Coming soon to a landscape near you -- Fall Seasonal Color!

Fall is on the way, but for now the warm and dry weather doesn’t seem to want to fade away.

But, before you know it, the days in the 80s (and 90s) will be replaced with days in the 70s!

There is a good chance your summer seasonal color looks better right now than it has all summer.  Sadly, it only has a few weeks left to put on a show.

As days in the 80s are replaced by days in the 70s, the change in the landscape will be most noticeable in your summer annual color.  Impatiens, begonias, penta, lantana, periwinkle, coleus, sunpatiens are often at their best in early September and fading by the end of the month. 

Next up for your landscape…. Fall Seasonal Color!

One thing before we start dreaming about fall seasonal color, I need you to do me a favor…

Grab a note pad and your smart phone, head outside, and take pictures and jot down notes of your summer seasonal color. 

Right now, is the perfect time to update your Seasonal Color Journal.  (You have one, don’t you?)

Here’s a glimpse into our summer seasonal color journal - pictures & notes!

Coleus did a great job of adding color and texture to the summer landscape.

Sunpatiens have performed well in the last half of the summer. This year many Sunpatiens plantings were slow to get going, but the ones that survived look wonderful now.

Periwinkle is an old time summer seasonal color that is making a resurgence with new varieties. Periwinkle very well may be the star of this summer’s seasonal color. It is hard to beat its performance in a hot and dry summer.

A good sunny color combination this summer has been Coleus, Periwinkle and Lantana.  

Lantana is always a great performer in hot, sunny locations from late June through September.

Penta and Joseph Coat have both performed well in the summer heat this year.

Always a summer favorite for shade is Caladiums and Inpatients.

Tropical Hibiscus have been one of our favorites this summer for container plantings.

Seasonal Color Defined:

The planting of annual (plants that only last one season) flowers in the landscape to add a seasonal accent of color.  Annual color can have more impact in the landscape than any other design element.  Seasonal color plantings can be large and bold, or they can be small plantings near the front door or planted on the edge of the patio to catch your attention, or they can be as simple as a few colorful landscape pots welcoming guests to your home.  The key is to only plant as much color as you can adequately care for.  Seasonal color, large or small, is a statement piece in your landscape.

Fall seasonal color options:

A key to pansies surviving the winter is moisture. A good deep soaking once per week in the winter will help them overwinter.

Pansies – How ironic!  The cool season annual that is the toughest…the best at surviving the cold of winter is called a Pansy!  Planting pansies this fall will add vibrant yellows, blues, purples, oranges, whites, and reds to your landscape for 7-8 months.  The key to pansies surviving the winter is keeping the plants from being bone dry when cold fronts arrive.  Pansies love fertile, well-drained soil.  For the best results add compost to the soil when planting.  For the best show, plant on 6” centers.  Pansies are available with a clear face or with a blotch.  I love both but enjoy the added color contrast you get with the blotch. 

Use seasonal color as a welcoming statement for your guests.

Mums – They are actually a perennial but can double as an annual for dramatic color during October and November.  They are traditionally used in pots and overlooked as a bedding plant.  Use mums in the landscape for bold, eye-catching color.  An added bonus – after the blooms fade, transfer the plants to a place where they will accent the landscape as a perennial in the coming springs and falls. 

Kale riding out an ice storm.

When you use mums as perennials they add a splash of color to your fall landscape.

Kale and Ornamental Cabbage – A leafy annual that adds texture along with hues of purples, pinks, and whites to the fall landscape.  Most winters kale and cabbage will add interest to the landscape through the holidays and occasionally into the spring.  Just like pansies, the most damaging thing you can do is allow the soil to be dry when cold spells sweep in. 

Pansies, kale and mums make a great combination for your fall landscape containers.

Bulbs: Tulips, Daffodils and Hyacinths – Not fall color, but they must be planted in the fall for color next spring.  We will spend more time talking about spring flower bulbs later, but now is the time to start making your plans.  Bulbs put on their best show in the spring when they are planted with several bulbs together in a group. 

Spring flowering bulbs aren’t fall color, but you have to plan for them now and plant them in them in November for a spring show.

It’s still too early to plant spring-blooming tulip bulbs, but it isn’t too early to start planning your color scheme and where you are going to plant bulbs.

Tip - For the best color show, limit mums and/or kale to 20% or less of your planting.  Because of the short bloom time of mums and the chance kale will not last until spring, you will limit your spring color show if you have too much of them.  Or, plant your spring bulbs in the same area as your mums and kale.  The bulbs will fill the void with a burst of color next spring.

Your lawn and landscape assignment for this week…

Document your summer seasonal color. 

Plan your October seasonal color change.

Remember…Great landscapes should include plants that add color and interest in every season!

You really don’t want to be without color for the next 7-8 months, do you?

Lorne Hall

Hall|Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

A blanket of pansies with kale. In this landscape tulip bulbs are planted in November every year in the area of the kale to add more color next spring.

Bad news - you only have a couple more weeks to enjoy your summer annual color. Start planning now to replant seasonal color areas in October with cool weather loving pansies, mums, and kale.

Best Practices for Successfully Establishing Fescue

Have you noticed how much we have been talking about fescue lately? 

On August 11th, we wrote about Bermuda vs Fescue – The Choice is Yours!

Last week in our September Lawn & Landscape Tips the first item we listed was Fescue Overseeding.

As the temperature cools and moisture returns, fescue lawns will regain cooler and health.

Small, shady areas in your lawn where there is low air movement and shade are prime candidates for annual fall seeding with fescue.

It has been common to find stressed areas of fescue from uneven water distribution this summer.

If you have heavily shaded areas it is common to need to overseed in the fall, regardless of the summer weather conditions.

Fescue is the best turf grass for areas of your lawn that receive dappled sun. Bermuda needs at least 6 hours per day of direct sun light.

Fescue is commonly thought of as a shade grass. But fescue grown using the best maintenance and lawn care practices can thrive in full sun.

Why so much focus on fescue?

• Because, you are asking a lot of questions about fescue…

• & because, it is the best time to establish a fescue lawn!

It has been a stressful summer for fescue areas with uneven water distribution. Fall is the best time to overseed any damaged areas of fescue.

Who should plan on overseeding with fescue this fall?

• If you have areas of your lawn where the bermuda has thinned because of shade, you should seed this fall.  Bermuda needs at least 6 hours of direct sunlight for the best performance.  Less than 6 hours of direct sunlight and bermuda starts to thin.

• If you have fescue areas that have become thin because of brown patch or drought, you should seed this fall.

• If you just want to keep your fescue thick and healthy, you should seed this fall.  Fescue doesn’t spread like bermuda with runners across the top of the soil.  Fescue spreads through tillering through the soil and putting up new vertical shoots.  Fescue spread is slow and often rare in the transition zone in which we live.  To keep a fescue lawn at it’s best, adding more seed is common.  Our best fescue lawns are overseeded every fall.

• If you want to have a green lawn longer into the fall and earlier in the spring, you should seed this fall.  Fescue is a cool season grass and stays green and active into early December and recovers from the winter in early March.  With a fescue lawn, it is common to have a green lawn 10 out of 12 months.

This fall is the best time to repair fescue areas that were damaged during this summer’s heat and drought.

Myth: It is difficult to grow fescue.  But, really it isn’t.  Growing fescue does require a different approach to your lawn, but it isn’t difficult when you follow the best practices for overseeding with fescue. 

4 Best Practices for Successfully Establishing Fescue

Best Practice #1 – Seeding fescue in the fall.

Because fescue is a cool season grass, there are two times per year you can plant fescue seed; Fall (September through October) and Spring (March to early April).

If you wait until spring to seed fescue, you are seeding at the second-best time and there is an enormous chasm between the establishment of fescue now (the best time) and next spring (the second-best time). 

Spring seeded fescue will come up great, but it rarely establishes enough root system to make it through the summer heat (fescue’s off season).  

Fall seeded fescue has all fall, winter, and spring to establish a root system before enduring the heat of July and August. 

Don’t fail at establishing fescue – seed in the fall, not the spring.

Best Practice #1 – Seeding fescue in the fall.

---

Best Practice #2 – Good Seed to Soil Contact

Good seed to soil contact is important.  If you sow seed over the existing soil without some preparation, the chance of a successful seeding is greatly reduced.  Research shows the percentage of germination decreases dramatically when seed is just sown on top of the ground.

You will have success if you start by cutting the existing turf short to remove excess grass.  Then loosen the soil to create good seed to soil contact. 

This bermuda lawn is being cut short in preparation of overseeding it with fescue for the first time.

The lawn was being maintained at 3”.

Cutting it to 2” will improve the seed to soil contact and increase the success of the first time overseed.

Aeration is an important step in establishing good seed to soil contact. Good seed to soil contact and keeping the area moist are two keys two keys to success seeding.

Aeration is the best method to loosen the soil and gain good seed to soil contact.  Aerating also gives you the extra benefit of improving the soil structure, increasing water absorption, and developing deeper roots. 

Give more attention to bare areas and the edges.  Rough up the areas with a rake. 

Rototilling isn’t necessary, but breaking the surface of the soil in bare areas is needed. 

In areas that are completely bare, spread a thin layer of peat moss over the surface after seeding to increase the seed to soil contact. 

• If overseeding an existing fescue area with a good stand of grass, spread seed at a rate of 6-8 pounds per 1,000 square feet.

• If establishing a new fescue lawn, spread seed at a rate of 10-12 pounds per 1,000 square feet.

Best Practice #2 – Good Seed to Soil Contact

---

Best Practice #3 – Keep the Seed Tacky Moist Until It Germinates 

The first two are very important, but this one is critical for success. 

Nothing will deliver you a losing hand quicker than not keeping the seed moist.  You can get the first two best practices correct and have complete failure if the seeded area is not kept moist until new grass is visible in the entire area.

Even water distribution is important in keeping the seed tacky moist until it comes up. Check your system. Look for areas where there isn’t complete head to head coverage. The result will be poor germinate around the sprinkler head.

This picture 14 days after seeding demonstrates how critical moisture is to seed germination. The seed in the area where the irrigation does not reach has not germinated at all while the moist areas are nearly fully germinated.

When you keep the seeded area consistently tacky moist you will seed germination within 7-14 days. Best practice is to water the area 3 short cycles per day.

The worst thing you can do is water the seeded area, allow it to dry completely, water again, allow it to dry completely, repeat, repeat, repeat…  After a couple of times of drying out completely, the seed will no longer be viable. 

For the best success, set your irrigation to run 3 short cycles per day.  Set spray type zones to run 3-5 minutes each time.  Set rotor type zones to run 7-10 minutes each time.  If possible, set the system to run early morning (4:00 AM), late morning (10:00 AM), and mid-afternoon (4:00 PM). 

You don’t have to have an irrigation system to establish fescue.  Just be diligent at watering every morning and every evening. 

Best Practice #3 – Keep the Seed Tacky Moist Until It Germinates

---

Best Practice #4 – Invest in a Quality Seed

Fescue was first introduced in the US from Europe in the 1800s as a pasture grass.  Kentucky-31 Tall Fescue was developed in the 1940s as an improved pasture grass and introduced to the home turf market in the 1960s by Pennington Seed. 

Improved fescue varieties  are very heat and drought tolerant and can successfully be grown in full sun.

What is the point of the seed history lesson? 

If you are buying Kentucky-31 Tall Fescue, you are buying an 80-year-old product when there are over 300 improved fescue varieties that offer darker green color, narrower blades, and improved tolerance to heat, cold, drought, and disease.  Kentucky-31 is marginally acceptable as a lawn grass that tends to become thin and clumpy. 

No matter the name on the bag of the seed, any improved variety will outperform Kentucky-31.

We believe using a blend is best when seeding fescue.  Blends are a combination of two or more varieties within the same species, such as two or more fescues in one mix.  Blends are a combination of the best species, tested over time, for the best shade tolerance and disease resistance. The number one problem with fescue is brown patch disease.  The best blends use fescue varieties that show strong resistance to brown patch.  Also, some blends will contain bluegrass and, or rye for even more vibrant spring color. 

Best Practice #4 – Invest in a Quality Seed

All seed grown in Oregon is certified. Buy it when possible.

When purchasing seed look for a blend with fescue varieties that score high in the NTEP trials for heat, drought, and disease resistance.

Two things that will make a seed more expensive, but at the same time a great value, “0% Weed Seed” and “Treated with Gravity SL PGS”.  

Gravity SL PGS is a growth stimulant that greatly increases germination rates and root development.

---

Fescue can be grown successfully in Oklahoma.  Even during a hot and dry summer, there are examples of great fescue lawns in every neighborhood.   And for the fescue lawns that showed stress this summer, surprisingly most will show signs of a rebound with slightly cooler temperatures and moisture.

Successful fescue lawns are the result of best seeding practices, best cool season turf maintenance practices, and persistence. 

But, more importantly, they are a result of different thinking.  Establishing and maintaining a fescue lawn requires a different approach.

---

Bonus Best Practice

Don’t apply a fall pre-emergent before seeding.  The same pre-emergent herbicide that prevents weeds will prevent fescue from germinating.  Wait until after the new fescue has been mowed 2-3 times before putting a pre-emergent on the lawn.

Special Note:   DO NOT use pre-emergent herbicides now in areas that are going to be seeded this fall.

If you need assistance in establishing a fescue lawn or have questions about fescue, give us a call – (405) 367-3873. 

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

September Lawn & Landscape Tips

September, the transition month from summer to fall!

I think we are all ready for a little break from the summer heat.   No doubt there are still a few hot days yet to come, but the cooler days of fall are getting closer.  By the end of September, daytime highs will be in the 70s and nighttime lows will be in the 50s.  

It was an interesting summer for our lawns and landscapes.  With the warmer and dryer than normal June, this was a great summer for warm season turf (bermuda and zoysia) and a so-so year for cool season turf (fescue). 

With summer fading away, it is time to turn our focus toward the lawn and landscape activities of fall.

September lawn and landscape activities will make a big difference in the success of your landscape not only this fall, but also next spring.

For your lawn and landscape, it is important to finish the year strong and get a head start on next year by checking off these lawn and landscape activities during September: 

Overseed – If you have a cool season lawn (fescue), September through October is the time to add more seed (overseed).  Fall is by far the most successful time to establish cool season turf.  Fescue seeded this fall will have stronger roots next summer when the heat returns.

If you have not already, inspect your fescue in the next few days. If there are thin areas due to dense shade, brown patch damage, or areas damaged by a lack of moisture during the heat, plan on overseeding this fall.   

Also, look for areas of the lawn that have become too shady for bermuda.  Bermuda needs at least 6 hours of direct sunlight for the best performance.  The key words are “direct sunlight.”  Dappled sunlight is not “direct sunlight.”  Anything less than 6 hours of full sunlight and bermuda will begin to thin.

Sooner or later, you will have to introduce fescue in your lawn if you have trees.  Success is easier if you start the process before the bermuda has completely faded. 

Fescue is also a good choice for the narrow side areas of houses where the turf only receives a few hours of direct sun each day.

What are the keys to successful seeding? Good seed soil contact, a quality fescue blend, and keeping the seeded area tacky moist until the seed germinates.

Need help evaluating shady areas of your lawn, schedule a lawn evaluation by responding to this email or call (405)367-3873.

If you are overseeding with fescue this fall, even water distribution is a critical step to success. If you have dry areas in your irrigation system, make repairs before seeding.

One of the keys to successfully seeding shady areas is a quality seed. We believe in using a fescue blend containing varieties that have a history of performing well in Oklahoma.

Did you know that with the right maintenance plan and lawn care applications tailored for cool seasons grasses, fescue will perform well in full sun?

Fall seeded fescue lawns result in the best cool season lawns next spring.

Overseeded fescue 14-21 days after seeding.

Fall is the best time to seed shady areas of your lawn with fescue.

Fescue in late September last year after being overseeded in early September.

If your fescue has areas that did not handle the heat and lack of rain the past 6 weeks, now is the time to overseed with fescue.

Fall Pre-emergent & Post-Emergent – Winter annual weeds germinate as temperatures cool.  Poa annua, an annual bluegrass, is the first to germinate, followed by henbit and chickweed.  These are the weeds that will keep you from having a clean landscape next January through April.  When you skip the fall pre-emergent, you will be forced to use harsher products next spring to clean up the turf when you should be focused on developing a lush green turf.  For the best results, a fall pre-emergent should be applied to your lawn before the end of September.   Also, many bi-annual weeds, such as dandelions, are easier to control in the fall.

Note:  DO NOT use pre-emergent herbicides now in areas that are going to be seeded this fall.

The use of nitrogen fertilizer after September 15th, often in an attempt to keep Bermuda green longer in the fall, will enhance spring dead spot disease next year.

Lawn Fertilizer – When you fertilize and what you put on your warm season (bermuda and zoysia) lawns in September, is critical to the health of your lawn.  High nitrogen fertilizer should not be applied to warm season turf after mid-September.  Applications of high nitrogen fertilizer 6 weeks before winter dormancy reduces winter hardiness and promotes spring dead spot disease.  Typically, winter dormancy for bermuda in central Oklahoma begins in early November.  Potassium is important for cold tolerance and disease control, but because potassium stays in the soil longer, a soil test is recommended before applying high amounts of potassium. 

During September and October, we adjust the fertilizer to match the weather forecast and soil conditions to ensure bermuda lawns have strong root systems, are winter hardy, and are positioned to start next year strong.

Fall is the best time to apply higher nitrogen fertilizer to fescue lawns.  Plan on getting the first fall feeding on fescue this month.  Because fescue is a cool season grass, it benefits from more nitrogen in the fall.  Even if you will be overseeding your fescue this fall, it is important to get fertilizer on the existing fescue this month.   

Mowing – Continue to mow often enough that you are removing no more than 1/3 of the blade of grass with each cutting.  For warm season turf, maintain the height at or near 2 – 2 1/2” going into the fall.  Avoid cutting short or scalping warm season lawns at this time.  Anytime you cut below the leaf space and into the stems of the plant, you are causing stress.  The plant will use nutrients stored in the root system to generate new leaves.  At this time of the season, you don’t want to cause any stress that would require the lawn to use nutrients stored for the winter. 

For cool season turf, it is best to cut the lawn shorter before seeding.  This will increase seed to soil contact.  After the new seed starts growing, gradually increase mowing height to 3”.

When you cut below the leaf blade into the stem your Bermuda lawn will have a scalped, brown appearance.

When you don’t mow your Bermuda too low in the fall, it will develop a stronger root system for the winter months.

Watering – The rainfall totals don’t reflect how dry it has been through the late summer. The metro area average rainfall for August is 4.6”, nearly double the typical August, but it all came in one storm.  Heavy rainfall doesn’t benefit your lawn, especially when it is followed by a long stretch of hot days.

Until we get a good gentle 1” rainfall, keep practicing good watering techniques.  Remember deep, infrequent watering is better than short frequent watering. 

Once nights and days begin to cool, and day length shortens, your landscape will need less water. Responsible watering is based on seasonal temperatures and moisture.  Typically, during September, you can start reducing the number of days you water. It is always best to maintain deep soakings and reduce the frequency.  At some point this month, it may be best to water every 4 days rather than on the odd/even plan.  

Continue to water trees planted in the last 12-18 months more than you water your lawn this month.  Supplemental watering is critical for new additions to the landscape. Place a water hose at the base of the tree with the water flowing at a slow trickle for a couple of hours once per week.  The goal is to get 10 gallons of water to the roots every week.

Maintain good soil moisture through September. The goal is to have moist soil 6-12” deep. If you have dry soil like the core in this picture you are allowing your lawn to go into the winter in a stressed condition.

