your plants, please let us know.

If you notice pale or speckled foliage on boxwood shrubs, shake a branch over a white paper. If you see tiny specks that start to move, you need to spray for spider mites.

As temperatures warm up in June be on the lookout for aphids.

Soft scale can be a problem on Redbud trees. A small 1/16-1/8”, reddish, oval scale that is often found on small twigs and can cause small branches to die if not treated. A treatment plan in late winter with a dormant oil with follow-up treatments in late spring and early summer with a horticultural oil is required.

The lacy blooms of June are a wonderful contrast to the big leaves of the Oak Leak Hydrangea.

A benefit on not having a late cold spell this spring…Crape Myrtles are already starting to bloom.

I’m always on the look out for new landscape plant materials. This year we have planted a few Orange Rocket Barberry. Typically Barberries have an oval or spreading growth pattern. But the Orange Rocket is known for its upright, compact growth habit.

Bag worms start out small and hard to see. Take time to inspect your needle evergreen shrubs this month.

Bagworms start out very small and are hard to see. Take time to inspect your needle evergreens before they cause damage.

Annual Color — Sunpatien and Joseph’s Coat

Endless Summer Hydrangeas will make their first big burst of color this month.

Shasta Daisies, a perennial, will bloom from early June through mid-summer. They make great cut flowers.

Who cant help but fall in love with Oakleaf Hydrangeas at this time of year. Their brilliant large flowers demand attention.

Later this month Mimosa trees will add bright pink, feathery flowers to the landscape.  

Shrub Pruning – June is the last month to prune spring blooming shrubs.  Spring blooming shrubs start setting flower buds by mid-summer.  A few examples of spring blooming shrubs: forsythia, quince, bridal wreath spirea, and azalea.  If the shrub is overgrown, use thinning cuts to reduce the size and increase air flow into the center of the plant.  Make thinning cuts by removing branches back to the main trunk or another branch.  If the shrub only needs a little shaping, make heading cuts near the end of branches.  But, remember that all shrubs will perform at their best if they are allowed to grow without heavy pruning or shearing.   

Planted in mass Stella D’oro Daylily’s add bright splashes of yellow to the landscape during June.

If your Azaleas have become overgrown or need shaping, June is your last chance to prune them before they start setting buds for next spring.

Watering – “How much to water” may be one of the most misunderstood aspects of managing a lawn and landscape.  Develop the practice of watering based only on need.  During the summer months, anytime we get a ½” rain or more, turn your system off for a few days.  Depending on afternoon temperatures, a 1” rainfall may save you a week’s worth of water.  The converse is true as well.  If we go a week without receiving a 1” of rainfall, you need to be watering.  Another clue it is time to start watering… when you walk on the lawn, if the grass doesn’t spring back up and your footsteps remain in the lawn, it is time to start watering.  Remember, deep soakings are always better than short, frequent watering.  Shallow, frequent watering results in lawns with less roots and more dependent on water.  Throughout the summer make it a habit to inspect your landscape and adjust.  Don’t set your irrigation controller at the beginning of the season, never touching it again until the fall.

My watering goal for June is a good deep soaking every 4 days.  If temperatures stay under 90 degrees and we get occasional rain, I’ll save money and water, and still have a great lawn and landscape.  The key to this plan is taking a little time to monitor and adjust.

Trumpet Vine

Mulch – Add mulch to your landscape plantings this month.  A 2” layer of mulch will retain moisture, cool the soil, and reduce weed germination.  We prefer premium shredded all bark cedar mulch because it doesn’t float as much and aesthetically looks great.  For acid-loving plants such as hydrangeas and azaleas, pecan hulls or pine bark mulch is a great choice.   

Endless Summer Hydrangea

Goldflame Spirea

Annual color planting of Joseph Coat, Sunpatien, and Marigold make a great yellow/orange color scheme.

Brown Patch – Be on the lookout for brown patch in your fescue lawn. June is the most active month for this disease in fescue lawns.  Anytime nighttime temperatures are 70 degrees plus and the turf remains damp for over 6 hours at a time, brown patch will develop. Areas where there is little air movement and/or heavy shade are more prone because the turf stays wet longer.  Brown patch will make the lawn appear it needs more water, but watering will just make it worse.  So, before you water more, think about the site, the amount of shade, the air movement in the area, and the amount of moisture the area has received.  The best thing you can do if this problem occurs is to stop watering.