Fall webworm can cause damage. When possible, pruning out the infected area is the best method of control.

Webworm – Watch for fall webworm in your trees. Webworm create webbing on the ends of tree branches as the worm devours the leaves. Webworm can have more than one generation per season.  The earlier generations do not cause lasting damage. But, the last generation can result in branch die back.  To treat with an insecticide, you must penetrate the webbing.  The most effective approach of control is to monitor trees and prune out the web areas while they are small.  Place webbing in a plastic bag and dispose of it immediately. If you leave the branches on the ground, you will be amazed at how quick the worms will be back in the tree.

Fall Color – Summer color will start to fade this month.  Before it does a good activity is to create a summer landscape journal.  Grab a few minutes and take pictures of your landscape while it is still warm.  Jot down a few notes about plants that are doing well and the ones that are struggling.

Next spring you will be glad to have the information when you make summer landscape plans. Too often we get excited about a plant that looks great in April and May only to have it disappoint when the heat is on in July and August. 

Toward the end of the month or early October you will want to replace your summer annuals with cool season annuals.  Pansies, mums, and kale are the dominate players.  Use more pansies than mums and kale since pansies typically overwinter and flourish the following spring. 

The Colors of September

Start making plans to replace your summer color with cold hardy annuals, such as pansies, later this month or early next month.

Hamelin Grass loads up with plums during September.

If you resisted the urge to prune what appeared spent blooms on your hydrangeas earlier in August, now you are getting to enjoy rosy pink shades late in the summer.

Crape Myrtle, our longest blooming plant, will continue to put on a show through September.

For as long as the weather stays warm tropical hibiscus will continue to produce big bright blooms.

A fun September blooming perennial is Autumn Sage

Liriope one of the easiest ground covers to grow puts on blue to purple flowers spikes in late summer.

A great late summer addition to the landscape are many of the warm season ornamental grasses.

Summer loving lantana will continue to bloom through September.

Abel is often graces the late summer with white flowers.

If you haven’t taken pictures and made notes of your best summer color this year, do so in the next couple of weeks.

I can’t wait for the cooler days of September when fescue lawns return to their grandeur and trees and shrubs appear more vibrant.

Our goal is to help you have your best lawn and landscape. 

If you need assistance with any of the September lawn and landscape tasks, or have questions concerning your lawn and landscape, give us call… (405) 367-3873. 

Lorne Hall

Hall |Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Trees – What Are Your Trees Worth?

Have you ever pondered the value of your trees?

Steve Dobbs, author of the book Oklahoma Gardener’s Guide put it this way: 

“Trees are truly the pillars of our landscapes.  Think of trees as an investment for future generations.”

So, what are trees worth? 

• Homes with “excellent” landscaping can expect a sale price 6-7% higher than equivalent houses with “good” landscaping. Improving “average” to “good” landscaping can result in a 4-5% increase.  Clemson University

• Landscaping can bring a recovery value of 100-200% at selling time. (Kitchen remodeling brings 75-125%, bathroom remodeling 20-120%).  Money Magazine

• A mature tree can have an appraised value between $1,000 and $10,000.  Council of Tree and Landscape Appraisers

• 99% of real estate appraisers concurred that landscaping enhances the sales appeal of real estate.  Trendnomics, National Gardening Association

• 98% of realtors believe that mature trees have a “strong or moderate impact” on the salability of homes listed for over $250,000.  American Forests, Arbor National Mortgage

What are some of the insect and disease issues that are currently threatening your landscape investment?

Scale – Common on trees and shrubs. Scales produce honeydew which is a growing medium for sooty mold fungi.  The honeydew also attracts ants.  Rarely do they kill a plant themselves, but they predispose plants to attack from other insects and pathogens.  There are two types of scale — soft scales, common on Redbud and Oaks, — and hard scales, such as the white scale found on Crape Myrtle.

White scale, a hard scale, is commonly found on Crape Myrtle. Just like soft scale on Oaks, rarely will it kill the plant but it does invite other insects and diseases that will cause harm.

Soft scale are common on Oaks. They rarely kill a tree but do weaken it making it susceptible to attacks from other insects and disease.

Bagworms – One of the most damaging pests in our landscapes.  Bagworms start out very small and hard to notice.  As they mature, their feeding becomes more apparent.  On evergreen trees, the tips will appear brown and unhealthy. As they continue to feed, plants can become defoliated and even die, especially on evergreen species because their leaves do not replenish as well as deciduous plants.

Evergreens with tips that are turning brown and looking unhealthy likely are being attacked by bagworms.

Bagworms start out very small and nearly unnoticeable, but as they grow and feed on evergreens they become one of the most damaging pest to our landscapes.

Webworms – Caterpillars weave a loose web around tree branches while they are munching on the leaves.  Favorite trees include hickory, mulberry, oak, pecan, popular, redbud, sweetgum, and willow.  But, you can find them on most ornamental shade trees when populations are heavy.  There can be 2 or 3 generations per season with the last generation causing damage when the branch tries to rebud just before a killing frost.  When this occurs, you can expect the affected branch to die.

Webworms weave loose webs around tree branches. The late summer to early fall generation can result in twig and branch die back.

Borers – Nearly all trees are subject to borers when they are injured or weakened by disease or stress.  Borer refers to the larval stage of some beetles and moths that feed inside the stems, branches, and trunks of plants.  Generally, the presence of borers is indicated by their emergence holes through the bark.  Other signs are a gummy fluid oozing from the tree, dead areas under the bark, or small piles of sawdust.  When left unchecked trees, will decline and are likely to die.  There are many types of borers with varying life cycles and habits. 

Evidence of borers are holes, oozing fluid and saw dust. Borers often attack trees that are injured or weakened by disease or stress.

This large Blue Atlas Cedar was under attack by borers last summer. Trunk injections were made with an insecticide to control boring and chewing insects.

Anthracnose – Spores are transported to new buds and shoots in the spring and are enhanced by cool, wet conditions.  There are many species of anthracnose that impact a variety of deciduous trees. The primary signs are tan to red-brown lesions that extend along the veins and edges of the leaf followed by considerable defoliation and sometime complete leaf loss.

Anthracnose is a fungus that results in leaves curling, wilting and defoliating.  The disease is enhanced by wet and cool conditions. 

Chloroses – Iron or manganese chlorosis describes a condition in which a tree’s foliage loses its healthy green color and fades to pale green or yellow hue.  If allowed to progress, it will cause slow growth, leaf loss and eventually tree death.  It is particularly prevalent in oaks.  It is caused by deficiencies of the micro-elements iron and manganese.  Trees growing in poorly drained soil are also susceptible. 

The signs of chloroses are leaves fading from a healthy green to pale green to yellow.

By injecting minerals directly into the tree, cholorses can be reversed.

A severe case of chloroses on a mature oak.

One year after treatment the oak leaves have returned to a healthy green color.

Sudden Oak Death – Sudden oak death is often a fatal tree disease caused by Phytophthora ramorum which attack roots. Leaves appear drought-stressed, turning dull green, yellow, red or purple as they wilt.  Bleeding cankers form at the base of the trunk and eventually lead to death.  The disease is often followed by beetle infestations. 

Sudden Oak Death will result in leaves turning brown, leaves appearing drought stressed and wilting. A trunk injection of a fungicide will give the tree a chance to recover.

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape Plant Health Care Professionals can help you keep your landscape investment healthy:   

Tree & Shrub Care Program –

Four regularly scheduled plant health care visits to keep your trees and shrubs healthy throughout the year. Program includes:

• Dormant oil application to smother overwintering insects

• Two spring to summer applications to minimize insect and disease population during the growing season

• Fall fertilizer application

• Applications are tailored to your plant species

Trunk Injections –

An effective treatment to control insect, disease and nutrient issues on larger trees. 

Specific formulations are injected directly into the truck where it is quickly taken up by the vascular system and distributed throughout the tree.

In most situations, the treatment provides protection for 12-18 months.

Unlike spraying, herbicides injected directly into the tree limits impact to the surrounding environment.

Deep Root Feeding –

Deep root feeding techniques inject fertilizer 5-6” below the surface ensuring fertilizer reaches tree roots.  As trees mature, they are in competition with the turf grass growing on top of roots for nutrients.

Deep root feeding restores soil health for struggling trees by providing essential nutrients.

Signs your large trees may need deep root feeding:

• Reduced foliage in the canopy.

• Light green to yellowish leaves.

• Little to no annual growth.

A healthy tree is more likely to withstand harsh weather conditions, pest infestations, and diseases.

We believe…

• Trees are worth it. 

• Trees make a difference in the appearance of our communities. 

• Trees make a difference in the way we feel. 

• Trees increase the value of a property.

• Trees, trees... trees just make the world a better place!

We believe trees are the pillars of our landscapes.  

Hall | Stewart’s goal is to help you have your best lawn and landscape. 

If your trees need help, please call (405)367-3873 or respond to this email to schedule a time for a Plant Health Care Professional to visit your landscape.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

The Fall Pre-Emergent – The Application That Sets Your Lawn Up For Success Next Spring

A large portion of lawn care activities are all about setting up the next season for success. 

Yes, it is still summer. 

Yes, the days are still warm. 

Yet, we are already focused on the fall and making sure you have your best lawn next spring.

It is often hard to keep up the enthusiasm for your lawn and landscape this time of year.  The dog days of summer have taken all the enjoyment out of working on your lawn and landscape.  Then, add on the busyness of the start of the school year and it is often hard to keep up with the best lawn and landscape practices.    

But, when it comes to having your best lawn, the worst thing you can do is give up now.  Finishing the season strong is important.

An early fall pre-emergent before fall & winter annual weeds start to germinate as temperatures cool this fall is the key to having your best lawn next spring.

Why?  Because:  Nothing sets up your lawn for success next spring more than what you do now!

The most critical lawn care applications are the ones that include pre-emergent herbicides. 

Everyone knows the importance of the spring applications, but did you know that the fall applications are just as critical?

Why are the fall pre-emergent applications so important?

Fall pre-emergent applications are the key to having a clean lawn next spring.

Fall pre-emergent applications prevent poa annua, rescuegrass, cheat, brome, chickweed, and henbit.  These are the weeds that clutter your lawn in the spring. 

Bermuda lawns that do not receive the early fall pre-emergent soon run the risk of being very weedy next March and April as the green up.

---

Common chickweed is a winter annual broadleaf with a prostrate, mat-like growth (rarely higher than 2") and broad egg shaped leaves spaced evenly and opposite each other along the stem with small white flowers in the spring. One interesting fact about chickweed seeds - they can remain viable in the soil for 7-8 years. Chickweed is another winter annual that is easily prevented and when not prevented is fairly easy to control in the winter to early spring, but very difficult to control once flower production begins in spring. As with many weed issues, the tried-and-true best defense against chickweed is a thick and lush lawn going into the fall.

Henbit is a broadleaf winter annual weed with greenish to purplish square stems, green scallop edged leaves, and reddish purple flower in the spring. Seeds germinate in the fall but the weed often goes unnoticed until we have periods of warm winter weather when henbit grows best. Henbit is easily prevented with fall pre-emergent applications but can be difficult to control in late spring when it is mature, flowering and littering your lawn. As with most weeds, a dense turf is the best prevention against the development of henbit.

Henbit

Poa annua, also known as annual bluegrass, is the fall’s equivalent to spring’s crabgrass.  Without a fall pre-emergent, your lawn will not be clean next spring. Just like crabgrass, when it is mature, poa annua is hard to control without causing turf injury.  Next spring, we want your lawn to be focused on emerging from dormancy without the harmful effects of harsh post-emergent herbicide applications.

How a Bermuda lawn looks in April when no fall pre-emergent applications were made.

Poa Annua is a winter annual grassy weed that will germinate this fall. Without a fall pre-emergent application there is a good chance your lawn will be full of poa annua next spring.

Poa Annua is a low growing winter annual weed that will have white seed heads next spring. A pre-emergent between now and the end of September is a critical step in not having a lawn full of weeds next spring.

Poa Annua germinates and thrives in thin areas of fescue during the fall, winter and spring. Poa Annua does not have a competitive advantage over fescue when it is thick, healthy and actively growing. Overseeding thin fescue in the fall is a great way to prevent poa annua.

Poa Annua is an annual grassy weed that invades lawns in the fall and winter. It is a lighter green clumping grass with small white flowers (seed heads) in the spring. Germination occurs in moist soil starting in the fall when night temperatures drop into the 60s and continues through the winter and spring. Poa Annua has a competitive advantage over bermuda in the winter when it is activity growing and the bermuda is dormant.

---

The goal with a warm season bermuda lawn is for it to be clean of winter weeds this winter and coming spring. Fall pre-emergent applications are the key.

Weeds are easier to prevent in the fall than they are to control in the spring. 

Poa annua, also known as annual bluegrass, is the fall’s equivalent to spring’s crabgrass.  Without a fall pre-emergent, your lawn will not be clean next spring. And, just like crabgrass, when it is mature, poa annua is hard to control without causing turf injury. 

Next spring, we want your lawn to be focused on emerging from dormancy without the harmful effects of harsh post-emergent herbicide applications. Lawns that do not receive the early fall pre-emergent application will be filled with weeds next February through April.  While lawns that receive fall applications will start next year clean and healthy. 

Timing of the fall pre-emergent applications is critical.  As temperatures cool in the fall, cool season annual weeds will germinate. 

The first application for the fall needs to be made sometime between mid-August and end of September.

A second application should be put on your lawn 6-10 weeks after the first fall application to ensure full weed control until the lawn emerges from dormancy next spring. Research shows that poa annua has developed resistance to pre-emergent applications.  A second fall pre-emergent in October through November increases control of poa annua.

Next spring when the crabapples are in bloom and fescue is green, Bermuda lawns should be weed free. This is only possible if a fall pre-emergent is applied between late August and early October with a second application 4-6 weeks later.

There is only one reason to NOT put the first fall pre-emergent application on your lawn: SEEDING FESCUE.

The same pre-emergent herbicide that prevents annual weeds from germinating WILL PREVENT new grass seed from coming up.  Because developing a thick turf is so critical to good weed control, and because September through October is by far the best time to establish a cool season lawn, not applying a pre-emergent herbicide to the areas you are seeding is the right thing to do.  Once the new seed is up, actively growing, and has been mowed 3-4 times, you can apply a fall pre-emergent application. 

Note:  If you are only seeding a portion of your lawn, you should have a pre-emergent applied to the areas you are not seeding. 

The only exception to the early fall pre-emergent being a must for your best lawn next spring is if you are overseeding with fescue this fall. If overseeding, skip the early pre-emergent, seed with fescue, then apply the late fall pre-emergent after the newly seeded area has been mowed a few times.

Important – If you are planning on seeding all or part of your lawn this fall, please let us know so we can adjust your applications accordingly.

Need help deciding if you need to overseed all or parts of your lawn with fescue this fall?  Check out last week’s email:  Bermuda vs Fescue. The Choice is Yours!

Dormant Bermuda will be weed free in February and March when both fall pre-emergent applications are on schedule.

If you are not overseeding all your lawn with fescue this fall, it is important to not skip the early fall pre-emergent. All the areas you are not seeding need the early application to look their best next spring.

Fall pre-emergent applications will ensure your lawn is not full of annual winter weeds next March.

DO NOT apply the early fall pre-emergent on your lawn if you are planning on seeding with fescue this fall.

Please contact us if you plan to overseed with fescue this fall so we can adjust our application plans for your lawn.

There are 4 types of lawn care customers:

1. Customers who subscribe to the Hall | Stewart 7-step program and enjoy having a clean, healthy and growing turf.  If you are on the 7-step program, you will receive both fall pre-emergent applications.

2. Customers who want to make sure their lawn receives timely pre-emergent herbicides but enjoy applying their own fertilizer.  If this defines you, you are receiving the Hall | Stewart 4-step weed control only program and will receive the 2 fall pre-emergent applications. 

3. The occasional application customer who takes a few applications, often the early spring applications.  If this defines you, please don’t skip the fall pre-emergent steps this year.  You will not regret the fall applications next spring when your lawn starts the year weed free.  

4. Customers who have “thrown in the towel” on this season and plan on starting again next spring.  If this defines you, a great lawn next spring doesn’t start next spring.  A great lawn next season starts this fall.

Remember – it is always easier to prevent weeds than it is to kill actively growing weeds.

Nothing will make a bigger difference in the way your lawn looks next spring than applying both fall pre-emergent applications this year.

If you have any questions about fall pre-emergent herbicides, please give us a call at (405)367-3873.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Bermuda vs Fescue – The Choice is Yours!

When it comes to turfgrass, Oklahoma is blessed to be in the transition zone. 

What is the transition zone?  It is an area across the middle of the US between where warm season turf grows in the south and cool season grasses grow in the north. 

The Transition Zone is the area of the country you can choose to grow either warm season or cool season grasses.

Bermuda is the common warm season turfgrass in our region.  The advantage of bermuda is that it loves the summer heat and as long as it receives some moisture, it will be at its best in July and August.

But, bermuda has limits.  The biggest being that it requires 6 hours of direct sunlight to be thick and healthy.  Second, it goes dormant in November and doesn’t green up until April, leaving you with a lifeless, straw-brown lawn for months.  

Bermuda will look its best when it receives at least 6 hours of full sun everyday.

Fescue is the best grass for lawns where is less than 6 hours of direct sunlight per day.

 Fescue is the cool season alternative.  Fescue tolerates more shade and stays green nearly year-round.  You can’t beat the deep rich color in the spring and fall.  The turf is so soft under your feet. Mowing patterns are sharp.  Fescue stays green well into December, keeps some color through the winter, and as soon as the winter starts to break in early March, fescue bursts back to life.

But to be fair, fescue has limits as well.  Fescue, because it is a cool season grass, goes through a summer off season.  About the time bermuda lawns are looking their best, fescue goes through a slump in late July to early August when 95-100 temperatures are common.   Growth slows, depth of color fades, and although improved varieties of fescue are more drought tolerant, fescue still needs water during the summer to stay green. 

 Early August is the perfect time to evaluate your lawn.  If you have a bermuda lawn, are there areas that are not receiving sufficient light for a thick, healthy bermuda turf?  If you have a fescue lawn, how has it faired this year with the drier than normal and warmer than normal June?   

Fescue is best established during September and October.  With cooler days and nights just around the corner, now is the best time to evaluate your lawn for the need to establish fescue or add more fescue. 

VERY CRITICAL

Evaluation and decision to seed or not to seed this fall must be made before the first fall pre-emergent application is made in late August through September.

Let’s take a minute to explore ways to use fescue in your lawn…

Fescue in the Shady Areas Only

This is the most traditional approach.  

Any place where your lawn doesn’t receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight - under trees, on the northside of structures, and those narrow areas between houses and fences - are all prime areas for fescue. 

Often homeowners put effort into trimming trees in an attempt to get enough light and allow bermuda to grow.  But, in most cases, tree trimming or thinning rarely solves the problem. 

The best solution is to overseed the areas with fescue in the fall. 

The negative to “fescue only in the shady areas” approach is a lawn mixed with green and dormant colors during the fall, winter, and early spring.

Full Fescue Lawn

A common myth is fescue won’t grow in full sun. 

Fescue performs best in dappled shade to partial sun, does very well in full sun when maintained properly, and struggles the most in dense, heavy shade. 

A full fescue lawn is the best solution for the typical sized lawn with a few trees making caring for both cool season and warm season turf difficult. 

A fescue lawn in dappled sunlight.