One of the most self-inflicted problems with fescue lawns is watering practices that promote the development of brown patch.  Always allow your fescue time to dry out between waterings.  Avoid watering fescue in the evening during the summer.

If you subscribe to Hall | Stewart’s 7-Step Lawn Care Program and have fescue, you will receive a fungicide this month designed to suppress the brown patch fungus.

Brown Patch will make fescue look like it needs more water, but the problem is actually the result of the leaf blades staying wet for over 6 hours at a time when nighttime temperatures are in the 70s.

Yarrow is a perennial that produces yellow flowers in late May and early June.

Also, Cone Flower, another summer perennial will make a showing in June.

There are many varieties of Spirea’s with yellow and green foliage that put on blooms in the early summer.

Anthony Waterer Spirea is a medium sized shrub that is covered with pink flowers in late May and early June.

Aeration – Mechanical aeration is a “best” practice for any lawn.  Aeration reduces soil compaction, promotes root development, and thickens the turf.  May and June are the best months to aerate Bermuda.  This one practice will make a significant difference in the quality of your turf.  The stronger the turf, the less weed problems you will experience.

Insects – Regularly scheduled treatments for fleas & ticks, mosquitos, and perimeter insect control around your house should continue during the summer.  The goal is to make outdoor living for your family and pets the best possible.

Southern Magnolia trees produce large white flowers in early summer. Teddy Bear and Little Gem Dwarf Southern Magnolia are great plants for smaller landscapes.

Texas Red Yucca produce tall red flowering spikes this month. There are several varieties. Brakelights Res Yucca is a favorite.

Awe…June…Spend time outside, in your lawn and landscape, enjoying the beauty every day!

If you have any questions, please send us an email or call.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Often Asked Spring Weed Control Questions

Wow!  Spring is off to a fast start.

What a week of the landscape bursting with color! 

Forsythia… Redbuds… Tulips… Daffodils… I could go on and on.

Spring also means lawns that have not been on a regularly scheduled lawn care program are also bursting with weeds.

Flowering Quince is one of the early spring bloomers.  You can find this one in a grouping at the Myriad Gardens. Quince grows well in full sun to partial shade and has a dense spreading growth pattern.

The colors of spring are dynamic this year.  Make time to take a stroll through the Myriad Gardens and enjoy the spring show.

Blooming Forsythia is a sign that you need to get a pre-emergent on your lawn if you haven’t already.

Who doesn’t love the bright color of Creeping Phlox in the early spring landscape?

Weeds generate a lot of questions this time of year.  Let’s visit about a few of the most asked questions: 

• Is it too late to apply a pre-emergent herbicide?

• When is it too late to put a pre-emergent on your lawn?

• Why is it so important to prevent crabgrass?

• Why is it important to apply a second pre-emergent application in the spring?

• If I put a pre-emergent on my lawn every year in the spring, why do I have weeds now?

Before we get to the questions, let’s break down the word “pre-emergent”: 

Pre - before.  Emerge – come into view, to be seen.

A pre-emergent herbicide is used to prevent annual weed seeds from germinating by drying out the unwanted weed seed before it starts to grow. 

Pre-emergent herbicides have little to no impact on weeds we are already seeing.

Henbit, an annual winter weed that is littering lawns is easy to prevent with fall pre-emergent applications.

Crabgrass seedling

Early Summer Crabgrass

Mid-Summer Crabgrass

Commonly asked pre-emergent questions:

“Is it too late to apply a pre-emergent herbicide?”   (The most asked lawn care question this time of year.) 

Crabgrass, the most feared annual summer weed, germinates when soil temperatures reach 55 degrees for 3 consecutive days, which is typically mid-March in central Oklahoma.  

Currently soil temperatures in the Oklahoma City metro are hovering right around the magical 55 degrees.  But, with colder temperatures this week, we should see a little lower soil temperature for a few days.

It is not too late to prevent the germination of most summer annual weeds this year.  But it is best to apply a pre-emergent on your lawn as soon as possible.

Crabgrass is a very prolific yellowish to light green annual grassy weed that is east to prevent with a pre-emergent herbicide application.

“When is it too late to put a pre-emergent on your lawn?”

There are two reasons why it is never too late to start a weed control program: 

1. The high quality professional pre-emergent herbicide we use will control newly germinated crabgrass during its first stage of development.  So, if you do not apply a pre-emergent before germination, we can gain complete control if an application is within the first 2 weeks of germination.   

2. Not all crabgrass seeds germinate all at once.  Germination will continue through the spring and early summer. Even if you don’t get a pre-emergent on at the perfect time, having some prevention is better than none. 

“Why is it so important to prevent crabgrass?”

Crabgrass is the most prolific summer annual grassy weed.  As an annual it dies every year and comes back from seed the next year. 

If you do not apply a pre-emergent on your lawn every year before crabgrass germination, it is certain that you will have crabgrass in your lawn during the summer.

Crabgrass is a fast grower and if left unattended will rapidly dominate turf.  Just like the name suggest, it spreads low to the ground.  It can be found in almost every turf and landscape setting during the summer months where a pre-emergent was not applied. 

During the summer crabgrass grows faster than turfgrass and thrives under stress conditions of drought, heat, and low soil fertility, when turf is struggling. 

Crabgrass dies in the fall after the first hard frost.  But before it dies, one mature crabgrass will produce thousands of seeds. 

Crabgrass will make a home in thin areas of turf this summer. Two keys to preventing crabgrass are two timely pre-emergent applications and a thick healthy lawn.

Why is it important to apply a second pre-emergent application in the spring?

Pre-emergent herbicides work by creating a barrier over the soil surface.  The barrier gradually weakens over the season from foot traffic, mowing and periods of heavy rain.  The edges of the lawn are the first to break down.  The purpose of a second pre-emergent is to provide protection through the summer months. 

Another reason for a second pre-emergent is to prevent other troublesome summer grassy weeds:  goosegrass and sandbur.

Goosegrass germinates when soil temperatures reach 60 to 65 degrees.  Because of the later germination period, it is common for goosegrass to dominate in lawns that only receive the first pre-emergent of the year.  Goosegrass is common in areas of high foot traffic, compacted and poorly drained soils.  Like most grassy weeds, prevention is the best medicine.  Aeration is also a key step in reducing goosegrass.

Sandburs start germinating at 55 degrees soil temperatures, but they reach peak germination much later at 75 degree soil temperatures.   A second pre-emergent application is critical for the prevention of sandburs.  Another important characteristic of sandburs is they thrive in thin, dry turf.  Two spring pre-emergent herbicide applications and a thick, healthy turf are the best defenses. 

Goosegrass germinates when soil temperatures reach 60 to 65 degrees.  Because of the later germination period, it is common for goosegrass to dominate in lawns that only receive the first pre-emergent of the year.  Goosegrass is common in areas of high foot traffic, compacted and poorly drained soils.  Like most grassy weeds, prevention is the best medicine.  Aeration is also a key step in reducing goosegrass.

Sandburs start germinating at 55 degrees soil temperatures, but they reach peak germination much later at 75 degree soil temperatures.   A second pre-emergent application is critical for the prevention of sandburs.  Another important characteristic of sandburs is they thrive in thin, dry turf.  Two spring pre-emergent herbicide applications and a thick, healthy turf are the best defenses. 

If I put a pre-emergent on my lawn every spring, why do I have weeds now?

The most common weeds in lawns right now are henbit, chickweed and poa annua.  All three are winter annual weeds.  Henbit and chickweed are winter annual broadleaf weeds.  Poa annua is a winter annual grassy weed.

Winter annual weeds need to be prevented in the fall with a pre-emergent herbicide just like summer annual weeds need to be prevented now.  Winter annual weeds start germinating in September as soon as we start getting cool fall nights.  Two fall pre-emergent applications are just as important as spring applications to have a weed free lawn.

The winter annual weeds currently in lawns can be controlled by mixing a post emergent herbicide with the pre-emergent application.  By this time of year winter annual weeds are reaching maturity.  As annual weeds mature their growth slows as they put their energy toward flowering and producing seeds before they die. 

The challenge is weeds are slower to react to weed control applications as they mature.  As growth slows, they do not draw in the herbicides as quickly as they do when they are actively growing. 