Fescue is relatively drought tolerant but needs water during the summer to stay green. This fescue lawn is in mostly full sun and during summer’s drought & heat has been receiving 1.5” of water.

Two Approaches To Managing A Full Fescue Lawn

1.     Managing Fescue Over Bermuda

With this approach fertilizing, weed control, mowing, aerating, and overseeding focuses on promoting the fescue and suppressing the bermuda. 

• Fescue needs heavy fertilizer in the spring and fall, and none in the summer – the exact opposite of bermuda. 

• Weed control herbicides designed for fescue and not bermuda are used resulting in bermuda suppression. 

• Fescue responds well to being mowed taller, 3” to 3 ½”, while bermuda prefers a shorter height of 2” to 2 ½”. 

• Aeration occurs in the fall, not early summer. 

• And, overseeding with fescue in the fall keeps the fescue full and stresses the bermuda going into the winter. 

The negative - You will still notice some bermuda in the lawn during July and August, but with deep, infrequent watering practices, the fescue will remain the dominate turf. 

Fescue will loose color in 95+ degree temperatures if it doesn’t receive at least 1.5” of water per week.

2.     Full Fescue Only

An aggressive approach to removing bermuda from the fescue is used. 

Because bermuda is the dominate turfgrass in our region, it is difficult to have a completely bermuda free fescue lawn. 

If this is your goal, aggressive herbicide treatments in August followed by overseeding in September is required. 

The negative – Your lawn will look bad before it looks good. There will be a 4-to-6-week period between the first application and when the new fescue grows in. But, you will notice substantially less bermuda the next growing season.  You can expect to repeat this process every 2 to 3 years to keep bermuda eradicated.

I have used this process on occasion with success, but is not the preferred method due to the poor appearance of the lawn for several weeks until the new fescue grows in.

Fescue growing in full sun over Bermuda.

Fescue with bermuda in August before treatment to control bermuda.

Lawn 2 weeks after treatment to control bermuda.

Fescue 4 weeks after treatment to control bermuda just before overseeding in September.

A fescue lawn in July.

A fescue lawn in the fall.

A fescue lawn in the fall.

As our environment continues to have more and more trees, fescue will become more and more a part of our landscape environment. 

Whether you desire to have a full fescue lawn or just need to address the shady areas of your lawn, September through October is the best time to establish fescue from seed.  As a cool season grass, it is much easier for newly established grass to survive the winter. 

Spring seeded fescue typically does not have enough of a root system to survive the summer and is more susceptible to brown patch disease. The best time to seed fescue is in the fall.  The second-best time is in the spring, but the chasm between fall and spring is large.

New fescue 30 days after seeding.

Three keys to successful fall fescue seeding:

1. Quality Fescue Blend Seed

2. Aeration for good seed to soil contact.

3. Keeping the seeded area tacky moist until the new seed comes up.

Bonus Tip - Newly seeded grass needs to be kept consistently moist for 2-3 weeks after seeding. 

The inability to keep new seed moist is the number one reason new seed fails. 

Now is the time to schedule an Irrigation Check to make sure your system is ready for fall overseeding.

Request an inspection today by responding to this email or calling (405)367-3873.

A key to successful fescue seeding is keeping the seed moist until it germinates. Check your system now for even coverage to avoid seed failure in dry areas this fall.

If you need help evaluating your need for fescue and would like to discuss your options, please give us a call (405)367-3873.

VERY CRITICAL

Evaluation and decision to seed or not to seed this fall must be made before the first fall pre-emergent application is made in late August through September.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

August Lawn & Landscape Tips

We have arrived at the hottest, driest point of the season.  The last 10 days of July and the first 10 days of August are when Oklahoma City’s average daily temperature reaches its peak.

The key to surviving the hottest period of the season is best practices.

Best practices, not just during times of high stress, but rather it is best practices all the time that make the difference.

To finish the summer strong, here are a few best practices to focus on:

This week I started mowing my fescue lawn one setting higher. More leaf space results in better heat and drought tolerance.

Mowing – Both warm season turf (Bermuda and Zoysia) and cool season turf (Fescue) should be mowed at the highest level this month, warm season 2-2.5” and cool season up to 3-3.5”.  At the higher level the lawn will have more leaf space resulting in better heat and drought tolerance. Continue to mow often enough that you are removing only 1/3 of the grass each time you cut.  If you are cutting frequently enough to pass the 1/3 test, don’t catch the clippings.  Allowing the clippings to decompose on the lawn will return moisture and nitrogen to the soil. Give no bagging a try.  You will be surprised at how much more color your lawn will retain even in the heat.  When you bag your clippings, you are tossing out nitrogen and moisture your lawn could really use this month.

Best Mowing Practice for August – Mow high, mow often, and don’t bag your clippings.

Bermuda lawns perform their best in the heat. Mow often and don’t bag the clippings. Grass clippings are mostly nitrogen and moisture. Your lawn will thank you for giving them back.

After mulch mowing, use your blower to distribute any noticeable clippings.

Well maintained Bermuda lawns can’t be beat in August.  This Bermuda lawn is the result of best practices this summer: well timed lawn care applications, aeration in June, deep infrequent watering, and mulch mowing.

Brown Patch develops in fescue lawns that have an area of low air circulation or heavy shade during the summer if the area stays wet for more than 5 hours at a time. Don't create Brown Patch with your watering practices. Allow your fescue time to dry between waterings.

Healthy lawns have deep root systems.  Roots will grow to the moisture.  If your watering pattern is short, shallow, frequent watering resulting in moisture only in the top 1-2”, you will have a shallow rooted lawn dependent upon daily water.  Deep soaking results in a root system with grass roots 6” to 2’ deep that is not dependent upon frequent watering and is drought resistant. 

Remember, trees planted in the last two years need supplemental watering during the summer heat and extended dry periods. A good rule of thumb is to give them 10 gallons of water every week.

Best Watering Practice for August – Know how long you need to water to get 1 ½” water on your lawn each week.  Practice deep soaking, infrequent watering.

Watering – The abundant soil moisture from the wet July start has quickly disappeared over the past week. The best-looking lawns and landscapes are now receiving 1 ½” of water per week now.   

To learn how long and how often you need to water for your landscape to receive 1 ½” of moisture, place your Hall | Stewart Rain Gauge or cans around your lawn.  Water using your normal cycle and then check the cups.  Adjust watering times and frequency accordingly to insure 1 ½” is applied each week.  Remember your landscape prefers deep soaking, infrequent watering over shallow, frequent watering.  Even in the heat, lawns and landscapes are at their best when they are watered deeply as needed and not every day.

Take time to check your irrigation and fine tune it. A leaning head often is the culprit for dry spots in the lawn.

If you are unsure about your watering practices, let us help. 

We can schedule an Irrigation Audit/Check to make sure your system

is operating at its peak efficiency during the summer heat.

Fertilizer – Apply fertilizer to warm season turf this month.  This time of the year, Bermuda and Zoysia benefit from a high nitrogen fertilizer that is low in phosphorus and potassium. 

DO NOT fertilize cool season lawns until we reach the cooler temperatures of September.   

Warm and cool season turfs require different fertilizer schedules.  Don’t make the mistake of trying to treat them the same when it comes to fertilizing.   

Best Fertilizer Practice for August – Fertilize bermudagrass, don’t fertilize fescue.  Important - Follow watering instructions after fertilizer is applied.

August is the month to be less aggressive on weed control. Because a thick turf is the most important part of good weed control, you want to avoid weakening the turf going into the fall.

Weed Control – Spring pre-emergent herbicides are reaching the end of their effectiveness in your soils.  Should an occasional weed show up in your turf this month, it is best to go easy on weed control.  We have reached the time of the year that damaged turf may not have a chance to fully recover before fall.  Great weed control is at least 75% the result of thick turf.  August is the month to focus on turf development going into the fall.

Later this month is the best time to start applying the first fall pre-emergent herbicide application.  The first fall weed to germinate is poa annua (annual bluegrass).  Poa annua has become more and more of a problem to control in lawns worldwide as it has developed resistance to current herbicide chemistry.  For the best prevention, it is important to put a pre-emergent on your lawn between mid-August and the end of September followed by a second pre-emergent, using a different herbicide, in October or November. 

Best Weed Control Practice for August – Don’t cause turf damage by over-treating weeds.  Better to go into the fall with a thick turf than one with herbicide damaged thin areas.

Bermuda vs Fescue in August – Bermuda (warm season turf) loves the summer heat.  Fescue (cool season turf) prefers nights below 70 and days below 90.  Healthy bermuda lawns look their best in the heat of the summer.  Healthy fescue will retain color, although not as much as in early summer, and growth will slow. 

Fescue where there is plenty of air circulation and dabbled sunlight typically looks best in the warm weather.  Fescue lawns with heavy shade and little air circulation tend to think from brown patch disease.  Brown patch occurs in fescue lawns anytime the grass stays wet for 5 hours or more at a time and nighttime temperatures are in the 70s.  During the hottest and driest time of the season, brown patch is often self-inflicted by watering your fescue in the morning and evening, a common by incorrect watering habit on fescue lawns in July and August.

Inspect Shady Lawn Areas - September through October is the best time of the year to establish fescue.  Now is the time to assess the areas of the lawn where bermuda has become thin due to increasing shade (Bermuda needs at least 6 hours of direct sunlight to be thick), areas of the lawn where fescue did not perform well because of very dense shade (Fescue needs at least some dappled sun), and areas of fescue that have been damaged by brown patch this summer.   Because fescue does not spread you should plan on adding some seed every fall.

Best Fescue Lawn Practice for August – Inspect and evaluate your turf.  Check shade patterns and make a plan for overseeding low light areas with fescue this fall.

Need Help Evaluating Your Shady Areas? 

We would be happy to evaluate your shade and make a recommendation. 

Just give us a call at (405)367-3873 or respond to this email.

Insect Watch – If grubs have been a problem in your lawn, August is the time to apply an insecticide.  Remember, the insecticide will kill desirable insects also.  Only treat for grubs if there is evidence of a problem.  

Continue to inspect shrubs for aphids and treat as needed.  A common host plant is the Crape Myrtle.

Inspect your trees and shrubs for active bagworms.  If you need help controlling bagworms, give us a call.  When possible, remove and throw away bagworms.  Don’t toss them on the ground because they will crawl back onto your plants. 

Watch for webworms in your trees this month.  The later generations of webworm are the ones that cause damage.  If noticed early when the webbing is small, simply cutting the branch out is the best control.  If spraying is required, you must penetrate the webbing to gain control.

Best Insect Control Practice for August – Spend a few minutes inspecting your lawn and landscape for insect activity.  Treat as needed.

A common problem on Hackberry trees in the summer is nipple gall. Unfortunately little can be done to control gall-making insects.

When you remove bagworms please dispose of them. This little guy is slowly climbing back up a tree to do more destruction.

This summer’s Crape Myrtle colors have been brilliant.

How is your summer color doing?  This year my planting of Joseph Coat, Sunpatiens, Lantana, and Penta has put on a great show.

Limelight Hydrangeas can’t be beat for colorful summer shrub. This is a ‘Little Lime’ and is great for smaller areas.

Landscape Color – How has the color been in your landscape this season?  Sometime this month take pictures and make notes of the plants that are doing the best in your landscape.   

• Black-eyed Susan’s are the perfect perennial to add color to the landscape during July and August. 

• Crape Myrtles are loving the warm days and rewarding us with abundant summer color this year.

• Limelight Hydrangeas continue to brighten the landscape even on the hottest of days. 

• Lantana, Penta, and Periwinkle are at their best now. 

What is adding great color to your landscape right now?  We want to know.  Send pictures please.

Lantana is one of the best heat-loving annuals and with so many varieties, there is a right one for every landscape.

Angelonia is becoming a favorite summer annual. It has profile spikes of color and is available in white and shades of pinks and purples.

Crape Myrtle and Black-eyed Susan’s are a great color combination for late summer color.

Coleus is a great summer annual with big colorful leaves that at interest to the summer landscape.

Black-eyed Susan’s add a splash of bright color to the hot summer landscape.

Lantana is one of the best annual color plants for a summer filled with above average temperatures.

Shasta Daisies are nearing the end of their summer color show.

The best perennial plantings are the ones that have something blooming spring to fall. I challenge you to find another perennial that puts on a better color show in August than Black-eyed Susans.  

Keep faded blooms pruned off and you will extend their bloom time a few more weeks.

August is a great time to evaluate your summer annual color and make notes on what worked and what didn’t. This planting of Sunpatien, Begonia, Penta, Joseph Coat, and Melampodium started the summer looking great. But over the last few weeks the Melampodium has over powered the rest of the color. Note: “If using Melampodium plant it in the back.”

Black-eyed Susan

Hardy Hibiscus

Caladium and Impatiens

Sunpatiens

Crape Myrtle

Magnolia

Crape Myrtle

Trumpet Vine

Limelight Hydrangea

Lantana

Sunpatien

Penta

Wisteria

Lantana

Lantana

Periwinkle & Gomphrena  

Crape Myrtle

Mexican Petunia

Zinnia

Zinnia

Sunflower

Black-eyed Susan

Tropical Hibiscus and Sweet Potato Vine

Penta, Sunpatien, Coleus, Joseph’s Coat, and Angelonia

Caladium & Impatiens

Having a great lawn and landscape through the heat of the summer is a result of good maintenance practices year after year. 

A great lawn and landscape are not the result of one season, or even a full year of focus. 

A great environment is the result of discovering and developing great practices and then repeating them season after season, year after year.

If you need assistance in developing great practices or have questions concerning your lawn and landscape, give us a call.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405) 367-3873

Grubs – Our Most Consistent Turf Damaging Insect

For those of you who experienced the army worm invasion of 2021, I’m confident you disagree with “Grubs are the most consistent turf damaging insect.”

The key word is “consistent.”  

Yes, there are many turf damaging insects and when conditions are just right, and populations increase, damage occurs.  That was the case in July and August of 2021.  Army worm populations reached damaging levels, resulting in battalions of army worms marching across lawns.

But grubs…Grubs are a consistent pest, every year!

White grubs consistently, year over year, cause more turf damage than any other insect. 

Here is what you need to know about grubs…

Grubs are white, c-shaped, insects with three sets of legs who feed on all types of turfgrass roots.

What is a grub worm –

Grubs, specially called White Grubs, are white, C-shaped insects with a chestnut-colored head and 3 pairs of legs.  Size will range from ¼” to 1 ½” in length depending on age. 

They feed on grass roots of all types of turf resulting in yellowing, wilting turf, dead patches, and when left unchecked they will destroy the grass roots to the point that your lawn can be rolled up like it is a piece of carpet.

Signs you have a grub problem -

Early indications of grub damage may include patchy areas of wilting, discolored or stressed turf resembling drought stress. 

As the grubs continue to destroy roots, the effected patches expand outward into irregular shaped patches of dying turf.   

If you have areas that are wilting, discolored, stressed or dying, it could be grubs, our most consistent turf damaging insect.

Often grubs will start out centralized in an area, but will spread throughout an entire lawn when left untreated.

 An indication you have white grubs (often before you have any idea you have a grub problem) is damage caused by armadillos, skunks, possums, and raccoons foraging for grubs.   If your home is near wooded or native areas, damage from animals digging for grubs is more common.

Animals foraging for grubs will destroy your lawn in just one night. If you have experienced this, annual preventative grub control treatments should be a part of your routine maintenance plan.

The first step in confirming if you have a grub problem is to check your irrigation for proper coverage.  Place a Hall | Stewart Water Gauge or any container in the area showing signs of wilting, run your system through a cycle to see if the area is receiving sufficient moisture. 

The next step is to dig up small sections on the edge of the dying grass to see if grubs are present. 

The third step is to pull on the grass to see if it comes up easily with few roots. 

If you can pull up the grass in the damaged area easily, as if there are no roots hold the turf down, then grubs have been feeding on the grass roots.

If the stressed area is receiving water,

if you find grubs when you dig around the edges of the area,

if you can easily pull the turf up,

treatment is required.

If you find an occasional grub, it is common to find a grub, it does not mean you have a grub problem or that treatment is needed.    

In a healthy turf, 5 to 10 grubs per square foot is considered the threshold above which damage will occur.

The grub life cycle -

White grubs complete their life cycle of egg, larva, pupa and adult in one year. 

The June bug (beetle), the adult form of the grub worm, emerges in late May to early July.  The beetles, attracted to outdoor lights and light from windows, are mostly active in the night.  After mating, females burrow into the soil and lay about 50 eggs. 

The adult form of the White Grub worm is the June Bug.  June Bugs lay eggs in July which become White Grubs in August.

Two to three weeks later the larvae hatch and start feeding first on organic matter, later moving to grass roots. 

Grubs go through three stages as they grow.  In each stage, their size and appetite grow exponentially. 

Stage 1 - Late summer through the fall, grubs are small and feeding near the soil surface. During this phase grubs grow rapidly, feed heavily, and are fully grown by early September. 

Stage 2 - During the winter, grubs move deeper into the soil and are mostly dormant. 

Stage 3 - In the spring, grubs begin moving closer to the soil surface.  As soil temperatures warm, the full-grown grub returns to heavy feeding and can be very destructive.    

In late May and early June, the larvae return to adulthood as the June beetle starts the cycle all over again.

Because the June beetle is attracted to light, eggs are commonly laid near outdoor lights. 

If you live near a neighborhood streetlight or leave your outdoor lights on at night, you are more likely to see heavier populations of June beetles and consequently a higher probability of grub damage.

Control

There are two methods for controlling white grubs: Preventive and Curative. 

Preventive applications of insecticides are systemic in nature.  Preventive insecticides are absorbed by the turfgrass roots.  As grubs feed on treated roots, they consume a lethal dose of the insecticide.  Preventive applications are best applied April through early summer. 

Curative applications of insecticides are applied in August through the fall.  Curative applications control the insect by making contact with the insect.  Contact insecticides are most effective when the grubs are small and feeding near the surface in the late summer and early fall. 

There are two approaches to grub control:

Approach 1 – Preventive Plan.  If you have a history of grub damage, have outdoor lighting, have experienced the destruction of animals foraging for grubs, preventive applications of grub control should be a part of your normal maintenance program. 

Approach 2 – Wait and See.  Inspection of your lawn on a regular basis is the key to this approach.   If you see areas of wilting, yellowing, or dying turf, check the area by first making sure the area is not just dry, then dig around the area to see if grubs are present, then tug on the turf to see if it comes up easily.   Follow up with a curative insecticide if you find grubs are the cause of the stress you are witnessing.

Note:  When making a grub treatment, watering is important. If soil is dry, watering (1/4-1/2”) before the application will encourage grubs to come closer to the surface.  After the insecticide is applied, water is required to move the insecticide into the soil where the grubs are feeding.  It is best to water within 2-3 days as the insecticide will not be active until it is watered into the soil. 

Hall | Stewart wants you to help you have your best lawn!

Control of grubs is an important step in having your best lawn!

If you need help determining if you have a grub problem or if you have had grub problems in the past, we would be glad to help. 

Simply call (405)367-3873 or reply to this email.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

What is your lawn doing for you?

Hard to believe, but we have arrived at the mid-point of the lawn care season.  That’s right…if you typically mow your lawn 30 times per season, you have probably made 15 trips across your lawn so far in 2024. 

So, why do you do it?  What motivates you to have a great lawn?

Why does Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape have a passion for helping you have your best lawn?

Are all our efforts only in the pursuit of laying claim to the best lawn on the block?   

Why do we work so hard to have a great lawn? 

Is there anything more to a healthy, green lawn than curb appeal and feeling good about ourselves?

Have you ever pondered what a healthy lawn does for you?

Too often great lawns get a bad rap. 

In the race to reduce carbon output and conserve water, have we forgotten the long list of benefits of a healthy lawn? 

Concerns over water supplies, herbicides, pollutants, and your carbon footprint have caused some to race toward a more minimalist approach to landscapes and lawns. 

Has the American lawn, green, neatly trimmed, symbol of civic virtue, outlived its purpose?

Is it good for the environment when living plants are replaced with artificial materials or hardscape?

Yes, water will be saved.  Yes, there will be less fertilizer used. 

But is there more to consider?

When it comes to the benefits of turfgrass most people don’t give it much thought.  The environmental benefits of a healthy lawn are seldom considered.

Can you answer the question, “What is your lawn doing for you?”

Let’s explore a few things your lawn is doing for you:

Turfgrass captures carbon.

Healthy lawns absorb carbon dioxide and replace it with oxygen.  A lawn is simply a grouping of thousands of oxygen making plants.

The average, managed lawn captures more carbon than a lawnmower produces.

The average lawn captures 300 lbs. of carbon per year and has a net positive impact on our environment. 

---

A 2,500 sq. ft lawn, half the size of the average lawn, provides enough oxygen for a family of four. 

---

What is a managed lawn?  A lawn that receives regular mowing, some fertilizer and weed control applications.  Maintaining a healthy turfgrass environment provides us with a critical component of a healthy world – less carbon.  

• An Ohio State Study found lawns that received only an occasional mowing and no fertilizer or weed control capture far less carbon.   

Maintenance habits have a big influence on whether turfgrass helps or hurts the environment. Lawns cut too short typically create a negative carbon exchange.  Weedy lawns, nutrient deficient lawns, and drought stress lawns result in thin lawns that have a negative impact on the environment.    

• EPA reports that turf grasses in the United States offset the carbon emissions of 5.2 million cars every year.

Actively growing and healthy lawns reduce heat.  

A well-maintained lawn around homes can reduce air temperatures on the average 15 to 30 degrees compared to concrete, asphalt or gravel.

• The California Energy Commission found the cooling effect of an average size lawn is equal to nearly 9 tons of air conditioning.

Grass cools the air by absorbing solar radiation and through evapotranspiration.

• Studies estimate that improved planting and maintenance of lawns and landscapes around homes could reduce total US air conditioning requirements by 25%. 

A healthy turf captures pollutants and reduces runoff.  

Less runoff increases infiltration of water into the groundwater supply.  A dense root system traps and removes pollutants moving through the soil and into the water supply.  The natural filtration system of healthy turfgrass improves water quality. 

• Lawns are the best natural water purifier.

Turfgrass is more effective at stopping erosion than any other plant.  Grass naturally slows runoff and allows more water to be absorbed.

Healthy lawns improve air quality.   

Healthy lawns contribute to improved air quality by acting as traps for dust and particles.  Because a lawn completely covers a soil surface, particles are prevented from being blown to another area.

• Compared to hard surfaces, turf grass traps 10 to 30 times more air particles and pollution.

Lawns are a major component of higher home values.

Smart Money reported consumers value a home with a well-maintained lawn and landscape on average 11.3% over the base value. 

Well maintained lawns are one of the most important factors individuals and families consider when deciding where to live.

Yes, there is a place for synthetic turf in the landscape as a part of an experiential environment.

Great lawns benefit the community and human health.

Green areas enhance community pride, provide places for people to come together and promote outdoor activity. 

Lawns knit neighborhoods together.  Lawns connect people.

Studies show people who live and work with a view of lawns and landscapes compared to hard surfaces are found to recover from stress quicker, experience fewer headaches, and are more productive.

• Two studies show that children with Attention-Deficit/Hyperactivity Disorder have shown that green spaces, such as lawn areas, experience less severe symptoms.

Studies have also found the noise absorption capacity of turfgrass is significant.

Lawns are where memories are made.  No doubt, everyone can easily think of fond memories on the lawn with family and friends.

The belief that well maintained lawns are an environmental liability is short-sighted. 

Don’t fall for myth that a healthy lawn isn’t good for the environment. 

Water concerns are legitimate. Education on proper watering is important.  Deep, infrequent watering, based on the lawn’s needs, is a key to developing a healthy lawn that is good for the environment. 

• The scientific study “The Role of Turfgrasses in Environmental Protection and Their Benefits to Humans” stated, “the main cause for excessive landscape water use in most situations is the human factor.”

Excessive use of fertilizers and herbicides is a problem.  But, when used properly, according to the label, fertilizers and herbicides are important ingredients in creating a healthy lawn that is beneficial to the world in which we live, work and play.

• James Beard, Professor Emeritus of Texas A&M, said, “The environmental benefits of turfgrass are the most sensible and economically feasible approach to counter the greenhouse effect.”

So, what has your lawn done for you lately? 

Far more than you can imagine!

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Great Landscape Plantings Have 3 Levels

After last week’s post, What’s Bugging Your Landscape? complete with pictures of yucky bugs, I’m ready to return to a post with inspirational pictures!  As one response last week put it, “this one made my skin crawl a little bit.”

Ever wonder what is the difference between an average landscape planting and a great landscape planting? 

Great landscape plantings contain three levels:  a front, a middle, and a back.

Let’s start with some basic design math:

• Front – No more than 18” in height.  Low ground covers, perennials, annual color and small plants.

• Middle – Perennials, annual color, and smaller shrubs with enough height to start creating levels. 18” to 3’ in height.

• Back – Shrubs and small trees.  3’ or more in height. 

Note - Read the plant label and believe what it says about plant height and growing conditions.  Remember, plants perform their best if they are allowed to grow to their natural height and form.  If you have only 4’ of height for your back level, don’t plant a shrub with a mature height of 10’ with the idea you will keep it pruned.  Even if you are diligent with your maintenance, the plant will never look as good as it would if it could grow naturally.

A newly planted landscape with boxwood and hydrangea for the back. Spirea, drift roses and perennials in the middle, and annual color in the front.

Walls and fences don’t count as the third level.  To get the full impact, you need three levels in front of the object.

When selecting plants don’t go for all evergreen plants or all flowering plants.  A mixture of evergreens with interesting leaf shapes and colors will add more interest. 

The levels don’t have to be in a continuous, linear run of all the same plant material.  A layer can contain a mixture of plants.  Often the middle level works well with a few, specimen plants of interest, or groupings of perennials.  Every landscape should include a few surprises.

Even in patio pots, planting for three levels adds interest.  This pot contains a variegated euonymus for height, penta for the middle, and trailing periwinkle.

A few ideas to get you started:

• Large ornamental grasses in the back, flowering shrubs in the middle, with a ground cover boarder in the front.

• Crape myrtle in the back, evergreen shrubs in the middle, and annual color in the front.

• Evergreens for the back with a mix of perennials in the middle and ground covers in the front.

• A shady area idea is azalea in the back, hosta in the middle, and dwarf mondo in the front.

Garden trends are seeing a resurgence of classical flower plants such as roses, hydrangeas and peonies.  With so many new innovations, using these as one of your layers will give a nostalgic feel to your landscape.

A great resource for ideas and plant materials is Monrovia.com.  Monrovia has been a leader in landscape plant material for over 90 years.  I am sure you will find their website a great resource.  The content in this email is a combination of information from Monrovia and our years of experience in the local landscape industry.

Dwarf Globe Blue Spruce used as a mid level shrub adds color and interest to a landscape.

Espaliering a plant, such as Pyracantha, on a wall or fence is a great way to create levels in small spaces.

A first level of bright seasonal color creates a welcoming environment to a front door.

Annuals, perennials, flowering shrubs and evergreens planted in levels to add interest.

Height variation in landscape plantings, incorporating a mix of shrubs with different heights, adds depth and dimensions to your landscape. 

Larger plants, particularly when you have the room, are great for adding interest and will soften the hard lines of walls and fences.  They also are a great way of creating a natural screen or a free-standing boarder. The more space you have the bigger you can go with the back level.

If your space is limited and you still want to gain height, a climbing vine or shrub against a wall or fence is a great solution.  Also consider using a flowering tree, boxwood, or pyracantha in an espaliered form.

Need a low maintenance landscape option with three levels?  Plant Pink Muhly Grass between groundcover and standard Juniper varieties. Little to no trimming will be required.

Large landscape containers are another way to create levels in the landscape.

It is also good to repeat a few shrubs or colors.  Even when your goal is an informal landscape, some repetition helps draw all plants together into one landscape planting.

Plantings should have something of interest in every season.  Consider one level planted in mostly evergreens, another in perennials, and another in annual color.   The higher the visibility, more perennials, seasonal color, or blooming plants are recommended.  Curb appeal increases as color increases. 

Always welcome guests with flowers.  A border of annual color along your front walk with a splash of more color near your front door creates a warm greeting.    

Annuals planted in front of perennials to create levels.

Inpatients, Caladiums and Hostas create layers in front of Azalea and Hydrangeas in shady areas.

Best time to plant:

Fall is the best time to plant most plants.  In the fall, plant materials benefit from cooler days while the soil temperatures are still warm enough root growth continues.  The result is a plant that has a stronger root system the following summer.   

Japanese Maple, hydrangea and ferns are a great way to create three levels in shade gardens.

Grasses make a great middle level when creating landscape plantings.

Summer planting:

But, what if you don’t want to just dream about landscapes, you want to plant now.  Is it ok to plant during the summer? 

Even though fall is the best time to plant new landscaping can be added year-round in central Oklahoma.  Avoiding extreme heat (or cold) and drought is best.  But, successful planting in the summer is possible with a little extra effort. 

Follow these tips when planting in the summer:

• Container-grown plants are best for summer planting because there is less transplant shock than with balled and burlaped or bare root plant material.

• Dig a whole that is twice as wide as the plant container and 25% deeper. 

• Mix organic compost with the soil you removed from the hole, place some of the mixture in the hole, firm up the soil in the bottom of the hole and place the plant with the top of the soil around the plant 1-2” higher than the surrounding soil. 

• Backfill 1/3 of the soil around the plant with the compost and soil mixture, lightly firm up and then fill the rest of the hole with water.

• After the water drains from the hole, backfill with your soil mixture forming a small saucer around the plant while being careful not to place any soil on top of the plant root ball.

• Fill the saucer with water and let it soak into the soil.

• Mulch around the plant with 2 to 3” of quality, natural mulch to help keep the soil moisture and temperature consistent.

• Deep water daily for the first two weeks when planting in the heat of the year.  Don’t let the soil around the plant get too dry for the rest of the summer.  But, at the same time, you don’t want to over water, so check soil moisture often.  The soil should be moist, but not so moist you can make a mud pie.

• For trees, the best practice is to use a tree gator around new trees planted during the summer.

• The goal is to keep the plant alive and healthy until the fall. Don’t expect much new growth until next spring.

Container-grown plants are best for summer planting because there is less transplant shock than with balled and burlaped or bare root plant material.

Mix organic compost with the soil you removed from the hole, place some of the mixture in the hole, firm up the soil in the bottom of the hole and place the plant with the top of the soil around the plant 1-2” higher than the surrounding soil. 

Place the shrub with the root ball 1-2” higher than the surrounding soil.

Fill the rest of the hole with water allowing time for the water to be absorbed into the soil before backfilling.

Finish the planting with 2-3” of quality, natural mulch.

Dig a whole that is twice as wide as the plant container and 25% deeper. 

Place some of the compost soil mixture in the hole and lightly stamp it down.

Backfill 1/3 of the soil around the plant with the compost and soil mixture, lightly firm up and then fill the rest of the hole with water.

Backfill the hole being careful not to add soil to the top of the plant’s root ball, lightly pack the soil, create a small saucer ring from the soil, and fill the saucer full of water.

What are your best landscape ideas? 

What are your favorite plants?

We would love to hear what is working well in your landscape.

Stay cool. 

Keep landscape dreaming. 

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

What’s bugging your landscape?

Wouldn’t it be nice if your landscape could tell you when something is bugging them?   

If they could, there would be a whole lot of chatter out in the landscapes right now.  

No two years are the same when it comes to battling insects and disease in the lawn and landscape.  But one thing is consistent, when your landscape is under stress it is more susceptible to insect and disease problems.

The dryness of the last 30 days along with the above normal temperatures have brought added stress to your turf and plants resulting in more insect and disease pressure.

Here are a few of the problems that we are either currently seeing in landscapes or we have on our watch list:    

The first generation of webworm started to show up in trees this week.  Inspect your trees this weekend. The best control is to cut the branch out when they are small.

The webworm caterpillar weaves a loose web around tree branches to protect themselves while they are destroying your tree’s leaves.

WEBWORM

• Timing – The first-generation spin webs in July and later generations create webs in September to October.

• Caterpillars weave a loose web around tree branches while they are munching on the leaves. 

• Favorite trees include hickory, mulberry, oak, pecan, popular, redbud, sweetgum, and willow.  But, you can find them on most ornamental shade trees when populations are heavy.

• Early generations won’t cause long lasting damage.  They are just unsightly.  The last generation can cause damage when the branch tries to rebud just before a killing frost.  When this occurs, you can expect the affected branch to die.

• The best control is to cut out any affected branches in the early generations when the webbing is small.  Completely dispose of the branch as the worms will exit the webbing and return to a tree.  If the web is too high or if the population has increased to the point that pruning is not possible, an insecticide application will be needed.  The spray must penetrate the webbing to gain control of the caterpillars.  Dormant oil applications are a good idea as worms overwinter in tree bark.

• Even though early populations do not cause damage, early control is important.  When left untreated typically later generations’ populations increase.

Webworm caterpillars loosely weave webbing around branches to protect them while stripping a branch of leaves. When spraying, you mush have enough pressure to penetrate the webbing to gain control.

Bagworms produce silk threads to move locations.

BAGWORMS

• Timing - Eggs hatch in May and they remain active through September.

• ½-2” long spindle shaped bag wrapped in the foliage of the host plant.  Young bagworms are very hard to spot.

• Favorite host plants are juniper, arborvitae, spruce, pine and cedar.  But, they can attach themselves to deciduous shrubs and trees and we are seeing a lot of bagworms on deciduous trees this year!

• Females lay eggs in bags left on plants over the winter.  One female bagworm will lay as many as 500 eggs. The eggs hatch in the late spring and tiny larva crawls out and start feeding.  As they feed, they use silk and plant materials to protect and camouflage themselves.  Bagworms can strip a plant of foliage.

• Heavy infestations, particularly on the same plant year after year, can completely defoliate a plant.  Defoliation of needle evergreens, such as junipers and cedars, usually results in plant death.  Broadleaf evergreens and deciduous plants typically are not killed but a weakened and more susceptible to other insect and disease problems.

• When there are only a few, control is best by hand picking.  If you have a large population an insecticide treatment should be made as soon as they are noticed.  Try to remove any bags left on plant material in the fall.  Bags left on the plant will serve as cocoons for females to lay more eggs. When removing bags, destroy them.  Do not pick and toss on the ground as the worm will crawl back to a plant.

Bagworms use the leaves of the host plant to protect themselves while they feed. This bagworm came off an elm tree, not a typical host plant for the caterpillar.

Bagworms can strip a mature Bald Cypress of its leaves quicker than you would expect.

Although not as common bagworms will feed on deciduous trees. If you notice skeletonized leaves, look close, most likely there are bagworms attacking the tree.

Young bagworms are small and can be hard to see. They wrap themselves in the plant needles making them hard to notice.

If you notice a juniper or cedar starting to loose color, inspect for bagworms.

Left untreated, large, heavy infestations of bagworms will kill mature trees and shrubs.

If there are not too many, the best way to control bagworms is to simply pull them off and throw them away. Don’t throw them on the ground, if you do they will crawl back onto the tree.

Aphids are small and often go unnoticed but the sticky substance they leave behind is easy to spot.

APHIDS

• Timing – Species start producing in April and increase rapidly as temperatures increase.

• A small, soft-bodied insect that is nearly invisible to the naked eye.  The honeydew, sticky substance they excrete is the easiest way to know aphids are active.  Colonies develop on the underside of the leaf and often are not noticed until the sticky substance starts to show.

• They feed on the leaves, stems and buds of a wide variety of plants throughout the growing season.  Usually, they attack the succulent new growth.

• Aphids generally do not cause serious harm to mature plants, although they can be harmful to young plants.  Heavy populations can cause wilt and yellowing of leaves as the sap is removed.  Blooming trees and shrubs will see a reduction in flowers.  Aphids can promote sooty mold, a fungal disease, and spread viruses. 

• Early detection is the key.  Aphids mature in 7-10 days and can produce 40-60 offspring resulting in population explosions in the thousands within a few weeks. 

• When populations are small, a high-pressure blast of water can be used to wash the insects off the leaves.   Wiping the leaves with a soapy solution is also effective with early detection.  In most cases, once you notice the honeydew, it is best to treat with an insecticide.  A dormant oil application in the winter is helpful in reducing populations the following season.  Lady bugs can be used as a beneficial insect control when populations are small.

Aphids feed on the underside of the leaf and become noticeable as the leaf becomes covered with the sticky substance they excrete.

SPIDER MITES

• Timing – They are active from early summer through fall. The hotter and dryer the weather, the more severe the problem will become.

• Very small (1/60 of an inch) that live on the underside of leaves and survive by sucking on the cell content of the leaves.  First shows up as stippling of light dots on the leaves.  Leaves then turn from bronze, to yellow, and then fall off. 

• They get their name from the small silk protective webs they create. 

• Because spider mite damage can look like many other plant problems, the best way to determine if it is spider mite is to shake the plant leaves over a white sheet of paper.  Spider mites will look like tiny moving black dots on the paper. 

• Spider mites reproduce rapidly when conditions are perfect.  Spider mites can hatch in as little as 3 days and become mature within 5 days.  One female can lay up to 20 eggs per day during their 2-4 week life span.

• The best control results from making two applications 7-10 days apart.

• Adequate plant moisture during the hottest time of the year helps prevent population explosions.

Early signs of spider mites.

To know if you have spider mites shake leaves over a white sheet of paper.

Spider mites will look like tiny moving black dots.

Silk protective webbing formed by the spider mite.

White scale attacks Crape Myrtles leaving a black sooty substance on the bark.

Crape Myrtle Scale

• Timing – Females lay eggs from May through September.  Crawlers emerge within a day or two and spread to new areas of the plant. 

• The scale is white to gray and exudes a pink blood-like liquid when crushed.  Initially, you will notice a black sooty mold on the twigs and trunks of crape myrtles. 

• Bark scale is difficult to control without the use of a systemic insecticide to kill the sucking pests. 

• Inspect new plants for scale before purchasing.

• Scrubbing the bark with a soft brush and mild solution of dishwashing soap and water will remove many of the females and eggs as well as remove the black sooty mold.

• A dormant oil application in the late winter to early spring is an effective way to reduce scale populations.   

SOFT OAK SCALE

• Timing – One generation per year.  Crawlers emerge in June, feeding and spreading on the branches. 

• They are convex in shape resembling a helmet, brown and ¼” in size.  Crawlers are small and pale in color.

• Scale feed on the fluids in the vascular system. 

• They produce honeydew which is a source for mold and attract ants and other insects.

• They rarely kill the tree but open up wood wounds that provide entry for other damaging pathogens. 

• When populations are allowed to increase, canopy damage may occur along with discoloration of the leaves.

• Application of an insecticide via spraying needs to occur in June when the crawlers are active.  Annual spray applications in June are required until the populations are under control.