Two important take aways -

• If you haven’t put a pre-emergent on your lawn yet this spring, it is not too late.  But the sooner the better!

• If you have put a pre-emergent on your lawn it is important to put a second application on your lawn for season long weed prevention!

The timing of pre-emergent applications, the quality of the herbicide applied, and the right quantity are all critical components for achieving your best lawn this season.

If you are a subscriber to a Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Program, either the 7-Step Weed Control & Fertilizer or the 4-Step Weed Control Only, your lawn receives the critical First Pre-emergent Application and the important Second Pre-emergent Application every spring.

If you are not a subscriber to a Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Program, please contact us. 

We want to make sure you receive timely pre-emergent herbicides to stop weeds before they start wreaking havoc on your lawn. 

Preventing weeds is much easier on your lawn than trying to control them after they are up and growing.  Once weeds take root harsher products must be used that may slow turf development.

If you have questions or would like additional information about pre-emergent applications, please respond to this email or give us a call.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Programs

(405)367-3873

Picture of the week!  I found this Ornamental Peach putting on a brilliant spring show in one of our customer’s landscape and couldn’t resist taking pictures.

Two Important Pre-Emergent Questions

Is it too late to put a pre-emergent on my lawn? 

And, why do I need two pre-emergent applications in the spring?

“Is it too late….” Is the most asked question we receive this time of year. 

The answer…. ”It is never too late to start a lawn care application program!”

In central Oklahoma it is always our goal to have the first pre-emergent on the lawn by the first week of March.  Why?  For the best lawn prevention of crabgrass is important. 

Crabgrass germinates when soil temperatures reach 55 degrees for 3 consecutive days, which is typically mid-March in central Oklahoma.   This year soil temperatures are right on schedule.  For the last three days, soil temperatures in central Oklahoma have been at or above 55 degrees.

Crabgrass seedling

Early Summer Crabgrass

Mid-Summer Crabgrass

Then, it is too late? 

No. There are two reasons why it is not too late to control crabgrass: 

1. The professional pre-emergent herbicide we use will kill newly germinated crabgrass during its first stage of development.  So, if you have not applied a pre-emergent yet this year, we can gain complete control if an application is made this month. 

2. Not all crabgrass seeds germinate all at once.  Germination will continue through the spring and early summer. Even if you don’t get a pre-emergent on at the perfect time, having some prevention is better than none. 

Why are we so concerned about preventing crabgrass?

Crabgrass is the most prolific summer annual grassy weed.  As an annual, it dies every year and comes back from seed the next year.  Just like the name suggests, it spreads low to the ground.  It is yellowish to light green in color. 

Crabgrass is a fast grower and if left unattended will rapidly dominate turf.  It can be found in almost every turf and landscape setting during the summer months where a pre-emergent was not applied. 

During late spring and early summer, crabgrass grows faster than turfgrass and thrives under stress conditions of drought, heat and low soil fertility when the turf is struggling.  Crabgrass dies in the fall after the first hard frost.  But before it dies, one mature crabgrass will produce thousands of seeds. 

Why is it important to have a second pre-emergent application this spring?

Pre-emergent herbicides work by creating a barrier over the soil surface.  The barrier gradually weakens over the season from foot traffic, mowing and periods of heavy rain.  The edges of the lawn are the first to breakdown.  The second pre-emergent will provide protection through the summer months. 

The Best News About Lawn Care Applications -  

If you are a subscriber to a Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Program, either the 7-Step Weed Control & Fertilizer or the 4-Step Weed Control Only, you have already had your 1st Pre-emergent Application this year and your 2nd Application is on the schedule!.

An additional reason for a second pre-emergent is to prevent other

troublesome summer grassy weeds:  goosegrass and sandbur.

Sandburs start germinating at 55 degrees soil temperatures, but they reach peak germination much later at 75 degree soil temperatures.   A second pre-emergent application is critical for the prevention of sandburs.  Another important characteristic of sandburs is they thrive in thin, dry turf.  Two spring pre-emergent herbicide applications and a thick, healthy turf are the best defenses. 

Goosegrass germinates when soil temperatures reach 60 to 65 degrees.  Because of the later germination period, it is common for goosegrass to dominate in lawns that only receive the first pre-emergent of the year.  Goosegrass is common in areas of high foot traffic, compacted and poorly drained soils.  Like most grassy weeds, prevention is the best medicine.  Aeration is also an important step in reducing goosegrass.