• An alternative treatment is trunk injections of a systemic insecticide.  Trunk injections allow the insecticide to be readily distributed throughout the plant’s vascular system to the fluids the scales feed on.

Soft Scale are small brown convex shaped insects on oak tree branches.

ARMY WORMS

• Timing – Moths migrate from the Gulf Coast in June, lay eggs and the first-generation caterpillars start feeding in July.  With a 28-day life cycle there can be 4 or 5 generations between July and November.

• Army worms are always present in our summer lawns and landscapes.  When populations are normal you may never know they are there.  But, when conditions are right, as they were in 2021, we can see an explosion and experience turf damage.

• Early caterpillars are green and very small.  As they grow to 1 to 1 ½” they turn browner with reddish brown stripes on each side of the body and small back spots on the top.  Their distinctive mark is an inverted “Y” on the front of the head.

• Army worms will feed on any leafy, soft plant with plenty of moisture in the leaf.  In 2021 they feasted primarily on fescue lawns because growing conditions were perfect for fescue.  In previous outbreaks, army worms picked bermuda over fescue.   If army worms are high in populations this summer, you can expect them to choose bermuda over fescue because the early summer heat has kept fescue from flourishing.

• Watch for areas of the lawn that appear to have drought stress should not be. Test the area with a soap flush. Mix 1 teaspoon of dish soap with 1 gallon of water and pour over the surface.  If you have army worms, they will come to the surface. 

• Treatment with a systemic insecticide when the worms are small before they become heavy feeders is best. 

Can you count the number of army worms in this picture from August ‘21?  

If you have areas in your lawn that are turning brown you can test for army worms by drenching the area with soapy water. If there are army worms present they will immediately come to the surface.

Army worms are present every year but in numbers that don’t usually cause turf damage. August ‘21 army worm populations were high enough they devastated areas of lawns in just a couple of days. 

Healthy landscapes are a result of an Integrated Pest Management program. 

The first step of an IPM approach is maintaining healthy plant material with proper watering, feeding and pruning.  Insect activity increases on plant material that is already stressed.

The second step is simply monitoring your plants.  Weekly observation is critically important.   Does the overall plant color look healthy?  How do the leaves look? 

Our landscapes represent large investments in both time and money. They add curb appeal and provide enormous benefits to the environment.  It is important that we do all we can to keep them healthy and growing.

The best way you can protect your investment is to take a few minutes each week to inspect your lawn, shrubs, trees and flowers.

Complete control is much easier when insects are noticed early while populations are small.

Please let us know if you have any questions or concerns about your lawn and landscape.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

July Lawn & Landscape Tips

Wow, June, traditionally one of central Oklahoma’s wettest months really fell short! Many lawns and landscapes are showing heat and drought stress earlier than normal this year.  Now, we are headed into one of our hottest months and with more stress for your lawn and landscape on the horizon.  

How can you help your landscape not only survive, but thrive through July?  Let’s take a look:

Watering – The biggest determiner on your lawn and landscape thriving through the hottest and driest periods of the summer is practicing the best water techniques.  I know…we are repeating ourselves, but it is so important that we are going to keep saying it.

Best watering practices: 

• Water 1” to 1.5” per week. 

• Place the Hall|Stewart Rain Gauge in your lawn, give your lawn a good deep soaking and then check the gauge.  If you have ½” of water in the gauge you need to water 3 times per week.

• Water deep.  If you can get ¾-1” of water on your lawn without excessive runoff, water every 4 days.  Deep watering creates deep roots and a more drought tolerant lawn.

• Set your controller to water with back-to-back run times.  If a zone needs to run 30 minutes to get the correct amount of water, set it for 15 minutes and program two start times an hour or two apart.  Example:  4:00 AM & 5:00 AM.  This ‘Best Practice” will increase the amount of water that soaks into your lawn and reduce the amount of runoff.

• Water in the early morning.  Evaporation is at the lowest point in the pre-dawn hours and typically wind is at its lowest point.  Evening water promotes turf diseases, such as brown patch, and should be avoided.

• Daily watering does more harm than good.  Short daily watering results in shallow rooted turf and a lawn dependent on constant moisture to survive.

• Anytime we receive ½” of rain or more, don’t water for a few days.

• Aeration improves moisture absorption.

Watering Tip –

Most people don’t realize how long you need to run the sprinkler to get 1” to 1.5” moisture on your lawn in a week.  If your lawn and landscape are struggling, take time to place cans around the lawn to collect water.  Water your lawn as you normally do and then measure the amount of water in the containers. 

If you collected 1/3” to ½”, you are watering long enough for every other day watering. 

If you didn’t collect enough during a typical watering, increase the water time and continue watering every other day. 

The temptation is to start watering every day, but this creates a shallow rooted landscape that is more dependent on daily water. 

Deep watering every other day is the key to a lawn that will thrive in July.

We are a strong believer in the benefits of not catching your clippings when mowing as long as they are not noticeable. Heavy clippings always need to be cleared from the turf.

Mowing Tip -

One of the biggest differences between a good lawn and a great lawn in the heat of the year is not bagging the clippings.  Allowing finely mowed clippings to stay on the lawn returns moisture and nutrients to the soil.

This picture taken on Friday of a fescue lawn demonstrates that fescue is heat tolerant when best practices are followed:  deep watering every other day, mowing at 3” with no more than 1/3 cut off per time, and not bagging the clippings.

Mowing – For warm season turfs (Bermuda and zoysia) gradually raise the height of your mower.  Bermuda should be mowed between 1.5” to 2.5” during the summer heat.  Fescue, cool season turf, should be maintained at its maximum height, 3” to 3.5” now. The more leaf space you have the more drought resistant your lawn will be.  Mow often enough that you only remove 1/3” of the grass each time.  For healthy, irrigated, and fertilized Bermuda, if possible, mow every 4-5 days for the best lawn.  If you are mowing often enough and only removing 1/3 of the growth, don’t catch the clippings.  Grass leaves are mostly water and nitrogen and break down very quickly into the soil.  If your lawn has a brown cast to it after you mow, you are cutting below the leaves and into the stems.  Stems do not break down quickly and can lead to thatch build-up, so if this is the case, it is best to bag when mowing.

Mulch mowing is one of the most beneficial things you can do for your lawn. The key is mowing frequently enough that you are removing no more than 1/3 of the leaf blade.

The tropical type flowers of hardy hibiscus thrive in the heat of July.

Lantana and Coleus are heat loving annual summer color plants.

Limelight Hydrangea

Limelight Hydrangeas grace the July landscapes with large lime-white blooms.  

Brown Patch – One benefit of the dry air of July is less brown patch disease in fescue lawns.  Brown patch occurs when there is excessive moisture, high humidity, and/or high dew points when nighttime temperatures are in the 70s or more and daytime temperatures are in the 90s.  Brown patch is worse in areas with dense shade and/or low wind movement.  Anytime the leaf blades of your fescue stay wet for more than 6 hours at a time in the summer, brown patch is unavoidable.  

The temptation is to water fescue more frequently in the summer.  It is common for us to find fescue lawns with the irrigation set to run morning and night creating the perfect conditions for the disease to spread.  If you have heavy shade and/or low wind movement (most smaller backyards) water after sunrise and no more than every other day.  Resist the urge to water more.  Your fescue is not dying due to summer heat, it is struggling with brown patch.  

Black Eyed Susan is a favorite perennial during the month of July.

Sunpatiens do well through the summer heat in Full Sun to Part Shade.

Penta is another summer annual that enjoys Full Sun to Part Shade.

Brown Patch Disease will make you think your fescue lawn isn’t getting water, so you respond with more water, which makes the lawn look worse, so you water more…. This fescue lawn was extremely wet this week resulting in self-induced Brown Patch.

Fescue Tip –

The key to fescue surviving the summer is not watering more. 

The key is deep soaking every other day. 

Watering daily, or as some are known to do, watering twice per day, is one of the worse things for fescue in the summer heat. 

Keeping fescue wet will always promote Brown Patch disease.

Crape Myrtles respond to the heat of July with bold pinks, purples, whites, and reds.

Through the summer heat Caladiums and Inpatients will perform well in Full Shade to Part Sun.

Fertilizer – Because warm season grasses are actively growing, they need feeding during July.  The plan is to use fertilizer with a 3 to 1 to 1 of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K), plus iron (Fe) for added color.  Most of our soil has plenty of phosphorus and potassium, but nitrogen needs to be replaced.  July is a great month for turf development and a thick, healthy growing lawn is the best defense against weeds. Do not fertilize fescue lawns now.  As a cool season grass, fertilizer in the heat of the summer on fescue will cause damage.

Bermuda lawns look their best in the heat of the year when they are properly fertilized, mowed and watered.

Periwinkle is one of the best annual color plants during the hottest periods of the summer.

Weed Control – If you are on a regular lawn care application program, and if your first application was made prior to mid-March, you shouldn’t be experiencing many summer annual weeds.  A common weed this time of year is nut sedge.  Nut sedge thrives in tight, wet soils.  Areas with poor drainage and overwatered turf are frequent trouble spots.   If you didn’t get an early pre-emergent, you most likely have a good crop of crabgrass now. Controlling weeds in the heat of the year often can cause more damage to the turf than is beneficial.  It is important that label instructions are always followed when spraying weeds.  Don’t over apply.  What is most important in July is developing a thick, healthy turf.  If you are too aggressive on weeds now you will have weak spots that are more susceptible to weeds in the future. 

Nutsedge

Shrub Pruning – Selective pruning and light shearing should be practiced during the summer heat. If possible, wait to do major pruning during the hottest periods of the summer.  Avoid any pruning or shearing on spring blooming plants because you will be removing flower buds and reducing the show next spring. 

Early July is your last chance to trim spring blooming plants such as azalea without reducing next spring’s blooms.

Turf areas that receive less than 4 hours of direct sunlight is considered Full Shade. Fescue is the best turf choice in Full Shade to Partial Shade areas.

Aphids

Bagworms

Bag worm

Bagworms continue to be the biggest insect issue currently. Not only are they attacking needle evergreens, but also deciduous trees and shrubs. Inspect your plants frequently.  

Aphids thrive in the hot weather resulting in an increase in activity the past couple of weeks. They are easy to spot. Look for glossy, wet looking leaves.  The leaves will be sticky and the underside will be covered with insects.

If you see more than an occasional grub when digging in your landscape, we recommend treatment. An occasional grub is good for the environment, but as with most insects, too many and they will cause damage to your lawn.

Insect Watch – The first step to healthy plants is inspecting them regularly and then treating as needed.  If you attempt to treat on a schedule, you will find that you often will miss the target pest.  These are the insects that are currently most active:

Bagworms – Common on needle evergreens (juniper, cedar, cypress, etc.).  If a plant is already stressed due to heat or draught, bagworms can kill the plant.  Inspect often and treat as needed.  

Aphids – Small sap-sucking insects that leave plants with a honeydew, sticky substance on leaves. Aphids are easy to spot.  If the leaves appear unusually glossy stop and look under the leaf and you will find insects hard at work.  Aphids thrive in hot, dry conditions. 

Spider Mites - They also gather on the underside of leaves but are very small and hard to see.  The first sign you may have spider mites is a plant with weak looking, yellowish leaves.  Take a white sheet of paper, place it below the leaf and lightly shake the leaf.  If you see small specs of red, yellow, and brown on the paper and they start moving around, it isn’t dust and dirt you are seeing, it is spider mites.

Grub Worms – If you have experienced grub damage in the past, or if you have noticed a lot of June bugs around your landscape, July through August is a good window to apply an application for control.  Grub worms are the larva form of the June bug.  June bugs have laid their eggs, and they are hatching now. Grubs are easiest to control when the new grub is small and feeding close to the surface in July and August.

Army Worms – Three summers ago was the big army worm plague and it still has many lawn enthusiast shaken.  Army worms are always present in our summer lawns and landscapes. When populations are normal you may never know they are there.  But, with the right conditions we can see an explosion to turf damaging levels in a matter of days.  We are more likely to have turf damaging population levels when we have a cool, wet late June and early July.  Army worm eggs and worms have a higher survival rate when there is abundant moisture and cooler temperatures.  The weather pattern so far this summer is not conducive for an army worm outbreak.  We will keep an eye on conditions and let you know if army worms become a problem.

Spider Mite activity will make a healthy plant look weak with yellowing, speckled leaves.

Place a white sheet of paper under a branch and gently shake the branch. If you see small specs on the paper that are moving around, you are seeing spider mites.

Army Worms start out green and mature to a greenish-brown. They have distinctive strips on each side of their bodies and an inverted “Y” on their head.

Lantana loves Full Sun but also performs well in Part Sun.

Tree Leaves – Expect some leaf drop on deciduous trees in the summer heat.  Some leaf drop is normal as the tree naturally adjusts to less moisture and more heat.  The fun fact about most trees is they have a secondary set of buds.  If they are stressed, they naturally drop leaves to survive, and then re-bud as they recover.

July, more than any other month, requires you to keep your eye on how your lawn and landscape are doing. 

Inspect regularly for insect activity. 

Make sure your landscape is getting the correct amount of moisture. 

And, mow frequently for the best curb appeal.

We want your lawn and landscape to not only survive this summer, we want it to thrive!

If you have any lawn or landscape concerns, needs, or questions, please give us a call.

Lorne Hall

Hall|Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Summer Blooming Trees

Well, summer officially arrived on Thursday.  I don’t know about you, but it feels like it showed up a few days early and in full force!

Let’s celebrate the start of summer by doing one of my favorite things…talking about summer blooming plants.

But, before we jump in, let’s discuss the biggest problem we are seeing in lawns this week…WATER!

We are approaching 3 weeks without rainfall (yes, June is supposed to be our wettest month) with no chance of rain in the near future.  Unless you have started practicing your best watering techniques, your lawn and landscape are showing signs of stress. 

Back to Summer Blooming Trees…

Everyone is aware of Crape Myrtles. Crape Myrtles are our longest blooming tree. They start adding bright colors to our landscapes in June and keep the show going through September. But, there are so many more summer blooming trees.

Let’s take a quick look at few more summer blooming trees: 

Vitex – Covered with lilac-purple flowers in June and July.

Commonly known as Chaste Tree.  It is easy to overlook this summer bloomer because too often they look like overgrown shrubs.  But, when you see a 15-20’ tall, multi-truck, well maintained variety covered with 12-18” purple flowers and gray-green foliage, you will fall in love.  They do well as large shrubs but make an even better summer statement when their lower branches are kept clear of suckers.  They are very tolerant of our soils and weather.  Fertilizing in the spring and sufficient water in the early summer will produce the most dramatic summer show.  Best planted in full sun.

Vitex makes a bold summertime statement with its 12-18” purple flowers.  

The multi-trunks of a well maintained Vitex add a dramatic look to a landscape.

Vitex does well as a large shrub but looks even better as a small, multi-truck tree when their lower branches are free of sucker growth.

Goldenrain Tree adds brightness to the summer landscape with papery, lantern like flower pods.

The early summer bright yellows of the Goldenrain Trees are eye catching.

Goldenrain Tree – Never receives enough attention for its stunning yellow color.

As the tree matures, it develops an open branched, airy, oval shaped form with rich yellow flowers in June and July.  The flowers form a papery, lantern-like pod that gradually turns brown in late summer.  The tree handles drought and heat well.  It is tolerant of most soil types, but is a fast grower in moist, well-drained soils.  It is an excellent lawn specimen that grows to 30-40’ high and wide. 

Goldenrain Tree flowers gradually turn to a papery, pattern like seed pod in late summer adding another interest to the landscape.

Mimosa – Fern like foliage with pink pincushion style blooms.

My childhood home had one in the front lawn.  Unfortunately, most old varieties of Mimosa were susceptible to a wilt disease that results in gradual decline and eventual death.  Prolific seeders, it is common to see them growing in rural fence rows.  But, in recent years we have seen a resurgence of Mimosa with newer, disease resistant varieties.  With an umbrella shaped canopy and fern-like leaves, the tree adds a tropical look to the landscape. Fast growers that will reach 15-30’ depending on the variety.    For even more summer interest, check out the Summer Chocolate and Chocolate Fountain Mimosa varieties have bronze-green and purple foliage.

Mimosas have been adding pink pincushion style blooms to the summer landscape for generations.

Ombrella Mimosa is a newer, disease resistant variety with large, cherry-pink, powder-puff-shaped, fragrant flowers.

Chocolate Mimosa Trees leaves deepen to a rich chocolate-brown color during the summer with pink pincushion-like blooms.

Desert Willow have trumpet shaped blooms and are the most drought and heat resistant flowering tree.

Dessert Willow – Great addition to a waterwise landscape.

Willow type narrow leaves create an airy tropical, loose appearance with long blooming trumpet shaped blooms.  A smaller tree, 15-20’ tall that is loved by hummingbirds.  They need to be planted in full sun and prefer dry, well-drained soil.  Unlike traditional willow trees, they will not tolerate wet soils.  Dessert Willow is the most drought and heat resistant flowering tree. 

Smoke Tree – Tremendous visual appeal in May and June.

Often considered a large shrub, this small tree can reach 10-15’, producing smoke like airy plums in early summer.  There are several varieties available ranging from green, to yellow, to purple leaves.  Best planted in full sun.

Smoke Trees add smoke like airy plumes to the landscape in early summer.

Smoke Trees make an excellent landscape focus as a small tree.  

Royal Purple Smoke Tree has dramatic, pinkish purple, smoke-like clusters on reddish purple foliage.

There is a Smoke Tree variety with green leaves and lime green airy plumes.

Rose of Sharon – Adds an antique appearance to the landscape.

Often found as a large shrub at older residences, but many improved varieties are available.  With a strong multi-stemmed upright growth habit, they add interest to the landscape as a small tree, 8-10’ tall.  White is the most common bloom color but there are varieties in pinks, blues, and purple as well.  They grow well in full sun to partial shade.

Magnolias add a graceful feel to the summer landscape with their large white fragrant flowers.

Magnolia, an evergreen, has leaves that are large, shinny, and dark green on the top, but velvety, reddish-brown on the underside.

Dynamite

Ebony Flame

Natchez

Rose of Sharon is an old fashioned typically grown as a large shrub, but with their upright multi-stemmed growth habit they make a great small tree.

Magnolia – An evergreen summer blooming tree.

The traditional Magnolia, Southern Magnolia, is a large 50-80’ tall, 30-50’ wide evergreen that is too large for most city-sized landscapes.  But the Little Gem and Teddy Bear Magnolia are smaller, 20-25’ tall, 10-15’ wide, compact forms of the Southern Magnolia.  They grace the landscape with large shiny dark green leaves with a velvety, reddish-brown underside year-round and large 8” white saucer shaped blooms from early summer to fall.

Crape Myrtles most commonly are multi-truck small trees, but more recently we are seeing more and more grown as single-trimmed trees.

Crape Myrtle – Summer’s biggest show.

There are over 50 varieties of Crape Myrtles and new ones are introduced every year.  The color pallet ranges from white, pink, purple and red.  Bloom color is not the only attribute of a crape myrtle.  Their foliage ranges from dark green, wine colored, velvet and dark purple. The combination of the bloom and foliage colors is one of the things that attracts me to the plant.

With so many varieties of Crape Myrtles, there is sure to be one right for your landscape.  Here are a few of my favorites:

• Pink Velour – Large 12-15’ small tree form with dark wine foliage and bright pink flowers.  The foliage and flower combination are very striking.

• Dynamite – Also a small tree that grows up to 15’. Dynamite was one of the first red tree form varieties.  New foliage is nearly crimson in color and changes to a rich green as it matures.  Flowers are brilliant red.

• Natchez – One of the largest tree form crape myrtles reaching 25’.  The foliage is rich green, and the flowers are white. The cinnamon brown bark puts on a show of its own as it exfoliates.

• Ebony Flame – A great accent plant that grows 10-12’ with dark red blooms on intense black foliage.

Pink Velour

Dynamite Crape Myrtle

The bark of a large Crape Myrtle is one of the most overlooked aspects.  The bark is smooth and ranges in color from pink to gray.  As the plant matures, the thin bark exfoliates to expose a different color underneath.  Too often, tree form Crape Myrtles are severely pruned every spring and we never get to enjoy the beautiful bark of the mature plant. 

One of the nation’s leading innovators of Crape Myrtles is Oklahoma’s own, Dr. Carl Whitcomb.  Dr. Whitcomb holds 32 patents and has authored five books including Know It and Grow It, a book every landscape enthusiast should own.   You can see all of Dr. Whitcomb’s Crape Myrtles by following this link.

Some of the brightest colors you will see this summer will be from Crape Myrtles.

Mature Crape Myrtles grown as trees have the added interest of multicolored bark.

What is your favorite?

Did any of these inspire you to add a new summer blooming tree to your landscape?

Get outside.  Walk the neighborhood.  Visit one of our parks. 

I am confident you will discover a few of these trees adding color to the summer! 

Lorne Hall

Hall Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

3 Keys to a Great Lawn -- #3 Environmental Conditions

When it comes to having a great lawn, what is most important?

• Is it the lawn care applications?

• Is it mowing practices?

• Is it environmental conditions? 

All three are keys to a great lawn - Lawn Care Applications, Maintenance, and Environmental Conditions.  

Great lawns are not a result of getting one, or even two, of the three correct. Great lawns are equally the result of all three.

In April, we covered Lawn Care Applications.

 In May. we discussed Maintenance.  

Today we are covering the last key - Environmental Conditions.

Environmental Conditions are all the things that are outside of our control:

• Rainfall & Soil Moisture

• Air Temperatures & Soil Temperatures

• Sunshine & Wind

Oh, don’t you wish you could control environmental conditions!? 

Our role when it comes to environmental conditions is to monitor, supplement, and adjust our practices based on the conditions.  

---

A good source for monitoring all weather data is mesonet.org.

The Oklahoma Mesonet is a world-class network of environmental monitoring stations. The network was designed and implemented by scientists at the University of Oklahoma (OU) and at Oklahoma State University (OSU).

The Oklahoma Mesonet was commissioned on January 1, 1994 and consists of 120 automated stations covering Oklahoma. There is at least one Mesonet station in each of Oklahoma's 77 counties.

At each site, the environment is measured by a set of instruments located on or near a 10-meter-tall tower. The measurements are packaged into "observations" every 5 minutes, then the observations are transmitted to a central facility every 5 minutes, 24 hours per day year-round.

The Oklahoma Climatological Survey (OCS) at OU receives the observations, verifies the quality of the data and provides the data to Mesonet customers. It only takes 5 to 10 minutes from the time the measurements are acquired until they become available to the public.

---

How do environmental conditions impact our lawns and what we can do?

Rainfall & Soil Moisture 

The amount of rainfall in the last 7 days is an important starting point for watering decisions.  But, knowing the soil moisture is even more important. 

The best rainfalls are slow soakers vs downpours.  A slow soaker will increase soil moisture and provide your lawn’s root system with life sustaining moisture.  A downpour will help the lawn in the short term but has little benefit when it comes to increasing soil moisture.  It is important to not only know rainfall amounts but also to know the soil moisture.

Through the month of May, Oklahoma City enjoyed frequent rainfall in varying amounts around the metro. But, the tap has been shut off for the last 12 days.  Halfway through the month and June is not living up to its billing as our wettest month.

Based on this map, May’s soil moisture is fading quickly in our 90-degree temperatures.   

These two maps combined guide my watering decisions.  During the summer months, when the 7-day rainfall map reports less than 1” and soil index is less .7 or less, it is time to start watering.  Early this week I started regular watering, early in the morning, every other day for the first time this year. 

Fescue, when watered with deep soakings every other day, will stand up to 90+ temperatures.

Best Watering Practices -  

Deep soakings are always best.  Short, shallow watering is detrimental to your lawn and landscape in the heat.  The healthiest lawns are watered to the point of runoff and then allowed to dry for a day.  Daily watering, except for newly planted lawns, is not beneficial, even in 90+ degree heat.

Only water in the early morning.  This is typically the least windy time of day and always the time of the least evaporation. Avoid watering in the evening.  Wet grass, especially wet fescue, is prone to disease when it stays wet for more than 5 hours at a time and temperatures are in the 90s.

Lawns need 1” to 1.5” of water per week during the summer months to stay green and active.

How long should you water?  Every irrigation system is different – different head types, different size nozzles, different head spacing, different areas, etc.  The best way to know how long you should water is to place a few cans around your lawn in a random pattern.  Run your sprinklers through a cycle and measure the amount of water in the cans.  If the sprinklers ran for 15 minutes and you had .25” of water, you need 60 to 90 minutes per week.  Next determine how long you can run your irrigation before you there is excessive runoff.  This will tell you how many times per week you need to water.  If you can get away with watering every 4th day, you will have a healthier, stronger landscape. Unfortunately, with our tight soils, watering every other day on the required ODD/EVEN system during the hottest times is needed to get the correct amount of water on the lawn without excessive runoff. 

If you don’t have the time to audit the amount of water your system puts out, start with these settings, monitor, and adjust:  Fixed spray pattern heads with 10-15’ spacings – 15 mins per time.  Larger rotor type heads on 10-30’ spacings – 40 mins per time. 

After watering a normal cycle, the Hall | Stewart water gauge is showing just over 1/2” of moisture. In this situation watering 2-3 times per week will give your lawn the correct amount to remain healthy and green.

If you don’t have the time to audit the amount of water your system puts out, start with these settings, monitor, and adjust:  Fixed spray pattern heads with 10-15’ spacings – 15 mins per time.  Larger rotor type heads on 10-30’ spacings – 40 mins per time. 

Set your controller to water with back-to-back run times to reduce the amount of runoff.  Moist soil absorbs more water than dry soil.  Split the amount of time each zone runs in half and set your controller to come on twice on your water days.  Example:  Set controller to come on at 4:00 AM and 5:00 AM.  When the first cycle is complete, the controller will start the second cycle. 

I started the practice of setting irrigation controller to run back-to-back run times a few years ago, on slopes and gradually have incorporated the concept to all lawns. It really makes a difference in water efficiency.

Aeration improves moisture absorption.  You can’t beat aeration for improving your soil structure and a benefit of improved soil structure is better water absorption.  Lawns that are aerated every year (or at least every other year) do not experience as much runoff.

Watch for uneven water patterns.  If you notice areas where the lawn is fading, check your system for a broken head, clogged nozzle, or a head that is out of adjustment.

Even if you don’t have an irrigation system, the concepts of good watering apply.  There are several brands of inexpensive hose type timers that make it easy for you to control the timing and frequency.

Too much water can be a problem.  You can cause damage to your lawn and landscape quicker by overwatering than you will by underwatering.  Waterlogged soil reduces the amount of oxygen.  Roots need both moisture and oxygen to survive.  Many plants struggle when they do not have a chance to dry out between waterings, such as fescue.  Fescue’s biggest problem is brown patch.  Brown patch will develop when nighttime temperatures are in the 70’s and the leaf blades stay wet too long.  Don’t create your own microclimate that promotes disease by overwatering, watering too often, or watering at night. 

The Kansas State Turf and Landscape Blog (Link: https://blogs.k-state.edu/turf/) this week led with “Wet Spring Will Likely Lead To Quick Drought Response As Summer Approaches.”   Interesting… wet spring could lead to quick drought?  You would think a wet spring would lessen drought stress. 

K-State’s point is frequent rains through the spring reduced the need for grass to develop deeper roots.  As summer approaches, rainfall decreases, and heat increases the lack of deep root development this spring will result in quicker signs of drought stress on lawns. 

Oklahoma City experienced similar moisture patterns in May.  Now that we have gone 12 days without rainfall combined with several days of above normal temperatures, we are seeing lawns that are showing signs of drought stress much sooner than expected due to shallower root development. 

If you notice areas where your lawn is fading start with an irrigation check to make sure heads are functioning correctly.

Air Temperatures & Soil Temperatures

Air temperatures get all the attention.  But the driving factor for lawns is the soil temperature.  

Soil temperatures are a key factor in determining when weeds germinate, when lawns start to turn green, and when they are actively growing.

Soil temperature of 55 degrees in the spring is when most summer annual weeds begin to germinate.  For the best weed prevention each summer a pre-emergent herbicide must be applied before the soil temperature reaches 55 degrees for three consecutive days.  This year summer annual weed germination began the first week of March, earlier than normal.   

Soil temperature of 55 degrees is when fescue starts to absorb nutrients, regains a rich green color, and begins prolific growth.  Most years in central Oklahoma, March is the month to start fertilizing Fescue.   

Soil temperature of 65 degrees is when warm season grasses (bermuda and zoysia) become active.  Then once soil temperatures consistently reach 70 degrees bermuda grows its best.   In a typical spring, we expect bermuda lawns to green up gradually during April and be active growing by early May.  Inconsistent soil temperatures in April and May are the biggest reason for slow warm season turf growth.

Bermuda performs best when soil temperatures are consistently in the 70s.

Brown patch disease in fescue appears as irregular areas that lead you to believe the lawn may not be getting enough water.

Other environmental factors that will impact spring green-up:  Shady areas and turf on the north side of homes will come out of dormancy slower because the soil temperature will lag. Low moisture levels during the transition period will slow green-up.  Turf grass that must compete with weeds for nutrients and moisture will also be slower.  And, compacted soil will slow the process by restricting air, nutrient and water movement to the roots.

Soil temperature below 70 degrees in the fall is when winter annual weeds start to germinate.  This typically occurs in mid to late September.  For the best weed free lawn during winter dormancy, the first fall pre-emergent herbicide needs to be applied between mid-August and the end of September.

Once soil temperatures begin to cool in September it is important to apply little to no nitrogen fertilizer to warm season turf.  Pushing the turf to stay green deep into the fall is the most common cause for Bermuda problems such as spring dead spot. 

When soil temperatures begin to cool in September and into October it is the best time to establish fescue from seed.

Soil temperature is the critical measurement for pre-emergent herbicides, fertilizer applications and seeding.

Applications of high nitrogen fertilizer on bermuda lawns after mid-September increases the probability of having spring dead spot the following spring.

There is one important thing you can do to help when temperatures are high – adjust mowing height.  Mowing at the maximum mowing height for your turf type provides a canopy that cools the soil and promotes a deep root system. Maintain fescue at 3” to 3.5” and Bermuda at 2.5” during the summer heat.  If you mow frequently enough don’t bag your clippings.  A light sprinkling of grass clippings will act as mulch for the lawn helping to hold moisture in the soil.  The key is mowing often.  Leaving clumps of clippings on the lawn is not helpful.      

Sunshine & Wind

Turf grass moisture loss is much higher on windy, sunny days.  This is a fact we often overlook and fail to adjust for.

Evapotranspiration (ET) is the loss of moisture through evaporation from the soil and transpiration from the leaves.  Turf grass leaf blades are usually 75% water.  The highest ET rates occur on hot, sunny days with lower humidity and moderate winds.   This past week, high ET rates have started taking a toll on many lawns.

Another way sunshine and wind impact lawns are in areas of low air circulation and heavy shade.  Areas with thicker plant materials, privacy fences, and structures are more prone to diseases due to low air circulation.  Be aware of these areas and make sure you are not keeping these areas too moist.

The last of three things that impacts the quality of your lawn, environmental conditions, is something that you have no control over. 

But just because you have no control doesn’t give you an excuse. 

Your role, and our role, when it comes to the impact of environmental conditions on your lawn is to be aware, monitor and adjust our practices based on the conditions. 

Our goal, no matter the current conditions, is to help you have the best lawn possible.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Picture of the Week:  

Hardy Hibiscus

Hardy Hibiscus is a shrub sized perennial that produces bold, large, colorful blooms throughout the summer.  Blooms last only a day or two but are quickly replaced by new blooms.

Nutsedge – Possibly The World’s Worst Weed

Sorry…no pretty pictures to inspire you in the landscape this week. 

It’s time to discuss what is often the most challenging part of lawn care this time of year….Nutsedge Control!

And I know, I know, I have called many weeds “the world’s worst weed”, but If I am asked what are some of the weeds that give all lawn enthusiast the most difficulty, there is a 100% chance I am going to respond without hesitation: “NUTSEDGE!” 

Nutsedge is fast growing, has an upright growth habit and light green in color. Because it grows nearly twice as fast as your turf and is lighter, it ruins the best maintained lawns within a couple days of mowing.   

What does nutsedge look like?

Commonly called nutgrass because it looks like a grass, but it is a sedge with triangular ‘V’ shaped leaf blade arranged in groups of three at the base.

Nutsedge grows faster, has a more upright growth habit, is lighter in color and has a thicker, stiffer leaf blade than your turf grass.     

What are the best growing conditions for nutsedge?

Nutsedge thrives in moist, tight soils.  It is common to find it growing in areas of poor drainage, around irrigation leaks, and in lawns that are watered too frequently. 

Although nutgrass starts in overwatered lawns or areas of poor drainage, once it is established it thrives with normal irrigation, in dry lawns and even through a drought leading many to believe nutgrass has more to do with the soil structure than moisture. 

Nutsedge also prefers full sun and doesn’t grow well in shade and typically isn’t a problem in shady lawn areas.

Nutsedge first emerges in May and continues to thrive until the first frost.

Why is nutsedge so difficult to control?

Nutsedge is a perennial weed. Perennial weeds are always more difficult to control.  But nutsedge is one of the toughest, because it spreads by underground tubers.  Four to six weeks after the first blades emerge, typically in late June to early July, nutsedge begin forming new tubers (nutlets) and rhizomes (underground stems). 

The tubers grow 6-12” deep and are referred to as nuts - thus the common name of nutgrass.  Nutsedge spreads by growing rhizomes which produces more nuts.  Weeds that propagate through tubers and rhizomes are very difficult to control because unless you get control of the rhizome and tuber, the plant will sprout new growth within a few days.  Also, tubers can remain dormant in soil for three seasons.

Be proactive.  With the first sign of nutsedge, take action. Nutsedge is much harder to control once it has been allowed to spread and mature. 

Weed killers labeled for use on nutsedge will be either a contact killer or a systemic.  A contact herbicide will kill only the leaves and the tubers and rhizomes will remain active if you make only a single application. Systemic products will translocate through the plant to the tubers and rhizomes. 

Remember, single applications of most herbicides labeled for nutsedge will kill the plant leaves but leave the nut unaffected.

Because it is not a grassy or broadleaf weed, common herbicides will have little to no control.  For nutsedge control you must search out products specifically labeled for nutsedge.

In late June to early July, uncontrolled areas of nutsedge will begin to multiply and take over areas.

A few herbicides available at most garden centers labeled for nutgrass include:

• Basagran – A second application must be made 7-10 days after the first application.

• Image Nutsedge Killer – Requires a second application 3-4 weeks later.

• Sedge Hammer Plus – Must have a surfactant mixed with the herbicide to be effective and a second application will need to be made in 6 weeks.

• Ortho Nutsedge Killer and Gordon’s Trimec Nutsedge Plus – Both require follow up treatments every 4 weeks.

Please read the label and follow it.  You will need to know your turf type.  Read the label to make sure you can use the product on your lawn.

Is pulling nutsedge a good idea?

Pulling nutsedge is only recommended when the plant is very small before nuts start to develop on the rhizomes (May through June).  Once nuts start to develop, you must remove the nut when pulling the weed, which is typically 6-12” below the surface. 

If you pull the weed and leave the nut behind, new plants will emerge very quickly.   If pulling, the best method is to dig at least 12” deep and 12” wide to get all the tubers.

Research suggests that anytime the tuber is stressed, by either pulling the top off or by killing the top without killing the tuber itself (the result of a single application of an herbicide), the tuber multiples.  Therefore, many people experience more nutsedge after they have pulled or sprayed.

Cultivating nutgrass, such as in landscape beds, is ineffective.  All you are doing is redistributing the tubers and rhizomes.

What else can I do to be proactive in preventing nutsedge?

• Aeration is a great way to reduce the chances of nutsedge starting and spreading.  Aeration reduces soil compaction and reduces the best growing conditions for nutsedge. 

Our experience is lawns which are aerated annually rarely have significant nutsedge problems.

• Water only based on need and infrequently.  Overwatering, keeping your lawn too wet, promotes the best growing conditions for nutsedge. Water deep.  Allow the soil surface to become dry between waterings.

• Correct water leaks in your sprinkler system promptly.  Nutsedge will stake a claim to any areas that become waterlogged.  

• Along the same line of thinking, correct poor drainage areas.  Often patches of nutsedge are an indicator of poor drainage. 

If you find yourself struggling with nutsedge, give Hall | Stewart a call, (405) 367-3873. 

Hall|Stewart’s 7-Step Lawn Care Program includes nutsedge control.  One of the benefits of subscribing to our full program is we do not charge extra for nutsedge control.  And, because we know the presence of nutsedge can quickly tarnish a great looking lawn, we use the most advanced nutsedge control herbicides available to the industry.

Nutsedge is one of the more aggressive and persistent weeds you will encounter.  Control of nutsedge can be a long process.  It is a marathon, not a sprint.

Success involves both the best cultural practices (aerating, watering, and mowing) and timely use of quality herbicides labeled for the control of nutsedge.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

June Lawn & Landscape Tips

Hello Summer!

June… what a great month for your lawn and landscape!

June is the month when both cool season and warm season turf look great.  

June is the month when an abundance of perennials add color to the landscape. 

June is the month when shrubs are covered with soft, tender new foliage and so many blooming shrubs are adding splashes of color.

June is the month summer blooming trees start adding color to our world.

June is the month I discover another favorite tree, shrub, perennial or summer annual color every year.  What will be my favorite this June? 

June is the month that I know there is a good chance around every corner I’m going to stumble upon another fantastic lawn and landscape.

Awe…June is the month when all your lawn and landscape work this spring rewards you with enjoyable evenings on the patio.

Wait…don’t get too comfortable, it is summer and your lawn and landscape needs attention:

June is the month for day lilies to add splashes of color to the landscape.

Mowing – Good mowing practices will have the biggest impact on the quality of your lawn over the summer months.  For the best summer turf, get into a routine of mowing often enough that you only remove 1/3 of the leaf blade with each mowing.  For Bermuda and zoysia, both warm season turf grasses, this may require mowing every 4 to 5 days.  If you mow this often, don’t bag your clippings.  The top 1/3 of the grass leaf is 90% moisture and nutrients.  The best summer height for warm season turf is 1.5 – 2.5”.  Fescue, cool season turf grass, will continue to grow rapidly during early June, but once we consistently have temperatures in the upper 90s it will begin to slow down.  The best height for cool season turf in the summer is 3.0 – 3.5”.  Both warm season and cool season turfs, don’t respond well to being cut below their recommended height. Cutting the lawn too short discourages root development and having deep roots going into the summer heat is important for both warm and cool season turf.

Fertilizer – Bermuda lawns should be fertilized this month with a higher nitrogen, slow-release fertilizer.  The goal in June is to create a healthy Bermuda lawn that will thrive in the summer heat.  Fescue lawns should only receive low nitrogen, root stimulating fertilizer during June to prepare them for the summer heat.