If you haven’t put a pre-emergent on your lawn yet this spring, it is not too late!

If you have put a pre-emergent on your lawn it is important to put a second application on your lawn for season-long weed prevention!

If you are not a subscriber to a Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Program, please contact us.  We want to make sure you receive timely pre-emergent herbicides to stop weeds before they start wreaking havoc on your lawn. 

Preventing weeds is much easier on your lawn than trying to control them after they are up and growing.  Once weeds take root, harsher products must be used that may slow turf development.

If you have questions or would like additional information about pre-emergent herbicides, please contact us at (405)367-3873.

Lorne Hall

Hall|Stewart Lawn + Landscape  

Fescue in the off season!

All turf grasses have an offseason.  A season when they are not at their prime.  For warm season grasses, it is the winter.  No one expects their bermuda lawn to be green and actively growing in January.  Everyone understands that it is dormant.

What about a cool season turf?  When is fescue’s off season?  

Fescue is at its best in the spring and fall, often has greenish-brown freeze burnt leaves in the dead of winter but goes through an off season during July and August when temperatures average 90 plus.

One of the advantages of fescue, when best practices are followed, is it will keep good color during its off season, unlike bermuda.  Bermuda will always have more color than fescue in July and August, but March through early June and September into December, you can’t beat the greens of a fescue lawn.  

Bermuda is the dominate turf in our region, but it doesn’t grow in shade.  Fescue is the preferred turf for shady areas.  Gracefully aging neighborhoods in the Oklahoma City area are full of mature trees and lawns that have transitioned from bermuda to fescue.  Every homeowner eventually must face the need for fescue in their landscape. 

How do you keep a fescue lawn looking its best in the summer heat? 

Let’s run through a list of best and worst practices for fescue during its off season.

Best practices for keeping fescue looking good during July and August:

• Mow fescue at 3” – 3 ½”.  The more leaf space the better color and the more draught tolerant the lawn will be.

• Water deep.  Water infrequent.  Water in the early morning.  Fescue lawns that are receiving 1 ½” of moisture per week, on an every other day schedule, only in the early morning, look the best in the heat of summer. 

• Fescue lawns that receive at least some dappled sunlight look the best during the summer heat.

Fescue lawn with dappled sunshine.

• Fescue lawns that are aerated in the fall have stronger root systems and can better withstand hot, dry days.

Fescue when watered and mowed properly in full sun in the heat of the summer.

Worst practices for fescue during the summer heat:

• Fescue cut too short.  Remember leaf blades store moisture the plant needs to withstand the summer heat.

• Stop watering twice per day, morning and evening, every day.  Short and frequent watering does far more harm than good.  It is a myth that fescue needs to be kept wet during the summer heat.  When temperatures are hot and fescue stays consistently wet for more than 6 hours at a time, brown patch will damage the turf.  When brown patch starts spreading in a fescue lawn it looks like the lawn needs more water.  The natural response is to water more which makes the problem worse.  On most site visits I made in the past two weeks where customers were concerned about their fescue, I discovered brown patch was the problem.  In each case the homeowner had increased watering to two times per day, morning and evening, every day.

Brown patch in fescue.

Fescue with a mild case of brown patch.

• Heavy shade and low air circulation.  Fescue performs best if it receives some light every day.  Fescue will tolerate more sun than most realize and does well in full sun when it is watered and mowed properly.  Air circulation plays the important role of drying the leaf blades between watering cycles.  Small backyards, with wood fences, and heavy shade are the hardest on fescue in July and August.

Drought stressed fescue.

• Tight clay soil that has never been aerated result in shallow rooted fescue that will struggle in the heat.

Fescue seeded over Bermuda in full sun in the heat of the year.

Fescue in full to dappled sun in July.

During fescue’s offseason take a stroll around your lawn and start planning for the fall.  The cooler days of September will be here soon.

Do you need to make some changes to how you are mowing and watering your fescue?

Are you trying to grow fescue in full shade, in a location where there is little wind movement?  If so, can you improve the conditions, or should you consider transitioning to a shade tolerant ground cover?

If your fescue didn’t perform well due to the excessive moisture and high humidity of the early summer, or if it has struggled with brown patch in the heat, start making plans to overseed this fall. 

Do you have areas of the lawn that are becoming too shady for bermuda?  Bermuda starts to thin anywhere it does not get at least 8 hours of direct sunlight every day.   Is this the fall to start establishing fescue in those areas?

Whether you have a full fescue lawn or just some fescue in shady areas, don’t fret, fescue’s best season is just a few weeks away!

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

What can your lawn do for you?

In the race to reduce carbon output and conserve water, many have forgotten the long list of benefits of a healthy lawn.  Concerns over water supplies, herbicides, pollutants, and your carbon footprint have caused some to race toward a more minimalist approach to landscapes and lawns. 

Over the past few years the media joined the war against the landscape with articles such as “The Life and Death of the American Lawn.  Grasses – green, neatly trimmed, symbols of civic virtue – shaped the national landscape. They have now outlived their purpose.” 

One of the hottest trends is the replacement of natural grass with landscape gravel or artificial turf.  Both have their place, but not at the expense of a healthy landscape of plants, trees, and turf.   

Is it good for the environment when living plants are replaced with artificial materials? Yes, water will be saved.  Yes, there will be less fertilizer used.  But, is there more to consider?

Can replacing a living plants with artificial materials really be a net positive for the environment?  

When it comes to the benefits of turf grass most people don’t give it much thought.  The environmental benefits of a healthy lawn are seldom considered. Most would have a hard time answering the question, “What is your lawn doing for you?” 

Let’s explore a few reasons why a healthy landscape is important to our environment:

Turfgrass captures carbon.

Healthy lawns absorb carbon dioxide and replace it with oxygen.

The average, managed lawn, captures more carbon than a lawnmower produces. The average lawn captures 300 lbs. of carbon per year and has a net positive impact on our environment. 

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A 2,500 sq. ft lawn, half the size of the average lawn, provides enough oxygen for a family of four. 

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What is a managed lawn?  A lawn that receives regular mowing, and some fertilizer and weed control applications.  Maintaining a healthy turfgrass environment provides us with a critical component of a healthy world – less carbon.  An Ohio State study found lawns that received only an occasional mowing and no fertilizer or weed control captured far less carbon.   

Maintenance habits have a big influence on whether turfgrass helps or hurts the environment. Lawns cut too short typically create a negative carbon exchange.  Weedy lawns, nutrient deficient lawns, and drought stress lawns result in thin lawns that have a negative impact on the environment.    

Actively growing and healthy landscapes can provide benefits of heat reduction.

Trees, shrubs, and lawn areas around homes can reduce air temperatures on the average 15 degrees compared to concrete, asphalt or gravel.

Studies estimate that improved planting and maintenance of lawns and landscapes could reduce total US air conditioning requires by 25%.  Grass cools the air by absorbing solar radiation and through evapotranspiration.

A healthy turf slows water runoff reducing erosion and therefore reducing sediment build up and improves the quality of streams, ponds, and lakes.

Less runoff increases infiltration of water into the groundwater supply.  A dense root system traps and removes pollutants moving through the soil and into the water supply.  The natural filtration system of healthy turfgrass improves water quality.

Turfgrass is more effective at stopping erosion than any other plant.  Grass naturally slows runoff and allows more water to be absorbed.  Also, grass is a natural water purifier.

Lawns are a major component of higher home values.

Smart Money reported consumers value a home with a well maintained lawn and landscape on the average 11.3% over the base value. 

Healthy lawns improve air quality by trapping dust and allergens.   

Dense turf reduces the blowing of soil particles.  Also, it only takes 25 sq. ft. of turfgrass to provide enough oxygen for one adult for one day.

Great lawns benefit the community and human health.

Green areas enhance community pride, provide places for people to come together and promotes outdoor activity.  Research shows the result is improved physical and mental health and reduced stress.

The belief that well maintained lawns are an environmental liability are short-sighted.  Water concerns are legitimate.  Overwatering lawns and excessive use of fertilizers and herbicides drive much of the concern.  Education on proper watering, maintenance, fertilizer, and herbicide use is important.

A scientific study “The Role of Turfgrasses in Environmental Protection and Their Benefits to Humans” concluded that there is no valid scientific basis for water restrictions of turfgrass.  The report stated, “the main cause for excessive landscape water use in most situations is the human factor.”