One of the biggest concerns we have for fescue lawns right now is too many are being cut too short.  Cool season lawns will do better in the summer heat with more leaf space.  If you have a fescue lawn, gradually raise your mower to at least 3” this month.  I started mowing my fescue lawn a ½ notch higher in May and will increase it another ½ notch this week.

Weed Control – If you subscribe to Hall | Stewart’s Lawn Care Programs and have not skipped any applications this year, your lawn has had two pre-emergent applications.  This will provide your lawn with a good barrier to prevent summer annual grassy weeds.  But, if not, you may have some grassy weeds, most common is crabgrass, showing up in your lawn.  June is a good month to control grassy weeds while they are still young plants.  Once they mature, stronger products will need to be used which can cause turf damage.  If nutsedge is making an appearance in your lawn it is best not to pull it.  When you pull nutsedge and do not remove the nut below the surface, the plant becomes stressed and multiplies. 

You can expect to see Black Eyed Susans, a perennial brighten the landscape this month.

Crabgrass is a very fast growing summer annual grassy weed. If you did not get a pre-emergent on your lawn early this year, you are almost certain to have crabgrass growing in your lawn. Treat now with a grassy weed control herbicide. If you wait until July to control, harsh products that will damaged desirable turf will have to be used.

Tree & Shrub Care – The best thing you can do for your trees and shrubs this month is give them your attention.  Make it a routine to walk around the landscape looking for plants that just don’t look their best.  Most insects are great at camouflage and are hard to spot before you have damaged leaves.  Start watching for spider mites.  If you notice pale and specked foliage, shake the leaves over a white sheet of paper.  If you see tiny specks that start to move, you have spider mites and should schedule a treatment.  Be on the watch for bagworms on needle evergreens.  When they are young, they are hard to spot.  If you notice your evergreens losing color, there is a good chance bagworms are the problem.  With all insect and disease issues we subscribe to an integrated pest management approach.  With our Tree & Shrub Program, we inspect for issues with each visit.  Most problems are easier to control the earlier you notice them.  If you notice any issues with your plants, please let us know.

If you notice pale or speckled foliage on boxwood shrubs, shake a branch over a white paper. If you see tiny specks that start to move, you need to spray for spider mites.

As temperatures warm up in June be on the lookout for aphids.

Soft scale can be a problem on Redbud trees. A small 1/16-1/8”, reddish, oval scale that is often found on small twigs and can cause small branches to die if not treated. A treatment plan in late winter with a dormant oil with follow-up treatments in late spring and early summer with a horticultural oil is required.

The lacy blooms of June are a wonderful contrast to the big leaves of the Oak Leak Hydrangea.

A benefit on not having a late cold spell this spring…Crape Myrtles are already starting to bloom.

I’m always on the look out for new landscape plant materials. This year we have planted a few Orange Rocket Barberry. Typically Barberries have an oval or spreading growth pattern. But the Orange Rocket is known for its upright, compact growth habit.

Bag worms start out small and hard to see. Take time to inspect your needle evergreen shrubs this month.

Bagworms start out very small and are hard to see. Take time to inspect your needle evergreens before they cause damage.

Annual Color — Sunpatien and Joseph’s Coat

Endless Summer Hydrangeas will make their first big burst of color this month.

Shasta Daisies, a perennial, will bloom from early June through mid-summer. They make great cut flowers.

Who cant help but fall in love with Oakleaf Hydrangeas at this time of year. Their brilliant large flowers demand attention.

Later this month Mimosa trees will add bright pink, feathery flowers to the landscape.  

Shrub Pruning – June is the last month to prune spring blooming shrubs.  Spring blooming shrubs start setting flower buds by mid-summer.  A few examples of spring blooming shrubs: forsythia, quince, bridal wreath spirea, and azalea.  If the shrub is overgrown, use thinning cuts to reduce the size and increase air flow into the center of the plant.  Make thinning cuts by removing branches back to the main trunk or another branch.  If the shrub only needs a little shaping, make heading cuts near the end of branches.  But, remember that all shrubs will perform at their best if they are allowed to grow without heavy pruning or shearing.   

Planted in mass Stella D’oro Daylily’s add bright splashes of yellow to the landscape during June.

If your Azaleas have become overgrown or need shaping, June is your last chance to prune them before they start setting buds for next spring.

Watering – “How much to water” may be one of the most misunderstood aspects of managing a lawn and landscape.  Develop the practice of watering based only on need.  During the summer months, anytime we get a ½” rain or more, turn your system off for a few days.  Depending on afternoon temperatures, a 1” rainfall may save you a week’s worth of water.  The converse is true as well.  If we go a week without receiving a 1” of rainfall, you need to be watering.  Another clue it is time to start watering… when you walk on the lawn, if the grass doesn’t spring back up and your footsteps remain in the lawn, it is time to start watering.  Remember, deep soakings are always better than short, frequent watering.  Shallow, frequent watering results in lawns with less roots and more dependent on water.  Throughout the summer make it a habit to inspect your landscape and adjust.  Don’t set your irrigation controller at the beginning of the season, never touching it again until the fall.

My watering goal for June is a good deep soaking every 4 days.  If temperatures stay under 90 degrees and we get occasional rain, I’ll save money and water, and still have a great lawn and landscape.  The key to this plan is taking a little time to monitor and adjust.

Trumpet Vine

Mulch – Add mulch to your landscape plantings this month.  A 2” layer of mulch will retain moisture, cool the soil, and reduce weed germination.  We prefer premium shredded all bark cedar mulch because it doesn’t float as much and aesthetically looks great.  For acid-loving plants such as hydrangeas and azaleas, pecan hulls or pine bark mulch is a great choice.   

Endless Summer Hydrangea

Goldflame Spirea

Annual color planting of Joseph Coat, Sunpatien, and Marigold make a great yellow/orange color scheme.

Brown Patch – Be on the lookout for brown patch in your fescue lawn. June is the most active month for this disease in fescue lawns.  Anytime nighttime temperatures are 70 degrees plus and the turf remains damp for over 6 hours at a time, brown patch will develop. Areas where there is little air movement and/or heavy shade are more prone because the turf stays wet longer.  Brown patch will make the lawn appear it needs more water, but watering will just make it worse.  So, before you water more, think about the site, the amount of shade, the air movement in the area, and the amount of moisture the area has received.  The best thing you can do if this problem occurs is to stop watering.

One of the most self-inflicted problems with fescue lawns is watering practices that promote the development of brown patch.  Always allow your fescue time to dry out between waterings.  Avoid watering fescue in the evening during the summer.

If you subscribe to Hall | Stewart’s 7-Step Lawn Care Program and have fescue, you will receive a fungicide this month designed to suppress the brown patch fungus.

Brown Patch will make fescue look like it needs more water, but the problem is actually the result of the leaf blades staying wet for over 6 hours at a time when nighttime temperatures are in the 70s.

Yarrow is a perennial that produces yellow flowers in late May and early June.

Also, Cone Flower, another summer perennial will make a showing in June.

There are many varieties of Spirea’s with yellow and green foliage that put on blooms in the early summer.

Anthony Waterer Spirea is a medium sized shrub that is covered with pink flowers in late May and early June.

Aeration – Mechanical aeration is a “best” practice for any lawn.  Aeration reduces soil compaction, promotes root development, and thickens the turf.  May and June are the best months to aerate Bermuda.  This one practice will make a significant difference in the quality of your turf.  The stronger the turf, the less weed problems you will experience.

Insects – Regularly scheduled treatments for fleas & ticks, mosquitos, and perimeter insect control around your house should continue during the summer.  The goal is to make outdoor living for your family and pets the best possible.

Southern Magnolia trees produce large white flowers in early summer. Teddy Bear and Little Gem Dwarf Southern Magnolia are great plants for smaller landscapes.

Texas Red Yucca produce tall red flowering spikes this month. There are several varieties. Brakelights Res Yucca is a favorite.

Awe…June…Spend time outside, in your lawn and landscape, enjoying the beauty every day!

If you have any questions, please send us an email or call.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Hydrangeas... a game changer!

Hydrangeas get a bad rap.  They have a reputation for being difficult to grow, fussy and high maintenance.  That was true of old fashion, traditional hydrangeas that only bloom on last year’s growth.  It was common for a late spring freeze to damage buds resulting in little or no blooms, or a pruning mistake also resulting in no blooms.

But, the world of hydrangeas keeps changing…every season the hydrangea options get better and better.  New varieties just keep coming.  Take a stroll through a local nursery and you will be surprised at all the hydrangea options.

With the biggest determiner of how well hydrangeas perform being late cold spells, the absence of a late cold snap this year has the Oklahoma City area set-up for a great hydrangea show.

The introduction of the Endless Summer Hydrangea in 2004 from Bailey Nurseries with the help of Dr. Michael Dirr from the University of Georgia resulted in what many claim is the best-selling shrub of all time.

The Original Endless Summer Hydrangea

Little Lime Hydrangeas is a shorter option for smaller gardens.

Dirr had been trying to develop a reblooming hydrangea for years with no success.  Then in 1998, Dirr was visiting Bailey’s test field where he found hydrangeas in full bloom…in September! Bailey Nurseries had been propagating and testing a plant they had found in St Paul, MN for 10 years with success. The plant was unique because it bloomed in the spring on last year’s growth, like a traditional old-fashioned hydrangea, and rebloomed on the new growth during the summer and into the fall. 

Dirr immediately knew it was “a game changer” for hydrangeas and quickly coined the name ‘Endless Summer’.

Endless Summer varieties:

Endless Summer Hydrangea will continue to bloom into the fall.

The Original — big round blue or pink blooms

Blushing Bride - pure white blooms that mature to a pink blush.

Twist-n-Shout — reblooming lace-cap in pink or periwinkle blue with red stems.

Bloom Struck — purple or rose-pink flowers with red stems.

Summer Crush — a 2019 introduction with raspberry red or neon purple flowers with a compact growth.

Summer Crush Endless Summer Hydrangea

Summer Crush Endless Summer Hydrangea

Pop Star – Introduced in 2023, Pop Star is a compact, big-leaf hydrangea that only grows 18-26” high and wide.  It is the quickest Endless Summer to rebloom.

The Endless Summer Hydrangea is like traditional hydrangeas in that they prefer morning sun and afternoon shade. 

Want to learn more about Endless Sumer Hydrangeas?  Follow this link:  https://endlesssummerhydrangeas.com/

Another hydrangea “game changer” is Limelight.  Limelight is a summer blooming hydrangea that grows in full sun!

A plant breeder in the Netherlands crossed two unidentified panicle hydrangeas and the outcome was a full sun, summer blooming show in the hydrangea family.  Limelight Hydrangeas received a US Plant Patent in 2002.

I first noticed them a few years ago growing around a parking lot in downtown Oklahoma City in the middle of summer with vibrant white blooms planted in full sun.  Of course, I circled the block, took lots of pictures, and started my search to find the name of the plant. 

Limelight has become one of my favorite plants.  

Limelight varieties:

Limelight (Original) – Blooms in mid to late summer on new growth.   Flowers start green, turn to white and then back to green.  Limelight is typically large 6-8’ tall multi-trunked shrubs or can be trained into a single-trunked tree formed large shrub. 

Limelight Prime – All the characteristics of the original but a little smaller, 4-6’, and sturdier stems.  Also, the flower color is more vivid than the original.

Little Lime – Great for smaller gardens and small pockets in the garden.  Grows to 3-5’ tall.

Want to learn more about Limelight Hydrangea varieties?  Follow this link to a Monrovia article:  https://www.monrovia.com/be-inspired/best-panicle-hydrangea-varieties.html

Limelight Hydrangeas make a big statement grown as a single-trunked small tree.

Bobo Hydrangeas are another dwarf variety of Limelight Hydrangeas. They grow in full sun to partial shade and produce large white blooms that turn pink. A characteristic of Bobo Hydrangeas is the strength of their stems. Unlike some panicle hydrangeas the blooms don’t weigh down the stems and flop over.

Limelight Hydrangea blooms gradually go from white to lime as they mature.

Limelight – Blooms in mid to late summer on new growth.   Flowers start green, turn to white and then back to green.  My favorite thing about Limelight is that it grows in full sun.  A hydrangea game-changer:  Summer blooming hydrangea in full sun!  Limelights are typically large 6-8’ tall multi-trunked shrubs or can be trained into a single-trunked tree formed large shrub.  For smaller areas, try the Little Lime or BoBo Hydrangeas which grow to 3’.

Think you have to have a shady landscape to enjoy hydrangeas?  Not the case with the Limelight Hydrangea. It grows in full sun with large lime to white blooms in mid-summer.

A late spring to early summer blooming hydrangea is the Oakleaf Hydrangea.  The Oakleaf is one of only two hydrangea species native to the US in the SE from North Carolina, south to Florida and west to Louisiana. 

Oakleaf Hydrangeas are named for the deeply lobed oak-like foliage.  They grow 4-8’ tall and wide with a rounded habit.  The white cone shaped flower clusters fade to pink in the summer and leaves turn deep red hues in the fall.

The Oakleaf prefers morning sun and evening shade.  Too much shade and they become leggy, have fewer blooms and poor fall color. 

Oakleaf – Instead of traditional mophead blooms, oakleaf hydrangeas have white clusters of cone shaped flowers.  It is named for the large oak-like leaves that turn reddish-purple in the fall.  It is a large shrub that blooms in the summer on new growth.  It also requires less water than a traditional hydrangea.

Oakleaf Hydrangea

Oakleaf Hydrangeas is a large shrub that can reach 5-6’ with long, cone-shaped white flowers with large oak-like leavers that turn bright red in the fall.

Oakleaf Hydrangea in the Dallas Arboretum.

Oakleaf Hydrangea leaves in the fall turn vivid shades of red and purple.

Oakleaf Hydrangea with Endless Summer in the background.

Other favorite hydrangea varieties:

Annabelle – A smooth hydrangea with white blooms on the new growth. Because it is fast growing, it is common for this hydrangea to be cut all the way to the ground each spring.

Phantom – Similar to Limelight but with color changing blooms that start in mid-summer as greenish white then gradually change to a blushing pink as summer transitions into fall.  Phantom also grows in full sun.

Seaside Serenade Series by Monrovia – A more compact form of hydrangea ideal for smaller areas that blooms on both last year’s growth and new growth.

Pruning Hydrangeas

Most gardeners feel uncertain and confused about when and how much to prune hydrangeas.  The truth is most hydrangeas do not need to be pruned at all.  Occasionally you may need to prune for shape or size, or remove some dead wood, but most seasons pruning can be skipped. 

It is common to have some branch die back after the winter in our area.  A common mistake is to get in a hurry when pruning back the winter damage. Be patient, don’t get in a hurry to remove dead branches.  Wait until late April or even early May before pruning off the dead branches.  Pruning earlier, or pruning to the ground in the spring, could reduce or eliminate blooming this season.  When it is time to prune back the dead ends, make your cuts at an angle just above the highest green bud. 

When more pruning is required, it is important to know the type of hydrangea you have to know the right time to prune. 

Bigleaf, Mophead, French Hydreanes.   They bloom once per season in the early summer on old wood, meaning their buds are formed on last year’s growth.  Pruning should be done during the summer.  If they have become overgrown, remove up to ½ of the total stems by cutting them all the way to the ground.  The plant will produce strong new stems that will flower next season.  Nikko Blue is an example of this type of hydrangea.

Smooth Hydrangeas.  They bloom on new wood, meaning buds are formed on new growth in the current season.  Pruning should be done in late winter to early spring.  Older smooth hydrangea varieties can become floppy and unruly.  Don’t be afraid to prune this variety aggressively.  Annabelle is an example of a smooth hydrangea.

Panicle Hydrangeas.   They also bloom on new wood.  Panicle hydrangeas rarely need to be pruned.  But, if they were overgrown last season, prune up to 1/3 of the plant before they leaf out to create a more compact, rounded shape.  Limelight is a panicle hydrangea.

Oakleaf Hydrangeas.  Oakleafs like to be left alone.  Pruning should be limited to removal of dead or broken branches.  They bloom on old wood, so if there is a need to prune to improve the shape of the plant, pruning should be done in the summer after it finishes flowering.

Reblooming Hydrangeas.  Hydrangeas that bloom on both old and new wood.  Early in the season they bloom on the old wood from last season.  During the current season they bloom on current season growth.  All they really need is deadheading of spent flowers and removal of dead stems.   The Endless Summer and Seaside Serenade series are examples of reblooming hydrangeas.

Reblooming hydrangeas last June at the Dallas Arboretum.

Wait until late April to early May to prune the dead from your Endless Summer Hydrangeas.

Oakleaf Hydrangeas rarely have winter die back and are best left alone.

Leaving faded blooms on hydrangea will add interest changing color as they fade.

Deadheading Hydrangeas 

Deadheading is the practice of removing spent blooms.  You can deadhead hydrangeas, but you don’t have to.  Deadheading can increase blooms but is mostly done to keep the plant looking neat.  Some gardeners like to leave spent flowers on the plant for seasonal interest as they will change color as they fade.  If you do deadhead, prune right above the first set of leaves below the spent flower.  Cutting lower will remove emerging buds.

If you don’t deadhead your Endless Summer Hydrangeas the spent flowers will add color to your landscape in the fall. This is the Endless Summer Hydrangea in front of the Hall | Stewart office last October.

Planting Hydrangeas

Hydrangeas prefer rich, well drained soil in a location with morning sun and dappled to full shade in the afternoon and evening.  The exception is the Limelight Hydrangea which can be planted in full sun. When planting in our tighter clay soil, start with a hole twice as big as the plant container.  Incorporate compost and peat moss into the existing soil, fill the bottom of the hole with enough soil that the root ball will be slightly above the existing grade.  Backfill around the root ball with the remaining mix of soil and amendments creating a ring outside the root ball creating area to retain moisture when watering. 

Hydrangea Watering

Hydrangeas require more water in the heat of the summer. They perform best in soil that retains some moisture but does not stay wet.  It is common for their leaves to wilt slightly on 90+ degree days and then rebound quickly when watered.  A good deep soaking every other day in the summer is enough.  A 2” layer of mulch will help retain moisture.    

Endless Summer Hydrangeas are usually pink in our soils because of the pH being over 6.  Sulfur can be used to lower the pH and turn the blooms blue.

Changing Hydrangea Flower Color

Excluding white hydrangeas and many of the new reblooming hydrangeas, soil is the greatest determinate to whether the flower blooms will be blue or pink.  Soil with a pH below 6.0 (acidic) will have blue blooms.  pH above 6.0 (alkaline) will produce pink flowers.  Adding lime to the soil will change blue blooms to pink and adding sulfur will change pink blooms to blue.  Endless Summer has a formulated product called Color Me Pink which adds lime to the soil to produce pink blooms and Color Me Blue which adds sulfur to encourage blue blooms.  Similar products are available from Bonide. 

Bonus Info: “Why aren’t my Endless Summer Hydrangeas blooming?”

1.      Pruning – The most common blooming problem is a result of over pruning and pruning at the wrong time.  Remember, it is best to not prune them at all.  Really the only pruning recommended is at the beginning of the season to remove the brown stems left from the winter. Wait until late April or even early May to prune and then only prune back to the first bud.  During the summer, if you want to you can snip off spent blooms, but it is not required.  Otherwise, keep the pruners and shears away from your hydrangeas.  And…never prune in the fall.