James Beard, Professor Emeritus of Texas A&M, said, “The environmental benefits of turfgrass are the most sensible and economically feasible approach to counter the greenhouse effect.”

So, what has your lawn done for you lately?  “More than you can imagine!”

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn & Landscape

The most feared weed... Crabgrass!

Crabgrass is so well known — it’s the most talked about and most feared of all weeds.  Most people are so captivated with the fear of having crabgrass take over their lawn that it is common for them to refer to any weed as the dreaded “Crabgrass!”

With March as the critical point in preventing crabgrass, I thought we should hold a quick educational seminar on crabgrass.

What is crabgrass?

It is a summer annual grassy weed.  This means that it dies every year and comes back from seed the next year.  Just like the name suggests, it spreads low to the ground.  It is yellowish to light green in color.  Crabgrass is a prolific grower and if left unattended will rapidly dominate turf.  It can be found in almost every turf and landscape setting during the summer months if not properly managed.

What is the crabgrass life cycle?

Crabgrass germinates every spring when soil temperatures reach 55 degrees for 2-3 consecutive days.  Typically, this occurs in central Oklahoma during the first week of March.  This year, soil temperatures are lagging with a current temperature of 50 degrees in central Oklahoma.  Last year, crabgrass germination started the last week of February.    During late spring and summer, crabgrass grows faster than turf grass and thrives under stress conditions of drought, heat. and low soil fertility — when turf is struggling.  Crabgrass dies in the fall after the first hard frost.  But before it dies, one mature crabgrass will produce thousands of seeds. 

Crabgrass seedling

Early Summer Crabgrass

Mid-Summer Crabgrass

What is the best way to control crabgrass?

Prevention is the key to crabgrass control.  A pre-emergent herbicide must be applied before soil temperatures reach the magical 55 degrees.  If Forsythia is blooming, it is a clue that crabgrass has started to germinate.  In addition to applying a pre-emergent, thick turf development is the key to reducing your exposure to crabgrass.  Sunlight is required for crabgrass to germinate and a thick turf will limit the amount of light reaching the soil surface.  A good turf maintenance program during the season consisting of regularly mowing, correct amounts of water, timely fertilizer, and annual aeration will produce a think lawn that is less susceptible to crabgrass invasion the next spring.

Will one pre-emergent application be enough?

Pre-emergent herbicides work by creating a barrier over the soil surface.  The barrier gradually weakens over the season from foot traffic, mowing and periods of heavy rain.  The edges of the lawn are the first to breakdown.  Additionally, crabgrass will continue to germinate throughout the season.  It is recommended that a second application be made in April through May for season long prevention.

If crabgrass is only a warm season weed, then what are the weeds in lawns now?

Just like crabgrass is a summer annual weed, there are also winter annual weeds.  The most popular winter annual weed is poa anna.  It is a cool season grassy weed that first germinates in early fall about the time we get our first few cool nights.  To have a clean lawn coming out of winter and going into spring, two fall pre-emergent applications need to be put on your lawn – one in early fall and one in late fall.

If you haven’t put a pre-emergent on your lawn yet this spring, is it too late?

This year, because of the cooler weather it isn’t too late.  But, you must get it done very soon!  Also, it is never too late to start preventing weeds.  Weeds are always germinating.  Even if you are late with the application, it is better than not doing it at all.  Additionally, the best pre-emergent herbicides will control annual weeds in the first stage of growth.  Always use a quality product or service for the best results.

The Best News About Crabgrass

If you are a subscriber to a Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Program, either the 7-Step Weed Control & Fertilizer or the 4-Step Weed Control Only, you have already had your 1st Pre-emergent Application to prevent crabgrass this year!

If you are not a subscriber to a Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Program, please contact us.  We want to make sure you receive timely pre-emergent herbicides to stop weeds before they start wreaking havoc on your lawn.  Preventing weeds is much easier on your lawn than trying to control them after they are up and growing.  Once weeds take root harsher products must be used that may slow turf development.

If you have questions or would like additional information about crabgrass and how to prevent it from taking over your lawn, please contact us at (405)367-3873.

Lorne Hall

Hall|Stewart Lawn + Landscape