2.     Fertilizer – Hydrangeas needing fertilizer or having been fertilized incorrectly will always disappoint. As mentioned above, they need slow-release high phosphorus fertilizer.  If you are using a high nitrogen, low phosphorus fertilizer, you will have lots of pretty leaves and no blooms. Just remember – use a fertilizer with a low first number and a high second number.

3.     Water – The right amount of water will make a difference.  You don’t want the plant to be too wet or too dry.  It is ok if they droop in the afternoon heat, but if they are still droopy in the morning, they need a good watering. 

4.     Sunshine – Hydrangeas bloom best planted in morning sun with dappled afternoon shade. When planted in a hot location such as on the south or west sides of a structure, they need to be protected from the scorching afternoon sun. The bottom line is you don’t want them to fry, and you don’t what them to go without some sun.   

5.     Soil Problems – What you plant your hydrangeas in will impact the results.  Hydrangeas require well drained soil with a good amount of organic material.  In our native soils, it is best to adjust the soil when planting with ample amounts of pine bark, peat moss, and/or pecan hulls.

This Endless Summer Hydrangea was added to the landscape last spring and the homeowner was rewarded with extra large blooms this June.

I believe that there is a hydrangea just right for nearly every landscape.  

Yes, they require a little more work when planting, and a little more attention to water, but otherwise they are not near as fussy as you would think.

Survey your landscape. 

Pick a spot. 

Take a trip to a landscape nursery.

Select the perfect hydrangea for your landscape. 

It’s worth a try! 

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

3 Keys to a Great Lawn - #2 Maintenance

When it comes to having a great lawn, what is most important? 

• Lawn care applications? 

• Maintenance practices? 

• Environmental conditions?

All three are keys to a great lawn - Lawn Care Applications, Maintenance, and Environmental Conditions.   

Great lawns are not a result of getting one, or even two, of the three correct.

Great lawns are equally the result of all three. 

Today, we are covering the second - Maintenance. In April, we covered Lawn Care Applications and in June we will visit about how Environmental Conditions impact your lawn.

Maintenance includes all mechanical activities involved in caring for your lawn:  Mowing, Aerating, Dethatching, Turf Selection, Soil Test, etc.

Mowing

• Mowing by far has the biggest impact on the quality of your lawn.

Think about it. More time will be spent mowing your lawn than any other lawn or landscape activity. If your goal is to have a great lawn, you will make somewhere between 28 to 40 trips across your lawn this year.  A well-maintained warm season turf (bermuda, zoysia) will be mowed 28 to 32 times per growing season while a great fescue lawn will be mowed 36 to 40 times.

• Cutting height is important.

  Cutting too low discourages root growth and reduces the lawn’s ability to withstand extreme temperatures and drought.

  Cutting too tall results in a stemy turf that is more susceptible to scalping.

  Bermuda and zoysia should be mowed at 1-2” March through May. As temperatures start to increase in June, gradually increase the mowing height to 2-2.5” by mid to late summer and maintain that height through the end of the growing season. If mowing bermuda with a reel type mower, the lawn can be maintained at 1.5” during the summer months.

Maintain fescue at 3” during the summer months.

Cutting the lawn shorter in the spring and early summer promotes lateral spread and a tighter turf.

A taller turf in the heat of the year provides a canopy that cools the soil, promotes a deep root system, and provides insulation for low temperatures going into the winter.

Fescue should be mowed at 2.5-3” in the spring March through May. During the heat of the summer, June through September, maintain fescue at 3-3.5”. In the fall, as the weather cools returning to 2.5-3” is fine.

A good rule of thumb is to maintain all turf grown in shade at the recommended highest levels or a little taller. This will increase leaf area to compensate for the lower light levels.

Maintain turf growing in shady areas a little taller. The increased leaf area will compensate for the lower light levels.

• Mowing frequency makes a big difference in the quality of a lawn.

The best lawns are mowed based on growth, not a set schedule. If you hire your lawn mowed, mowing on a set schedule, preferably weekly during the growing season, is typically the practical solution. But, if you mow your own lawn, a big step towards a better lawn is to start mowing based on growth.

The best time to mow is at the point where no more than 1/3 of the leaf area will be removed.  For example, if you are trying to maintain your lawn at 2”, the lawn should be mowed before it exceeds 3”.  Removing more than 1/3 of the height at one time results in cutting below the leaf and into the stems.  Removing all the leaf requires the turf to use nutrients stored in the roots to generate new leaves followed by putting energy into storing more nutrients. Scalping into the stems starts a growing cycle that is not optimal for having a great lawn.

• Mulch mowing vs bagging your clippings is one of the best things you can do for your lawn.

An added benefit of mowing often enough that no more than 1/3 of the leaf blade is removed at a time is you don’t need to bag your clippings. Leaf blades are mostly water and nitrogen. Every time you remove your clippings you are throwing away valuable moisture and nutrients.  

I am a firm believer that what separates the quality of my lawn from other good lawns is that I always mulch mow returning nutrient and moisture rich clippings to the soil. 

Mow often and don’t bag your clippings. Mulch mow and return nutrients to the soil. Your lawn will thank you.

When mulch mowing, a few clippings are ok. They will break down quickly and return nutrients and moisture to the soil.

But, if you are like me, you like a neat and clean lawn when you are finished mowing. So, use your blower to distribute any noticeable clippings.

Varying your mowing pattern will reduce soil compaction and give your lawn a professional appearance.

• Keep mower blades sharp.

Dull blades bruise leaf tips, reduce growth, and causes a dull-cast appearance over the turf due to frayed leaf blades.

• Vary the mowing pattern.

  Mowing the same direction 30-40 times per year will create unnecessary soil compaction. Lawns look better when two or three mowing patterns are rotated through.

 Aerating

We talk about aerating a lot.  Why?  The overwhelming common factor of our best lawns is annual aeration.

Aerating is the process of taking small cores out of the lawn with a mechanical core aerator. Aeration reduces compaction and improves the soil structure by improving air, nutrient, and water movement to the root zone. Cores should be left on the lawn and allowed to break down. Gradually the holes created by the aerator are filled in with loose soil from the cores creating pockets for root development. Aerating also reduces thatch.

Bermuda should be aerated any time after spring green up through early summer, April through mid-July.

The best time to aerate fescue is in the fall, September through October.

Aeration will take a lawn from good to great!

Dethatching

Thatch is the undecomposed roots and stems of the turf. Excessive thatch, more than ½,” impedes the flow of water, air, and nutrients into the soil. Lawns with excessive thatch are shallow rooted and therefore are less drought and heat tolerant.

Bermuda lawns are more prone to excessive thatch than fescue. The best time to remove excessive thatch is in the early spring, late February to early March, before the lawn greens up. The best tool to use is a power rake, also known as a dethatcher.

Important note – Lawns that are aerated at least every other year rarely have excessive thatch problems. If your lawn has a moderate amount of thatch, we recommend aeration as a preventative step to dethatching.

Turf Selection

Light is a basic requirement of turfgrass growth and is often the limiting factor in good turf development. All plants, including turf grass, have a minimum light requirement.

• Bermuda prefers 8 hours of direct sunlight for optimal growth.

• Zoysia will grow well in a little less light, but still needs 6 hours of direct sunlight.

• For any areas with less than 5 hours of direct sunlight, fescue is the best option.  

We all tend to underestimate the amount of shade our trees, shrubs, buildings, and fences cast on our lawns.

Lawn areas that receive only dappled sun are best planted in fescue.

Over the course of the growing season, take time to observe shade patterns in your landscape and make a plan for any areas with too little direct sunlight to support a thick lawn.

Zoysia is best established from sod and can be installed throughout the season.

Fescue does well established from seed. The best time to establish fescue from overseeding is in September or October. There is a second opportunity in March. But fall, is by far the best time because as a cool season grass, it will have more time to establish a strong root system for the summer heat. 

During April and May, establishing fescue from sod is best. Avoid sodding fescue during the summer heat.

Soil Test

When a lawn isn’t growing well, has poor color, looks sickly, and doesn’t respond as expected to fertilizer, a soil test should be done. 

There are 13 essential mineral elements in soil.  Their availability to be used by turfgrass is based on soil pH. Between pH of 6.0 and 7.0, all essential soil elements are available for optimal turfgrass growth.  A soil test will determine if lime is needed to raise the pH or if sulfur is needed to lower the pH.

Fill a quart sized plastic bag with soil from 10-12 random places in your lawn. Using a spade take soil from 2-6” below the surface. Remove roots from the soil. Take the soil sample to your local Oklahoma State University County Extension Office. They will test the soil and send you a report for a nominal fee. The Oklahoma County office is located at 2500 NE 63rd St., Oklahoma City, OK 73111.

Or, give us a call and we will gather a sample and take it to the lab for you.

Just like Lawn Care Applications, Maintenance activities by themselves will not fix

all your lawn problems.  But, without proper maintenance activities,

lawn care applications will not be as effective.

We look forward to continuing the conversation of the three keys to a great lawn next month when we discuss how the environment impacts your efforts to have a beautiful lawn.

If you subscribe to a Hall | Stewart Lawn Care Program, good maintenance practices are a key to getting the most out of our lawn care applications.

If you have any questions, please let us know. We enjoy visiting with you about your lawn.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

The Epic Summer Battle: Outdoor Fun vs The Mosquitoes. Coming Soon to Your Backyard!

We want your spring, summer and fall to be filled with outdoor enjoyment.

The key to more outdoor time is winning the battle against the annoying mosquitoes.    

Hall | Stewart believes in an integrated pest management (IPM) approach to mosquito control.  Success is the result of focusing on prevention and reduction.

What you can do to win the battle –

Mosquito control is everyone’s responsibility when it comes to removing and eliminating larval breeding sites.  All standing water is a desirable breeding ground for mosquitoes.  Mosquitoes spend three of their four life stages dependent on standing water.  This makes anywhere water accumulates from bird baths, flowerpots, toys, poor draining gutters, a perfect playground for the insect.   

The first step in mosquito control is to remove any standing water – pots, gutters, birdbaths, poor draining lawn areas, etc.

Mosquito eggs WILL NOT hatch without water.

The newly hatched larva lives in water and develop into pupae all before they emerge as an adult. Simply reducing standing water around your residence will have a significant impact on mosquito population. Even pet bowls can be a breeding ground for mosquitoes. 

From March through November, any object containing 5–7-day old water is a potential playground for the pest.  Drain and refill pet bowls and bird baths every 3-5 days at the minimum. 

Adult females are the only mosquitoes that bite. They typically attack in the evening, but occasionally are out during the day.  Most afternoons you will find them resting in shrubs, trees and other shady areas.  

After a female mosquito has obtained blood meal from a person or animal, they lay their eggs in water or a moist area where their eggs will receive sufficient moisture to hatch.     

The entire life cycle of the mosquito takes only 4-5 weeks. 

Adult females are the only mosquitoes that bite. They typically attack in the evening, but occasionally are out during the day. Most afternoons you will find them resting in shrubs, trees and other shady areas. After they obtain blood meal from a person or animal they lay their eggs in water or a place where it will get wet. They prefer dark colored containers and shaded areas for egg laying.

What Hall | Stewart can do to help you win the battle –

Barrier treatments are the most effective and proven method for managing pests.  A barrier can be made by treating all vegetation, shrubs and trees, from the ground up to a height of 10 feet.

Insecticides must be applied to both the top and bottom of plant leaves which is difficult to achieve with a traditional pump-up, handheld spray can.

Power backpack misters are the ideal equipment for barrier treatments as they force droplets into the vegetation and underneath leaves.  Other common resting sites, such as under decks, gutters, and other moist shady areas are included in the treatment areas. 

Hall | Stewart’s Mosquito Control Program uses two control methods:

• An insecticide is used to provide an initial a quick kill and residual control of adult mosquitoes.

• A growth regulator is used to adversely affect the reproductive cycle of the mosquitoes by preventing larval development resulting in fewer adult mosquitoes.  

Due to the short life cycle of mosquitoes, regularly scheduled monthly barrier treatments will provide a significant reduction in the number of insects.

The battle is a team effort.  You can win by reducing the breeding grounds for mosquitoes and by subscribing to the Hall | Stewart Mosquito Control Program.

We want you to have peace of mind when it comes to outdoor enjoyment this summer.   

If you have not already subscribed to our mosquito control program, call or respond to this email. 

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

Spring Dead Spot – Oklahoma’s #1 Turf Disease

Oklahoma is in the transition zone. 

What is the transition zone? 

It is the zone between where warm season turf grows best and the zone where cool season turf grows best.

Warm Season Turfs:  Bermuda Grass and Zoysia Grass.

Cool Season Turfs:  Fescue Grass, Rye Grass, Blue Grass   

The transition zone is an overlap area where warm season grasses do well in the heat of the summer while cool season grasses do well in the spring and the fall, and some cool season grasses, such as tall fescue, continue to do well through most summers.

The transition zone is the area where you can’t go wrong growing either warm season grasses or cool season grasses.

Developing and maintaining a great warm season turf can be a challenge in the transition zone where winter temperatures often get colder than warm season grasses prefer and where it is common for an April freeze to stunt warm season turf green-up.   

Consistently warming soil temperatures are critical for bermuda to exit dormancy and become active.

This year, the spring has been kind to Bermuda and zoysia lawns by not delivering us a freeze after the first of April. Green-up has been gradual and consistent.

Challenging areas remain. Lawns with partial shade, where soil temperatures lag, are trying to catch up.  Thin turf areas, as well as lawns with weak root systems, are also behind in green up.

Our goal each week is to discuss the things we encounter while visiting lawns and landscapes.  This time of year, as the warm season lawns are greening up, we get a lot of calls about dead spots in Bermuda lawns.

“What are all the circular dead spots in bermuda lawns?”

Is it grubs?

Is it damage caused by a weed killer? 

These are common assumptions, but they are neither.

It is a disease…Spring Dead Spot.

Spring Dead Spot is widespread in Oklahoma and holds the title as the number one disease of Bermuda lawns in the region.  You can count on there always being some Spring Dead Spot, but some springs the disease is worse than others.  When the fall, winter, and spring conditions are right for Spring Dead Spot, any Bermuda lawn in our region has the potential to be a host for the disease.

Let’s look at the history, symptoms, disease cycle, causes, and possible solutions for preventing and controlling this mysterious Bermuda grass disease.

Spring Dead Spot patches will begin to develop grow of healthy grass in the patch after a couple of years.

History

Spring Dead Spot has been a problem for a long time.  The first case was discovered in Oklahoma in 1936 by a golf course superintendent following a harsh Oklahoma winter. 

By the 1950s, the unknown disease had become so prevalent in our state that Oklahoma State University plant pathologists began simply referring to the disease as Spring Dead Spot.  

In the 1960s, the disease became so widespread in suburban Atlanta lawns, particularly hybrid Bermuda, that the University of Georgia launched a research program.  After three years of research, the university still didn’t know the cause and never could get the disease to reproduce in test plots.    

In more recent years, Oklahoma State University has focused research on the disease.  What they have found is the disease is tough to eradicate, tough to manage, and unpredictable. 

Symptoms

Spring Dead Spot makes an appearance in the spring with ugly, rounded, bleached white dead spots in Bermuda lawns.   The spots range in size from a few inches to a few feet in diameter.  If you dig up the roots in the area, they will appear black and rotting. 

Damaged patches tend to recur in the same spots year after year.  After a couple of years, the center of the spots will begin to develop a patch of healthy turf.

Spring Dead Spot typically isn’t active in newer lawns.  It is common for it to first make an appearance 3 or 4 years into a new lawn.  Just as strangely, the disease often becomes less active after a few years.  All this just adds to the mystery of the disease.  

This coincides with my experience: the disease is more common in newer neighborhoods and rarely found in older established areas of the city.

Because the pathogen causes rotting of the roots, rhizomes and stolons, the susceptibility to winter injury increases in the affected areas.  The colder the winter or the harsher the April freeze, the more spring dead spot damage we see.

A better example of healthy turf grass growing in the Spring Dead Spot patch after a couple of years.

Disease Cycle

In Oklahoma, the disease becomes active starting in September as soil temperatures begin to cool and reach 70 degrees and remains active through the winter if soil temperatures stay above 50 degrees. 

Recovery starts in the late spring and continues through the summer as healthy turf around the Spring Dead Spot area grows into the damaged area. 

Because the damaged spot often doesn’t have time to completely heal and develop strong roots, the same spots reappear each spring.  Research shows that the spots can reappear in the spring because of freeze damage, even if the disease isn’t active that year.

Causes

The most serious Spring Dead Spot outbreaks occur in highly managed Bermuda, often hybrid types.  It is a common problem in turf that receives heavy nitrogen fertilizer applications, mowed at low settings, and receives frequent foot traffic. 

Turf grass that receives late-season applications of nitrogen to extend green color are more prone to the development of Spring Dead Spot.

More cold tolerant varieties of Bermuda grasses have less problems with the disease than hybrid types that are less cold hardy. 

Cultural Practices for Spring Dead Spot Management

No single management practice will provide complete control of Spring Dead Spot.  The best prevention and control of Spring Dead Spot comes from practices that promote a dense turf and a healthy root system.  Because the disease is more prevalent in tight compacted soils, which often have poor root systems, annual aeration is important as it will promote a healthy root system and lessen the probability of the disease.

Although the impact of soil pH is unclear on the development of Spring Dead Spot, an annual soil test to ensure the correct pH is maintained will encourage plant vigor and reduce turf stress.   

Recovery improves with a fertilizer routine that ensures the lawn will receive 3 to 5 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet during the growing season with the first application being made in April to May as soil temperatures consistently rise. 

Applications of more than .5 pounds of nitrogen after September 15 must be avoided.  Some research shows that heavier applications of potassium in the fall promotes winter hardiness.  Others believe, soils in our region already contain sufficient potassium, if the soil pH is near neutral. 

The desire to have a green and actively growing bermuda lawn as long into the fall as possible may be the most common practice that leads to the development of Spring Dead Spot.

If you have small areas of the disease in your lawn, the best solution is to remove the soil in the damaged area to a depth of 12” and replace it with new soil.   

Raising the mower height going into September will increase the leaf surface resulting in higher levels of carbohydrate reserves in the roots.  The result will be more insulation for winter temperatures.

Spring Dead Spot after a few seasons of recovery.

Chemical Management

A fungicide applied in the fall as soon as soil temperatures fall to 70 degrees followed by a second application in 30 days may result in control of the disease.   It is important to commit to two applications as research shows a single application is generally not effective.  Spring applications of fungicides are not as effective as the disease is not active in the spring. 

Keep in mind fungicide results can be inconsistent from year to year.  Control through fungicides requires a 2-to-4-year commitment for consistent results. 

Prevention and control of Spring Dead Spot can be tricky.  

The disease can be very frustrating. 

Everyone wants their turf to look the best, but if you have a Bermuda lawn, there is always the chance Spring Dead Spot will make an appearance. 

If you are experiencing Spring Dead Spot keep in mind the best recovery occurs over time and with warmer temperatures.  Don’t give up! 

Commit - To best maintenance practices, including aeration, to develop a thick turf with a healthy root system. 

Most Critical - Avoid the temptation to promote late season growth.

Remove & Replace Soil – The best solution is to remove 12” of soil in the affected areas and replace it with new soil. 

Schedule - A fall fungicide treatment plan.

If you have more questions about Spring Dead Spot, or any other lawn care issue, please give us a call.

Lorne Hall

Hall | Stewart Lawn + Landscape

(405)367-3873

The best way to repair small areas of Spring Dead Spot is to remove the damaged soil to the depth of 12” and replace with fresh soil.